How about this for $500?

[Wolverine]

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.as...D=469&page=2&productID=2495&zz=48176&x=11&y=5

 

[l_bilyk]

No! That's not a well built compressor

 

[kartracer55]

Its not a well built compressor but its one hell of a deal. Keep in mind, These low end IR compressors are pretty loud... better than an oilless, but still not quite a big industrial unit

ID say go with this one... although its $275 more. It is however, a better, quieter compressor that puts out a few more cfm.

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/172983.htm

Jim

 

[bdaz442]

thats a joke. u making models?

 

[Wolverine]

Yes, I love the Eaton models. I'm just trying to come in at a little lower price. I know...................................... "you get what you pay for."



What do you think of this one????



http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdiaddgdehglkecgelceffdfgidgmm.0&MID=9876http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdiaddgdehglkecgelceffdfgidgmm.0&MID=9876

 

[kartracer55]

You cant link to the HD site, idk why... its like msc. Anyway, im gunna guess your looking at a campbell hausfeld, as they make the compressors for "husky". You can get CH compressors for pretty cheap from HF, and they are made in USA. Not a bad compressor by any means, asuming its one of thier belt driven oiled models

Jim

 

[Wolverine]

Damn Home Depot link!


$429

60 Gallon
Cast Iron Pump
10.3 SCFM @ 90
11.7 SCFM @ 40


Here:

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah its made by CH I believe. Not a bad compressor, but its a fast turning pump, so it might be kinda noisy

Jim

 

[l_bilyk]

Damn Home Depot link!


$429

60 Gallon
Cast Iron Pump
10.3 SCFM @ 90
11.7 SCFM @ 40


Here:

It's a better buy than the IR because it's cheaper and better built. You will probably want to upgrade before you wear this one out.

It's not that quiet, but you can bring it up a few dB by using the air filter from the "ironforce" version of this compressor. Those cost like 200 more and the only difference is the filter lol.

I heard people call these compressors "cheater" compressors since the pump doesn't put out much CFM but the tank is so big that you can still use grinders and sanders without TOO much frustration. On the downside, they are a little too small for sandblasting and painting larger objects with a HVLP gun. Impact wrenches, ratchets, shears, nailguns, etc, run just fine on these.

PS: One thing you should keep in mind is that these need 220, and you still have to buy a regulator, filter, ball valve, some fittings, etc.

 

[Elroy]

and you still have to buy a regulator, filter...........

Now there is a good question.

What regulator brand would you guys recommend? Milton, Coil Hose?

And what about a filter?

I need some guidance on this subject. What do you guys recommend? The compressor I'm looking at needs one.

Also what is a "motor starter" ?

 

[Elroy]

I'm also keep hearing about ASME code tanks

What is ASME?

Coated tanks I guess are for rust control. Do I need this and who sells these ? I'm new at air compressors and want one. I need your guys help.

 

[kartracer55]

Alot of milton stuff is made in USA, so you cant really go wrong. "my" filters and regulators are all speedaire from grainger, made in mexico(didnt know it until I recieved them) but they are still really nice. If your using copper lines, you only need 1 filter. With black pipe or galvanized, you need one right before a regulator, directly before each hose. Copper is the material of choie because its so easy to work with. Install the filter as far downline as possible, but before your first drop. Also, use a filter with the same size line your running.

As for filter brands, these Speedaire ones are pretty nice, no problems so far. Milton stuff is made mostly in USA, so you cant really go wrong. Norgren makes some really good stuff, but alot of problems have been reported with thier "automatic filter drains"... basically, its this spring loadedtype thing that remains open until there is X psi in the system, and it is forced closed, but dirt gets in the seal and prevents it from closing all the way and so it leaks air. Get a manual filter drain.

Also, If you do get a polycarbonate filter bowl, make sure it has a good metal gaurd around it. The speedaire stuff we have cost a bit more, but its made of cast aluminum. The compressor oils eat away polycarbonate, and they will eventually "rupture" and its pretty violent when it happens (I know from experience)

A motor starter is a magnetic motor starter. I wasnt too sure what it does, so I did a bit of searching and found out...

"The primary purpose of a magnetic motor starter is to provide thermal overload protection"

http://www.usace.army.mil/usace-docs/armytm/tm5-683/c-5.pdf#search='magnetic%20motor%20starter'

The guy to ask its "tomwelds" as he is an electrician.

Jim

 

[Elroy]

Hay thats great. Thanks

The stater deal: I keep hearing about IEEE then one of the old timers at work told me I wanted a nema stater.

Whats the deal here?

Some of the compressor I have seen said a starter is not required. I don't get it.

 

[kartracer55]

I'm also keep hearing about ASME code tanks

What is ASME?

Coated tanks I guess are for rust control. Do I need this and who sells these ? I'm new at air compressors and want one. I need your guys help.

ASME tanks mean they are up to ASME spec... I believe it is 200 PSI @ 400 degrees. Its a saftey thing, and its a + when buying. In california, you cannot use a compressor in a commercial or industrial buisness unless it has an ASME code tank. Im sure its like this in other states too.

Jim

 

[kartracer55]

Tech4 says...

"Ok simple - it(a magetic starter) is basically a relay or solenoid contacter that allows a low voltage to energize the coil of a relay or contacter that will start a high current motor. A practical example would be a low voltage thermostat turning on a 24 volt relay to energize a 240 volt high current Air Conditioner compresser. "

Jim

 

[krooser]

Saw one last week for $100.00 ...used....not a bad price for an "entry level" unit...

 

[Elroy]

Thanks for the response.

So what kind of starter do I want IEEE or nema? And why do some compressors not need them?

 

[kartracer55]

Thanks for the response.

So what kind of starter do I want IEEE or nema? And why do some compressors not need them?

That I dont know... Ill ask for ya. My understanding of Electrical in general is pretty limited.

I DO know that NEMA stands for National Electrical Manufacturers Association, so I think it is kind of like ASME (american society of mechanical Engineers) where they do research and set standards codes,ratings, and all that other good stuff.

www.nema.org

If you really want to know exactly what a mag. starter is (and maybe a little more) make a post in the "professionals" section asking for "tomwelds" or any ther electrician.

Jim

 

[Wolverine]

Great info! Much appreciated!

 

[number3]

I have had my 220v CH compressor for a little over 5 years now and it works great (except I have to tie the oil dip stick down.)

I bought it Home Depot for just over 300 dollars.

 

[Roadster]

I'm also keep hearing about ASME code tanks

What is ASME?

ASME = American Society of Mechanical Engineers

ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code, Section VIII: Pressure Vessels, Division 1, provides minimum requirements for the design, manufacture, testing, and inspection of pressure vessels...

http://www.asme.org/bpvc/bpvc8d1.shtml

ASME Division 1 pressure vessels will have the following 'U' code symbol stamped on the tank's specification plate...

Like this...