Changing out the manifolds and risers on my 4.3l volvo penta was a task I keep putting off. I finally got around to pulling the manifolds off and bought a set of mayhew gaskets scrapers for the task of cleaning up the mating surfaces on the heads. The port side came out really well as I had just enough room to work with. The starboard side was a different story. I had to work blind and couldn't hardly get a good angle to scrap properly. Long story short, I scored the sealing surfaces on the 1, 3, and 5 exhaust ports on the head. 1 and 3 cleaned up well with a file wrapped in 1000 grit wet sand paper. Number 5 is what I'm questioning. I gouged deep on that port inadvertently. I hit it with the 1000 grit sandpaper and got a lot of the marks out. I'm afraid to go any further as I don't want to remove too much and cause an uneven mating surface. I put a straight edge in it and its still flat. The gaskets from the manifold company are to volvo spec and are the coated steel type. They recommend dry install, but the company that sold me the parts also does installs and said to use a very thin coating of ultra copper rtv. Of course permitex told me the same thing. Man, I hate when I do something stupid and screw something up. Definately a learning experience I guess. What do you guys think? Advice?
How bad did I @%#$ this up?
- Thread starter monster1
- Start date
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Knock down the high spots. Then...Use the Permatex Ultra Copper. Put it on the Gasket about .010 thick. Snug the Manifold down and leave it sit for 24 hours or whatever the suggested cure time is. Then Torque to Spec. Heat Cycle the Motor a few times and Torque to spec again. I have had good luck doing this on scored aluminum heads.
SlappyWhite
Well-known member
IMO, if they are still flat/true I would not worry about the scratches...
matt_i
Well-known member
Personally I wouldn't worry about that, its scored but I don't see any lines that go completely across from port to exterior that would be an easy leak path.
Bretny
Well-known member
Ultra copper and slap it on. Thats not much of a scratch if your useing 1000g paper to remove the high spots. These surfaces dont need to be mirror finish. 36g flap disc would be totaly fine if your easy with it.
I do think your sandpaper and block of wood is best.
I do think your sandpaper and block of wood is best.
laser3kw
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I should note that i did start out with a sanding block. The spongy type with automotive sandpaper adhered to. It was all I could find. But I used it extremely light to avoid depressing it and causing round off. I switched to the file with 1000 grit to work it off more slowly to avoid more user screw ups. After a while, it did start polishing out. Lol. I had thought about buying some extreme heat jb to fill in the voids but I think I'll continue a little more knocking down the high spots and then use a very thin coat of ultra copper. I just beat myself up over things like this.
bradpac
Well-known member
Slapped gaskets on dry over worse with no issues. You will be fine with any solution you choose.
BillK
Well-known member
If you were to see some of the marine heads I get in the shop you would not even be asking this question 
Make sure to use the good gaskets and it will be good to go.
Make sure to use the good gaskets and it will be good to go.gnpenning
Well-known member
I would be more concerned with a valve being open while you were sanding and getting grit in the combustion chamber. Be sure and vacuum out ports.
As mentioned easy fix for the scratches.
As mentioned easy fix for the scratches.
Bopbop
Well-known member
I second what Barrymaxx said. Those are below the port and will not be an issue. Just let the ultra copper cure as said above.
I made sure that I put rags into each port. To make sure nothing falls in when I remove them, I'm going to use my shop vac to create vacuum while I remove the rags. Any debris trying to fall into the ports will get vacuumed up.