how can I get this pump body off

[NE Guy]

You could try one of those weird painter's putty knives. You know the kind that has the semicircular cutout on the side for cleaning paint rollers?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyde-5-in-1...fe-Scraper-Roller-Cleaner-02970-/281271222473

They usually have a thicker blade that is sharpened on one edge. Makes a great wedge for just this sort of situation. Gentle tapping with a hammer should do it.

I never knew what that circular cut out was for... ...the things you learn here.

Thanks.

 

[sgull]

A coupling nut is a regular nut, but about 2" long, threaded all the way. Install it on the stud, and add a bolt long enough (double nutted) to reach the flange on the LHS. Back off the coupling nut and it will push out the stud on the pump body, breaking that gasketted joint.

Okay, I called the hardware store. They say they have a coupling nut. So I'm gonna take one of the studs in and make sure I get a coupling nut to match the threads on the stud. Then I'm gonna install it on the stud. But then I'm not clear what I'm supposed to do next; "add a bolt long enough..." By add, do you mean thread a bolt in the other end of the coupling nut? And, on that bolt, I thread two nuts ("double nutted") on it? How can I thread nuts onto the bolt if the bolt is already threaded into the coupling nut? And, in regard to having this bolt be long enough to "reach the flange on the LHS", what does LHS mean? Left-hand side? If so, left hand side of what?

 

[sgull]

Not exactly the same, but this bolt, nut and sleeve, (bottom left in the photo), should give you an idea of the concept suggested. The sleeve would thread onto the stud, the bolt goes in the other end of the sleeve, (the bolt is a slip fit in the sleeve), and the nut is turned to force the bolt out from the sleeve, hence pressing against the housing and pushing the stud forwards.

You lost me at "the bolt is a slip fit in the sleeve". Do I want a bolt to "slip fit" into my coupling nut I'm planning on getting? I think probably not, but have to ask. Plus, in your picture, that flat piece throws me off too. How would that come into play, or does it, at all?

 

[sgull]

If it helps at all, in regard to whether or not the method suggested by lilred might work, here's a picture of the stud (with nut):

 

[OccupantRJ]

Screw coupling nut onto stud. Screw bolt into coupling nut. Add metal spacer between bolt head and other part of pump. (flange). Unscrew bolt from coupling nut, causing coupling nut to force stud to push pump housing loose. Leave a gap between coupling nut and pump body for movement during jacking. Use a longer stud if you need to.

 

[lilredex]

Screw the coupling nut onto the stud all the way. Select the longest bolt that will fit and screw it in the other end of that coupling nut. Add a nut to that longest bolt before you screw it in. Screw in that bolt a few threads and lock that extra nut firmly against the coupling nut. You can now back off the coupling nut (from the stud) and when that longest bolt hits the flange on the left hand side, it will begin to jack the stud and pump body out. Best to put one on either side so everything moves out evenly.

Edit...beat me to it. Yes it is a good idea to add the spacer, that way you can use more of the bolt threads.

 

[sgull]

Screw coupling nut onto stud. Screw bolt into coupling nut. Add metal spacer between bolt head and other part of pump. (flange). Unscrew bolt from coupling nut, causing coupling nut to force stud to push pump housing loose. Leave a gap between coupling nut and pump body for movement during jacking. Use a longer stud if you need to.

Metal spacer? If I had (or could get) such a metal spacer, I suppose I would want it to "slip fit"? Doubt I'll have too much luck obtaining such a "spacer". And if turns out I need I longer stud (which I have no idea if I will because just I can't picture all this in my head yet), I don't have a longer stud to use, and would probably have difficulty coming up with one.

 

[jpinca]

is the impeller free spinning now? If so, I'd just tap a putty knife or knives in while checking the impeller for binding. Hopefully thus will keep from damaging the impeller/bearing in case the the impeller does, in fact, have to be removed first.

 

[Outlawmws]

OK let me take a cut at what I think they are saying"

In the pic below, thread the coupler with a bolt completely threaded into it onto the "top" stud where the is the opposing housing flange.

DON"T thread the coupler completely on the stud; leave an eighth of an inch or so.

UN-thread the bolt, holding the couple from turning with a second wrench. as it contacts the opposing flange, it will apply pressure on the outer housing via the stud.

This should break the seal of that gasket mess.

using two, one on each side, keeps it going evenly.

It is basically a simple screw jack.

 

[lilredex]

That's it, but do tighten the coupling nut on the stud all the way and add the lock nut...that way everything is locked together and you only need one wrench on the coupling nut. A spacer will take up any extra free space.

 

[Outlawmws]

That's it, but do tighten the coupling nut on the stud all the way and add the lock nut...that way everything is locked together and you only need one wrench on the coupling nut. A spacer will take up any extra free space.

If you tighten the coupler all the way, all you will do is risk breaking the middle housing. You have to transfer the force to the stud and outer housing and leave room for the couple to travel on the inside as they move outwards.

 

[lilredex]

We are not talking about wedging a spacer into any free space, just select something that will take up most of that space. With it all locked together and backing off the coupling nut, it will push the stud out. The coupling nut will already be backed away from the flange before it starts pushing.....just trying to use the maximum available length of the stud threads.

 

[dadsEH]

Have you googled...w s darley, the pump manufacturer? They have a free 1800 number for help.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Yes, just use a metal block as a spacer between the bolt and the motor side to take up excess gap before jacking.

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

All valid ideas if the tools/materials are on hand...

I would start by removing all the studs, spray penatrating oil in the stud holes and around the outer flange. If time permits, let it sit, if not, oh well. There looks to be a decent shoulder on the flange, using a brass drift or wooden handle from a broken hammer pound on the edge of the flange, alternating from one side to the other. If you see any movement/progress stop, and check the the impeller still turns freely, if it does then continue, if not then you need to find a way to remove the cotter pin and nut from the impeller.

Careful application of heat around the flange may loosen the old sealant/gasket.

If you mar the mating surface of the castings no panic, just dress it with a file and abrasive/emery cloth and use a good sealant.

 

[lilredex]

Like this...

 

[sgull]

Here's a few photos, so far:

I tried unscrewing the coupling nut but it unscrewed from the stud and so that didn't work^

Below is bolt with nut threaded on. But that entire length won't fit in like that, as can be seen:

 

[OccupantRJ]

First picture: screw bolt into coupling nut, insert metal scrap behind bolt head, then unscrew bolt.

 

[SantaAna12]

You might distribute the load across the housing....you might crack it.

As RJ points out.

 

[metaldad]

i think it is time to get a guy who does pumps for a living to fix it.

 

[sgull]

First picture: screw bolt into coupling nut, insert metal scrap behind bolt head, then unscrew bolt.

I'll try that, but it'l have to be tomorrow. thanks.

 

[SantaAna12]

Was that a salt water pump?

 

[sgull]

You might distribute the load across the housing....you might crack it. As RJ points out.

As RJ points out, where (which post)?
I might distribute the load across the housing if I do what?
Or is that a suggestion; that I should distribute the load across the housing? And if so, how?

 

[sgull]

Was that a salt water pump?

No, not necessarily. Why, because you think you saw salt crystals?

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

You had it set up right in the first of those 2 pictures. Put a wrench on the coupling nut to keep it from turning, then unscrew the bolt from the coupling nut until the head of the bolt is forced against the housing on the left side of the picture. Repeat the process on the other side of the housing with another nut/bolt to keep the load balanced. Then continue unsrewing the bolts from the nuts untill you have placed a fair amount of force on the studs. Check the impeller for spin, if it spins then give the flange at the joint a good smack with your wood and hammer, should break free. If not then put mor force on your bolt/nuts.

 

[SantaAna12]

I just noticed your 20.

 

[sgull]

You had it set up right in the first of those 2 pictures. Put a wrench on the coupling nut to keep it from turning, then unscrew the bolt from the coupling nut until the head of the bolt is forced against the housing on the left side of the picture. Repeat the process on the other side of the housing with another nut/bolt to keep the load balanced. Then continue unsrewing the bolts from the nuts untill you have placed a fair amount of force on the studs. Check the impeller for spin, if it spins then give the flange at the joint a good smack with your wood and hammer, should break free. If not then put mor force on your bolt/nuts.

Okay, I get what you've described as quoted above. Only thing I don't quite get is why exactly to check the impeller for spin. What if I do check (after placing the fair amount of force on the studs with the coupling nut setup on both sides), and find that it won't spin?

 

[sgull]

Thanks for the help/advice, everyone.

 

[joel63]

Thanks for the help/advice, everyone.

Good job!

Bet you feel better now.

 

[sgull]

At first glance, I thought this thread was "how can I get this bump off my body"

Now, how can I get this bump off my body?