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How did this thing run for the last 4 years?

LS6 Tommy

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Went to my BIL/SIL's house yesterday to look at their A/C. BIL tells me the symptoms are intermittant. On some really hot days, when he gets home there is very little airflow and the house is warm. If he shuts it down for a while it seems to recover.

Sounds like a freezing coil to me. I go over, sight glass is clear. Suction line is sweating, condensate coming out of the drain. Gauges read OK. Didn't want to check superheat until I check the rest of basics.

Filters are new. Up into the attic to look at the A/H. Fan speeds are set correctly, evaporator is clean.
The system has one condensing unit, but it's a two zone damper setup. The damper controller LEDs indicate the dampers in both zones should be open, the compressor should be running.

Dampers are closed. I start trying to figure things out with my meter. After I finally think I have things figured out, my BIL tells me he has the installation manual. I grab the manual and start reading. I was right. The damper actuators were wired backwards and the two T-stats were controlling the wrong zones. First floor stat was controlling second floor zone and vice versa. BIL says it can't be because it worked "fine" for years. SIL says it was never really great from the word go. I seem to recall they had other problems right after the installation.

I think it was just getting by with it miswired, but since it was new construction, they didn't have anything to compare it to so they thought it was OK. I figure it this way- the way it was wired, the dampers were going open when not calling instead of closing, and the stats were controlling the wrong dampers. Basically, with the stat wires on the wrong damper actuators and the actuators stroking backwards, when the stat for the first floor called, it ran the condenser and closed the damper for the second floor, but the first floor damper was open because the second floor stat was not calling. This allowed cooling and airflow to the first floor during a call. Same thing happened in reverse for the second floor when it called. The problem was when both stats called at the same time, both dampers would close, the condensing unit would run and eventually the supply duct temp sensor shut down the condensing unit.

Anyway, should be good now.


That will be $2400.00, please. :lol_hitti

I wouldn't charge them. They are family...

Tommy
 
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acmikee

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I've seen worse. on a service call on a new bldg the duct heater was installed backwards and the guy who did startup and the air balancer didn't catch it. the boss was pissed
 

Moosefire

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Wait... does a 2 zone cooling require a special unit? I have a bungalow and barely get ac upstairs, its regularly 80f up there while 71 on the main floor. Are you telling me I can get a thermostat just for upstairs temp control??

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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LS6 Tommy

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Wait... does a 2 zone cooling require a special unit? I have a bungalow and barely get ac upstairs, its regularly 80f up there while 71 on the main floor. Are you telling me I can get a thermostat just for upstairs temp control??

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

It's not a matter of just replacing the t-stat. The system has to more or less be designed as a two zone system from the start. I wouldn't even recommend doing a two zone retrofit on the existing ductwork.

Tommy
 

nutjob

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The problem was when both stats called at the same time, both dampers would close, the condensing unit would run and eventually the supply duct temp sensor shut down the condensing unit.

Should this system have a zone controller? My house has one system and 2 thermostats and a zone controller. The controller controls which dampers are closed/open and if both call for A/C, one has to wait until the other is done.

Kevin
 
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LS6 Tommy

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Should this system have a zone controller? My house has one system and 2 thermostats and a zone controller. The controller controls which dampers are closed/open and if both call for A/C, one has to wait until the other is done.

Kevin

It has an EWC Ultra-Zone zone controller, but it allows both zones to operate simultaneously. There was nothing in the manual about configuring it to only run one zone at a time. I had hoped it could be set up that way.

Tommy
 
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fitter30

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Just the one stat at a higher set point say 85* to run one zone. Make sure air flow and safeties are working.
 
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yeldogt

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Typically with "open or closed" dampers you have them set up so the opposing zones close on thermostat demand. This way you can set the unit up for continuous fan.

There are various levels of sophistication above simple "on" "off "dampers -- until you get to full modulation of the compressor and matched airflow using VS blower and multi step dampers.

Many of the basic controls can handle different combinations. In my old house I had three zones and 4 dampers ... if the control was not set up for "three" zones .. it could be waiting for a non zone to call and close all the dampers. Sounds to me as if a switch was moved.

heat only can have closed -- as you may not have continuous fan and the furnace is heating up as the vent opens. Not AC ... you want all open with "no call"

Zoning is really not that complex .... the real problem is the installers. Most guys oversize -- so right off the bat you are trying to move too much air. Often the main ducts are too small.

The new Variable Speed systems can actually make bad duct work ...work. Often with trunk modifications the supplies to the rooms/areas are correct .. since the new systems are sending only what is needed to a given area zoning can push air through to far areas that previously did not get enough flow with single speed equipment.
 

yeldogt

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It has an EWC Ultra-Zone zone controller, but it allows both zones to operate simultaneously. There was nothing in the manual about configuring it to only run one zone at a time. I had hoped it could be set up that way.

Tommy


With a single speed system zoning needs to be balanced -- but you really don't want to lock out any so only one zone. And ...how would the system know ? It's dumb.

That setup would have the house always waiting for a zone to be satisfied. They don't have an override zone -- like a DHW on a boiler.

Zoning is great because it's very rare that all the rooms in a given house need to be the same temp all day long. And with AC sun gain can be managed. Why try and maintain temp on an unused second floor during the day when not is use -- allow the are to float up in temp and cool down later when no load and in use. This will also be when other parts of the house start to have lower use.

This even works in smaller houses -- I had a bungalow with one large bedroom bathroom on the second floor that would never cool enough. I zoned the house by taking and making the second floor a zone ... but I also ran ducts off that zone to the other two bedrooms and bath on the first floor. The basement was unfinished. So ..they had double ducts. When the second floor called for heat or cooling it fed the lower bedrooms and bath. I had three extra dampers that closed off the first floor trunk to those rooms. It worked great ...

Often you see zoning done with a bypass .... I have never had to use. new VS equipment should never have
 
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LS6 Tommy

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His isn't VS, just a standard single speed condensing unit and a two speed heat/cool furnace with an add-on evaporator box. All the diffusers are 8"x8" square and I don't really thing there's enough of them. There are two 24"x16" return grates on a common return duct. The 2nd floor return is the primary and is in one of the bedrooms. The first floor is in the living room and they used the sheetrock and studs as the duct. It's not even 6" deep. IIRC that isn't even allowed anymore. I'm pretty sure the return is undersized. The Delta T is about 26°F. I didn't bother to do a superheat check. I don't have any 410A and I'm not going to buy a 30# if he's a little low, so there's nothing else I can do with this system anyway.

Tommy
 

fitter30

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If you were short of gas your delta t would be less not more. At 26* surprised its not frosting up. Check blower and coil for dirt or blower speed.
 

bonneyman

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That will be $2400.00, please. :lol_hitti

I wouldn't charge them. They are family...

Tommy

Dang, I hate doing family work. You work twice as hard for free and then if it burps they're on the phone at one in the morning! :lol_hitti

Glad you were able to track it down. Those intermittent problems can be so frustrating.
 
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LS6 Tommy

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If you were short of gas your delta t would be less not more. At 26* surprised its not frosting up. Check blower and coil for dirt or blower speed.

I really typed that poorly. I kind of merged a bunch of thoughts. I think the high delta may be from a slightly oversized condenser. I didn't have any paperwork for the evaporator section and couldn't find any info on it, so I have no idea what it's sized for. When I was talking about being low, I was thinking of subcooling, but I never mentioned that. IFM and evaporator condition was the first thing I checked. :thumbup:

Tommy
 
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