How do I anchor a 6x6 post to a brick wall

[ive]

Hi all.

Planning on building a gate for the side of the house and I’d like to ask everyone what is the best way of anchoring a 6x6 to the brick wall of the garage?

Also, with it anchored should I also dig down 4’ and pour concrete with for the post as well.

Thank you very much. I’ve attached a picture of the wall where the 6x6 will be anchored.

 

[LB-1911]

I wouldn't anchor it to the wall I would consider this as an option -
top row far right

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[Half-fast eddie]

I would not fasten to the brick either. Set the post in the ground as if it was in the middle of the yard with nothing around to support it. Then use a short piece of fence to close the gap.

 

[readhead]

Is this post on the hinge side or the latch side? The hinge side will take weight two ways. Is this brick veneer on a framed wall or two withe brick? Either way if it is the hinge side I would anchor to the wall with no support below in case the flatwork decides to move. If it is solid brick then epoxy would work well. If it is veneer on framing I would install backing in the framing and thru bolt the post. If there is drywall this will be an excellent opportunity to practice your patching skills. If it is a latch post then some epoxy in the brick will be fine.

 

[Renegade1LI]

If you have to anchor it to the wall do as readhead suggested anchor to the framing, reinforcing as needed if it falls between studs. I would install a sleeve through the masonry so there would be no movement against the bricks & then seal the sleeve to your rod with silicone. I would be concerned with the post moving it may dislodge the brickwork, especially if it's just face brick. If you're not going tight to the bricks with the post than use a solid block between post & brick.

 

[The Cobbler]

for gates I like to use a header across both the hinge & latch side posts . it ties them together so there's virtually no deflection and the opening stays uniform . I would not attach to the brick

 

[CraigStu]

Lets wait until we find out if it is the hinge or latch side. Way, way different loads would need different attachment methods.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Lets wait until we find out if it is the hinge or latch side. Way, way different loads would need different attachment methods.

Sometimes the latch side is worse when the gate slams.

 

[ive]

Hi everyone.

To compound matters I’m trying to build a double gate.

The part towards the brick wall will be the main entry with the other half to open in case it’s needed.

The brick wall has no framing. It’s brick on the outside and cinderblock on the inside.

If I don’t attach the post to the house, what do I use to fasten a few boards to inbetween the post amd the brick wall?

Thanks so much your patience everyone. Much appreciated

 

[The Cobbler]

how wide gate panels are you thinking? , how tall?
can you just hang the gate off a post at the garage wall? maybe double posts side by side anchored to each other?
I suppose a few lengths of threaded rod or long bolts thru the brick & block would be a suitable post anchor to the wall

 

[rayra]

6x6 saddle bracket embedded in a beefy concrete footer and don't attach it to the house at all.

 

[rayra]

Hi everyone.

To compound matters I’m trying to build a double gate.

The part towards the brick wall will be the main entry with the other half to open in case it’s needed.

The brick wall has no framing. It’s brick on the outside and cinderblock on the inside.

If I don’t attach the post to the house, what do I use to fasten a few boards to inbetween the post amd the brick wall?

Thanks so much your patience everyone. Much appreciated

6x6 post has plenty of meat to do some joinery and have the fence plank stringers project from the post itself. Not attached to anything but the post.

 

[rayra]

Put a steel post in a plastic pocket in between the man door and the gate proper. When you need full access, open both panels and pull the steel post out.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Hi everyone.

To compound matters I’m trying to build a double gate.

The part towards the brick wall will be the main entry with the other half to open in case it’s needed.

The brick wall has no framing. It’s brick on the outside and cinderblock on the inside.

If I don’t attach the post to the house, what do I use to fasten a few boards to inbetween the post amd the brick wall?

Thanks so much your patience everyone. Much appreciated

It's better with block behind the brick, you can use epoxy with masonry screens, best way to anchor to masonry.

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[readhead]

Now we know that there is block I would definitely anchor to the wall. If the CMU is not grouted then use epoxy and screens as mentioned above.

 

[CraigStu]

Now we know that there is block I would definitely anchor to the wall. If the CMU is not grouted then use epoxy and screens as mentioned above.

I agree. How many times do we need to see threads about 'adjusting' gate posts that have sagged? Depending what is on the other side of the wall and how viewable it is, I would drill all the way through brick and block, and then figure out a fastener that I wouldn't mind looking at. Lowes has standard finish bolts in 10 and 12 inch lengths and McMaster hass SS bolts.

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[kbs2244]

think about a sliding gate as an option

 

[ive]

how wide gate panels are you thinking? , how tall?
can you just hang the gate off a post at the garage wall? maybe double posts side by side anchored to each other?
I suppose a few lengths of threaded rod or long bolts thru the brick & block would be a suitable post anchor to the wall

Width of the opening is little less than 10’. I’d like it at 6’ high. Great idea about the ready rod.

 

[ive]

6x6 saddle bracket embedded in a beefy concrete footer and don't attach it to the house at all.

Looks wonderful

 

[ive]

Put a steel post in a plastic pocket in between the man door and the gate proper. When you need full access, open both panels and pull the steel post out.

Good idea

 

[ive]

It's better with block behind the brick, you can use epoxy with masonry screens, best way to anchor to masonry.

Red Head HB Wire Mesh Screen, 2 in L, 1/4 in Dia. HB14-2 | Zoro

Order Red Head HB Wire Mesh Screen, 2 in L, 1/4 in Dia., HB14-2 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Thank you. Looking at this. Appreciated

 

[ive]

Now we know that there is block I would definitely anchor to the wall. If the CMU is not grouted then use epoxy and screens as mentioned above.

Thanks for telling me. I didn’t know about this.

 

[ive]

I agree. How many times do we need to see threads about 'adjusting' gate posts that have sagged? Depending what is on the other side of the wall and how viewable it is, I would drill all the way through brick and block, and then figure out a fastener that I wouldn't mind looking at. Lowes has standard finish bolts in 10 and 12 inch lengths and McMaster hass SS bolts.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Thank you very much. I don’t want sagging gates.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If the post will be on the hinge side, forget a wooden post. Use a 4" square tube. The wall thickness would have to be about 1/4". Needs to be set at least 40" deep in concrete. Fill the post with concrete.

Build a wood facade around it.

 

[ive]

If the post will be on the hinge side, forget a wooden post. Use a 4" square tube. The wall thickness would have to be about 1/4". Needs to be set at least 40" deep in concrete. Fill the post with concrete.

Build a wood facade around it.

That’s a good idea as well.

 

[ive]

Raya, this is what you used? This saddle bracket is gonna be ok with the load of the door on it?

Thank you.

 

[ive]

Forgot the picture

 

[Dig Doug]

I would go steel galvanized post you will never have to replace it! And then fill it or cap it to keep water out.

All the work is in setting the post, once it’s done your golden! Hold it off the floor of the post hole so it won’t rust from the bottom up.

wood posts expand and then shrink as seasons come and go & eventually break the concrete then fail.

an Heavy duty post base will work ( like posted above) for a while also but your drilling holes for the bolts and moisture with get inside and fail at the drilled bolt holes. The other 5 foot will make great fire wood !

 

[monkeyplasm]

Didn't read the whole thread, short on time...Can you use a roller-sliding gate and let the ground support the weight?

 

[Joemctag]

for gates I like to use a header across both the hinge & latch side posts . it ties them together so there's virtually no deflection and the opening stays uniform . I would not attach to the brick

This is what I do . You come back in 25 years and it closes and latches like it was new.

 

[ive]

Hi Guys.

Monkey I’m gonna use a roller.

Do I need to use a sonotube for the posts? They are 8”x8”x12’.

Thank you.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Forgot the picture

I don’t think that base is suitable for a fence post. Nothing to resist moment forces. It’s meant to anchor something like a gazebo that could stand by itself.

 

[DGZRT]

My daughter has a nice gate . The wheel is the cats ashhh

 

[The Cobbler]

Forgot the picture

not the right thing for your application.
also be sure to be below frost line on your post

 

[nadogail]

I have had good results by drilling the wall and running bolts through a plate inside the wall. That way the building supports the gate. Drywall inside the building is easy to patch.

 

[ive]

I have had good results by drilling the wall and running bolts through a plate inside the wall. That way the building supports the gate. Drywall inside the building is easy to patch.

Great idea. Thank you.