How do I beef up a cheap Chinese hub puller tool?

[s45]

I am trying to replace a bearing on my Golf and just bought this DASBET Front Hub Installer Puller Tool and wanted to know if there is any way I can beef it up. Some people on Amazon wrote that they stripped out the tool after a couple of uses.

What is more likely to strip on this tool, the forcing screw or the threads in the yoke? From what I read it's mainly the screw but then I did some research and apparently the yoke threads are more likely to strip? Not sure if that's true though.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

[cgrutt]

Not same set but I recently bought a HF bearing set and immediately stripped the bolt. I used a different bolt from another set for most of the project with no issues. The HF bolt had threads that looked like standard screw threads the one from the other kit looked more like what you'd find on a vise (is that acme threads?). I bought a few different grade 8 bolts from tractor supply to replace the stripped HF bolt but haven't used them yet. Needed to buy a few different sizes because the threads didn't run full length of the bolt. Thought about returning set but the cups and "plates" seemed to work fine it was just the bolt that was pretty much junk.

 

[whateg01]

I buy a ton of cheap tools on Amazon for some stuff, often knowing that I'll have to modify it to work well. but I can't think of a good way to make that a better tool. If the threads on the body strip out there's not much you can do without welding a nut on top. In this case, I would return it and find one with better reviews.

 

[s45]

Not same set but I recently bought a HF bearing set and immediately stripped the bolt. I used a different bolt from another set for most of the project with no issues. The HF bolt had threads that looked like standard screw threads the one from the other kit looked more like what you'd find on a vise (is that acme threads?). I bought a few different grade 8 bolts from tractor supply to replace the stripped HF bolt but haven't used them yet. Needed to buy a few different sizes because the threads didn't run full length of the bolt. Thought about returning set but the cups and "plates" seemed to work fine it was just the bolt that was pretty much junk.

Thanks for the feedback, I actually just bought a bearing puller set too (a Chinese one from Amazon) and a lot of people were writing that they stripped out the bolt as well. I wonder if the yoke threads on this tool will hold up if I get a better forcing screw.

 

[s45]

I buy a ton of cheap tools on Amazon for some stuff, often knowing that I'll have to modify it to work well. but I can't think of a good way to make that a better tool. If the threads on the body strip out there's not much you can do without welding a nut on top. In this case, I would return it and find one with better reviews.

Yah I'm going to try this thing out and see how it goes, will use the accompanying nut and grease the screw threads before use but you think the threads on the yoke are also a weak point?

 

[whateg01]

Yah I'm going to try this thing out and see how it goes, will use the accompanying nut and grease the screw threads before use but you think the threads on the yoke are also a weak point?

No idea which will fail first. Sounds like it's anybody's guess. I would think the grease will help. Most of the time when I've seen threads in pullers fail, they gall up and neither are usable. It all depends on which part is harder, the screw or the body.

 

[isr2kba]

If you live in the Northeast or some rust belt area then I bet the forcing screw strips first. Like others have said, grease the thread contact area super well.

If you live in Arizona or some non-rusty climate, it’s a trick question because the wheel bearing will fall out on its own and you won’t even get to use a puller.

 

[ChevyEFI]

If you want to get a new one, rent a few of them ( to bypass the used ones ) and return.

Lube the screw, tap the part to free it, turn the screw, repeat.

If you want to get a better tool, don't buy that one.

In my experience, the female threads lose first.

 

[signcrafter]

Usually forcing screw. Make sure you lube it. Also you can put some pressure on it and then hit the hub with hammer. Then more force. Will help not making the screw do all the work.

 

[s45]

No idea which will fail first. Sounds like it's anybody's guess. I would think the grease will help. Most of the time when I've seen threads in pullers fail, they gall up and neither are usable. It all depends on which part is harder, the screw or the body.

I see, well I'll be sure to use a lot of grease or maybe check to see if I have anti-seize, heard that's even better

If you live in the Northeast or some rust belt area then I bet the forcing screw strips first. Like others have said, grease the thread contact area super well.

If you live in Arizona or some non-rusty climate, it’s a trick question because the wheel bearing will fall out on its own and you won’t even get to use a puller.

Interesting, what makes you think the screw will strip first? And I live in Toronto, living in the rust belt ***** and working on cars here is a total nightmare. Even the most basic repairs are a battle and a torch is your best friend lol

 

[f121]

How are you planning on using that? I don't see how that would be useful for a front bearing on a golf.

 

[s45]

How are you planning on using that? I don't see how that would be useful for a front bearing on a golf.

I'm going to put it on the hub and tighten the pressure screw onto the axle until the axle pops out then maybe bolt an old rotor onto the hub and whack the rotor until the hub comes out. Or I could maybe press out the hub with the bearing puller kit. The axle is kinda seized and I'm worried about that but hopefully my plan works.

 

[s45]

Usually forcing screw. Make sure you lube it. Also you can put some pressure on it and then hit the hub with hammer. Then more force. Will help not making the screw do all the work.

Ok will do, got my 3 pound mini sledge ready to go. Will be using penetrating oil and heat as well.

 

[f121]

Normally you can pop the cv axle out by giving it a tap with a hammer, if not it shouldn't be seized bad enough to damage the puller.

Using that to remove the hub from the upright won't work, once the axle pops out, there won't be anything for the screw to push against. I normally use a hydraulic press to remove the hub from the upright and replace the bearing, if it's seized enough to need a puller to remove the cv axle, you won't do the bearing with a hammer.

Make sure you don't support the upright on the brake mounting lugs while you're removing the bearing, they bend easily then the brake never works right again.

 

[s45]

Normally you can pop the cv axle out by giving it a tap with a hammer, if not it shouldn't be seized bad enough to damage the puller.

Using that to remove the hub from the upright won't work, once the axle pops out, there won't be anything for the screw to push against. I normally use a hydraulic press to remove the hub from the upright and replace the bearing, if it's seized enough to need a puller to remove the cv axle, you won't do the bearing with a hammer.

Make sure you don't support the upright on the brake mounting lugs while you're removing the bearing, they bend easily then the brake never works right again.

I just bought this car and I think it was sitting for a while so the wheel parts are pretty rusty and I tried hammering on the axle but it didn't budge. My main concern right now is the axle, if I can get that out then maybe I can just use a bearing tool to press the hub out. The knuckle or upright is still partially mounted and I don't think I'm going to take it out unless I really have to.

 

[isr2kba]

If that car spent its life in Toronto, I think stripping forcing screws or plate threads is academic. Something will break on that tool and the wheel bearing will remain firmly in place.

Not a guarantee but a safe bet.

That tool might free the axle from the hub if it is stuck in there; once the axle frees, remove the knuckle and ideally press out the bearing (or secure it in a vise and bash it out.

If you must leave the knuckle in place then a few cycles of heating, cooling, spraying penetrant and an air hammer. If you’re changing out the rotor maybe you can mount the old one on there backwards and beat that thing around til it breaks or frees the bearing.

You’ll get it apart but patience and time will be necessary.

Eta: I don’t know about VW specifically but make sure there is no snap ring or other encumbrance on the axle shaft.

 

[rancherbill]

-Don't use an impact on these low cost ones.
-Grease the threads on the tool
-use penetrating oil on what you are taking apart.
-tighten hammer the thing you're taking apart, tighten, hammer again.

or

-Go to your auto supply store where you bought your parts they will loan you a pro-grade tool for free (at least here they do).

 

[isr2kba]

You could also try redneckinit:

1 Put everything back together leaving the axle nut and the bearing retain bolts a few turns loose.

2 Get in a fight w your old lady.

3 Drive the car like you stole it all the way across town to a shithole dive, hitting every pothole, curb and rr track between here and there.

4 Leave the keys in the ignition and the door open while you go inside and get hammered.

5 If the car is still there or you can still find it, get in, sleep off the booze and drive it back home even faster and hitting more stuff harder.

6 The bearing should now be ready to smash out using a larger hammer.

7 if not, restart at first step.

 

[s45]

If that car spent its life in Toronto, I think stripping forcing screws or plate threads is academic. Something will break on that tool and the wheel bearing will remain firmly in place.

Not a guarantee but a safe bet.

That tool might free the axle from the hub if it is stuck in there; once the axle frees, remove the knuckle and ideally press out the bearing (or secure it in a vise and bash it out.

If you must leave the knuckle in place then a few cycles of heating, cooling, spraying penetrant and an air hammer. If you’re changing out the rotor maybe you can mount the old one on there backwards and beat that thing around til it breaks or frees the bearing.

You’ll get it apart but patience and time will be necessary.

Eta: I don’t know about VW specifically but make sure there is no snap ring or other encumbrance on the axle shaft.

This car was mainly a highway car but it sat for the last little while, probably 1-2 years I'm guessing. If the axle puts up a fight I'm going to go buy a rotary hammer drill and that should do the trick. Wish I had an air hammer but we don't have a garage so I never bought a compressor, I do this kinda stuff on my driveway.

Can't I use the bearing tool to press the hub out of the bearing? That's what I'm going to do if I can't beat it out with the rotor on.

Yes I've learned to be very patient working on cars over here and as far as I know there isn't anything holding the axle in place besides the splines.

 

[isr2kba]

Can't I use the bearing tool to press the hub out of the bearing? That's what I'm going to do if I can't beat it out with the rotor on.

Isn’t the hub and bearing a single unit? What year is the car?

 

[s45]

-Don't use an impact on these low cost ones.
-Grease the threads on the tool
-use penetrating oil on what you are taking apart.
-tighten hammer the thing you're taking apart, tighten, hammer again.

or

-Go to your auto supply store where you bought your parts they will loan you a pro-grade tool for free (at least here they do).

Ok will do, thanks. And I'm addicted to tools so I can't rent lol

 

[s45]

Isn’t the hub and bearing a single unit? What year is the car?

No it's not, the hub lives inside the bearing. It's an 07 City Golf.

 

[f121]

Can't I use the bearing tool to press the hub out of the bearing? That's what I'm going to do if I can't beat it out with the rotor on.

What would the bearing tool press against?

 

[s45]

What would the bearing tool press against?

Nevermind I dunno lol looks like I'm going to have to take the knuckle out.

 

[isr2kba]

No it's not, the hub lives inside the bearing. It's an 07 City Golf.

I haven’t worked on VW since the 90’s and even then they were moving away from bearings like that. There were snap rings holding the bearings in and there is was a tool to press them out on the car that didn’t work very well when they were seized in. I assume that by 07 there were no more separate assemblies, but assumption is the mother of all f-ups.

Check to make sure you are dealing with that old style.

 

[s45]

I haven’t worked on VW since the 90’s and even then they were moving away from bearings like that. There were snap rings holding the bearings in and there is was a tool to press them out on the car that didn’t work very well when they were seized in. I assume that by 07 there were no more separate assemblies, but assumption is the mother of all f-ups.

Check to make sure you are dealing with that old style.

Yah man this thing looks like it was build buy some Russian that just got back from war or something. I mean it's like someone took a tractor or tank engine and just shrunk it down to fit a car. The car has a very old and dingy yet highly sophisticated feel to it even though it's just a base model Golf. It's completely different from the Hondas I'm use to driving.

And yah I'm pretty sure it has a snap ring holding the bearing which will most likely be rusted up and seized so I will probably have to chisel it free. I'll be happy if I can even get to the snap ring at this point.

 

[isr2kba]

Well if that’s the case, the knuckle will most certainly have to be removed and you’ll first press out the hub, then remove the snap rings and press out the bearing.

There used to be a tool that did it on the car and it pulled the hub (pressing against the knuckle) and then the bearing, again pressing against the knuckle. I’m sure it was a great tool to use on track cars, but after the assembly sits in salty water for a few years, it was hopeless.

 

[bwringer]

There's a thing called a "hub tamer" for (theoretically) doing these on the car, but it's spendy... unless you're a shop owner doing a bunch of these and you need the time savings, then just take the knuckle out. Check the Tube of You for real-life videos of this tool in action; I suggest South Main Auto.

If the axle is firmly stuck in the hub, as they often are, sometimes you just have to accept the fact that you're replacing both the bearing/hub and the axle, hand a sledgehammer to a nearby Navy helicopter mechanic*, and stand back a bit. When asking nicely with a hammer doesn't work, you have to get nasty and maybe spend a little more money than you had hoped.

I've also just removed the knuckle with the stuck axle in place, popped the axle out of the transmission, then dealt with the entire mess in my hyooooooodraulic press.




*Dude could assemble helicopters in his sleep, but cars were alien technology and he was DEEPLY suspicious of any mechanism that didn't leak.

 

[cgrutt]

There's a thing called a "hub tamer" for (theoretically) doing these on the car, but it's spendy... unless you're a shop owner doing a bunch of these and you need the time savings, then just take the knuckle out. Check the Tube of You for real-life videos of this tool in action; I suggest South Main Auto.

Not sure if this is similar or not but I have an Astro Pneumatic rotor and hub puller it's very "beefy" and was not too spendy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBIU7F4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

OP I just ordered a set of these to replace those tractor supply bolts I mentioned above may work for you too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBI7EDW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[f121]

If the axle is firmly stuck in the hub, as they often are, sometimes you just have to accept the fact that you're replacing both the bearing/hub and the axle, hand a sledgehammer to a nearby Navy helicopter mechanic*, and stand back a bit. When asking nicely with a hammer doesn't work, you have to get nasty and maybe spend a little more money than you had hoped.

I wouldn't expect to need to replace the cv axle just because it's seized into the hub. Just tap or press it out of the upright. Got to be careful hammering the axle out if you plan to reuse it because you can mushroom the end quite easily. Best to loosen the hub nut a turn or two and make sure you're hitting that, rather than the end of the shaft directly.

And yah I'm pretty sure it has a snap ring holding the bearing which will most likely be rusted up and seized so I will probably have to chisel it free. I'll be happy if I can even get to the snap ring at this point.

There will be a snap ring/circlips on the inside holding the bearing into the upright, it will be rusted up and need chiseling off. If your lucky you might manage to break it free and pop it out with a couple of screwdrivers.

I would then take the knuckle and new bearing to your local friendly auto shop with some cash and get them to press the old breaking out and the new one in.

 

[dnschmidt]

OK, I know I'm a *****, and proud of it, but how about buying a better quality set. ASTRO makes these for a reasonable price and they've got one of the best guarantees in the business. The cheapest is never the way to go. I'm not saying go with OTC but somewhere in the middle ground is where the best value exists.

 

[vavet]

In a shop environment, this was easier - pop the axle shaft out with the air hammer, remove the spindle, carry to the press, press old bearing out and new bearing in.

Not as easy with at-home tools.
One thing I've done with ball joints on control arms and tie rod ends is to install the tool and tighten. Leave it for 2-3 minutes, give it another 1/4 turn. You might be surprised how much easier it turns after it sets. Keep doing that. Let time work for you. Do something else if you can - work on another car, get a cup of coffee, etc.. Sometimes those ball joints will pop after setting for a few minutes. Check on it every few minutes, giving it a little bit more torque on the forcing screw.

I don't think I ever did that on bearings on axle shafts, but I see no reason it wouldn't work.

 

[s45]

Well if that’s the case, the knuckle will most certainly have to be removed and you’ll first press out the hub, then remove the snap rings and press out the bearing.

There used to be a tool that did it on the car and it pulled the hub (pressing against the knuckle) and then the bearing, again pressing against the knuckle. I’m sure it was a great tool to use on track cars, but after the assembly sits in salty water for a few years, it was hopeless.

Yah if the rotor trick doesn't work which I'm guessing it probably won't I'll take off the knuckle and find someone to press everything out. Before doing that I'll try to beat on the back of the hub with a socket though and see what happens.

There's a thing called a "hub tamer" for (theoretically) doing these on the car, but it's spendy... unless you're a shop owner doing a bunch of these and you need the time savings, then just take the knuckle out. Check the Tube of You for real-life videos of this tool in action; I suggest South Main Auto.

If the axle is firmly stuck in the hub, as they often are, sometimes you just have to accept the fact that you're replacing both the bearing/hub and the axle, hand a sledgehammer to a nearby Navy helicopter mechanic*, and stand back a bit. When asking nicely with a hammer doesn't work, you have to get nasty and maybe spend a little more money than you had hoped.

I've also just removed the knuckle with the stuck axle in place, popped the axle out of the transmission, then dealt with the entire mess in my hyooooooodraulic press.




*Dude could assemble helicopters in his sleep, but cars were alien technology and he was DEEPLY suspicious of any mechanism that didn't leak.

I don't think a hub tamer would work on this car as there's nothing for the forcing bolt or screw to push against after the axle has been removed. And yah I hope the axle doesn't put up that much of a fight but we'll see. Currently waiting on Amazon to deliver the hub puller, it's supposed to arrive today. I wish I had a garage so I could buy a press and air hammer.

Not sure if this is similar or not but I have an Astro Pneumatic rotor and hub puller it's very "beefy" and was not too spendy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBIU7F4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

OP I just ordered a set of these to replace those tractor supply bolts I mentioned above may work for you too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBI7EDW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Nice, not sure if that tool would work on this car. Most videos I've seen was of people removing the knuckle or using a slide hammer with the yoke that I bought but I didn't think the slide hammer would work but should have just bought one anyway to try it.

I saw those bolts, they look pretty good but might grab something like this if I strip out the current screw OTC 24833.

I wouldn't expect to need to replace the cv axle just because it's seized into the hub. Just tap or press it out of the upright. Got to be careful hammering the axle out if you plan to reuse it because you can mushroom the end quite easily. Best to loosen the hub nut a turn or two and make sure you're hitting that, rather than the end of the shaft directly.



There will be a snap ring/circlips on the inside holding the bearing into the upright, it will be rusted up and need chiseling off. If your lucky you might manage to break it free and pop it out with a couple of screwdrivers.

I would then take the knuckle and new bearing to your local friendly auto shop with some cash and get them to press the old breaking out and the new one in.

Yah I bought new axle nuts so did exactly what you said, loosened the old nut until it was sitting ahead of the axle and beat on that instead. My friend has a press so maybe I can take the knuckle over to him and have him press it out. Going to go grab a good pair of snap ring pliers as I will probably need them to fix the A/C too. I suspect the A/C clutch coil has gone bad on this car.

OK, I know I'm a *****, and proud of it, but how about buying a better quality set. ASTRO makes these for a reasonable price and they've got one of the best guarantees in the business. The cheapest is never the way to go. I'm not saying go with OTC but somewhere in the middle ground is where the best value exists.

I don't think it would work. Below are some pictures of what I'm dealing with

 

[will335i]

This is exactly how the rear is on my BMW. What I did was use the puller to push the CV out then I put a bearing separator between the hub and knuckle. You can then use the bearing separator to push against using the lug bolts to push the hub out. There should be some youtube videos is you look up BMW e92/90 rear wheel bearing replacement.

 

[s45]

Update: the puller arrived and I got the axle out without much of a fight. Bout to beat on this thing now and see if I can get the hub loose with the rotor on backwards. The hub is pretty wobbly already so maybe it might break free.

 

[s45]

Update 2: got it. Now for that rusty snap ring. I didn't get a chance to buy good snap ring pliers but I'm going to go at it with a cheap pair and see what happens. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[f121]

Good effort getting that off! Interesting it has a circlip on the front, does it have one on the back, or do those bearings go in from the front? Some vw uprights have two circlips so you can push the bearing through them, but I thought that was only the mk1 platform

 

[bwringer]

Crikey, do you park that out on the beach or something?

 

[MileHighRover]

Good job. Working on rusty stuff *****. Working on cars can already be a frustrating experience. Working on rusty cars can push you to borderline insanity.

 

[s45]

Update 3: Got the snap ring and bearing out! The snap ring came out easy, looks like it wasn't sitting in the groove all the way judging by the pic above or something but bearing was pretty hard to break free and I was initially struggling to find the right cup sizes in the bearing kit. As soon as I broke it free it was out shortly after though. Had to use a breaker bar on one end of the bearing tool.

The old bearing says it's made in England, think the brand is NSK?

Also I messed around for a bit trying to heat the race to get it off the hub but wasn't successful so I'm just going to buy a puller kit for that too and press the new bearing in tomorrow.