Blocking for what? Just bridging between?
Just toenail through the blocking into the joists
Op does not understand the word “toenail” From the context. just be sure you follow that.
The answer given By Mike is correct.
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021184090.pdf
At the bottom left on page 6, they say “nail at an angle” through the joists into the blocking. Is that the opposite of what toenailing is? What Mike says toenailing. Thank you.
Either simpson strongtie joist hangers or ML angles
https://www.strongtie.com/deckconnectors_decks/ml_angle/p/ml
Yes, just bridging. Thanks
I have a nail gun that uses clipped nails. Is that against code in MA? Can I use screws?
Thanks. Thats a handy tool. I’ll know i missed my mark when I cant move it to the next bayYes, pretty much the opposite of toenailing. Start with an angled nail about an inch back from the edge of the block and drive it through the block into the joist. Not as good as driving straight through the joist into the block but it's done in situations like these where there isn't much choice. And with blocking it will be fine. Not much shear force on the nails for blocking. It's just to hold the block in place. Most of the force is compression on the blocks.
This is for a stud but the concept is the same. Consider the stud is your block between joists.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/woodworking/21019379/the-right-way-to-toenail
Thanks. Thats a handy tool. I’ll know i missed my mark when I cant move it to the next bay
Not sure if code compliant but my opinion is that it works much better. Use a Kreg Jig so it can handle 2x material (mine's a 3/4" originally so I have to back it off some...basically I want the fastener to exit at the midpoint of the endgrain) but then install torx drive screws into the holes. Can drill from both sides staggered to emulate a toenail. There's two steps to drill and then drive so it takes a little more time but I feel like the result is stronger, less beating up the board, no splitting, and what we all want: more clampload between the end-grain and the side-grain.
Pocket screws are not very strong, but likely fine for this
Yes, being "solid blocking" I assumed possibly incorrectly that it was 2X framing materials being used. If you take out the little cap screws (Kreg screws?) that are designed for the joint and put in #10 torx drives they get fairly rigid.
Your putting this in an X pattern like posted above? They so make metal brackets that if I remember where very cheap. They take place of any wood.
https://www.fastenersplus.com/Simps...QfYss1En2mWvXqiFeeIk1sEdpYfmMPDYaAiNWEALw_wcB
I have used them before. There prob not nearly as strong as a 2x12 cross bracing screwed in though.
Just curious, what are you building that you have double 2x12 joists?