How do I fix concrete edge chunk

[SpyderMike]

Arrrgh, workers damaged my floor with a chunk out of the edge where I will drive in. What is the best way to repair this please? It is about 4 inches in longest dimension. I will not be painting or coating the floor, and I do not mind if there is a color difference.

Thanks for any ideas you have...
Mike

 

[dadsEH]

Really?
Mix up some mortar.

 

[SpyderMike]

Really...That is the edge I will drive up over. The OSB is a ramp that will be removed. You are saying mortar alone will take the abuse at the edge and will not chunk out again when my tire constantly hits that spot? That would be nice and easy.

 

[thammel]

I'm thinking you need to do it the way dentists build up the edge of a tooth that's gone; drill a couple of holes and put in steel rod/rebar/bolts and then put the mix on it. I'd epoxy the metal in first.

Tom

 

[SpyderMike]

Interesting idea...thanks.

 

[dogdog]

probably won't work.... I have a similiar edge lon my side walk that some jackass neighbor ramp his truck over it as soon as I took off the tapes.... it cracked almost like yours. I tried those high strength mixes , didn't work for long.... interesting to see a solutions as well.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

A spall like that on a high wear edge isn't likely to stay fixed indefinitely but give it a shot. Use Sikaflex products. You can research which one online.

 

[AndyCBR]

Arrrgh, workers damaged my floor with a chunk out of the edge where I will drive in. What is the best way to repair this please? It is about 4 inches in longest dimension. I will not be painting or coating the floor, and I do not mind if there is a color difference.

Thanks for any ideas you have...
Mike

After the drive is poured up against it you can full the void with self leveling caulk that is rated for vehicle traffic. Only other option is some type of 2 part epoxy repair mixed with sand.

It doesn't help that the edge wasn't radiused ("edged") when placed.

 

[MagKarl]

That happened to me as well, big chunk out of the garage slab edge was taken out by a delivery truck bumper. We just left it until we poured the apron. The finisher I had hired mixed a handful of fresh mud with some sort of epoxy additive and filled it in. I sure wish I knew what he used because that was ~5 years ago and still holding up great. Whatever it was made the patch a little darker color but no physical deterioration at all.

 

[wayne55]

There are "bonding" agents that can be added to the mortar mix. Clean and coat the area with the bonding agent where the chunk came out and then add and level out the mortar which also contains some bonding agent.

I've also had luck with just adding a grout mixture to repair small indentions in my garage floor.

 

[lakeroadster]

The success of most of the repairs mentioned above are related to location, location, location.

Which begs the question: OP... where are you located?

If you live in a climate where you have freezing / thawing conditions the only solution is a flexible caulk, as has been previously suggested.

And that repair will likely not be permanent and thus need to be redone on occasion.

Future pours that include fiber in the concrete helps to minimize these issues.

 

[OldSoldier]

You can search google for "horizontal concrete repair patch material". There are many products that are designed for this type of fix. I used a product for one of my projects (I am a concrete subcontractor) called "Pave Patch 3000" that is designed to be driven over by very heavy vehicle traffic. If you follow the directions on the bag (I paid $26/bag at White Cap, you'd only need one bag and have much left over) it should hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at it. My guys made it look seamless with the existing concrete. My guess is that whatever product your local construction supply sells is what is appropriate for your climate, because that is what the local highway contractors will buy.

For the Pave Patch 3000 we had to sawcut neat (you can do this with an angle grinder and a diamond blade) and chip to 1/2" depth. Then we saturated the existing substrate and mixed the material, applied it and troweled it and then broomed it to match the surrounding finish. Within about an hour it will be as strong as your surrounding concrete. A day later it is 5000+ PSI. Don't feather edge it, chip 1/2"!

 

[SteveCh]

Maybe attaching an aluminum angle along the edge and bolting it in place with stove bolts or whatever. You'd have to drill into the concrete with a hammer drill or the like. You might also have to cut down one side of the angle so it'll fit, the "downward" edge I mean. Countersink at each bolt hole so the bolt fits level with the surface of the aluminum. That will protect the "mortar" substance.

 

[BlackTalon]

For the Pave Patch 3000 we had to sawcut neat (you can do this with an angle grinder and a diamond blade) and chip to 1/2" depth. Then we saturated the existing substrate and mixed the material, applied it and troweled it and then broomed it to match the surrounding finish. Within about an hour it will be as strong as your surrounding concrete. A day later it is 5000+ PSI. Don't feather edge it, chip 1/2"!

This saw cutting and chipping down high spots within the area to receive the patching mortar is SOP for the concrete repair industry, and is critical in the long-term success of the patch.

 

[dogdog]

Y........
For the Pave Patch 3000 we had to sawcut neat (you can do this with an angle grinder and a diamond blade) and chip to 1/2" depth. Then we saturated the existing substrate and mixed the material, applied it and troweled it and then broomed it to match the surrounding finish. Within about an hour it will be as strong as your surrounding concrete. A day later it is 5000+ PSI. Don't feather edge it, chip 1/2"!

who sells these Pave Patch 3000 ? don't see them in HD or Lowes....

 

[PoorOwner]

I have similar damage from my experience I think planipatch or feather finish product will do a decent job if you can get it to stick. And they are fairly sticky even without the latex additive. Although, I wouldn't hurt a tire much to drive over without doing any repair

 

[machsnell]

Ardex makes an excellent product that will feather finish

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[OccupantRJ]

Rockite. Drill a few small holes in the area of the bad spot. Mix Rockite to a pancake batter consistency. Pour a little too much in the bad spot. Let it set up for a few hours. Grind it down flush with an angle grinder with a 4-1/2" masonry grinding disc. I have been repairing a 6 foot stretch of damaged concrete like this where there was previously a concrete block wall. When the wall was knocked out it damaged the concrete similar to your situation. The Dewalt disc I am using does a rather good job at the grinding. I am very pleased with the results. Amazon has Rockite for about $7.

 

[OldSoldier]

who sells these Pave Patch 3000 ? don't see them in HD or Lowes....

Do you have a White Cap near you? I also can get it from Carter Waters but they are just in the midwest. Perhaps a search for "concrete construction supply" in your local area might bear fruit for a company that sells highway repair materials.

 

[dogdog]

Do you have a White Cap near you? I also can get it from Carter Waters but they are just in the midwest. Perhaps a search for "concrete construction supply" in your local area might bear fruit for a company that sells highway repair materials.

ok, will try a local mason supply.... see if they carries them. Thanks.

 

[LXCam]

Depot used to carry and still might a polymer adhesive that works well. No different that what's been suggested btw. But just clean this area well, paint it on and mix it into cement and just patch the area.