how do i get bearing off
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American Locomotive
Well-known member
Yup, basically you need a puller that grabs the bearing from underneath, and then will push the shaft down and out of the bearing.
Keep in mind that removing bearings in this way will destroy them.
Keep in mind that removing bearings in this way will destroy them.
Dingleburry
Well-known member
Looks like the bearing ID is smaller then the keyed section. Bearing might have to come off the other way.
Try to look up your model on ereplacementparts.com get a schematic
Try to look up your model on ereplacementparts.com get a schematic
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AS556
Well-known member
Get a puller set at harbor freight. You can also heat the bearing.
One of the tools below and a shop press will get it done.
https://www.harborfreight.com/beari...HrK8U1XgJvY_WFLHQeFCfXJrlbGfdrd0aAi_zEALw_wcB
https://www.harborfreight.com/beari...HrK8U1XgJvY_WFLHQeFCfXJrlbGfdrd0aAi_zEALw_wcB
rsanter
Well-known member
Show pictures from both ends and close up.
Look at the parts diagram too.
That gear comes off or the collar comes off before the bearing comes off.
Be careful as when you press both off together you will be putting force to the outer part of the bearing that can break/explode. Don’t care about killing the bearing you need to carefully that the bearing scrapnel does not hurt you.
Put some metal shield between you and the bearing just in case.
If the bearing outer ring comes apart you will then have to go again to get the gear or collar off and then cut the inner part of the bearing to release tension.
Look at the parts diagram too.
That gear comes off or the collar comes off before the bearing comes off.
Be careful as when you press both off together you will be putting force to the outer part of the bearing that can break/explode. Don’t care about killing the bearing you need to carefully that the bearing scrapnel does not hurt you.
Put some metal shield between you and the bearing just in case.
If the bearing outer ring comes apart you will then have to go again to get the gear or collar off and then cut the inner part of the bearing to release tension.
I agree that the something else comes off before the bearing a pic from the gear end would help.
does the shaft look separate from the gear ?
does the shaft look separate from the gear ?
Is the piece on top with the flat spots a thimble nut that threads off?
These bearings are often interference fit using heat so freezing the inners and heating the outers usually helps. If you froze the whole thing just wrapping a wet rag soaked in scalding water around the bearing at the last minute (you don't want to heat the innards) would do it.
If you think you won't likely need a bearing splitter too often in your future the one set liked to above is cheap and should do but this is one puller that can be subjected to a great deal of force and cheap splitters will fall apart. A good splitter made from tool steel that has been carefully hardened and tempered will last a lifetime but will cost several hundred bucks. I like snap-on because the threaded holes that accept the perpendicular puller bolts are offset to give you finger access when needed in certain situations. They are also tough as hell.
These bearings are often interference fit using heat so freezing the inners and heating the outers usually helps. If you froze the whole thing just wrapping a wet rag soaked in scalding water around the bearing at the last minute (you don't want to heat the innards) would do it.
If you think you won't likely need a bearing splitter too often in your future the one set liked to above is cheap and should do but this is one puller that can be subjected to a great deal of force and cheap splitters will fall apart. A good splitter made from tool steel that has been carefully hardened and tempered will last a lifetime but will cost several hundred bucks. I like snap-on because the threaded holes that accept the perpendicular puller bolts are offset to give you finger access when needed in certain situations. They are also tough as hell.
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Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
Zip-Cut , bearings are cheap enough.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
Once you post some more pics and let the other members give their input on how to remove the bearing, then you can rent bearing removal tools from most auto parts stores.
is there a keyway on the gear end? if so the gear will come off that shaft
so then everything comes off the other end . you should be able to press it all off and then reassemble with the new bearing . heat the parts in oil and freeze the shaft and everything will drop into place for reassembly
Why does the spacer have 2 cut outs? Is it possible that it threads off with a c-spanner or pinned socket? I'd try that 1st.
I would put some thick leather (a belt etc.) around the gear and put it in a vise just tight enough that it doesn't spin and careful not to break any teeth off
. Then take a wrench that fits on the 2 flats on the thimble nut and see if it turns because it looks like it might. If it turns then the spacer behind it should be threaded also and it will thread off with a c-spanner or belt grip etc. Definitely try turning them off before pulling them off with a puller.
I would put some thick leather (a belt etc.) around the gear and put it in a vise just tight enough that it doesn't spin and careful not to break any teeth off
. Then take a wrench that fits on the 2 flats on the thimble nut and see if it turns because it looks like it might. If it turns then the spacer behind it should be threaded also and it will thread off with a c-spanner or belt grip etc. Definitely try turning them off before pulling them off with a puller.The bearing looks like a 62047 bearing. Looking at pics of one, it's clear the inner race is largely hidden behind that area of the shaft with the slot for the blade lock. I would guess the gear is pressed on and when removed will allow the bearing to be pressed off as well.
Dingleburry
Well-known member
I initially thought the keyed section was a nut, but the thickness of material at the bottom of the key seat would be extremely thin, is why i sugessed it comes off the other way. But honestly no offence to OP but it should be very simple as to how ot comes off. Clean it off and inspect it. Its sich a simple part. If you cant see how it comes off start tryin ****. Put a pipe over that ***** and whack it a few times, dont mushroom the shaft. See if it moves, if not go the other way. If you mushroom shaft file it down. If you needa go the other way clear the way to remove gear, if you heat it you might soften it. If you heat it dont get it very hot. Loctite only takes about 200c i believe to soften it. It shouldnt be too hard. Try using a punch and hammer see if that keyed secrion is a nut, Like i said in my earlier post look up the pqrts stack up if your having problems. Ereplacementparts.com
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Dingleburry
Well-known member
Whats the 7 designate?
6 = single row deep grove
2 = series, light
04 = 20mm id
7 = ???
I know 2rs and zz etc
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bubinga
Well-known member
That's what I was thinking when I saw the TWO slots in the collar.
No idea. Possibly a particular manufacturing spec or preload.
That's 6204Z not 7. Not uncommon to have 2 lock spots for the blade for convenience. 10-1 the "collar" everyone keeps claiming is threaded is all one piece machined. That gear is clearly key locked so nothing is going to unthread and you'd never have a 2 piece threaded part for the saw arbor anyway unless you wanted to get sued. This thread has kind of gotten a tad ridiculous like Rube Goldberg thinking about how to remove a nut from a bolt. Puller on the gear, pull it off, puller or socket on the bearing, take it off. Press back on. Done.
Only thing that has to be done is transferring the dust seal over to an over the counter 6204Z bearing (other side will be shielded already). Dental picks work good for removal without damage.
Only thing that has to be done is transferring the dust seal over to an over the counter 6204Z bearing (other side will be shielded already). Dental picks work good for removal without damage.
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WittHay
Well-known member
Google Princess Auto pullers and it will give you a idea of bearing separators and bar pullers.
If you are careful not to ****** up the threads. You can use a pin punch that fits the slots of the machined collar and hit down on the inner race of the bearing. The gear should come off and if you have a steady hand the bearing will be reusable if needed
If you dont care about the bearing, find a old socket that fits over the collar and hit it with a hammer. As long as you dont wreck the threads.
You can also put the assembly the opposite way in a vise and lightly tap the threaded end usually with a nut on the end of the shaft
If you are careful not to ****** up the threads. You can use a pin punch that fits the slots of the machined collar and hit down on the inner race of the bearing. The gear should come off and if you have a steady hand the bearing will be reusable if needed
If you dont care about the bearing, find a old socket that fits over the collar and hit it with a hammer. As long as you dont wreck the threads.
You can also put the assembly the opposite way in a vise and lightly tap the threaded end usually with a nut on the end of the shaft
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bubinga
Well-known member
No it a keyway
bubinga
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Rabid Badger
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What is the model number of the saw? Might be able to find a parts stackup that shows how everything goes together.
APEowner
Well-known member
How do you get a bearing off? Fondle its balls.
Sorry. I'll see myself out.
Sorry. I'll see myself out.
Rabid Badger
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https://www.ereplacementparts.com/arbor-assembly-p-1058809.html
That should give you a better idea of how it goes together. If it still won't come apart you can get a new one.
That should give you a better idea of how it goes together. If it still won't come apart you can get a new one.
bubinga
Well-known member
Can't believe they won't allow that to be pressed apart.
Is the arbor assembly complete unit expensive?
EDIT,No, Not Bad, $30.34
(I guess they still make you press it together)
,
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