How Do I Get This Busted Insert Out

[driz]

Yea I went and did it [emoji3061]. Got 7 of the gnarliest machine screws out after a week long ATF / Acetone soak off a Boss snowplow. The little M12 shook em all out nicely but on the last one[emoji2959].
Actually went far better than expected but now my trusty little M12 drill driver has the stripped off remains stuck in the Chuck. It’s not even jammed in but I can’t find anything on hand to grip the remains for a solid tug. Sooooooo whose found a way......


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[Firebrick43]

Rare earth magnet is what I used.

 

[gayler]

I broke off a socket adapter and my quarter inch impact one time. It wasn’t the same brand as yours mine was Hitachi. Minehead for Phillips head screws where you could take the front off the impact and there with a through hole all the way to the back of where you put the bits and I just took aSmall Allen wrench and pushed it out from the back and then just put the impact back together.

 

[Bogie1632]

I've had a few break needed a little tap back in to come free. After that maybe 50% would drop out on there own. The other slid out easily with a magnet.

Good luck.

V/R
Bogie

 

[casmurbax]

Here is a link to not so older thread that the poster had the same issue.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457373&highlight=broken+bit+stuck

Hope you are able to get it out with no issues. Of course that poster never came back and stated what they did, if anything to remove the broken piece.

 

[matt_i]

I think a tapered punch would help, don't have to whale on it, just medium taps and try to rock it back and forth, back and forth.

A little penetrant or ATF or any type of lube would assist too.

 

[PierceA]

Hold the release collar back, and using the red plastic spray straw on just about any aerosol can of solvent or penetrant, Aim the straw on one side of the stuck driver bit, the fluid will run down the side and get behind the bit and wash/push it out.
On stubborn ones I"ve uses a needle air gun aimed down the side of the broken bit. Either works well.

PierceA

 

[pizza]

i've had unbroken bits get jammed hard as hell and put up a real fight.

in that situation, i pulled out the quick release collar and wrapped some copper wire in the resulting space to jam the collar open. then i used vice grips or knipex pliers wrench or whatever with my foot (or free hand) against the ground and pulled up HARD with my other hand(s).

low quality video, but it shows the idea.

i found it easiest actually to use a pliers wrench because imo it provides a bit more clamping force than a vice grip. but then you lose a hand. to get around that issue, i had a buddy grip the pliers wrench closed. then i stood on the pliers wrench very close to the jaw and used both hands to pull up hard on the driver.

if the bit is actually jammed in there hard like with what happened to me, then that's going to be difficult. idk how you'd get it out without taking apart the quick release chuck and tapping it out from the back with a punch or something. or without taking it apart, maybe center punching and drilling a hole into the broken face of the bit and screwing something in that you could pull on.

 

[sk farmer]

i would bet money that it isn't stuck against the back, it is stuck in the hex corners. tap it on the opposite direction with a small punch, it should loosen up and come out with a magnet or as others said, fluid or air pressure.

 

[driz]

I should have Described it better. It’s really not jammed in there it’s just locked in with the tip ripped off. There was some of the tip left and I broke it trying to get it out. I guess I just have to get him around the edges and grab onto something to be able to pull on . I think I will try that wire trick so I get both hands free to Fool with it.


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[RTM]

Is there enough of the a Phillips left to grab it with small needle nose. I had someone put a bit tip into a socket that expected an extender, and only the tip was clear. Used a fresh pair of small needle nose with a good serration, and pulled it out. Don’t squeeze too hard, kr you may pop it out of the jaws.

 

[seber]

I have a pair of needle nose (note, needle nose not long nose) pliers that I ground the ends of the jaws into hooks for just such problems. The hooks are sharp and the jaws were then tempered to file hardness. They will bite into steel but due to the hardness, they are likely fragile. I use them carefully.

 

[rsanter]

Do you have a welder?
If you do you can tac to it and then pull

 

[pizza]

if it's not actually jammed, maybe a bit of epoxy or even superglue would be enough to yank it out.

 

[KnurledNut]

Id take the release sleeve off and beat the anvil against a block of wood.
It'll probably fall out.

 

[Jland]

I have a couple of different sizes of hemostats in my tool box just for that kind of issue

 

[driz]

Update it’s actually jammed between the flats. I tried to knock it back the way it came using a spring punch. Tried that 25-30 times but that inner collar simply moves too easy and no way yo hold onto and lock it that I know of[emoji85]. This thing hdoesntnlend itself to holding in a vise either. More of the meager tip busted off too[emoji3062]
I’m afraid it’s coming down to taking it apart . If I could get that outer collar off the pedestal it might, just might keep it solid enough to drift one way or the other . Other than that it’s gotta come out of the drill. I don’t want to go welding on that bit until it’s out or at all if I can help it. Everything’s too smash too close too tight.[emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959]



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[BolognaBlake]

This seems like a great way to justify purchasing the current Gen 2 M12 Fuel impact driver.

 

[didit]

I have placed a nut over broken studs in tight areas and welded within the nut many times without any problems. That doesn't look to be an overly difficult thing to do in this case either.

 

[seagull369]

You could try using a Dremel chucked with one of those PCB carbide burrs/drill bit to bore a hole in the broken piece, then screw a small sheet metal/wood screw in there and pull. Just be careful when using those bits, as they don't tend to tolerate lateral movement well. A small headed regular carbide burr with a 1/8" shaft might also work for u and not be as brittle.

 

[driz]

I finally went digging and found that this is pretty common . According to the videos you can remove the collar easily then pop the retainer bearing and spring out. Then you can get in behind the bottom of the busted bit and force it outwards. At least with the collar off I can lock up that spinning shaft in the vise and not be pounding on things that don’t like lateral loads and beating. [emoji1695][emoji1695][emoji1695][emoji1695][emoji1695][emoji1695]


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[FuzzyTiger]

Have you tried dropping it on some concrete?... That has always worked for me every time I have two things that are just stuck together. Haha.

If you don't want to possibly smash your tool, I think ultimately what you need here is a big sudden impact. Not against something that will absorb some of the energy of the impact like wood, rubber, or plastic. You want something hard that will really rattle stuff around and unbind it so it can be extracted some other way. A carefully applied smack from a solid metal hammer could work? I'd probably smack the side of the chuck rather than the face since you want to rattle it around, not possibly mash it further in.

Otherwise - do you have a drill press? If so, just stick it on the drill press and drill out the center of the bit so the sides crumble in on themselves.

 

[driz]

I got the collar off today while resting between bouts of stripping a plow frame for paint and weld. At least one I can grip tightly that stem without crushing anything or it flopping around. Tomorrow’s the day I think. A sharp punch and maybe there’s enough left to grip. If not a sharp punch might fit through the holes where the retainer bearings were and get [emoji1695]under it.


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