How do I handle a cupped butcherblock

[b-boy]

I have 2 - 60"x39" butcher block counter tops that I need to join together to cover a large island area in my garage.

I cut the counter tops and put them on the island. One of the counter tops is a bit cupped. It's about 1/8" off at each end with a hump in the middle.

The island is 10 ft long. I'm trying to do a **** joint using draw bolts and biscuits. The cupping will be a problem unless I can straighten the board out somehow.

Any tricks of the trade out there to mate this wood together? Can I add the biscuits and try to force the 2 sides together with a big sledge?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Bent Handle]

I set up a router jig over a butcher block to flatten it. Same way some guys plane large rough dawn lumber slabs.

Sorry, didn’t read your post very well, this probably isn’t going to help

 

[brianh]

Do you mean the joining edge? if so a straight edge attached and run a saw. Or a router with a good straight bit. I would use a half inch router with a half inch bit myself.

For surfacing the above comments are good

 

[chase237]

Not sure I'm understanding where it's cupping but you may be able to persuade it in the right direction with a series of kerf cuts on the underside of the counter top. Then biscuits or dominoes to hold it.


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[niget2002]

Call a local lumber mill and ask how much they would charge to 4s it.

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[Kginter1976]

The butcher block on our kitchen island cupped after I installed it due to the repeated oiling of the top. Maybe oiling the bottom will bring it back for you?

 

[gnpenning]

A little late, in the future use scarf joints for something like this.


Long hand plane will get you there.

 

[b-boy]

This was a purchased pre-manufactured butcher block. It was cupped right out of the package. Unfortunately, I waited too long to use it, so I can't return it.

I'm attempting an end-to-end **** joint. The cupping is across the 39" side of the board.

The kerf cuts sound kind of promising. Hopefully I can muscle it into place.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Any cabinet shop can run that through their wide sander in two minutes. Cost would be minimal and much easier than planing in your shop.

 

[CTyankee]

However you join them, they're still gonna be cupped no? I'd rip them them down into 3 boards each, plane them flat and join them. 12.5 in. would work with most planners.

 

[orangeblood]

However you join them, they're still gonna be cupped no? I'd rip them them down into 3 boards each, plane them flat and join them. 12.5 in. would work with most planners.

^what he said

 

[Firstram]

However you join them, they're still gonna be cupped no? I'd rip them them down into 3 boards each, plane them flat and join them. 12.5 in. would work with most planners.

This is the best way. x3

 

[FTG-05]

Any cabinet shop can run that through their wide sander in two minutes. Cost would be minimal and much easier than planing in your shop.

I like this answer!

 

[My Old Tools]

Wide belt sander is unlikely to remove cupping. Likewise with a planer if it were wide enough. A jointer is the tool for flattening. Many serious cabinet shops have 16" jointers. Much harder to find a 20".

How thick are they? You may be able to use battens clamped across it to pull the bow out of it. May or may not stay that way.

You might get it out by wetting the concave side, setting it on a flat surface concave side down, with significant weight on it in the sun.

 

[nadogail]

Look for a shop with an "old school" Stroke Sander. I have seen whole table tops sanded with one of those.

 

[cdestuck]

Could you try getting two metal pieces of unisyrut, Place one above and one below edge and bolt these two together to straighten out the cup until you have glued and bolted the two edges together.

 

[b-boy]

Sounds like this will be a lot harder than I thought.

I have 2 pieces of butcher block, so any sanding and planing will required for both pieces. I don't have equipment capable of dealing with wood that size.

I do have some 1/4" steel that will be used as supports for the 12" overhang I'm creating on the cabinets. I may be able to drill that out and use it to coax the wood into plane. I need to get back 1/8".

My last resort is to pony up ~$250 for a new piece of butcher block.

I think I'll take a shot at strong-arming it first, and see how that goes. Worst case, I'll have to buy a new piece. I'm sure I can find some use for the old piece.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

Was it left flat on a table or stacked on another piece when drying? Unless you are in a massive rush, you could probably knock that out in a week with a damp rag and some clamping to strongbacks. Like someone said unistrut.

I just built a coffee table and I induced a 3/16" cup across 24" of 8/4 walnut by not allowing even airflow while drying. I fixed it in 5 days with a damp rag and some oak stickers/clamps.

AND I'm not a wood guru. Don't give up yet.

 

[CarmelitaYoung]

I set up a router jig over a butcher block to flatten it. Same way some guys plane large rough dawn lumber slabs.
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Sorry, didn’t read your post very well, this probably isn’t going to help

I also set up a router jig over a butcher block to flatten it.

 

[wondo]

If you have the bench space place the piece concave side up and wet it then clamp it down and check it the next day. This is how I straighten warped wood doors. If you have a nice sunny day you can put the board on saw horses in direct sunlight convex side up for an hour and it will help but it's less controlled.

If you do go the route of milling the butcher block down make sure you take the same thickness off the top and bottom and you will need to mill the uncupped board down to the same thickness.

As for joining the 2 pieces biscuits are nice for more gluing surface and help in alignment. But I have not had issues with just gluing the edges and using dog bone connectors to tighten the 2 pieces up.

 

[b-boy]

I'm using both biscuits and draw bolts. I've already done a 10ft **** joint on another counter. It came out pretty good. I had a little warping in that as well, but it was easy to manhandle into alignment.

All the counter tops have been stored in a standing position in a temp controlled environment. These are not high-end counter tops. I got them from Lowes. They were very cheap, so I guess a little warping is to be expected.

 

[b-boy]

If you have the bench space place the piece concave side up and wet it then clamp it down and check it the next day. This is how I straighten warped wood doors. If you have a nice sunny day you can put the board on saw horses in direct sunlight convex side up for an hour and it will help but it's less controlled.

I think I will try this.

 

[b-boy]

Unless you are in a massive rush, you could probably knock that out in a week with a damp rag and some clamping to strongbacks. Like someone said unistrut.

I'm doing this right now. Used my 1/4" steel, several clamps, and some wet towels.

Do I keep the towels wet for the duration?

 

[jeepinerdeep]

I'm doing this right now. Used my 1/4" steel, several clamps, and some wet towels.

Do I keep the towels wet for the duration?

I just wiped the surface a few times a day. I didn't leave anything lay on it.

 

[My Old Tools]

Careful using steel battens with wet. You could end up with some nasty rust stains.

 

[b-boy]

Careful using steel battens with wet. You could end up with some nasty rust stains.

They're powder coated.

 

[b-boy]

Just like to thank everyone for the feedback. I was able to substantially 'uncup' the piece of butcher block using a combination of wetting and some very heavy weights. It was enough to allow me to **** join both pieces. It's not perfect, but it worked and looks good.

I just finished the 4th coat of poly yesterday.