How Do I Level This Out?

[M1N1ON]

I recently built a table to mount my table saw and router table. I am getting close to completing it but need to devise a way to level out the router and table saw and make it flush with the table. I purposely built the "shelf" to sit 2" lower than the top of the table. Anyone got any ideas? The table saw sits a good 6" lower than the router table but ill deal with that later.

 

[squeekers568]

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[squeekers568]

Just an idea

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[M1N1ON]

Just an idea

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yup, thats where i got the idea from. My problem now is figuring out a way to get the units completely level and flush with the table.

 

[The Cobbler]

wood shims

 

[squeekers568]

I would say ad shims or wood under it but that doesn't seem super safe to could do that just add an outer peice to to lock the router in place

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[squeekers568]

Or if there's mouting holes in the feet of the router add some additional wood and maybe a carriage bolt on the feet

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[1969]

Are you saying you don't know how to raise the router table to be on the same plane as the mfd?

 

[squeekers568]

Way off topic I'm looking for a new drill and I was looking at roybi and saw you had that in the picture is it any good? Do you recommend it

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[M1N1ON]

Are you saying you don't know how to raise the router table to be on the same plane as the mfd?

I want it to be perfect. So i was looking at shimming it up with washers. The base has "feet" that have holes in it to bolt to the table. I was planning on building up a base and then shimming it with washers and then bolting it down.

Wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas.

 

[M1N1ON]

Way off topic I'm looking for a new drill and I was looking at roybi and saw you had that in the picture is it any good? Do you recommend it

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I beat it to death and it comes back for more. Granted, its not as good as a (insert high dollar name brand drill here) but for the price point you can't beat it. I like the magnet tray on the top of the battery.

My only gripe with it is no battery indicator and the lights on it don't stay on before/after you pull the trigger, only during.

 

[1969]

Just take a straight edge........ 4' level, place on mdf, bring router table up by using whatever it takes. MDF squares under the corners, thin plywood, hardboard, metal, whatever...... bolt it down. Simple.

 

[squeekers568]

Thanks gonna go pick one up tommorow maybe

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[LXCam]

Get some all thread and fender washers. Nut/washer the bottom shelf and the tool. You'll be able to dial it exactly where you want it and it'll be solid as a rock.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

How about these, then use washers either top or bottom to get it perfect?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9378k17/=117ady9

 

[rsanter]

Get some all thread and fender washers. Nut/washer the bottom shelf and the tool. You'll be able to dial it exactly where you want it and it'll be solid as a rock.

This is what I was going to suggest.
All thread bolted to the shelf below, then use washers and nuts top and bottom.
That way the all thread secures it in place and is used to adjust/level it

Bob

 

[ND80]

go buy a stick of 3/8 or better yet 1/2 threaded rod.
Put a 4 inch piece at each corner.
the nut and washer on bottom and same on the top.

 

[jdieter]

another thought is to bolt a couple of pieces of angle or wood to the tops of the saw and router long enough to span the openings, maybe with homemade j-bolts, set them in the postions and shim underneath the mounting feet.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What does the underside of the router table look like ? If the 2 bottom side edges are parallel to the top of the router table, simply glue and screw a couple of 2x4 to plywood top along the cut out sides and spaced into the opening. The router table will rest an these and not your shelf. Obviously some adjustment will be required.

 

[brownbagg]

screw legs under your table saw

 

[ovrrdrive]

I'd probably build a shelf like in the example and permanently mount it to the table, like in the example. If you want flexibility buy some of these and you'll be able to tweak it to where you want:

http://amzn.com/B0086AEU0C

 

[PugetDude]

With the router table lowered, carefully measure the distance between the top of the mdf and the saw table at each corner- use a combination square (good) a caliper (better) or a dial caliper (best)

Cut four mounting blocks to go under the corners; make sure they are the right thickness for each position. (You can make them a few thou under if you want to shim to final position.) Beer cans make excellent .004" shims.
When everything is perfect, mark, drill and re-install. Shim again if necessary.

A stack of flat washers is too coarse to level out the top, you'd be working with .100"-.125" increments.

 

[M1N1ON]

I'd probably build a shelf like in the example and permanently mount it to the table, like in the example. If you want flexibility buy some of these and you'll be able to tweak it to where you want:

http://amzn.com/B0086AEU0C

ah this is gold.

 

[manwithtools]

ah this is gold.

Yea, they are yellow chromate which looks gold and at the price they are asking for them they might just be made of gold...

For a project like yours that can have permanent fastening I'd recommend the all-thread + nut's and washers approach. Much less expensive, can do all four corners for the price of one of those swivel feet.

If you have to have those style feet try McMaster.com

 

[ovrrdrive]

I didn't even look at the price on those... I bought 4 of them about a month ago for $8.51 each. They must be having a shortage on them now or something. I'd definitely order from somewhere else.

 

[MarkG]

I've had a similar set-up for years in my sign shop, but I use the entire 4 x 8 as an outfeed table. Luckily, I have the space.

Just something to consider----make the surface of the saw/router table just a 'bit' higher than the outfeed table surface. Wood---even planed and 'perfect'----often seems to want to dip or sag, etc. at the leading edge going across a saw, router table, etc. for whatever reason, and if you have stuff set up 'perfectly level and even', it will snag on the leading edge outfeed table driving you nuts and slowing progress in short order! It will not affect the operation or results of your job at all if it's set down a bit.

 

[DanarchyCustoms]

If there are holes in the feet of the router table, then make some shims out of some soft wood just a tad oversize. Drill out the shims, insert under the feet and put in your bolt. Now tighten your bolt down until the table is flush.

 

[M1N1ON]

Yea, they are yellow chromate which looks gold and at the price they are asking for them they might just be made of gold...

For a project like yours that can have permanent fastening I'd recommend the all-thread + nut's and washers approach. Much less expensive, can do all four corners for the price of one of those swivel feet.

If you have to have those style feet try McMaster.com

I didn't even look at the price on those... I bought 4 of them about a month ago for $8.51 each. They must be having a shortage on them now or something. I'd definitely order from somewhere else.

I ended up finding a set of 4 on amazon for $10. I bought two sets so i could do both the router table and the table saw. Ill post pictures when finished.