How do I make this slot wider?

[Ak Jim]

So I made a frame that I’m going to slide a clear piece of plastic in. I measured and thought I was good to go. Assembled the frame and went to test fit the plastic and the slot is too narrow. Yes I should have checked it prior to putting it together but that ship has sailed. Need to remove from one side only, about 1/32” or so. I could glue a piece of sandpaper to a narrow piece of wood and sand like crazy but I have 16 linear feet so I’m wondering if there is a better way. Thx.

 

[Kscardsfan]

A steady hand and a good router is all I can come up with.

 

[Tools4Me]

Can you reduce the thickness of your clear plastic sheet along the edge that will be traveling in the tight channel? Likely easier than trying to widen a slot after it's installed.

 

[Meursault74]

side rabbet plane or chisel or router or rotary tool.

 

[bubinga]

Yes a router with a rabbit fit and a real sharp chisel to clean the corners up.

 

[gloy]

If the depth of cut is sufficient, the oscillating multitool is your friend here. Clamp a guide board in place to control the exact location of the cut and plunge in.

 

[bubinga]

Can you reduce the thickness of your clear plastic sheet along the edge that will be traveling in the tight channel? Likely easier than trying to widen a slot after it's installed.

If you have a joiner or a table saw you should be able to reduce the width of your plastic.
Plexiglass machines nicely on a joiner.

 

[timgunn1962]

Bearing-guided t-slot cutter in a router? Something along the lines of:

DingGreat 2Pcs 6mm Shank Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router Bit, T-Track Slotting Wood Milling Cutter Woodworking Tool : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

DingGreat 2Pcs 6mm Shank Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router Bit, T-Track Slotting Wood Milling Cutter Woodworking Tool : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

www.amazon.co.uk

There seems to be some confusion about what constitutes a top-bearing and what constitutes a bottom-bearing, so the link is only to illustrate the "sort" of thing I'd use.

If, like me, you already have an assortment of 1/4" bearings, you could get a little more slot depth with a 1/2" OD bearing.

With the shank-mounted bearing, you can run the router on the front face of the frame and avoid some of the fiddly stuff: I can't tell whether you'll still have corners to deal with at the far (out-of-focus) end of the second photo, but it looks likely.

 

[acer66]

Looks like its glued but if working with the plexi is to involved I would use a pull saw etc to cut the piece of wood off and widen the slot then.

 

[PCustoms]

Cut 90 degrees to the slot, remove the square piece.

Put the Plexi in.

Glue/screw square back in.

 

[PCustoms]

Or scrap it and start over.

 

[lardy1]

A laminate trim router base might fit in there. You'd have to devise a guide (maybe clamp a block on the router base as a fence) and do the ends by hand. A steady hand with a good dovetail saw or a fine pull saw.

 

[shawhite]

As listed above a t slot bit on a trim router would make short work of widening that slot

 

[KenB]

Cutoff tool with a saw blade. Make a simple fixture for it to ride along the slot.

Ken

 

[WisJim]

As mentioned above, a side rabbet plane is the tool made specifically to do this. Stanley made at least 3 versions and other companies did also.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

So I made a frame that I’m going to slide a clear piece of plastic in. I measured and thought I was good to go. Assembled the frame and went to test fit the plastic and the slot is too narrow. Yes I should have checked it prior to putting it together but that ship has sailed. Need to remove from one side only, about 1/32” or so. I could glue a piece of sandpaper to a narrow piece of wood and sand like crazy but I have 16 linear feet so I’m wondering if there is a better way. Thx.

do you have an oscillating multitool? You could possibly use double sided tape to stick sandpaper to a worn out sawblade (or scraper, etc.) and work your way along that groove. Maybe figure out a way to depth-stop the blade with a popsicle stick, or similar.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

As mentioned above, a side rabbet plane is the tool made specifically to do this. Stanley made at least 3 versions and other companies did also.

I have a Stanley 55 plane with all the various blades. That might work for most of the length. Not sure about the ends.

 

[RTM]

I was gonna recommend a side rabbet also, but your slot may be too thin to get it in? And I doubt you will find one easily in your location. The retail option I know of may be even thicker.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/joinery/60012-veritas-side-rabbet-plane?item=05P4401

The 99 and 98 in the opposite hand are one vintage version

Stanley No. 99 Side Rabbet Plane - Handplane Central

Manufactured: 1897 to 1942 Length: 4 inches Blade Width: 1/2 inch Construction: Cast iron & rosewood knob Finish: Nickel plated Features: Reversible nose piece Uses: Left hand edge trimming Average Dealer Price: $50 to $125 Average eBay Price: $60 to $110 Other Notes: Identical to...Continue...

www.handplane.com

the 79 combined both hands in one

The Superior Works: Stanley Blood and Gore Planes #71 - #87

 

[tarbellb]

Assuming its glued and screwed already and you CANT disassemble....


Run a trim router with edge guide in the gaps between verticals +
Hand chisel or multi-tool out the areas where the router base wont fit.

---
Or multi-tool the whole thing but time consuming and accuracy will suffer.
---
Or reduce the acrylic sheet thickness where it slides

 

[tarbellb]

In the future you can purchase premade track for this, not much money, better sliding action + reduces
this kind of ****.

 

[LeonardY]

1/32 inch is really small.

Is the slot for? Another words, what goes in the slot? Can you just modify the part that fits into it. That would be way easier if you haven't made it yet.

It will be tough fit a router against that.

 

[dnschmidt]

If you try to do this freehand I guarantee you you'll **** it up. The best bet is to temporarily double back tape a guide on the right side of the slot and use a pattern following bit. THESE ARE THE ONES WITH THE BEARING ON THE TOP OF THE CUTTER. and go from the bottom up (as that's the correct rotation) with the top bearing against the guide which will be a 1/4-1/2" strip of wood. A cordless trim router would be my choice for this job as I have two of them. But a corded model can be used but often the cord will work against you so you must take that into account.

 

[The Cobbler]

how long is the part? I would look at ripping through the dado with a table saw, cut a measured shim & put it all back together

 

[LeonardY]

how long is the part?

I could glue a piece of sandpaper to a narrow piece of wood and sand like crazy but I have 16 linear feet so I’m wondering if there is a better way.

Looks like it was glues together with Gorilla glue.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If you have a router or circular saw with an edge guide would make quick work where there is room for the tool.
File, knife or chisel near the corners.

 

[Ak Jim]

Yes screwed and gorrila glued together. Thx for the suggestion for the side rabbit plane, I can work the corners with a chisel. I think I'll give that a try. The plastic is a thin double layer piece made for green houses so I really can't make it thinner. FYI the project is a solar water heater to heat water for the green house. The temp from our well is in the low 40s.

 

[shawhite]

Yes screwed and gorrila glued together. Thx for the suggestion for the side rabbit plane, I can work the corners with a chisel. I think I'll give that a try. The plastic is a thin double layer piece made for green houses so I really can't make it thinner. FYI the project is a solar water heater to heat water for the green house. The temp from our well is in the low 40s.

Do you not have a router? A slot bit would make this project super easy and clean. Use them all the time to make tongue and groove which is basically what you are doing is making a groove.

Woodworkers Choice 5370 1/8'' Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router

Woodworkers Choice 5370 1/8' Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router Bit (1/4' Shank)

www.routerbitworld.com

 

[Ak Jim]

Do you not have a router? A slot bit would make this project super easy and clean. Use them all the time to make tongue and groove which is basically what you are doing is making a groove.

Woodworkers Choice 5370 1/8'' Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router

Woodworkers Choice 5370 1/8' Top Bearing Slot Cutter Router Bit (1/4' Shank)

www.routerbitworld.com

I do have a router. I’ll take a look at doing this.

 

[shawhite]

What is the width and depth of the needed slot? A trim router would be easier to manage but it can be done with a full size just practice on a scrap piece of wood first.

 

[Ak Jim]

What is the width and depth of the needed slot? A trim router would be easier to manage but it can be done with a full size just practice on a scrap piece of wood first.

The slot is 1/2” deep and correctly .218” and needs to be .240” but .250” would also be ok. I originally said needs to be 1/32 wider but probably 1/16 is more accurate.

 

[shawhite]

This is the bit I would use. From setup to complete in 5 min or less.

https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/slot-undercut-bits/products/3110b

Amazon.com

 

[BukitCase]

The bit shawhite linked to should be perfect for what you need; I would set bit depth (with the router horizontal) so when the router base is against the outside of your grooved board, the far end of the bit is perfectly even with the INSIDE edge of the existing groove - hopefully your router has an adjustable edge guide, THAT should be adjusted to ride on the corner of the grooved board, so that the bit's cut depth is same as the bottom of the existing groove - from what i see in the pics, there should be NOTHING in the way of just running the router full length while resting on its edge guide.

Dunno what router you have, but the edge guide probably came with it and should look like one of these

Google Search

... Steve

 

[Forgottonia]

1/32 isn't much. You don't need to get too fancy. You could probably use sandpaper, maybe wrapped around a small block. Also, you might try putting a bit of spray silicone lubricant on the edges of your clear plastic sheet when you slide it in.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

I just saw this post while searching. So what did you end up doing?

 

[Skiff Builder]

So I made a frame that I’m going to slide a clear piece of plastic in. I measured and thought I was good to go. Assembled the frame and went to test fit the plastic and the slot is too narrow. Yes I should have checked it prior to putting it together but that ship has sailed. Need to remove from one side only, about 1/32” or so. I could glue a piece of sandpaper to a narrow piece of wood and sand like crazy but I have 16 linear feet so I’m wondering if there is a better way. Thx.

Simply need a top bearing slot cutter router bit. Amazon for about $15. Chisel for the corners.

 

[Ak Jim]

I just saw this post while searching. So what did you end up doing?

I got a side rabbit plane, sorry not sure if the spelling is correct. It is a modern copy of an old Stanley model. It was ok out of the boxbut I took it to a machine shop to true up/remove some of the bottom edge. Worked very well. Used a chisel to finish off the corners. I’ll post a picture later today when I get back to the house.

 

[Ak Jim]

Here is what I used to widen the slot. I think I learned my lesson to double check things before I glue it together!

 

[mogandave]

Here is what I used to widen the slot. I think I learned my lesson to double check things before I glue it together!

That's pretty slick, what did it set you back?

No pics of the water heater?

 

[Ak Jim]

Sorry don’t remember the price. Here is a picture just prior to putting the clear plastic panel in place.
This is elevated because we just finished running the tubing. Here in Fairbanks the optimum angle for a solar collector is 47° and that’s about the angle of this when it’s not being propped up working g on it.

 

[Ak Jim]

Here is a link to the one I bought to do this project.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx