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How do I measure for these?

GirlnAgarage

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I'm building a wall mounted workbench. I have hit a hurdle in figuring out the proper method to measure for cuts on the diagonal leg supports. Can anyone lend some instruction please?

Thanks


diagonallegpic.jpg
 
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dankeenan

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If you know your angles (with cad you should have those), just measure the short side. By the short side, I mean if you lay your board down you will have a long side and short side because of the angles. Set your saw to the first angle make the cut, measure from the intersection to where you want your other angle and make a mark. Set the saw for the other angle and cut it. You might want to cut a little long, then cut back to your mark. Once you do a couple it will be easier to place your second cut.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Thanks.

Yup you're correct, I've got the angles from the sketchup feature. I'm marking on a template 2x4 before I cut the real deal. For some reason it doesn't look right :headscrat I wonder if I've got a measurement off between my sketch and the real deal.

I was hoping to double check against some sort of technique like "hold the 2x4 in place, mark from this to this, draw this, and those will be your cuts".

I'm going to recheck everything :thumbup:
 

stafford

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The easiest way to do it would be to put some temporary legs under the front supporting the work bench, make sure the top is level. then put the leg in place and scribe it to fit. Can't miss and a lot less figuring going on.
 

Plump

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Do like me and just cut 47 times!

But seriously, great question and what if we don't have CAD. You carpenters out there I know have this answer in your back pocket.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Do like me and just cut 47 times!

But seriously, great question and what if we don't have CAD. You carpenters out there I know have this answer in your back pocket.

:lol_hitti They're probably tired of seeing me run through the front door of the supply store and for once I've actually estimated the proper amt of lumber that I don't have to make an extra trip.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Well I found it. I fell for the oldest misnomer in the book. When I did my sketches I set the 2x4s as actual 2"x4" pieces. That threw my entire setup when I listed the dimensions.

I knew that too :bitchslap Guess I was so excited to get the project started that I overlooked the simple details. Well, now the lengths make sense. I guess the upside is measure "28 times, cut once" may pay off :bounce:
 

Mattlt

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I believe there are markings on a standard framing square for exactly the measurement you're looking for.

I however, am not smart enough to know how to use them!
 

SpeedwayRyan

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The Pythagorean Theorum would technically give you the right measurement. On a right triangle where a and b are the short sides and c is the hypotenuse (the diagonal), a^2 + b^2 = c^2 (^2 = squared). So, you could use the outside measurements and figure it out -- if you're looking to figure out how much lumber you are going to use before you start, this will get you pretty close. This is the same concept as using the "3-4-5" method to square something, because 3^2 + 4^2 = 5^2 (9+16=25), the "classic" right triangle.

However, once you have the lumber, I'd just do as mentioned above -- prop it up and scribe the lumber to fit. Much easier to get a perfect fit that way.
 

mobetta

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a construction master calculator will reveal all you need to know.... but you dont need to spend $50 on this one project. just prop it and scribe it.

a speed sqr will help you, as will an adjustable square. but still easiest to scribe it all.

if you list rise and run, it'll be easy to figure out.

what is the depth off the wall to the front of the rail?

what is the height from the long point of the support to the top of the framing?

do you really want to lop off the points of the support bracket?
 
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Stuart in MN

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The cuts at the upper end are not critical, since they will be hidden underneath the workbench (this is assuming it's fastened through the sides at the upper end into the top supports.)

As mobetta said, I don't know if there's any good reason to lop the points off the ends. I would simply fasten the top frame to the wall and hold it level with whatever's handy. Then slip the leg into the frame, and scribe the angles - first, hold a scrap of 2x4 against the bottom of the leg and against the wall to get that cut line, then trim it off. Once the bottom angle is cut, slip the leg into the frame a second time to get the cut lines for the top. Other than making sure the top frame is level when you do this, no measurements are required.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Thanks for the tips yall. I had the process correct to finding the numbers I needed, but the numbers themselves were wrong. When I rechecked my work with the appropriate dimensions, they checked out. It was nice to find out I wasn't crazy and I did actually learn some math all those years of school. For a bit I was wondering when a straight line stopped being 180*. Kind of like when they said Pluto was no longer a planet.

I've got the frames built and mounted to the wall. I'll be cutting the angles on the legs and installing once I finish this plate of leftover ribs. I went with that flat notch on the legs mainly because I liked the way it sat flat. I'm installing this in my workroom with molding strips running along the entire room. For whatever reason I thought that 90* support would be easier on the molding and wall than a pointy angle. Don't know if that's the case but just the way my mind thought about it.
 

mobetta

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another quick way is to use a sheet of plywood, etc for a jig. it has to be square on 2 sides- like factory edges, at 90*. measure down one leg your rise, the other side measure your run. set 2x4 on top of plywood, hold to marks,then draw a line on the 2x4 from the bottom side of the plywood. doing this would allow you to move the support around until you get the right dog ears you want.

poor resemblance, but the angled bit would be your support, top left corner must be 90*-
_____
| / |
| / |
|/ |
|____|
squaring off the bottom end and setting it on a 2x ledger screwed to the wall would help with the strength, especially if the walls are finished so that you cant just sister em to a stud. do make sure they land on a stud, or they could push back and thru sheetrock.
 
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Kevin54

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The easiest way to do it would be to put some temporary legs under the front supporting the work bench, make sure the top is level. then put the leg in place and scribe it to fit. Can't miss and a lot less figuring going on.

That's the way I did mine. I used some clamps, some 2x's, leveled the bench, then cut a 2x short, scribed a template out, test fit, then cut the rest. Pretty much foolproof. Using CAD it works fine in the perfect world, but with variables in the construction world,(warped lumber, minor variances in thickness, etc) it's best to make a template.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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:thumbup: Looks good!

Either you have a carpeted garage, or this workbench is in the house. ;)

Thanks Stuart. You are correct on the workbench location being in the house. Its in my work room.



Your supports do line up with the studs don't they?

Yes, the supports line up with the studs. Which is why the inside frame braces on the long bench are wonked up spacing. I might fill them in with joist hangers in order to further support the table top. But might not need to. I'll be using 3/4" at minimum and I'm not doing any pounding.


That's the way I did mine. I used some clamps, some 2x's, leveled the bench, then cut a 2x short, scribed a template out, test fit, then cut the rest. Pretty much foolproof. Using CAD it works fine in the perfect world, but with variables in the construction world,(warped lumber, minor variances in thickness, etc) it's best to make a template.

Definitely right about that.

Temp support
Workbench3.jpg


Template
legtemplate.jpg
 
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scott37300

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Looks good.

I know you have it done already but some tips I use for anyone else that runs into the same problems or doesn't have a cad program.

The easiest way is to scribe, no measuring really. Once the bench frame is in place, tae a 2x4 longer than what you will need and set it in place temporarely. Then take another short peice of 2x4 and set the 2x side against the drywall, so it sticks out from the wall 3 1/2". Then you should be able to scribe a cut line on your 2x4 support that will be the same angle as the wall. Hopefully this makes sense, it's actually really easy once you do it a couple times.

Another trick is to us a peice of string if you need measurements. If you need to know the length of the 2x4 you can stretch a peice of string from one corner to the other and get a pretty accurate measurement as long as you know where your corners need to be.

One other one that has worked for me is to take two 2x4s just shorter than what I need and clamp them together and cut trial angles, trying to get them pretty close. Then set in place and you can unclamp and extend the 2x4s as need until you get the angles and length right. Then you have all your measurements. The only down side is these will be sacrificial 2x4s but I usually have many scraps laying around and will continue using until they are no longer useful.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Looks good.

I know you have it done already but some tips I use for anyone else that runs into the same problems or doesn't have a cad program.

The easiest way is to scribe, no measuring really. Once the bench frame is in place, tae a 2x4 longer than what you will need and set it in place temporarely. Then take another short peice of 2x4 and set the 2x side against the drywall, so it sticks out from the wall 3 1/2". Then you should be able to scribe a cut line on your 2x4 support that will be the same angle as the wall. Hopefully this makes sense, it's actually really easy once you do it a couple times.

Another trick is to us a peice of string if you need measurements. If you need to know the length of the 2x4 you can stretch a peice of string from one corner to the other and get a pretty accurate measurement as long as you know where your corners need to be.

One other one that has worked for me is to take two 2x4s just shorter than what I need and clamp them together and cut trial angles, trying to get them pretty close. Then set in place and you can unclamp and extend the 2x4s as need until you get the angles and length right. Then you have all your measurements. The only down side is these will be sacrificial 2x4s but I usually have many scraps laying around and will continue using until they are no longer useful.

Excellent - thanks Scott :beer:
 
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