How do I prevent welding table corrosion during a long move?

[Lu-Max]

I'm going to be moving from CO to CA in the near future. I will be transporting my BuildPro welding table in the back of an enclosed rental truck, and then it may sit in storage for a 2-6 months depending upon how long it takes to finish remodeling the new house and workshop.

When the table was newly delivered it was covered in some oil-soaked brown paper, and the top was pristine once I removed it and cleaned that oily substance off. I would like to prep the table the same way for the move to CA, keeping it corrosion free even while in storage.

Does anyone know what that paper is called and/or what that sticky oil was that it was coated with? I emailed BuildPro over a week ago, no response. I want to use something that will be fairly easy to clean off (I used rags with acetone last time), definitely not something permanent.

Thanks

 

[zkling]

I'd use some LPS3

 

[nanan00]

We spray down all machined carbon steel surfaces with Zep Iron clad, it holds up well for long term storage.

 

[raddksn]

Amzoil metal protector!

 

[MatBirch]

Cosmoline (sp?)is I think the stuff. Probably a generic name though. CRC makes a version. Called SP-400

 

[kazlx]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CNGsaves]

Cheap *** version . . . . . spray heavy coat of WD-40 then wrap with aluminum foil & tape the seams.

 

[Mazdaratti3]

Zep Linebacker

 

[Krash Kadillak]

Cheap *** version . . . . . spray heavy coat of WD-40 then wrap with aluminum foil & tape the seams.

I would think your ordinary aluminum foil would tear rather easily. You would probably have to put some other layer of stuff on top of the foil.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Wurth Rostoff. I sprayed unfinished steel and cast iron parts on the project car over 12 years ago and they still look brand new.

Tommy

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Hell, unless it's out in the elements I would just grease it with whatever I have. If it gets a little surface rust, just nail it with a flap disk or wire wheel.

 

[Lu-Max]

I read up on CRC SP-400, sounds perfect. Only $16 at Fastenal about 1 mile away and it is in stock. Would prefer Cosmoline, but min order is 3 cans and >$55 plus shipping.

Thanks for the help.

 

[ZRX61]

Boeshield.

 

[Lippyp]

Whatever you use (I would just use whatever grease I had to hand) get a roll of pallet wrap, it's the stuff they use to wrap up loose pallets of stuff with, like giant heavy duty cling film (saran wrap) Sticks to itself and if you put enough layers on at different angle will keep all but the worst water of it. It's tough too. I have a roll my brother-in-law gave me and we used it to wrap all sorts of stuff during our house move.

I would imagine the original brown paper was probably a vapour phase inhibitor product like this http://www.texastechnologies.com/co...vapor-phase-corrosion-inhibitor-vci-paper.htm

 

[mikehaugen]

Perhaps fluid film?

 

[Tawn]

Boeshield T-9 or Corrosion-X.

 

[Chris Stapley]

Fluid Film...http://www.fluid-film.com

 

[theoldwizard1]

Almost any oil product will work as long as it does not evaporate.

Spray. Cover with kraft paper. Spray until paper is wet. Cover with plastic.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[vankaye]

boeshield t-9 or corrosion-x.

+1000

 

[GarageWarrior]

Don't waste your money on Boeshield T-9, Corrosion X or WD-40 - they perform poorly


CRC HD, Kroil T40, Fluid Film work a lot better for corrosion protection


See this thread for details on long term testing:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266327

 

[Lu-Max]

Here's my plan: Clean the table with acetone, spray Fluid Film onto it, place thin craft paper (the non-acidic type used in poster framing) on top of it, then saturate the craft paper with more Fluid Film. I can pick up Fluid Film about 6 blocks away, I would have to order Boeshield. Then the table will be wrapped in heavy plastic and a sheet of plywood with about 1/2" overlap on the edges will be placed on top. The table came with 4" stubby shipping feet, they will go back onto it for the move. The plywood will be held in place with metal band straps. My buddy is going to 'borrow' a steel hand-strapper from work. This is pretty much how the table was shipped to me and it arrived in flawless condition.

Agree?

Original delivery day: The plywood was trashed but the table was pristine. I plan to pack it the same way, just no bubble wrap.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks GarageWarrior.

Check out the test photos in this LINK

 

[LG63]

Here's my plan: Clean the table with acetone, spray Fluid Film onto it, place thin craft paper (the non-acidic type used in poster framing) on top of it, then saturate the craft paper with more Fluid Film. I can pick up Fluid Film about 6 blocks away, I would have to order Boeshield. Then the table will be wrapped in heavy plastic and a sheet of plywood with about 1/2" overlap on the edges will be placed on top. The table came with 4" stubby shipping feet, they will go back onto it for the move. The plywood will be held in place with metal band straps. My buddy is going to 'borrow' a steel hand-strapper from work. This is pretty much how the table was shipped to me and it arrived in flawless condition.

Agree?

Original delivery day: The plywood was trashed but the table was pristine. I plan to pack it the same way, just no bubble wrap.

I agree with the use of Fluid Film, I use it a lot and like the non toxic aspect. It is kind of weird stuff though, mineral spirits doesn't seem to cut it so I end up using brake clean to remove when it's something I'm going to paint. In your case, just wiping it off should do the trick.

 

[nehog]

Cheap *** version . . . . . spray heavy coat of WD-40 then wrap with aluminum foil & tape the seams.

WD-40 is a water displacer. It is useless as a lubricant or a protector as it will fully volatilize in a short period of time, even that foil and tape won't prevent that.

 

[Screwtape]

This

Hell, unless it's out in the elements I would just grease it with whatever I have. If it gets a little surface rust, just nail it with a flap disk or wire wheel.

Just lube it up, wrap it up, and put it away. It'll be OK.

 

[Lu-Max]

I'll use a wire wheel on the machined surface, but a flap disk? Not on my table.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

What are you going to do when it gets slag or splatter on it?

 

[kazlx]

The tables are nitrided. My table is just ground and wiped with Wd40 and nothing sticks.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

The tables are nitrided. My table is just ground and wiped with Wd40 and nothing sticks.

Gotcha, WD40 is all mine ever saw........the giant ***** my buddy ground into it was preserved nicely!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Cheap *** version . . . . . spray heavy coat of WD-40 then wrap with aluminum foil & tape the seams.

Almost any oil product will work as long as it does not evaporate.

Spray. Cover with kraft paper. Spray until paper is wet. Cover with plastic.

My suggestion is a combination of both.

Spray with WD40, cover with brown wrapping paper and spray again until paper is soaked and wrap with some stretch wrap.

The stretch wrap is cheap enough if you have a Menard's close by. You may use it for other packing if you are moving.

http://www.menards.com/main/home-de...-self-cling-stretch-film/p-1497073-c-7161.htm

 

[Lu-Max]

What are you going to do when it gets slag or splatter on it?

90% of my welding is TIG, i.e. no spatter. I have the non-nitrided top.

I use this table for fixturing, layout, TIG welding, or tacking. Once that's done I usually transfer it to my homemade table for MIG welding. If it has to be precise and MIG welded, I use anti-spatter spray and/or a small welding blanket to keep the table clean. I take very good care of my stuff, and plan to own this table for a very long time. If you've never had a chance to to layout on a fixturing table, it is unbelievably fast, easy*, and precise.

*insert girlfriend joke here

 

[Lu-Max]

I finally got my welding table packed up for my move. After doing a bit more research I decided to go with Fluid Film as the corrosion preventative. I will be moving the table directly into my new workshop when I get out to CA, so I know that it won't get wet or be stored in a humid storage unit. Heading out that way with all of my shop gear in about 12 days.

Before:

I removed the leg braces, the TIG rod storage thing and custom shelves that I made for it, then cleaned it thoroughly so it was clean, dry steel:

I wheeled it outside and sprayed it heavily from 4 angles with Fluid Film, put craft paper on top of that and then sprayed the top of the craft paper until it was pretty well saturated:

I forgot to take a photo of it, but then I put a sheet of heavy plastic on top of the paper. Following that I cut a piece of OSB so it overlapped the edges by ~1/4" and bolted it to the table with stainless bolts:

Finally I removed the legs and connected the caster directly to the table. I will be moving this thing around by myself, so having the casters on it instead of the stubby shipping legs will make moving it much easier. It overlaps my hoist legs so a couple of 2x4's set on top of them protected the underside of the table and the hoist legs from getting damaged:

Now it's all packed up and ready for the big move. And with the OSB top I can set stuff on top of it in the truck and not have to worry about it getting scratched or gouged up.

 

[Jackfre]

I had to store my Unisaw for a couple years. It is an 1948 copy. I had put a lot of work into it however and decided a more permanent cover would be best, due to long term storage in a non climate controlled environment. I had some POR15 left over so I did the whole treatment on the table top. When I took it out of storage a wire wheel took the paint off, with some effort, but the top was in good shape.

Nice job on your table OP

 

[bullnerd]

Nice table and nice job protecting it.
Personally i'd set that thing up as my dining room table just to keep an eye on it until the shop was ready!
Congrats on your move to CA.
Where in CA and what do you do for work? (im curious because I want to move out of NJ)

 

[my58]

What Part of CA you moving to?

 

[Lu-Max]

Santa Rosa.
I guess you could call me a heavy equipment operator.