How do I protect floors/tables from poly stripper?

[b-boy]

I have some really old wood trim that I need to strip and refinish. There is both paint and poly on the trim. I've removed the wood and plan to do this in my barn. I also have to do some in-place stripping on the windows.

I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of how to protect areas around the work area. I have a 3'x12' island I usually work on. It is butcher block and has poly on it.

I assume tarps and blue tape will be eaten by the stripper. I also have several canvas drop clothes I can use.

How do I cover the surface so I don't end up stripping the finish off of the butcher block? I googled this and got about 300 different options, so I'm looking for 301.

 

[PCustoms]

Clear plastic sheathing?

 

[Shiftless]

I suggest covering your nicely finished work table with plywood or OSB.
Some types of chemical strippers give off noxious fumes. If you are using that type, do you have adequate ventilation. Are you working in your home kitchen?

 

[b-boy]

I suggest covering your nicely finished work table with plywood or OSB.
Some types of chemical strippers give off noxious fumes. If you are using that type, do you have adequate ventilation. Are you working in your home kitchen?

Working in my barn.

The OSB is a great idea. I might have enough scraps around to cover the entire work area.

I also have a RustBullet floor covering, so I want to avoid damaging the floor too.

I bought gel to minimize runoff, so hopefully there won't be a lot of stray drips.

 

[Shiftless]

What brand and type of chemical stripper do you plan to use?

 

[b-boy]

Using this - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-1-Quart-Extra-strength-Stripper-Semi-paste/1001079512

I also have some Citrus Strip for paint removal if needed.

 

[txvwnut]

A heat gun and some sort of scraper would be my suggestion. I've used this method many times and while it is time consuming it works and you don't have to worry about getting chemical stripper on anything you don't want it on and don't have to deal with the cleanup.

 

[Shiftless]

A heat gun and some sort of scraper would be my suggestion. I've used this method many times and while it is time consuming it works and you don't have to worry about getting chemical stripper on anything you don't want it on and don't have to deal with the cleanup.

I have used a heat gun in the past and like that technique. But if your trim is complex, it will be more difficult to scrape.
Are you stripping to bare wood and then staining and varnishing? Have you ever done that before with painted trim? I have. It’s is extremely tedious and time consuming.

Be aware of the hazards of the Jasco stripper.

 

[txvwnut]

I have used a heat gun in the past and like that technique. But if your trim is complex, it will be more difficult to scrape.
Are you stripping to bare wood and then staining and varnishing? Have you ever done that before with painted trim? I have. It’s is extremely tedious and time consuming.

Yes and yes, originally stained that had many coats of paint. Stripped back to bare wood then stain finish applied. I have a multi-bladed scraper that I got from Rockler that helps with different profiles.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Spreading out some newspaper is the traditional choice to protect against stripper mess. Assuming you don't get one anymore perhaps one of your neighbors does, or the corner market or convenience store may have a rack with free papers you can use.

 

[jack stand]

No help with the windows, but I'd do the trim outside on saw horses.

 

[b-boy]

Yes - stripping to bare wood, sanding, restaining, and adding poly. I'm trying to get uniformity throughout the house.

The woodwork is original, and about 150 yrs old. The current wood has stain and poly followed by multiple coats of paint, or straight up poly.

There were new windows added several years ago. They are finished with a clear coated pine. The rest of the house is a dark rosewood with a reddish tint. I've spent months getting the correct mix of stains together to duplicate the finish.

The room I'm working on is the only room in the house that has painted woodwork.

Update: Of course, when I pulled off the baseboard in the room, I found a snaggled mess of ancient 2-wire, cloth covered BX electrical cable. Funny thing is, there's no BX coming out of the electrical panel in the basement and there's also no evidence of BX in any of the outlets or light switches. This means that somewhere behind the walls is a junction box (if I'm lucky), or a taped up wad of wires like I found on the 1st floor. Things just got complicated.

 

[Shiftless]

Things just got complicated.

I call it the joys of home ownership. Our house is half that age but at 75 y.o. of course it has many problems not so different than yours. Plumbing, electrical, structural, cosmetic stuff …it will keep you busy as long as you own it.

 

[f121]

I pulled off the baseboard in the room, I found a snaggled mess of ancient 2-wire, cloth covered BX electrical cable. Funny thing is, there's no BX coming out of the electrical panel in the basement and there's also no evidence of BX in any of the outlets or light switches. This means that somewhere behind the walls is a junction box (if I'm lucky), or a taped up wad of wires like I found on the 1st floor. Things just got complicated.

Is it live? If not, pull out what you can then stick the baseboard back on?

 

[Youngandfree]

I have some really old wood trim that I need to strip and refinish. There is both paint and poly on the trim. I've removed the wood and plan to do this in my barn. I also have to do some in-place stripping on the windows.

I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of how to protect areas around the work area. I have a 3'x12' island I usually work on. It is butcher block and has poly on it.

I assume tarps and blue tape will be eaten by the stripper. I also have several canvas drop clothes I can use.

How do I cover the surface so I don't end up stripping the finish off of the butcher block? I googled this and got about 300 different options, so I'm looking for 301.

Why would you think stripper will eat plastic?

 

[b-boy]

Why would you think stripper will eat plastic?

I'm assuming it will. It will eat most types of gloves. Isn't polyurethane a type of plastic?

 

[DGersic]

I have some really old wood trim that I need to strip and refinish. There is both paint and poly on the trim. I've removed the wood and plan to do this in my barn. I also have to do some in-place stripping on the windows.

I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of how to protect areas around the work area. I have a 3'x12' island I usually work on. It is butcher block and has poly on it.

I assume tarps and blue tape will be eaten by the stripper. I also have several canvas drop clothes I can use.

How do I cover the surface so I don't end up stripping the finish off of the butcher block? I googled this and got about 300 different options, so I'm looking for 301.

Find whatever sheets are cheapest and reasonably flat at Lowes, Menards, or Home Depot. Any plywood, OSB, hardboard, particle board, whatever they have. Damaged sheets may be cheaper too, I’ve bought a 4x8 of damaged (one corner) sheetrock for a couple of dollars when I needed a partial sheet to patch an area. Doesn’t have to be thick, even some 1/4” Luan underlay would do the job. Lay the sheets under the area and tape them down. Cover your work bench with the same.

If you’re especially messy, consider a disposable pair of shoes you can easily leave in the dripping area so as not to track stripper on your floor.

 

[b-boy]

Is it live? If not, pull out what you can then stick the baseboard back on?

Unfortunately it's live. I pulled most of it out a few years ago, but I can't get to the stuff behind the walls. Weird thing is, this room was redone at some point. The plaster is gone, walls were moved, and drywall was put up. I don't know why no one addressed to old cable at that time.

 

[Youngandfree]

I'm assuming it will. It will eat most types of gloves. Isn't polyurethane a type of plastic?

Polyurethane isn't a plastic. Polyurethane stripper can be purchased in plastic containers. Citristrip should remove it. Main ingredient in that Jasco is acetone which comes in what? Plastic containers. Yes certain kinds of plastics will be damaged by acetone. But using canvas that may soak through isn't going to be any better is it?

 

[4x4Pete]

Ram board. It's a heavy paper on a roll, used to protect flooring. I found it at a Homer Depot. Cover your table with it and some masking tape to keep it in place, put it in trash once done.

 

[Fixr]

Cardboard refrigerator boxes. Also handy as a very low-profile creeper.

 

[mbryson]

2-3 layers of flattened Amazon boxes would work also. I'd do a damaged OSB/plywood board (whatever you can get a deal on) with Ram board or waste cardboad on top of that. That gives you an OSB/plywood board to store for a future project that your heirs will have to dispose of

 

[b-boy]

Ram board. It's a heavy paper on a roll, used to protect flooring. I found it at a Homer Depot. Cover your table with it and some masking tape to keep it in place, put it in trash once done.

Great idea. I already have some of this. I think a sandwich of wood, paper, and a drop cloth should do the trick. The stuff I'm using is a gel, so it shouldn't be too runny. I will try the citrus strippper first, but I've tried it in the past and it doesn't work nearly as well as the other stuff.

 

[Fixr]

23 posts and nobody's made a comment about Polly being a stripper and asking if she uses glitter? Slipping, GJ. Y'all are slipping and getting soft!

 

[mbryson]

23 posts and nobody's made a comment about Polly being a stripper and asking if she uses glitter? Slipping, GJ. Y'all are slipping and getting soft!

dolla billz

 

[gba2331]

Ask Polly to wear high heels with rubber soles?