how do i put a drain through pavers and block?

[SouthLake]

Need some how-to help...
The overall pitch of the pavers makes water build up between the sitting wall and fire pit when there is heavy rain. It is slow to drain, and will stay pooled while it is raining.

At the paver level, on the wall (red dot), I would like to install a 1" or 3/4" OD metal or plastic pipe out to daylight to act as a channel to give the water someplace to go. I tried using a 14" long 7/8th masonry drill bit but it was stupid idea, cause the bit just went into some unknown place when i went through the block. I could not hold the drill at a shallow enough angle, and it was way too short.

I have a hammer drill, it is not SDS. I would like to avoid buying an SDS hammer drill but i am open to buying whatever i need to accomplish this. (this is GJ after all)

the block is 9" thick plus i gotta deal with the soil grade after the wall. You can see the grade, i need to get a very close, very shallow angle in order to avoid just going into the ground. I think i need like a 3 foot long bit or extension so i can pop out of the soil to daylight, and just slide in a plastic or copper pipe to allow the water a place to go.

any ideas? tools? how the heck do i do this...

 

[PCustoms]

What if you drill through to the ground at like a 30 degree angle, then peel back the sod on the backside, dig it out and fill with crush rock for a simple french drain?

 

[lukedwag]

Dig a hole and drill from the dirt side

 

[SouthLake]

What if you drill through to the ground at like a 30 degree angle, then peel back the sod on the backside, dig it out and fill with crush rock for a simple french drain?

I didnt think of this, could be an option

Dig a hole and drill from the dirt side

I'm afraid if i do it from the other side, i will miss and come out too high or too low... not sure how i will get the hole to center on the corner of the paver and wall when coming at it from the other side

 

[spudley]

How about slightly raising the grade between the FP and bench?

 

[velocipede]

Rent an SDS rotary hammer from the local borg. Probably only take half an hour or less.

 

[strutaeng]

Does the floor slope towards the red dot on the 1st photos?

Sheesh, what did the guy that built this was thinking?

Yes, SDS drill with 12" long bit will take care of this in no time. Probably 1" diameter.

 

[SouthLake]

ok sds with 1" bit i can get that. but the drill body is so bulky i wont be able to get the hole on a shallow enough angle? unless i try from the side the grass is on, but im afraid of missing the correct location.

yeah it was kind of dumb, the patio is pitched very well to shed water to the grass, but with the wall being on the outside, he gave no consideration for that.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

you were asking what tool
I drilled through a concrete slab with a diamond hole saw. Used my cordless Festool drill. That hole saw went through the 2+ inches of slab pretty fast. I was done in about 5 minutes after stopping and clearing the dust a few times.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

ok sds with 1" bit i can get that. but the drill body is so bulky i wont be able to get the hole on a shallow enough angle? unless i try from the side the grass is on, but im afraid of missing the correct location.

if you go with a hole saw like my previous post you should be able to get a bit extender. Then take a block of wood and drill a hole through it. Next, take that block of wood and cut an angle on it to help you guide the hole saw. Sort of like an oversized Kreg pocket hole jig..

 

[ford33]

That little 1" pipe will just get clogged with dirt and debris. You will need to clean it frequently.

 

[fourjeepin]

What if you drill through to the ground at like a 30 degree angle, then peel back the sod on the backside, dig it out and fill with crush rock for a simple french drain?

This is what I would do. I have a couple of these at my place. I bury a 5-gallon with a bunch of holes and fill around it with small rocks.

 

[swampdog1950]

What are the wall blocks made of? If not cemented together take apart blocks and cut a slot or however wide section off block in the area of red dot and water should drain thru to grass area. Maybe a masonary brick chisel might work. Maybe just a different option

 

[SouthLake]

if you go with a hole saw like my previous post you should be able to get a bit extender. Then take a block of wood and drill a hole through it. Next, take that block of wood and cut an angle on it to help you guide the hole saw. Sort of like an oversized Kreg pocket hole jig..

masonry hole saw is just a few inches deep, so you just keep pulling it out and clearing it every 2-3 inches? ive never used a masonry hole saw, im assuming this would be used on a regular drill not hammer drill. would it work on a long 2 or 3 foot extension?

thank you for all the ideas guys. The block are sort of triangular shaped concrete forms on their interior, not totally solid. But there is some rebar through them, and concrete poured around them below the grade holding them, and they are glued horizontally.

 

[rayra]

How thick are those pavers? What's underneath them? Does your 'jersey shore' have frost-heave trouble? Here in SoCal I'd say drill a couple 1/8"dia weep holes into the paver joints where the water puddles.

But there, I's say pull those pavers and re-lay them so water doesn't accumulate. OR was the bench build on top of the pavers (which is probably what sunk them / screwed up their angle in the first place)

 

[SouthLake]

How thick are those pavers? What's underneath them? Does your 'jersey shore' have frost-heave trouble? Here in SoCal I'd say drill a couple 1/8"dia weep holes into the paver joints where the water puddles.

But there, I's say pull those pavers and re-lay them so water doesn't accumulate. OR was the bench build on top of the pavers (which is probably what sunk them / screwed up their angle in the first place)

nothing has sank. The block wall is 9" thick. The pavers are prob 4"... Frost line is prob around 2 feet. Everything is where it should be, pitched properly, but i just need to make a path for the water. There is burial block about 2 feet down, then the wall built on top, with concrete around the backside and footing, and some rebar. The installer simply did not think to add a place for the water to go. I thought about doing a bunch of weep holes like you suggested, but I'm afraid the water will just find its way to the burial block, freeze and really make a mess over the years.

 

[kbs2244]

One of the major advantages of pavers is that they can be R&R easily.
I would just remove the ones in the way, put in your drain, and replace with a new slope.
If that is more than you want to tackle it should be a less than a day job for a landscape contractor.

(Weep holes would be an easy and cheap first try. The water will just disperse into the sand base.)

 

[SouthLake]

ffs i cant believe i didnt think of removing the paver. I can get all the room i need by pulling the block near the wall. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[ard]

Lol. I totally assumed the 'floor' was cemented in place. If they are loose, just reset the heights so they drain properly. Totally easy, much much better than drilling holes. IMO