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How do I remove a stuck set screw?

Bricago

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Mar 2, 2013
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I have a Par Aide golf ball washer that I'm restoring. It consists of a cylinder with a lid that closely resembles the lid on a kitchen blender. You put the lid on and insert two set screws on either side of the cylinder, which press against the lid, holding it in place. One of them is stuck.

It's a 1/8" hex screw--about a half inch long. I've stripped it by trying to use a torx bit. I've tried Liquid Wrench, and tapping it to break up the rust. I wouldn't mind destroying it to remove it, but I'd like to keep the threads intact, so I can use a replacement screw.

Images 1 and 2 show the working screw and how it is used to hold the lid.
Images 3 and 4 show the stuck screw. Look closely in photo 4 to see it protruding (it has been powder coated red).

Any advice is appreciated.

Par_Aide_GJ_1.jpg
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metaleltr

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the cool thing about set screws is that they have an indention right in the middle to center a drill bit, dill all the way through with a but much smaller than the screw, step up to the tap drill size for that particular screw, run a tap through to clean out the threads
 

jakemac

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Use a small sized easy-out in the stripped out head. The spirals are left-handed, once it grabs it should spin the insert out.
 

Garage Coffee Roaster

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Very easy...get a set of screw extractors. Normally they require a hole drilled but the stripped out hex head is almost a hole.

Insert the extractor bit that is just a little smaller than the hole, apply pressure, and the reverse threads will bite into the sides and remove the bolt.

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larry_g

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Find the knothead that powder coated it in there and wap him up the side of the head. Then do as the posters in post 2&3 said, drill it out. It looks in picture 4 that the SS will drive on through the hole so if you have any luck the bit will grab and drive it through.

good luck.

lg
no neat sig line
 

tshetter

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I have never had luck with left hand drills and screw extractors.

You boys are lucky.

I fought for two hours today with a 1" hardened plate with grade 8 1/4-20 bolts sheared at the face. I wish a screw extractor kit would have been of any use.
 

G_P

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Drive the set screw forward and through. If you use a screw extractor and it snaps off in there you are going to have one hell of a time getting it out.
 

metaleltr

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I have never had luck with left hand drills and screw extractors.

You boys are lucky.

I fought for two hours today with a 1" hardened plate with grade 8 1/4-20 bolts sheared at the face. I wish a screw extractor kit would have been of any use.

I would have had the mig welder fired up so fast on those, of course it may depend why they sheared off
 
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davethorik

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See if a metric will fit. I have successfully shimmed allen-style fasteners when stripped with a variety of things.
 

bsuf922

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I second seeing if a metric will fit. Make sure it is a little bigger and you can hit it in there with a hammer. That has gotten me out of a lot of binds in tight spaces where drilling was out of the question because of location. Drilling and tapping will also work just make sure you get it right in the center (which being a set screw helps this) as said above. Using the smaller easy outs is always a gamble. Break one of those in there and it will turn a bad day into a worse one. Give the easy out a little pressure if it doesn't come out change strategies.
 
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Bricago

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See if a metric will fit. I have successfully shimmed allen-style fasteners when stripped with a variety of things.

Right. I forgot to mention that I tried a larger metric, but it just won't fit. I also tried shimming the 1/8" allen wrench with tape, but the tape kept bunching up. What have you used successfully to shim it?
 

G_P

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If its protruding is there any way you can grab hold of it with vise grips and turn it out or at least break it free of the powder coating that's locking it in place?
 
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Bricago

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If its protruding is there any way you can grab hold of it with vise grips and turn it out or at least break it free of the powder coating that's locking it in place?

GP,

Unfortunately, it's not protruding enough to get a grip on it. Since it enters at a downward angle, the lower edge of the screw is flush with the side of the interior cylinder wall. The upper edge is only protruding about 3/16".

Also, the screw was stuck in there really tight before I had the powder coating done. It seems like it's rusted in the threads, and there's just no way to get any lubricant in there to loosen it up.
 
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Bricago

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I'm thinking the drill and tap option might be the way to go. I've never tapped a hole, but this seems like the perfect opportunity to give it a try.
 

Steroblan

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Set screws are usually hardended which means drilling will be difficult at best. I would try removing all the powder coat first and also around the screw and then apply enough heat (oxy/acy) to soften the screw before attempting the left hand bit.
 

nicksnothereman

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GP,

Unfortunately, it's not protruding enough to get a grip on it. Since it enters at a downward angle, the lower edge of the screw is flush with the side of the interior cylinder wall. The upper edge is only protruding about 3/16".

Also, the screw was stuck in there really tight before I had the powder coating done. It seems like it's rusted in the threads, and there's just no way to get any lubricant in there to loosen it up.

Heat gun bro.:lol:

You could try going a size up on the torx or using a hex and pushing it out enough to get a pair of needlenose on it. Just kind of hammer it in there and try to thread it out the back.:lol:
 

bsuf922

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May 11, 2014
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Set screws are usually hardended which means drilling will be difficult at best. I would try removing all the powder coat first and also around the screw and then apply enough heat (oxy/acy) to soften the screw before attempting the left hand bit.

Set screws aren't hardened grade 8 at best with all sorts of tips on them. Will have no problem drilling if you take your time and use some lube.
 
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