How do I rewire my Sprunger drill press???

[Just Gary]

I inherited a 14” Sprunger drillpress from my recently deceased Father-in-law.
Its on/off switch looks like a later addition- like an old household unit of unknown origin.

When I flip the switch from “off” to “on”:
-Sometimes the motor starts and runs normally.
-Sometimes the motor “bumps over” about a quarter turn and stops! After doing this several times, the motor feels warm to the touch.

I just installed a new 1/3 HP, 1750 RPM motor (same specs as old motor) and the symptoms didn’t change, so I’m confident the motor itself is good.

Could this be caused by a broken power cord or broken on/off switch? If so, how would you go about replacing it/them?

Wires coming out of the switch to the motor are as follows:
-Thick black
-Thin black
-Green
-Gray

I'm *definitely not* an electrician so any help is appreciated.
Thanks, fellas.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

have you tried bypassing the switch?

 

[BillK]

Wires coming out of the switch to the motor are as follows:
-Thick black
-Thin black
-Green
-Gray

This part is kind of confusing. Normally you will only have three wires. A "hot" a neutral and a ground. Where do each of these wires come from and where does each of them go on the motor ? In particular the "thin black" wire ? Is the double wire coming out of the bottom of the box the power cord ? What does the plug look like ?

Also can you post a picture of the motor plate from the old motor ?

 

[Just Gary]

have you tried bypassing the switch?

I'll try that next.

Where do each of these wires come from and where does each of them go on the motor ? In particular the "thin black" wire ?...

I'll double check the black wires.

… Is the double wire coming out of the bottom of the box the power cord ? What does the plug look like ?

Yes- It's an ordinary three-prong plug.

Also can you post a picture of the motor plate from the old motor ?

Sure- will do that ASAP.

Thanks, wyliesdiesels & BillK.

 

[MFolks]

Shoot pictures/make a diagram of wire locations,when replacing the switch,late FIL used a wall toggle switch,maybe not rated for the motor,causing the contacts to burn/stick together.

 

[SGKent]

does it have a starter capacitor or run capacitor?

 

[BillK]

does it have a starter capacitor or run capacitor?

That type of motor does not use a capacitor it has a separate set of start windings in the commutator.

 

[Just Gary]

...,when replacing the switch,late FIL used a wall toggle switch,maybe not rated for the motor,causing the contacts to burn/stick together.

That's quite possible. He was quite the "shadetree engineer".

Normally you will only have three wires. A "hot" a neutral and a ground. Where do each of these wires come from and where does each of them go on the motor ? In particular the "thin black" wire ? Is the double wire coming out of the bottom of the box the power cord ? What does the plug look like ?...

Upon further investigation, Billk is correct. Only 3 wires enter the motor; black, gray & green.

Black attaches to the #4 stud.
Gray attaches to the #1 stud.
Green attaches to the motor case (ground).

Since the motor does work and turns the correct direction, I think the problem is either in the power cord or in the on/off switch.

I'll bypass the on/off switch tonight (I'll start/stop the motor by plugging & unplugging the cord into the wall).

Does that make sense??

Thanks, guys!

 

[The Cobbler]

I would use a new cord & switch unless you can easily verify the culprit by trial & error .

 

[walta]

I think the wrong type of motor was selected and install in this tool. The motor selected is a split phase motor this type if motor works great on a fan because it takes very little toque to get the fan moving

This tool needs a capacitor start motor like 6k490 it will have the starting toque to get things moving.

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-1-3-HP-Belt-Drive-Motor-6K490

PS for safety the ground wire should go to the switch box and be connected to the box.


Walta

 

[Just Gary]

I would use a new cord & switch unless you can easily verify the culprit by trial & error .

I think the wrong type of motor was selected and install in this tool.......
...PS for safety the ground wire should go to the switch box and be connected to the box.

SUCCESS! The whole thing works great!

I bypassed the switch and it worked great. Then took Cobbler's & walta's advice- tossing out the wiring & switch and installed all new ones from Home Depot.
Also, green ground wires connect the box & switch itself.

BTW, yes, it's possible another type motor might be better for this application. I just got one that matched what my Father-in-Law used. He was a scrounger and probably pulled it from a clothes washer or dryer, or....

Thanks guys!