How do I seal T-111 to prevent rott?

[tomfrazier]

I want to build a basic storage shed and want to use T-111 as the siding. I've noticed that it always rotts on the bottom foot or so after a few years. I'd like to prevent that.

I plan on painting the T-111 and caulking the bottom edge where it meets up to the sub floor but I still see a lot of rot on sheds that have done similar.

Should I soak the bottom 2 feet both sides and edge in something like Thompsons Water Seal and then paint both sides before appling to the studs? Is there a better method? Does latex paint even stick to Thompsons?

Thanks...

 

[FredWanaker]

paint both sides, ends and cuts with multiple coats of paint before installing. Keep as much splash off it as possible. Fill the nail holes with paintable caulk and paint one more time. It will slow rot to about 30 years.

 

[mike93lx]

Thompsons is a waste of money. It is a little bit of wax, nothing more and nothing useful.

LP smartside is a t1-11 panel that is osb and is very durable. It comes preprinted as well.

My last shed was done with it and I never painted. 9 years later and I had no rot at all.

 

[ace10]

Is LP Smartside available in your area?
I think you will find it significantly more resistant to moisture damage.

 

[cos]

Copper naphthenate 2% solvent base if you can find it. Build a tray wide enough to soak bottom 1 inch. Last forever.

 

[nadogail]

Copper naphthenate 2% solvent base if you can find it. Build a tray wide enough to soak bottom 1 inch. Last forever.

It can also be applied with a brush or roller.

 

[dcg9381]

Did you know that you can get a t-111 board in a cement (Jamies Hardie) product? I stopped siding structures with wood years ago. I've watched others spending way too much time as part of the pain "chain gang" hard labor force...

 

[u2slow]

I don't run T111 right to the grade or subfloor because I know it will rot. I always have poured concrete or block for the first 6-16".

Before it deteriorates too bad, you can go over it with tar-paper/house-wrap and metal siding.

 

[Slednut]

I'm thinking gutters would help.

 

[Bert_]

It fails because nobody seals the bottom edge. Water splashes onto the bottom edge and soaks in, causes the paint to fail

 

[captain14]

When I built my shed, I used concrete deck piers and built the platform on them, then did everything else on top of the deck platform.

It’s been almost 30 years without any rot on the T111. Any shed built on concrete will wick the water up.

 

[Adaylate]

Sounds like what you might be seeing is splash from lack of gutters. Regular T1-11 can benefit from good painting and sealing practices mentioned above....and regular maintenance.
Good luck!

 

[jhelrey]

Paint. Vulcan Caulk.

 

[bas157]

Did you know that you can get a t-111 board in a cement (Jamies Hardie) product? I stopped siding structures with wood years ago. I've watched others spending way too much time as part of the pain "chain gang" hard labor force...

This is what I used as well. Just don't use a nail gun along the edges! The stuff doesn't burn either, held a propane torch to for maybe a minute....no damage at all.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Did you know that you can get a t-111 board in a cement (Jamies Hardie) product? I stopped siding structures with wood years ago. I've watched others spending way too much time as part of the pain "chain gang" hard labor force...

JH is a no-brainer!
And yes, it’s worth the extra cost!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Did you know that you can get a t-111 board in a cement (Jamies Hardie) product?

If you want it to last for a long, LONG, time Hardie board is the way to go. Make sure to use hot dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners.

 

[Compressed]

if you seal the bottom of anything and water happens to get behind , it'll have no chance to escape,
Tyvek, Moist Stop and Bitchathane & Zbar, RedGard if you want a sealer for the overlap

 

[BillK]

The main thing is to keep it from getting wet to begin with. I am getting ready to replace the T111 on the "sides" of my 24 x 24 detached garage for the very reason you mention. When I built the garage I ended up with only 8" of overhang on the non gable sides and with no gutters over the years the rain splashing off the ground onto the T111 has done it in. The siding on the front and back which are the gable ends with a lot more overhang still pretty much looks like the day I put it up 35 years ago. It has only been painted once in that time frame. Keeping it dry is the trick to making it last.

I am going to put a couple of good coats of exterior acrylic paint on all of the edges of the new siding before I install it. If I can find something oil based I will use that. I replaced the shingles on the roof last year and when I did I had the truss company make me truss extensions to give me a 24" overhang on the sides so hopefully I will not have the problem again.

My house also has T111 in a couple of areas and it is still in great condition. House was built in 1978 and we have only painted the T111 one time since then. But it also is protected from water splashing up on it during rainstorms.

So basically keep it dry and it will last. Any type of wood will end up rotting if it is always exposed to water.

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

If you paint both sides water will get in and stay in. Used or new motor oil from what i hear works great. Use something oil based on the outside only. If water can’t touch it then it cant rot correct? Go with big overhangs. My dad built a cabin with all that in mint in about 1980-81 and still no rot and it’s not sealed. Leave a painted picnic table out over the winter and the paint peels off in the spring and they rot from the top where it’s painted. If you look at a trailer that has a sealed plywood deck underneath where the water rarely gets it looks like new and the rest will be delaminated

 

[theoldwizard1]

Copper naphthenate 2% solvent base if you can find it. Build a tray wide enough to soak bottom 1 inch. Last forever.

Probably the best solution ! Might require a 24 hour soak.

Second best, understand that rot is inevitable. Cut the T1-11 2' short. Install Z flashing between the 2 pieces. Install that piece with screws. When it does rot, it is easy to replace.

 

[sz0k30]

I would make the bottom 1 foot as a separate piece. Nail that up first, put an "Z" flashing on top of it then put up the upper sheets. When you are done it won't be that noticeable and in the future if that bottom piece does rot, that's all you have to replace.

 

[u2slow]

If you're going to make the lower piece separate with a Z-flashing, do metal down there.

 

[WisJim]

I used T1-11 on the back side of my garage 29 or 30 years ago and used a good quality penetrating stain. I've never refinished it, and have had no rot, although it could use a new coat of stain in spots. It is at least 6" from the ground and the building has 18" overhang and gutters.

 

[Uncle murph]

I want to build a basic storage shed and want to use T-111 as the siding. I've noticed that it always rotts on the bottom foot or so after a few years. I'd like to prevent that.

I plan on painting the T-111 and caulking the bottom edge where it meets up to the sub floor but I still see a lot of rot on sheds that have done similar.

Should I soak the bottom 2 feet both sides and edge in something like Thompsons Water Seal and then paint both sides before appling to the studs? Is there a better method? Does latex paint even stick to Thompsons?

Thanks...

Don’t caulk the bottom,keep the bottom at least 6” above grade,attach a gutter where applicable.

 

[Bretny]

Dont use paint. It will inevitably crack or flake off and theres no re finishing this stuff. Use a quality oil based stain. The refinish process for stain is pressure wash and recoat.

That and gutters.

 

[four4fish]

I realize this is 2 year old postbut I just had a 16x20 shed build with t111. I was going to apply a roofing cement (karnack?) up 12 “ all around the bottom and paint it , kinda like finish board. Has anyone tried it or any rhoughts. Thanks

 

[lund]

It can also be applied with a brush or roller.

Yes, but soaking for a period would be better since you want maximal absorption.

 

[Kpaige]

Don’t get standard t-111 get smart side or something to that effect it will last

 

[mike93lx]

I realize this is 2 year old postbut I just had a 16x20 shed build with t111. I was going to apply a roofing cement (karnack?) up 12 “ all around the bottom and paint it , kinda like finish board. Has anyone tried it or any rhoughts. Thanks

I wouldn't do anything more than the edge with that stuff.

 

[Ak Jim]

I put gutters on my shed so I would I wouldn’t get splash on the walls. Seems to work really well.

 

[LopezBart]

Either gutters and/or significant roof overhang, and maintain a good opaque stain on the t1-11 to protect it from rain and sun.

 

[rayra]

I want to build a basic storage shed and want to use T-111 as the siding. I've noticed that it always rotts on the bottom foot or so after a few years. I'd like to prevent that.

I plan on painting the T-111 and caulking the bottom edge where it meets up to the sub floor but I still see a lot of rot on sheds that have done similar.

Should I soak the bottom 2 feet both sides and edge in something like Thompsons Water Seal and then paint both sides before appling to the studs? Is there a better method? Does latex paint even stick to Thompsons?

Thanks...

That is where you fail, if you mean the bottom edge of the laminated sheet is sitting down on the floor. Wicking will kill that sheet good as fast as anything.