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How do I tap into service disconnect on pole?

Mustang51js

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It's a single phase panel, not 3 phase, the 2 stabs on the right are on the same leg, & the two stabs on the left are on the other leg, it looks like it could accept a 4-pole wide, 2-pole breaker, but that would not do the OP any good.

Isn't that what I said lol
 
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theoldwizard1

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Quad circuit breakers are (2) 1/2 space 2 pole breakers independent of one another.

Now I understand ! It also make sense that they are limited to 50A.


Example

Quad_Breaker_220220_A.jpg
 
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wyliesdiesels

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You need to zoom in and you can see the left two slots are one phase and the right two slots are another. I think the only options with what he has is a 4 pole breaker and have two 100 amp subs, or just add two single pole breakers with two small circuits. Ideally you would want a 100/60 amp tandem breaker but I've never seen one.

Hard to do on my phone but yes you are correct.

My idea doesnt work.

The following is not advice, just my comment.

The pic is right from the panel.

If this was me doing this, I would add 2 single pole breakers. The green is the breaker I already have. The red is the 2 new breakers. Yellow is 2 new wires.

That does not mean you or anyone else should do this.

I think of the 2 yellow wires as "plus 120 volts" and "minus 120 volts" . Between either yellow wire and neutral (or ground) one measures 120 volts. Between the two yellow wires one measures 240 volts.

The service is single phase center tapped. The pole transformer steps down the 30KV or whatever to 240 volts, and the transformer also has a center tap on it.

Good luck, don't call if anything goes wrong. :beer:

Those 2 single pole breakers would need a handle tie...

Well, sure, but the code is a living document. Go back far enough in time and there is all sorts of stuff one can do to "code".

U cant use old NEC codes to do new wiring. The current code would apply...

A quad can have tied breakers and individual breakers. I don't have any idea of a cross fitting breaker for that old panel. But it's already been said that a quad won't come with more than 50 amps on the tied part.

I think the journeymen electricians have left the room and for good reason.

it says to use ITE breakers. IIRCC Murray is the proper replacement breaker for ITE panels.

And the current breaker is a Murray MP-T...

No, your comment was about different phases in a single phase panel.:D

Leg wouldve been the correct term but i knew what he meant...
 
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OP
T

T_R

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Thanks for all the advice everyone.

What I've decided to do is put a single 20 amp breaker in the panel and run 12-2 outdoor direct burial wire to the garage on a single 110 circuit. I only need 110 in the garage. It's less than a 20 foot run from the pole to the corner of the garage. I'm only planning on 6 florescent shop lights, a 1/2 hp door opener and 2-3 outlets. I think this should be ok for my needs now. Does that seem about right? I could always go to 10-2 and a 30 amp breaker if my load seems too high. For the next few years the garage will be mostly used for parking.

I'm not worried about future needs yet. In the few years I am building a new house next to the garage and the pole will be gone, I'm going to get the power company to run direct to the new house from the other pole I have. The house will have a new panel in it and I will run the garage from it at that point.

For reference the pole is just to the right of this pic. I will have the wire go into the garage in the corner by the man door.

For all the negative posters, I've built this garage by myself to this point. I can handle running a few wires without killing anyone. I just needed some advice, thanks to those who gave it.

SAM_1059_zpsoph3c3zz.jpg
 

Mustang51js

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I would do a 30 amp circuit and a small 6 circuit subpanel,put a jumper across the legs so you can use all the spots if needed,just won't have 240 volts. You always use more than planned,like if you get an air compressor and want to grind something. It's only a few extra dollars
 
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OP
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T_R

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I would do a 30 amp circuit and a small 6 circuit subpanel,put a jumper across the legs so you can use all the spots if needed,just won't have 240 volts. You always use more than planned,like if you get an air compressor and want to grind something. It's only a few extra dollars

I'll be doing more in and with the garage in the future for sure. But I need to build a new house first. That will have a nice new panel in it that I will be sure to size it to handle anything I ever want to do in the garage. Eventually this garage will be all finished inside with drywall insulated, heated, lots of outlets, 230 volts for whatever.

But for now I just need a few lights and a door opener.
 

Norcal

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adding one more wire and one more breaker will double your capacity without doubling your cost.

Not in this instance the design of this meter can does not allow that in a code compliant manner.
 
OP
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T_R

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adding one more wire and one more breaker will double your capacity without doubling your cost.

I really don't think I will need anymore capacity than a single 110 20 amp line to the garage for the next few years. When I build the house that will be attached to the garage, I'll upgrade the garage service at that point. The pole and the meter will be gone then, so the garage service is going to have to be redone anyway.

Not in this instance the design of this meter can does not allow that in a code compliant manner.

I'm not sure if adding a breaker to the meter panel and running a single 110 line to the garage would comply with code or not. I do think it will be safe and that's what matters to me.

I'm in a rural Maine, everyone does this sort of thing themselves and no worries about inspections. I called about a permit for my garage and was told keep it 15 feet off your property line and don't worry about it. They had no interest in inspecting anything.
 

theoldwizard1

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I would do a 30 amp circuit and a small 6 circuit subpanel,put a jumper across the legs so you can use all the spots if needed, ...

If you are going to do this, buy a bigger panel (100A; 20-24 circuits) and do NOT jumper the legs. Just use the ones that are hot.

This way, you are ready for upgrading to more power and 240V when it is available/cost feasible.
 

CNGsaves

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^ ^ ^ Plan ahead and do the bare bones (but still Code) portion now that will get you by.

Do not jerry rig it now, that you'll have Re-Jerry rig it later !! :D

+1 for the advice . . . Do It Once, Do It Right.
 
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