How do my tool choices look? [Warning:many pictures]

[keilol]

Hello all,

I'm planning on building a Factory Five Racing GTM in a year or two and have been researching the best tools to buy for it. I've collected a lot of good information from searching around on this forum and compiled a list of the tools I plan to buy. My goal is good quality without totally breaking the bank, so any feedback/suggestions/comments would be appreciated.

Harbor Freight 13-Drawer Industrial Red Cabinet

Harbor Freight 2-Ton Foldable Shop Crane

KnKut 29pc Fractional Jobber Length Drill Bit Set

GearWrench 1/2" 20-250ft/lbs. Torque Wrench

Harbor Freight 2-Ton Low Profile Floor Jack

GearWrench 13pc SAE Ratcheting Wrench Set

GearWrench 12pc Metric Ratcheting Wrench Set

Knipex 4pc High Precision Retaining Snap Ring Plier Set

Harbor Freight 3-Ton Aluminum Jack Stands (x2)

S & G Tool Aid 7pc Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Set

Sunex 29pc 3/8" Metric Master Impact Socket Set

Sunex 25pc 3/8" SAE Master Impact Socket Set

GearWrench 39pc Ratcheting Screwdriver Set

Eastwood Triple Head Tubing Bender

SK Hand Tools 13pc SAE Hex Key Set

SK Hand Tools 9pc Metric Hex Key Set

GearWrench 3/8" Full Polish Flex Head Ratchet

Knipex Long Nose Pliers With Comfort Grip Handle

Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter

T & E Tools High Tension Hack Saw

Stanely FatMax Xtreme Fixed Blade Utility Knife

Air tools that I -might- get, not sure yet:

Kobalt 3.7HP 60-Gallon Air Compressor

Chicago Pneumatic Air Reciprocating Saw Set

AirCat 1/2" 1200K Air Impact Wrench

AirCat 1/2" Composite Reversible Air Drill

AirCat 3/8" Air Ratchet

AirCat Right Angle Die Grinder

Harbor Freight 3/16" Air Riveter

Sorry for the excruciatingly long post, but I figured pictures would help avoid confusion as far as different models/etc go :x

 

[woody 73]

The tools all look very good ,I had to look up your drill bits and they look very nice; I would stay away from the chinese drill bits at this time.

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

I would forgo the gearwrenches and get standard combo wrenches, I've found the 0 degree offset gearwrenches to be less than useful in most situations, flex head solves this problem for me. YMMV of course but I think basic 15 degree offset combo wrenches are the best first choice.

Only other thing I would do is spend some extra for a good US made jack and stands. I'll admit it's probably irrational fear but I hate being beneath something heavy that could kill me supported by some of the cheapest stands available.

Also curious why you have a 1/2" drive impact listed but 3/8" sockets, typo maybe?

 

[keilol]

I would forgo the gearwrenches and get standard combo wrenches, I've found the 0 degree offset gearwrenches to be less than useful in most situations, flex head solves this problem for me. YMMV of course but I think basic 15 degree offset combo wrenches are the best first choice.

Only other thing I would do is spend some extra for a good US made jack and stands. I'll admit it's probably irrational fear but I hate being beneath something heavy that could kill me supported by some of the cheapest stands available.

Also curious why you have a 1/2" drive impact listed but 3/8" sockets, typo maybe?

The aluminum jacks from Harbor Freight are made by US General

I plan on using the sockets on my normal/air ratchet as well, and 3/8" seemed more versatile for having only one set, as from what I've read they can be used by 1/2" and 1/4" tools efficiently through adapters.

 

[Blacknwhitepit]

What, NO SNAP ON???? - How can you be taken seriously???? - Just kidding...

Very wise selection for value on your tools...

My only input is that Aircat impacts do not have a great reputation for holding up. I would go with an IR or Snap on (IR for budget purposes)

JMHO

-BWP

 

[gtivr4]

If you are taking apart a donor, I HIGHLY suggest an impact wrench, preferably air powered, but even a battery powered one would be helpful. I am building a Lotus Seven replica, and it would have been SO much faster to take apart the donor with air tools. Live and learn!

 

[ToolUsingAnimal]

Harbor Freight 2-Ton Foldable Shop Crane

This is a good unit. I had to get one to haul my old Flather lathe around, if it can lift that, it'll be able to lift any racing engine. You may want to change the wheels if you have a floor that's not totally smooth. If I had air, I'd swap the ram with this one to avoid all the pumping:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-air-hydraulic-jack-94562.html

 

[Joe B.]

For the Torque Wrench, I would upgrade to a Precision Instruments model. They really are worth the money if you look around for a good deal. http://www.torqwrench.com/ I suspect you will be torquing down quite a few things with your project.

If you don't have one, pick up either a Knipex Cobra or Aligator pliers. Make sure you get the 12" inch as it provides a lot more leverage than the smaller sized. I use mine quite frequently.

 

[diggerrick]

I'm sure you'll need line wrenches and maybe a good double flaring tool also.

I didn't use my air tools as much as I thought I would when I built my rail from a bare chassis and front end. However, I helped a friend with a fiberglass body kit car once, and I think you'll also need an air saw to cut holes in the body.

You're also likely to need a spring compressor.

You shouldn't have too much fabrication work though. I had to build brackets and supports for EVERYTHING from scratch, and we're not exactly a fab shop. Dad bailed me out big time - so you're likely to also need a very good "technical adviser".

 

[Shadowdog500]

A friend is building one now, and you have to drill and pop rivet a lot of panels onto the frame.

Get a ton of clecos.

You may want to get a rivet spacing tool so the rivets are uniform distance and in a straight row so it dont look like it was just thrown together. You could do this with a tape measure but it is a lot more tedious.

Out of curiosity, what tools do you currently own?

Chris

 

[powertrip]

The aluminum jacks from Harbor Freight are made by US General

I plan on using the sockets on my normal/air ratchet as well, and 3/8" seemed more versatile for having only one set, as from what I've read they can be used by 1/2" and 1/4" tools efficiently through adapters.

US general is not USA made. Also why aluminun jack stands. They are not very large and dont weigh alot. Just get steel. Never understood why a person would get alum ones.

 

[bart1]

I would recommend ESCO jack stands: http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/index.php?cPath=255

Don't know about SK keys, but Bondus or Wera are pretty cheap. If you will using them a ton, it might be worth seeing if you can get some good hex/Torx bit sockets - e.g. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0L9LW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[csmitty]

Atleast get the steel HF jackstands. I have those and they hold my Jeep up just fine, the 6T ones. Mainly for the height.

No way I'd trust HF aluminum unless they listed the grade I verified it with testing.

 

[BQuicksilver]

Where are you? I'd love to follow your GTM build.

The aluminum jack stands are great for track days, but at home I'd just get some cheap steel ones for safety. No reason to waste big $$ on stands.

Knipex is awesome stuff, but those needle nose aren't their best piece.

I have that klein stripper. It is a good unit for it's design, but this style is far superior.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I second the guy who says to get a ton of clecos and riveting tools. Spend the $ there, because that is fab work. Look up spruce aircraft supply to buy riveting equipment.

That gearwrench stuff is all fine. IMO it's the best quality/$$ out there. No need for a spendy torque wrench unless you're an engine builder. I'd get flex head gearwrenches.

I'd save the $$ on all the impact tools since you won't be using them as much on a project like this. If you're stripping a donor, maybe. Put that $$ into riveting equipment and the car itself.

 

[Tatsuya]

I have that jack. Picked it up for $60 with coupon and added the $10 warranty thing. That coupled with the rubber saddle pad which was on sale makes it very hard to beat for the money. So far I love mine.

 

[scott37300]

The aluminum jacks from Harbor Freight are made by US General

Just because US General has "US" in it's name does not mean it is made in the US!!! HF hand tools are made by Pittsburg, they are made overseas.

Just out of curiosity you mind sharing any more of your story? I think it's cool you want to build a factory 5 but most people that are thinking about doing that have at least the basic hand tools already. Not being a jerk or smart azz but just wondering about the project? Or if you're just doing some long term future planning.

 

[91bronc300]

I have both the roller cabinet and the shop crane and they are both good and worth the money. I also have the gearwrench wrenches you show and while they don't have an offset I still find them useful and do use them often. If they will be your only wrenches then get them later, for your first wrenches I would go with standard 12 point combo wrenches with offset like was mentioned. I don't understand aluminum jack stands either and would get steel. Get two pair, one pair of 3 ton and one pair of 6 ton. In some situations you want a jack stand that's a little shorter, other times, a little taller. Get the 6 ton first if you buy one pair first, then another later. It's also pretty easy to fab jack stands from scrap pipe from the local yard that look like this

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21G5QRCLaaL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I wouldn't get that HF floor jack. I gave that one a shot and returned it the next day. Either get an older good floor ******** craigslist or blow $200.00 at an industrial supply.

 

[domain]

Looks like GREAT choices IMO. Great job and good luck on your plans.
I also agree with the Steel jack stands.

 

[Altec]

I would forgo the gearwrenches and get standard combo wrenches, I've found the 0 degree offset gearwrenches to be less than useful in most situations, flex head solves this problem for me. YMMV of course but I think basic 15 degree offset combo wrenches are the best first choice.

I agree. ratchet wrenches (I use Gearwrenches) are handy, but if I was going for a first set of wrenches the combinations have WAY more practicality.

I HIGHLY suggest the air compressor. Although I'd skip the rivet gun, drill and saw.

Rivet pliers work fine. Good work out!

I rarely use a air drill. I always reach for the DeWalt 18V, or the corded drill.

In place of the saw I'd get a straight die grinder with a cut off wheel.

 

[Danglerb]

Do not underestimate the cost of building a project car, and spend your budget before you start. Nothing kills more projects than funds getting tight when you are about 75% done (actually halfway in reality).

Sounds like you have no tools at all right now? Why not hunt a few estate sales etc and buy a nice used box that is already full of tools?

What you have listed would fit in a couple drawers of that big box, and lots of the basic most used tools seem skipped over like standard combo wrenches.

 

[keilol]

Wow, thanks for all the replies guys! Sorry for the late response, I had a mini-emergency suddenly occur.

@diggerrick Yeah, there is a lot less fabrication when it comes to FF cars, so I shouldn't need to worry -too- much.

@Shadowdog500 I already knew about clecos and planned on using them, just didn't put them in my list here because there's no real competitors and therefore no real need for feedback ;p

@powertrip Yeah, I attributed US General to being good quality, seeing as how their cabinet and air compressor are both very nice, but I'm not sure why I assumed it was made in the US, regardless of the name ;x I got the aluminum mainly because of their lower starter point over steel, the GTM is a very low car and it'd add some convinence.

@bart1 I've heard of wera being pretty good - I'll look into them.

@BQuickSilver Yeah...I might skip air tools all together and just improve my overall build more, but I've heard they're really nice for taking apart the donor :s

@scott37300 Not much to share about my story, I've always been interested in cars and was so struck by the GTM's quality/performance for the price, I decided I'd build one. I've never done too much work on my car, but yeah, as you've said this is a long term plan. I'm planning on getting my donor car -soon-, and in combination with the various sources available out there (mainly the internet/ffcars forum) I should be fine with every part of the build sans bodywork, which I'll be learning soon. I've already researched fairly basic things - how to rebuild an engine, how to do wiring, really everything in general. This will be a slow, high-quality, and learning-extensive build.

@domain Thanks for the feedback, guess I'm going to have to be looking for a different jack :x

@Altec I'm somewhat confused, how are normal combination wrenches more practical than riveting combination wrenches save price? Can you elaborate a bit please?

 

[keilol]

Do not underestimate the cost of building a project car, and spend your budget before you start. Nothing kills more projects than funds getting tight when you are about 75% done (actually halfway in reality).

Sounds like you have no tools at all right now? Why not hunt a few estate sales etc and buy a nice used box that is already full of tools?

What you have listed would fit in a couple drawers of that big box, and lots of the basic most used tools seem skipped over like standard combo wrenches.

Yeah, the cost is definitely not to be underestimated. I've already made an extensive spreadsheet (https://spreadsheets0.google.com/sp...8AewEHA&hl=en_US&authkey=CNKWt7UE&pli=1#gid=0) and have had it reviewed by some ffcars members and it seems to be fairly accurate, hopefully accurate enough so that I don't get surprised by randomly going 10k over budget ;o


(Sorry for doublepost, Danglerb replied while I was typing my wall of text!)

 

[Altec]

@Altec I'm somewhat confused, how are normal combination wrenches more practical than riveting combination wrenches save price? Can you elaborate a bit please?

The size of the box end for starters. I've had plenty of cases where I simply can't get them in areas where a normal box end will fit.

Like Zebu said, the zero degree is also a big issue. Flex heads work good, but that is a even bigger wrench, and more money.

A decent set of combinations is the way to go. Then add the ratchets later. Then you'll have four sets of wrenches. Like screwdrivers, you can never have to many!

Edit,

And I hope the emergency wasn't too serious!

 

[keilol]

The emergency wasn't that bad So a flexing, non-ratcheting combination set would be best to start off with, you think?

 

[Altec]

Good to hear!

Sorry, should have specified. No flexy. Just a regular old 15* box end combination is pretty much the standard.

This opinion is based on someone who does a combination (hehe) of regular mechanic work, resto work, hot rodding, and some agricultural work tossed in for flavor!

Another thought that just hit me is that I really don't like tightening things with ratchet wrenches. I don't like putting that much stress on them, and I wouldn't dare use the open end to tighten...

 

[keilol]

Huh, I never thought about tightening with ratchets. That's a very good point, actually. Normal combination wrenches it is, then!

 

[srmofo]

I see a tubing bender but no flaring tool? IMO get a cheaper bender and spend more on the flare tool. The eastwood bender is nice, but it looks to just be a rebranded item. Im sure someone else is making it and it can purchased cheaper elsewhere.

I bought this cheapy as backup or loaner tool http://www.google.com/products/cata...7TYurCsnV0QH37piZCA&sqi=2&ved=0CJoBEPMCMAUAnd I now use it for just about anything 3/16 or 1/4. Its smaller, has no moving parts and get the job done quicker than trying to man handle lines and 2 big handles in a cramped area. you are not gonna bend 3/8 fuel line with it though

here another option
http://www.google.com/products/cata...ei=At77TcmINajZ0QHw9eWyAw&ved=0CJ8BEPMCMAk4Cg

 

[Shadowdog500]

Dont forget that you are going to sell the donor corvette after you pull the engine and suspension, so you will recoup some money there.

If I ever get another flaring tool it will definitely be a rigid.

One random thing that I know you will have is that the oil pressure port on the back left side of the engine will nee to be modified. The design call for you to pull the intake manifold off and bolt it on backwards. When you do this the oil pressure port will be in the way. You will have to machine a new port to bolt onto the engine.

Chris

 

[keilol]

Yeah, I didn't factor in the money from selling out the parts, mainly because I'm unsure of the condition it'll be in.

 

[Jononon]

Worth asking other builders what they needed to do in order to get the panelling to fit. At the very least you'll probably need some straight tin snips.

Fairly trivial issue, but fixed blade utility knives are a pain. You can't slip the knife into your pocket and if (when) you drop it the blade will break. The widely available and dirt cheap locking folders work well.

 

[mbatarga]

For the shop crane, instead of buying new, start shopping on CL. I've seen lots of them go cheap.

 

[keilol]

I'll definitely look into CL for cranes when I'm at the point where I need one. The build takes quite a few hours (400-500?) before you're able to drop the engine in, so I have a lot of time.

Anymore input on air tools? Are they worth it for taking apart a donor/building up a chassis? I don't really like electric tools, but would consider them if they heavily outweigh air in benefits.

 

[scott37300]

I'll definitely look into CL for cranes when I'm at the point where I need one. The build takes quite a few hours (400-500?) before you're able to drop the engine in, so I have a lot of time.

What about pulling your donor engine? Or are you saving that till the end also?

Anymore input on air tools? Are they worth it for taking apart a donor/building up a chassis? I don't really like electric tools, but would consider them if they heavily outweigh air in benefits.

I prefere air over electric for most tools like impacts. But that means a decent compressor also. A compressor will come in handy for many things, it's a must for most garages in my opinion. If you don't have the money for a compressor then my next choice would be cordless 1/2" impact. Air tools aren't a must but they sure do make things easier when needed. Things like cut off tools, drills, impacts, ratchets, etc can mean the difference between a long day or a relatively easy day when certain situations arrise.

 

[keilol]

Somehow pulling out the donor engine completely escaped my thoughts. No idea how. On that topic though, can engines "stay" on cranes for a few days assuming good chains, or is it bad/dangerous?

As far as air tools go, I'm contemplating splurging on the 60gallon 2 stage us general compressor (hopefully when its on sale) from harbor freight, since I've heard great things about it. The one I'm currently looking at has 11.5 SCFM @ 90 psi though, so not bad. I'm still somewhat confused on the tools I need, though. Do I need a 3/8" impact wrench to go with the sockets or will a 1/2" w/ adapter work? I understand the sockets have different strengths for different torques, but would they flat out break? I also looked at some butterfly impacts, they seemed very nice.

 

[Altec]

Got access to a nice sturdy tree? That was how we used to pull boat engines (GM 5.7's). That, and a come along. Lift it, pull the boat forward, and let it down.

 

[scott37300]

Somehow pulling out the donor engine completely escaped my thoughts. No idea how. On that topic though, can engines "stay" on cranes for a few days assuming good chains, or is it bad/dangerous?

As far as air tools go, I'm contemplating splurging on the 60gallon 2 stage us general compressor (hopefully when its on sale) from harbor freight, since I've heard great things about it. The one I'm currently looking at has 11.5 SCFM @ 90 psi though, so not bad. I'm still somewhat confused on the tools I need, though. Do I need a 3/8" impact wrench to go with the sockets or will a 1/2" w/ adapter work? I understand the sockets have different strengths for different torques, but would they flat out break? I also looked at some butterfly impacts, they seemed very nice.

I don't like leaving an engine up in the air for days with that pressure on the hydraulic ram. Not sure if it is bad for it or not but I personally don't do it. I have a couple used tires off the rims that I set down and lower the engine onto it and just keep the chain tight, if that makes sense! So the weight is on the tire but the hoist is still hooked up so the engine won't tip. Or an engine stand.

As for air tools my first purchase would be a good 1/2" impact, an IR231 or HF has one that gets good reviews also, don't remember the brand. You can use an adapter, just get a decent one. Butterflys are nice for tight areas but they aren't a high torque tool. The air tool I use most is 1/2" impact for rusty bolts and things like axle nuts where using a breaker bar would spin the whole works and not loosen the bolt.

 

[keilol]

Alright, thanks for all the advice on how to store the engine (unfortunately I have no strong trees nearby)! Initially, I planned on going with IR, as I've literally never seen a negative review of one, just "well, -this- brand is almost or equally as good", but AirCats had decent reviews and were considerably cheaper. The major air tools I want are impact wrench, butterfly impact, and air ratchet - 1/2", 3/8", & 3/8", respectively - so I'll probably get IR for those and possibly the saw as well, but will probably go AirCat or other, cheaper brands for everything else.

 

[Danglerb]

I've had an engine on a stand and one on the crane for weeks at a time, but good idea to plan on using an H pattern base, not T, engine stand which allows for rotating the block to work on top or bottom. You also might want an engine cradle, like a stand, but close to the ground for moving a block out of the way, under a bench etc.

If you don't want to buy a complete set of used tools, maybe have a mechanic friend go with you to HF and walk down the aisles filling a cart with the literally dozens of items not on your list yet.


Link to the FF GTM site.
http://www.factoryfive.com/

Link to your next best friend.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

[keilol]

I see, I'll look into getting a cradle, as I'll probably have the engine out of the donor for a few months before dropping it into the GTM.

Sadly, I don't have a mechanic friend, although I don't think I need one. By researching on forums/build logs I've been able to compile a fairly good starter list, and hopefully I'll be able to work the kinks out soon enough!

P.S. The GTM's quite a nice looking (and performing!) car, huh?

 

[justanengineer]

I would highly recommend spending the next few years until you get your build started shopping around auctions, estate sales, or even craigslist collecting some decent quality used tools. They dont have to be SO or anything too expensive, but definitely something higher quality than Harbor Freight. Ive seen similar situations happen with people building kit planes, and it rarely ends with a finished project. There is nothing more frustrating than having to do months of work that is often boring and repetitive with chintzy at best tools. If you spend some time shopping around and are good about it, you likely will save money over even HF, and come out with a positive investment in tools rather than buying tools that will only lose value in the long run.

All that being said, good luck with your build.