How do these torque sticks work?

[Jagmandave]

I teach automotive course at the local college, I usually teach a beginning course and I hammer on my students to use the torque wrench, and the proper way to use it. Our torque wrenches are used by so many students that we recalibrate them monthly..... I also hammer on them to release the tension on the wrench once they're done!

I've had them use the click type up till now, but I may start having them use the beam type too, just for the experience.

I'm trying like heck to start them off right, I hope the practice sticks with them.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I teach automotive course at the local college, I usually teach a beginning course and I hammer on my students to use the torque wrench, and the proper way to use it. Our torque wrenches are used by so many students that we recalibrate them monthly..... I also hammer on them to release the tension on the wrench once they're done!

I've had them use the click type up till now, but I may start having them use the beam type too, just for the experience.

I'm trying like heck to start them off right, I hope the practice sticks with them.

Good deal!

My first diesel mechanic's course was rebuilding an engine. I think the course was not so much to learn how to rebuild an engine (which is not that hard) but to do stuff like use torque wrenches properly, get used to looking up the proper information and using it, using re-usability/salvage guidelines, using diagrams, using precision measurement tools, etc, basically getting into good work habits.

 

[Toyota mechanic]

I under torque the wheels with a torque stick; then use a torque wrench when the car is on the ground. I bought sticks you can put sockets on, not the ones with the socket built into it. Never had a problem.

 

[prollie]

A good a time as any to stop "guest lurking" and chip in.

In my personal experience, There are 3-4 reasons torque "sticks" cause bad results, and all of them are basicly user error. This disregards using them with manual tools - torque sticks are specifically designed for impact wrenches.

* Torque sticks come rated for a pre-defined torque range on the gun. Either adjust your gun to go within this range - or better yet, get a gun that has a fixed (appropriate) rating if used very often for the same kind of job (like tyre shop). This way, your collegues can't c*ck up the settings. Check actual torque with calibrator before use. Stick with one supplier/standard, so you know all your sticks are designed for the same gun torque.

* Go easy. The "stick" is just for final torque-down - if you build up massive ammounts of speed and momentum in a heavy-rotor impact gun, its not going to stop exactly when you want it to. When the nut/bolt stops turning - let it be. Don't stick around with your finger on the trigger, waiting to see if it'll start moving again.

* [This is a big one] - NEVER (!) use a torque "stick" when undoing wheelnuts/bolts (or any other nuts/bolts for that matter). You're applying forces and extended impact on it, way beyond what it was designed to work with - and it will either break or stiffen up. You wouldn't use a good ratchet to break free wheelnuts/bolts - same goes for any other tuned, precision tool.

* Accept that torque sticks have, even when used correctly, a limited life cycle. If for a tyre shop, get an easy to use calibrator (that is actually designed for impact wrenches) and check them atleast once a week. Once its done, thats it. Don't keep it around for "backups". My garage used to do this every thursday at the end of the day. Rounded up all the sticks, checked them, toss those that were spent, dispatch replacement order - Delivery monday morning.

Torque sticks, like most other "precision tools" are great stuff, especially for highly repetitive work - but totally pointless unless used correctly.