How do you change your oil?

[FerrariPower]

This is a bit like saying all red cars do this or all blue ones. There are some a vac might not work for, some its the good way to do it, some probably doesn't matter.
Most that are worried about this could likely skip a change or 2 and the car wouldn't know any different and Italian cars are rather rare here.

In this instance I was referring to Mercedes, since that was the OP's vehicle. Failing to pull the drain plugs leaves too much dirt present in the system. Half the reason to remove the oil from the engine is to remove what the oil absorbs in particulates.

I've driven German cars hundreds of thousands of miles before selling them, and never had any internal issues ... because I routinely change my oil at 5k mile intervals.

It's one of the cheapest investments you can make in a vehicle long term. If you're not planning on keeping the car, it doesn't matter how you maintain it.

 

[rayra]

plug, drain. I like getting under the cars once in a while...snoop around, look for issues.

This. It's also when I lube all the fittings.

 

[joel63]

This. It's also when I lube all the fittings.

The way I've always done it.

I need to know if there are any impending issues.

 

[rust in the eye]

Even assuming the tube is positioned at the lowest point in the sump it will cavitate once the oil level is low enough not to cover the entire end of the suction hose so there will still be some remaining. Not the end of the world but a conventional gravity drain from the sump plug will remove more oil. With any method some oil remains but in my book the more refreshed the better off is the engine.
Another reason I prefer conventional methods is you will have an opportunity to see what, if anything, is accumulating at the sump bottom or on a magnetic drain plug and you will be under the car with an opportunity to inspect other things while you're there.
"Good enough for Mercedes"? They are interested in collecting $180 from you for a few minutes work by the shop's "oil change *****" and aren't willing to even lift the car up to do so.
My $.02

 

[pioneer1]

Who takes their car to the stealership to change oil????????????????

I do. From my Chrysler / Dodge dealer. Since I drive about 40k a year, I buy an oil change contact from my dealer. It consist of a # of oil changes for 2 yrs. You can buy them with tire rotations as well, but I just do the oil changes. I get my tires rotated at Discount Tire for free since that's where I buy them from.
The contract is good at any Chrysler Dealer. I have purchased 4, 6, 8, and 16 at a time, of course the more you buy the cost per change goes down. I am still in my 16 (have about 7 left) IIRC the cost was at about 17.00 / change.

I don't know if other dealers offer this. Worth checking into..

 

[ER70S-2]

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Do you always wear a cape when you do oil changes?

 

[Lassen Forge]

Lift it, pull the guards, pull the plug, new crush washer, replace the plug, Do a look-see, replace the guards, swap filters. Set the car down, add oil, check for leaks and sayonara. (Arreviderci if it's an Italian car). The down side is it takes lift space (or space over the lube pit).

Where the oil sucker really shines is being able to pill a dipstick, trup the tube, turn it on, swap filters out (maybe), and go start another car - whereever that car is sitting. That way the "lube tech" can do a number of these $180 oil changes at the same time.

When the pump shuts off you put the 5 quarts of oil in, put the cap on, and shove it out the door. Of course, since the owner doesn't check the dipstick, they don't realize the "lube tech" missed the bottom 2 quarts of oil and you're now way overfilled...

Do the math. Lube guy - $25 an hour (or less). 6 cars an hour doing the above method is a little over $1000 an hour (and that's with a generous 10 minutes a vehicle). Minus $15 in materials for the car - well, you can figure out the profit margin on that tube sucker.

 

[Two Speed]

Even a conventional drain is going to leave some remaining oil. If you lift only the front of the vehicle, whatever is downside of the drain plug is going to remain (ie: my sbc with a drain plug at the side/middle of the sump. Or my ford with the drain plug at the center of the sump.

 

[SP3]

I suspect a good engine will last 250 thou mi using the drain method and 400 thou km with the vacuum system.

I suspect you're spot on.

I have always and will always drain it from the sump plug or (as currently fitted) a Fumoto valve.

 

[Seppala]

I’ve used the vacuum method for the last 15 years and 337,000 miles worth of driving with my 2001 Toyota Camry. Dino oil changed every 4,000 miles. This method works with ease.

 

[nadogail]

I used the local tire dealer advertised cheap oil changes.

When ever they found something they were quick to bring to my attention anything extra they felt they could sell me, I always said "wait until payday". I think they caught on, because the last time I went there they claimed my van was too heavy for the same lift they had been using.

I don't go there any more.

 

[sberry]

There are some good deals. I bet its a bit more than 10 minutes a car.

I don't know if other dealers offer this. Worth checking into..

I agree its worth looking in to. Saves a lot of mess.