To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

How do you clean a bead-blaster part before painting?

twincam00

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
1,026
Location
USA
Hey guys,

I bought a Wilton bullet last year that I am going to restore. I tried using wire wheels in a die grinder to remove all the rust and old paint but it took forever and if you stayed on a spot too long it would take the texture off the metal and youre stuck with a smooth spot. I sort of gave up on the project.

Then I used a bead blaster at school for the first time. Wow what an amazing machine. I plan on using that to clean all the **** off the vice. My question is, after you bead blast a part is has kind of a gray finish on it, I assume you have to clean this before painting? How should I clean the vice before I paint it?

Also, should I prime it before I paint it? or just use the paint?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bondo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
2,550
Location
Greenfield, Maine
Hey guys,

I bought a Wilton bullet last year that I am going to restore. I tried using wire wheels in a die grinder to remove all the rust and old paint but it took forever and if you stayed on a spot too long it would take the texture off the metal and youre stuck with a smooth spot. I sort of gave up on the project.

Then I used a bead blaster at school for the first time. Wow what an amazing machine. I plan on using that to clean all the **** off the vice. My question is, after you bead blast a part is has kind of a gray finish on it, I assume you have to clean this before painting? How should I clean the vice before I paint it?

Also, should I prime it before I paint it? or just use the paint?

Ayuh,... The grey is the natural color of the steel or iron,...

Blow it off with air, or clean it with soap, 'n water, Then blow it off with air...

Paintin' steps depends on the paint yer usin',...
Pick a Manufacturer, 'n product, then use the steps the Manufacturer tells ya to use...
Primer has to be compatible with the top coat, that's why I pick a Manufacturer, 1st...
Which in my case most of the time is Rustoleum...
 

Mr.N

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2005
Messages
2,223
Location
Mpls, MN
Sandblast
Wash with dawn & hot water
rinse with hot water
dry
metal prep
primer
paint
 

BJ42LX

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
2,811
Location
WNY
Also, do your school a favor and clean the grease/dirt off the vise before putting it in the blast cabinet. No sense in adding all that dirt to the media if you don't have to.
 

MFolks

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
1,045
Location
Springfield Mo.
If you want a durable paint finish, bake the dis-assembled vice in an oven at 300-350 F for an hour. First spray the parts,let air dry for at least 1 hour, and then bake. The paint will outgas,so open windows to vent the fumes. I've done this for motorcycle parts with my wife's permission, and our oven has not be damged by paint fume residues for many years.

If possible, suspend the parts to be baked from the oven grill on hooks made from welding rod or wire coat hangers.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

clarkjg33

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
11
I would just go buy an autobody paint cleaner.. Or something like acrysol. A cleaner that will remove and grease or dirt.
 

BlindViper

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
1,307
Location
York, PA
Most brake cleaners have some type of silicone in them, so you'll have issues with fish eyes and adhesion at times.

Guess I got lucky I didn't have any issues when I built the suspension on my truck. My buddy didn't have any issues either, but we use the same cleaner.
 
OP
T

twincam00

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
1,026
Location
USA
Thanks guys, i wasnt sure if there was a residue left after bead blasting or not
 

clarkjg33

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
11
It's not so much residue left over from blasting it but your fingers are naturally oily.. A good cleaner will take out any foreign substance that doesn't mix/adhere with paint.
 

alan camby

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
1,566
Location
South of Indianapolis, Indiana
I use KBS and por-15 coatings a lot. This is from the KBS site

FOR BEST END RESULTS, apply RustSeal to clean dry bare metals with good porous surface profiles such as tightly rusted, sandblasted, or other abraded surfaces to which RustSeal can "bite" into. Newly sandblasted metal surfaces are the ideal choice for direct RustSeal applications as they require little preparation other than blowing off loose dust. Remember to always wear gloves when handling sandblasted items to avoid contaminating the surface with oily fingerprints. Please note that plastic media, bead or soda-blasted treated surfaces do not provide the adequate amount of abrasion needed for direct RustSeal application and do require Step #2 RustBlast for further metal etching. For all other applications, simply follow the KBS 3-Step System below. Always allow products & surfaces to be painted to adjust to room temperature before beginning.
 

alan camby

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
1,566
Location
South of Indianapolis, Indiana
This is from the Por-15 site.

WHAT IS THE “PROPER PREPARATION”?
If you are sandblasting, blow off the lose dust and apply directly over
the surface. On all other bare metal or rusted surfaces use the Marine
Clean and Metal Ready preps for proper adhesion.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom