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How do you level something level?

Kevin54

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When you go to level something, what do you use? And when you use it, have you ever checked it against anything else? The reason I ask is in redoing my garage, I moved all of Gladiator cabinets from one wall to another wall. I used a Bullseye Laser Level (B&D). I measured down from the ceiling, made my mark, set the level at the mark then made a mark at each end. I decided to use the Gladiator mounting tracks, so I set the top of them to the line and fastened them up. After standing on the other side of the garage I looked at them and they looked bowed from one end to the other. I do have a pretty good eye for level and it did not look right. So I got the 6' level out and checked. It is out 3/4" from center to end in a 24' distance. In other words, each end at 12' is dropped 3/4". :tantrum2: I had too many screws in the tracks to move them as there are 8 screws per track and 6 tracks up.
I went to the other wall and set up the laser level and made a couple of marks at the end and at the center where the level was mounted, then checked it against my 6' level and damn if it isn't out on each end. When the laser level is on and you stand 36' away from it across the room, you can actually see the drop on the line. :mad:
In the house garage I have some Gladiators mounted which I remember using the laser level so I checked them and in 12' they are dropped about 5/8" :eek2:
So that B&D piece of poop is headed for the trash.

I would have thought that you could trust a laser level over a standard level all due to the fact that the bubble in the level vial, even if it is between the lines, if it is off just a hair (black one and not a red one) it magnifies over a long distance. That is why I wanted to use a laser level to get the distance all at once. That combined with the fact that I have a bad arm and cannot hold something 6' long and make a mark along that distance.

I also measured down from the ceiling, but I only did it in the middle to get my distance.

So when you guys measure out for stripes, borders, etc, what means do you use for going a long distance? I can't measure from the floor up due to the floor being sloped slightly. Ceiling down would have been best I guess if I had done it all the way, or from foundation blocks up. So have any of you used something like the B&D Bullseye with crappy results?
 
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gearbuilder

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NW Indiana
I use a water level for anything longer than my 6’ level. I made it from a piece of 3/8” clear tubing with colored water.

Jamie
 

kool55

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South Central VA.
Kevin, I would tend to think your laser is bad . We have a bunch of lasers including pipe lasers that get out of calibration. And they are pro quality lasers.
 

Rentawrench

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Holyoke,Ma. USA
Get an Old Fashion String level ,an some string.

Mark out your first point an put a screw in an tie the string, then run it out past the other end you need for cabinets. tape/screw that end level with the string level on it. If itsa block or painted wall an you want a mark use a chalk line as your string,an snap a line.

OR make your self a water level,with a gallon jug an a clear tube.

not sure how your B&D works you put in center of room an shoot againts the wall --is lense damaged ?
 

southpier

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try shooting a point on either end of the wall and snapping a chalk line between them. sounds like you've got a cumulative error. and in the future, just get one or two screws in on either end, and then check again for level. if you start at one end and turn all the screws tight as you go, you're cranking the track either up or down depending on the end you start.
 
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Kevin54

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not sure how your B&D works you put in center of room an shoot againts the wall --is lense damaged ?

The Bullseye level has a self leveling apparatus inside of it. Not sure exactly what it looks like but I'll tear it apart and snap a pic of it. When you pin it to the wall it will teeter back and forth and level itself. A laser line shoots out of both sides of it and down the wall. This thing has been babied since new, never dropped, and always kept in it's case. What the line looks like after I checked it is an upside down "V".

I never even give a water level a thought. I may have to invest in making one as I still have the need for some straight lines around the perimeter.

What I don't know is....is the B&D junk from the store or do they get knocked out of calibration pretty easy? I've never run into this or heard anyone that has. I guess I just need to invest in a better, foolproof method or foolproof level and I guess a water level would be it. I never trusted a standard level with vials due to the fact that it is too easy to make an error over a long distance.

If anyone has a Bullseye, could you check yours against a standard level and see what you get and report it on here. I'm just curious.
 

KCarGuy

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50 miles outside Chicago, illinois
I also Love the "Water Level"...I have a 30' of 1/2" clear tubing that I use.
Water will never lie to you, never need Batteries and doesnt cost you a bundle.

The Lazer levels are cool, but I had borrowed a friends years ago and it was off for some reason...also causing a issue for me.

So...I stick with Simple! Fill a clear hose, Tape each end up and mark. Then snap a line in between. Perfectly level! (once the water line settles)

Good Luck, KC
 

Junkman

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Northeastern CT
I also Love the "Water Level"...I have a 30' of 1/2" clear tubing that I use.
Water will never lie to you, never need Batteries and doesnt cost you a bundle.

The Lazer levels are cool, but I had borrowed a friends years ago and it was off for some reason...also causing a issue for me.

So...I stick with Simple! Fill a clear hose, Tape each end up and mark. Then snap a line in between. Perfectly level! (once the water line settles)

Good Luck, KC


Water levels are subject to friction, and they are a good choice for long distances that don't have to be 100% accurate. When the foundation contractor did my foundation, they used water levels, and it is 3/4" out over 60 feet. I checked with another foundation company, and they told me that they always check the water level with a transit because of the friction issue of water moving in a plastic tube. He did tell me that they now add a couple of drops of dish washing liquid to the water to help with this problem, and that it works to some extent, but not to trust it for long distances.
 
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Kevin54

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Water levels are subject to friction, and they are a good choice for long distances that don't have to be 100% accurate. When the foundation contractor did my foundation, they used water levels, and it is 3/4" out over 60 feet. I checked with another foundation company, and they told me that they always check the water level with a transit because of the friction issue of water moving in a plastic tube. He did tell me that they now add a couple of drops of dish washing liquid to the water to help with this problem, and that it works to some extent, but not to trust it for long distances.

Jeez...it seems that for every good idea there is always something to shoot it down. :(

So in everyones opinion, what would you consider the BEST method that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I don't mind spending some money, but I don't want to piss money away either.

I think maybe too that on some things I get too particular, then get frustrated.
When you work with metal on a daily basis (toolmaker) and you work in tolerances of +/- .0005, straight cuts, etc, then you work with lumber, it gets frustrating, as dimensional lumber is all over the place as far as size accuracy. Then when I look at something, I see that it is not straight, not level, it gets aggravating.
 

logical

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I assume the laser "beam" going out each side has to be somewhat fan shaped to contact the wall. If the guts of the thing are rotated or if for some reason you aren't getting it flat against the wall (bottom gapped away for example), I could see it producing the inverted "V". I see a few with the same "droopy" line issue in amazon reviews.

I've thought about one of the tripod mounted rotating lasers because I have a basement remodel in my future with drop ceiling and other uses for it. I can't say the Bullseye style ones are something I'd ever use. For something like mounting 24' of cabinet hanging track, I'd measure down from ceiling at each end and snap a chalk line....maybe lay the level on the line or first track just to double check but straight is almost more critical than dead level here.
 
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larry_g

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oregon
The way to check you level is to sit it in the middle if the room and make marks on opposing walls. Now move the unit to near one point and set it up so it hits the mark near center. If it is still bisecting the far mark then your good. If not then you have to adjust the head. Being a machinest imagine milling off the end of a rod. If the rod is perpindicular to the spindle then the end of the rod is round. However if you tilt the rod some and then mill it off you have a oval. Now if you have the rod set up straight again one side of the oval is higher than the other. That is the effect that the off tilt laser is giving you. On the better units there is adjustments to the prism that will get the axis of the prism (spindle) in line with the laser (rod). Good luck

lg
no neat sig line
 

Torque1st

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When you work with metal on a daily basis (toolmaker) and you work in tolerances of +/- .0005, straight cuts, etc, then you work with lumber, it gets frustrating, as dimensional lumber is all over the place as far as size accuracy. Then when I look at something, I see that it is not straight, not level, it gets aggravating.

I hear your frustration. I like working with metal and dislike wood for the same reason.

Think about all the stuff the machine tool builders have to go thru to make their machines accurate. :bowdown:

Water levels can be improved with surfactants which is why the dish detergent helps. Clean tubing helps. A little bit of food coloring also helps with contrast. Flicking the tube with a finger will help settle the liquid and eliminate the friction effect. The ends of the tube must be open to eliminate air pressure effects.

That water wetter stuff used in radiators is a surfactant.
 

TONE

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I worked in the sign industry for close to 15 years.

Even though we used many different types of levels, I usually trusted my eyes more than anything.

I dont know how many times we would be out putting a huge sign up and had it dead nuts level. I would go back a distance and look at it to see how "level" it looked.

Alot of times we ended up "un-leveling" signs to cheat the building imperfections.

I wish everything was level, but it isnt. Therfore, its sometimes better to just go with what looks best.

In my garage, the small foundation wall isnt level. Its not supposed to be, its made to slope to drain water out of the garage.

I have cabinets that are level, but to me they look a bit off because of the floor.
 

IDASHO

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Moscow, Idaho
Even though we used many different types of levels, I usually trusted my eyes more than anything.

Bingo.

Level is as level does.

It is all relative, and believe me, NOTHING in your home or shop is 100% level, plumb or square.

Make it LOOK level and all is well. Typically this will involve being parallel to a nearby corner in a wall, the ceiling to wall corner, or the flooring.
 

djjsr

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Sep 4, 2006
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In the cornfields
I had exactly the same problem with my B&D Bullseye. I was hanging a row of pictures and they ended up going downhill.

I think they're built using Chinese gravity.
 

Daedalus

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+1. I wrote a scathing review of it on Amazon. I keep it because it has a built-in stud finder.
 

ddawg16

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The soap really is a good idea.....but I can't imagine the friction...or surface tension to be that big of a problem....I bet you could eliminate it by using a larger hose....say at least 3/4"....the surface area would be much greater than then surface tension (friction). I would also think you could eliminate the error by wetting both ends so that the water does not have to overcome the surface tension.

And to check it....put up 10' pole....make sure it is plumb.....and the plumb line is the one that that is as accurate as you can get....then get out an accurate tape measure....measure from the top of the pole to the far point...and from the base of the pole to the same far point....using your old trig.....if the top distance is correct then you know you have a right triangle at the bottom....if it's off....then your off sligtly......

Math & physics...you have to love em'.....
 

Identaltech

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Dec 20, 2008
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Location
Norwalk Iowa
Just use a spit level.




1. Spit on the top (it shouldn't run off)
2. Spit on the side (it should run down)
3. Make sure it looks good from my house.:lol_hitti
 
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