I have 28 ft trusses and had to cut one for my 2 post lift. Where can I find information on how to re-engineer? I would actually like to do all five trusses that the lift spans if there is any good info out there to explain to the do it yourselfer, if not I just need to fix the one I cut. Any advice? Thanks
How do you re-engineer trusses?
- Thread starter mikec35
- Start date
camarotoolman
Banned
Call the truss manufacturing company.
Hire the Structural Engineer. Same guy told me how to reinforce my second floor 2x4 stud walls to survive a Cat 4 hurricane. He's currently working up how to keep my solar array on the roof in a 150mph wind zone on a house built in 1962.
Despite having passed all the same pre-engineering math & physics courses as the structural engineers, I'm willing to pay his hourly rates for his advice and signed drawings. The building department takes his word and his drawings based on the initials P.E. after his name. I build it per his drawings, they sign off on it after inspection.
Despite having passed all the same pre-engineering math & physics courses as the structural engineers, I'm willing to pay his hourly rates for his advice and signed drawings. The building department takes his word and his drawings based on the initials P.E. after his name. I build it per his drawings, they sign off on it after inspection.
Toomanytools?
Well-known member
Look at this site:
http://www.allpan.com/res/TrussConfigurations.pdf
The last truss might be what you want, or even a cove truss. You should have it engineered, so yo don't have any problems in the future with liability or trying to sell the place. As said you can call a truss company many have a engineer on site that can come out look at it and give you a fix. For a $200-500 fee would be money well spent.
http://www.allpan.com/res/TrussConfigurations.pdf
The last truss might be what you want, or even a cove truss. You should have it engineered, so yo don't have any problems in the future with liability or trying to sell the place. As said you can call a truss company many have a engineer on site that can come out look at it and give you a fix. For a $200-500 fee would be money well spent.
KPSquared
Well-known member
I would seriously consider hiring a structural engineer. Chopping up the wood that holds your roof up is no joke.
wssix99
Well-known member
Call an engineer. BTW - Probably would have been best to do this before you cut the truss!
Colonial Cobra
Well-known member
Do you have a trus plant near you? They can work up the design for you.
Trey T
Well-known member
America has becoming so specialized that if you're to say engineer in this forum, they will spit it right back at you. You're not explaining yourself well. If you want people to support your idea, you gotta provide the support first - explain in detail, as technical as you can.
I don't even understand what type of material are those truss. Are people suppose to assume wood trusses?
6 years, my friend! It's so specialized these days, you need additional two years (Master degree) to be hired a structural engineer.
I don't even understand what type of material are those truss. Are people suppose to assume wood trusses?
6 years, my friend! It's so specialized these days, you need additional two years (Master degree) to be hired a structural engineer.
And a professional license.
SGKent
Banned
If you ever plan to sell the house you will want a permit for that truss cut and that will require plans from an engineer. I drew a bang up job using plywood sister plates etc to transfer the load before I cut a truss, gave it to an engineer and surprise, he gave me back something totally different. He came out to look at the trusses before he did the drawing. What he designed was better than what I had. Cost about $200 to have it done. City wants to see that stamp before they sign off on it.
Last words - if you cut a truss without an engineer looking at it, and as a result something falls and maims or kills someone, or it collapses while a roofer is up there working etc, the County DA can go after you for their injury no different than you were cleaning a gun and it went off accidentally because you didn't know it was loaded. Get the drawing made.
Last words - if you cut a truss without an engineer looking at it, and as a result something falls and maims or kills someone, or it collapses while a roofer is up there working etc, the County DA can go after you for their injury no different than you were cleaning a gun and it went off accidentally because you didn't know it was loaded. Get the drawing made.
KELLHAMMER
Well-known member
On a recent project, we had to make in the field changes to the several roof trusses. The truss company handled everything. They have in-house engineers to design it a crew with field equipment to press the splice plate together in place up in an attic. It was impressive
Ours may have been a much simpler modification but it can be done.
Ours may have been a much simpler modification but it can be done.
coolreed
Well-known member
The key thing about a Truss is triangulation. It would be wise and proper to consult with a Truss Engineer if you can afford it. I think you will be surprised by the simple design solution he/she will come up with.
He/she will create a triangulation based upon your design needs and support each connection a beefier metal suuports.
I designed and built trusses on an outbuilding years ago and they were way overbuilt for the structure. But thats the kind of guy I am.
I really think you can do it if you are the leats bit handy.
Good Luck
He/she will create a triangulation based upon your design needs and support each connection a beefier metal suuports.
I designed and built trusses on an outbuilding years ago and they were way overbuilt for the structure. But thats the kind of guy I am.
I really think you can do it if you are the leats bit handy.
Good Luck
As has been mentioned, if you know of a lumber yard near you that does truss work, go over and visit. I did just that when I did what you are proposing. They had the truss program engineer do a diagram. When it was time to pay, they said just buy the lumber from us and we'll call it even.
Ralph
Ralph
if you were in Canada the only person that can do this is a professional engineer who mus be licenced in the province where the building is located. If you do it yourself or an unlicenced person does it then the person who did the work can be fined for practicing without a licence, your insure is void and whoever has building approval authourity where you live can make you change it and also fine you and this is all assuming no one got hurt.
Exit 61
Well-known member
So glad I'm in north Idaho..... only a building location permit required, build like you want it, if it falls down your problem. mankind has been building without engineers for 1000's of years. I have worked with many engineers through out the years and very few could actually build there way out of a wet paper bag.
Engineer rant over.............................................................
Engineer rant over.............................................................
Thanks for all the replies-I'll have to check the builder stores and see if they can design something for me. If not then I'll call an engineer. The only builder stores local are Home Depot, Lowe's, Builder Way, and 84 Lumber- I'll give them a call.
I don't need no stinkin engineer.
Feel better now? If the OP keeps cutting trusses it will fall down. May fall down because of one cut. Glad you don't have to worry about that since it is "his problem".
If you have advice then you should mention that instead if disparaging engineers. You seem to think you know what to do.
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As a truss designer I'll tell you not to bother calling the local truss plant, unless you know that they built those trusses. I've been told that its a liability issue and I guess a little bit of not wanting to deal with somebody else's product. If you called me I would give you a name of a local engineer, even though we have an engineer on staff.
By the way adding a tray (coffered) ceiling is one of the harder site modifications I've seen. Lots of lumber and plywood and be prepared to do a lot of nailing, in most cases then engineers spec hand driven nails. As they are stronger than air nails, so make sure you ask.
By the way adding a tray (coffered) ceiling is one of the harder site modifications I've seen. Lots of lumber and plywood and be prepared to do a lot of nailing, in most cases then engineers spec hand driven nails. As they are stronger than air nails, so make sure you ask.
Trusses are a engineered product, no way in hell would I go cutting truss chords and webs without the calculations of a qualified engineer, but my preference is a cut roof over trusses.....
The sad thing is that there were 2 truss plants locally, both have since closed.
The sad thing is that there were 2 truss plants locally, both have since closed.
wssix99
Well-known member
Me too, but not the ones who actually practice. A degree isn't enough for this kind of thing. It takes someone who has done the job. (And presumably had all their buildings remain standing under design conditions!)
Yea... but 1000 year ago, many were still living in caves and its only been recently that most houses could withstand a bad storm or heavy snow. Buildings aren't designed to stand up when the sun is shining - they are designed to stand up when weighted down and the wind is blowing.
More Information . . . and Pictures would be helpful.
You in snow country? Is roof already done, or is this newly constructed? What type of roof covering (steel, asphalt, ??)
All this scatter-gram of replies and scare tactics likely overkill for just having to cut one truss. There are methods of re-spreading that load to the other trusses I'm sure without "Hiring A Structural Engineer" . . . I'd recommend making some "mystery shopper" calls to garage builders. This surely can't be first time in history someone had to cut a truss.
My childhood home had low 6 ft ceiling and every single rafter in front 2 rooms of house were cut by my carpenter brother who re-did all the rafters to make a taller sloped ceiling. He did all the work himself with proper bracing and rebuild/end result was better than it was before.
EDIT: See post # 30 for Back-Pedal to side with the Engineer crowd. Sorry but thought guy was only talking about one single truss . . . .rather than a bunch of trusses in a row! Don't cut a bunch of trusses unless you know what that will affect!!
You in snow country? Is roof already done, or is this newly constructed? What type of roof covering (steel, asphalt, ??)
All this scatter-gram of replies and scare tactics likely overkill for just having to cut one truss. There are methods of re-spreading that load to the other trusses I'm sure without "Hiring A Structural Engineer" . . . I'd recommend making some "mystery shopper" calls to garage builders. This surely can't be first time in history someone had to cut a truss.
My childhood home had low 6 ft ceiling and every single rafter in front 2 rooms of house were cut by my carpenter brother who re-did all the rafters to make a taller sloped ceiling. He did all the work himself with proper bracing and rebuild/end result was better than it was before.
EDIT: See post # 30 for Back-Pedal to side with the Engineer crowd. Sorry but thought guy was only talking about one single truss . . . .rather than a bunch of trusses in a row! Don't cut a bunch of trusses unless you know what that will affect!!
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Please do tell how to redistribute the load to other trusses.
justanengineer
Well-known member
I agree, and so does every state in the country which is why in addition to the degree engineers are required licenses which require a minimum level of experience working in a particular field before taking the licensing exams.
Yea, and depending upon where you live you may get away with altering the structure......or you could be found guilty of negligence when it falls on someone or that structure fails in 20 years, have your insurance refuse to cover it after a problem occurs, and/or possibly end up broke financially or dead bc of it. Building codes vary, so does enforcement, but telling advising anyone to ignore them is just plain stupid. If I had a nickel for every idiot with a hammer and a pickup truck claiming to be a professional that seriously screwed up a building's structure I'd be a wealthy person indeed.
Simple rule of thumb - anytime youre tempted to cut structure, whether it be trusses, floor joists, or load bearing wall studs....check the local codes first and then realize these are MINIMUMs. A building's structure is easy/cheap to cut and often difficult/expensive to replace.
Lotek
Well-known member
Going to guess that you weren't dealing with an engineered truss, just 2x6 rafters and stick built construction. Completely different animal.
Not an engineer,(I work for a living)
but when DIYing something like this I check with a pro, no need to reinvent the wheel at best or cause damage at worst.KnurledNut
Well-known member
More info would be helpful.
While modifying trusses does require knowledge and research, it is not impossible nor should it be intimidating. You can do a lot with proper header and gusset locations.
cyamaha2007
Well-known member
Is this a pole barn or stick framed. You could remove the entire truss and do whats called span a bay. So you would remove the middle truss then beef up the trusses on either side. Then you would install a multiple 2x6 vertical (or larger depending on the span between trusses now). The 2x6s would connect to the top cord of the remaining trusses. It would be framed much like a pole barn.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
All the dumping on engineers has moved over to bankers and politicians. Keep your head down ... things might circle back. Enjoy the clean stereotype while you can!
Have to back-pedal a little . . . . I thought the guy was only talking about ONE truss that needed fixed.
If he truly thinks he is going to cut several trusses in a row, then he's back at SQUARE ONE. Need to get the proper truss designed BEFORE he takes the sawzall out there !! Maybe need to put an upright structural post next to lift post and tie in with trusses that way since apparently lift is so tall it's above ceiling.
I'm back with Engineer team when it's over 1 rafter/truss. Get An Expert Opinion (even if it costs you money) before you hack up a bunch of trusses!
If he truly thinks he is going to cut several trusses in a row, then he's back at SQUARE ONE. Need to get the proper truss designed BEFORE he takes the sawzall out there !! Maybe need to put an upright structural post next to lift post and tie in with trusses that way since apparently lift is so tall it's above ceiling.
I'm back with Engineer team when it's over 1 rafter/truss. Get An Expert Opinion (even if it costs you money) before you hack up a bunch of trusses!
onewaydave
Well-known member
DAMN, Ryan might as well shut this whole website thing down. And a hell of a lot of other forums as well. I mean, you (structural) engineers are a touchy bunch and all this time I thought the electricians were the touchy ones. Its a good thing that those of you that are engineers don't have to pass Englicht on the way to your degree.
Dave, who sharpened a pencil with a pocket knife (instead of a state approved, licensed, ILARMFG certified pencil sharpener) once and that pencil wrote a paper that was found and published without his permission and cause irreparable harm to no one, but he was sued anyway and has been a homeless pauper since.
"...Any advice?
Structural Engineering degree takes about 4 - 5 years...
Despite having passed all the same pre-engineering math & physics courses as the structural engineers,...
...You're not explaining yourself well. If you want people to support your idea, you gotta provide the support first - explain in detail, as technical as you can.
...I don't even understand what type of material are those truss. Are people suppose to assume wood trusses?... 6 years, my friend! It's so specialized these days, you need additional two years (Master degree) to be hired a structural engineer.
...And a professional license.
if you were in Canada the only person that can do this is a professional engineer who mus be licenced in the province where the building is located. If you do it yourself or an unlicenced person does it then the person who did the work can be fined for practicing without a licence, your insure is void and whoever has building approval authourity where you live can make you change it and also fine you and this is all assuming no one got hurt.
I don't need no stinkin engineer. Feel better now?
If the OP keeps cutting trusses it will fall down. May fall down because of one cut. Glad you don't have to worry about that since it is "his problem".
If you have advice then you should mention that instead if disparaging engineers."
Dave, who sharpened a pencil with a pocket knife (instead of a state approved, licensed, ILARMFG certified pencil sharpener) once and that pencil wrote a paper that was found and published without his permission and cause irreparable harm to no one, but he was sued anyway and has been a homeless pauper since.
"...Any advice?
Structural Engineering degree takes about 4 - 5 years...
Despite having passed all the same pre-engineering math & physics courses as the structural engineers,...
...You're not explaining yourself well. If you want people to support your idea, you gotta provide the support first - explain in detail, as technical as you can.
...I don't even understand what type of material are those truss. Are people suppose to assume wood trusses?... 6 years, my friend! It's so specialized these days, you need additional two years (Master degree) to be hired a structural engineer.
...And a professional license.
if you were in Canada the only person that can do this is a professional engineer who mus be licenced in the province where the building is located. If you do it yourself or an unlicenced person does it then the person who did the work can be fined for practicing without a licence, your insure is void and whoever has building approval authourity where you live can make you change it and also fine you and this is all assuming no one got hurt.
I don't need no stinkin engineer. Feel better now?
If the OP keeps cutting trusses it will fall down. May fall down because of one cut. Glad you don't have to worry about that since it is "his problem".
If you have advice then you should mention that instead if disparaging engineers."
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KPSquared
Well-known member
What the hell was that? Drunk already?
fury9
Well-known member
well, back to the original topic- here's what you gatta do. Depending on what pitch you have{prolly a 6 taking a wild guess here},look down that truss, on both sides, see where it's sitting on the wall at?That's your bearing point. Well it's complicated, can we get some more info?
1stwarrior95
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2007
- Messages
- 647
Wow, Haven't been here in a while, (but this topic kinda caught my eye since I have a low ceiling in my shop also, and had thought of modifying the center truss).
OMG is about all I can say. Is it even safe to walk to my shop without a engineers approval....?
OMG is about all I can say. Is it even safe to walk to my shop without a engineers approval....?
Yes it has been an interesting thread. Been a few really wrong turns as is typical on this forum lately. I don't understand the quickness to criticize/ridicule those who would only try to help with good advice. Mocking people with ridiculous hyperbole has become all too much the norm here. I really don't understand you are trying to prove with that comment aside from belittling the suggestions others have made.
I try to use this forum as a learning tool but it is sadly become a vehicle for the internet tough guys to dig in their heels and advertise the chip on their shoulders. Civilty is rare anymore. Lock the thread, nothing getting solved here.
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1stwarrior95
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2007
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- 647
What's "hyperbole" mean?
My garage is a stick built unit with engineered 2x4 "W" trusses spanning 28 feet, 2 ft on center. The garage is 32 ft. wide, 28 ft deep. I am in the south, only freak snow storms would be the only reason for weight build up on my roof. I cut the 2nd truss from the end of the building, between the "x"s marked on the picture attached. Thanks
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1stwarrior95
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2007
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Those are the same basic design as my trusses, except mine are 2x6 and 2x8 construction and 30ft span. (Mines a pole building though so mine is 8ft centers)
I haven't cut mine, (because I can't yet afford a lift), but the thought is the same as yours. Hope somebody chimes in with some ideas.
I haven't cut mine, (because I can't yet afford a lift), but the thought is the same as yours. Hope somebody chimes in with some ideas.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
That bottom stringer that you cut is what ties the whole truss together.
It is the main support piece in the whole truss.
Cut one or more trusses like that and you will have the roof down on you fairly quickly.
I'm with the "get a design done" brigade.
It is the main support piece in the whole truss.
Cut one or more trusses like that and you will have the roof down on you fairly quickly.
I'm with the "get a design done" brigade.
Sureshot
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Now that you have cut it I would sister a 2x8 horizontally on both sides from C-E. Then sheet in the rest of the truss on both sides with plywood. Glue and screws. 2 cents.