How do you remove a stuck detent ball from OLD SK 40970?

[FlushingDIYer]

So I picked up an older Wayne 40970, really beat up with a lot of character. It sounded like there was sand and marbles in the action! I picked up a kit for $7 off eBay and went to cleaning and relubing it and getting it ready for action. All went relatively smoothly. I broke the old lever releasing the pawl, but it all came out. This is the kit I purchased (because it was less than half the price of the refresh kit.)

It was really disgusting in there! No wonder why it sounded and felt the way it did...

The mechanism itself is so brilliantly simple and well put together. It was really eye-opening to see something like this. Talk about American ingenuity! The pawl was OK on this side... but check out the other side.

Man, how much torque was the P.O putting on this little ratchet???

Anyhow, cleaned everything up put everything back together and the action is smooth as butter. Total price of this ratchet and new pawl was about 9 bucks altogether... But...I noticed that the detent ball is stuck! I have sprayed it with brake parts cleaner and then I let some 3 and 1 oil sit and pool on top, trying to rotate the ball with a pick, but it's still stuck. I took a punch and tapped it from all sides, and nothing. Is there any other way to try to release the ball? Or is this how these actions die? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Infinia]

wow that is totally trashed, ball spring included
1st inspect the gear teeth in the main body, if you dare.
IDK seems the full refresh kit would of been a better proposition? or order the parts after tool in hand.

 

[davethorik]

Lol should have ordered a full rebuild kit

 

[FlushingDIYer]

Lol should have ordered a full rebuild kit

Yeah! For real...

But at least I know now how to get into the ratchet!

 

[WJD]

Be very ginger with some heat maybe..... it might release.

Ball detents are kinda a one shot deal

I rebuilt my tuf one 3/8 ratchet a while back, pawls were shot. Got a heck of nice S-K ratchet again.

 

[davethorik]

Be very ginger with some heat maybe..... it might release.

Ball detents are kinda a one shot deal

Chances are if the ball does come loose, it will just flop around in the hole because the tiny spring is deteriorated. Rebuild kit.

 

[Reese]

You can call SK and get a complete new kit for free.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Just call s&k and get a free full rebuild kit.

 

[6PTsocket]

That was never intended to be disassembled. The spring was put in the hole, followed by the ball and then it was peened with a circular punch in a BIG press to shrink the size of the hole. If you got it out through the front, had a replacement ball and spring it is doubtful you could close the hole enough to retain the ball. I guess it is all hardened steel but if it were drillable, you could go in from the back, tap the hole for a set screw and reload from there, iF you had replacement parts. This idea was just for fun. Get a new free part from SK. Besides the drive would probably be weak and break if you drilled it.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[413dan]

+1 on calling sk for a free rebuild kit. I d8d 8t for 9ne of these 2 years ago. My detent broke as well. Back to good as new. Had the parts in like 3 days

 

[kctyphoon]

Only thing I have think of is maybe try an ultrasonic cleaner.. you can "improvise" with throwing the part into a small mason jar, or Tupperware with cleaner, and strapping it the bottom of a non rotating palm sander- and then let the thing run whiles suspending the contraption from the sanders cord, or string, while it's running. It might be more trouble then it's worth, but if you wanna play with it...

 

[T45]

If there is enough corrosion/junk inside to stick the detent ball, I think the guys are right above -- that once you clean and free it up, the ball action will be sub-optimal.

Not woth the hassle using a small ratchet with a messed up ball retainer. So better to just fix it properly. Good luck--but get new square drive.

 

[KnurledNut]

Stick a strong magnet on it and tap the end of the square drive with a hammer.
Then after that doesnt work, go get a repair kit.

 

[mbshop]

I had a ratchet with the same issue. I just soaked it in rust penetrant for about a week. Then started playing with it carefully. Finally the ball worked loose and luckily the spring was not broken. Still ok years later.
you have the time so soak it for a week. The pawl breakage might have been due to dirt or using grease. They are ment to be lubed by light oil only.

 

[four.cycle]

how much torque was the P.O putting on this little ratchet???

Far more than it was designed for.
There's a reason why they make ratchets in 3/8" 1/2" and 3/4" drive.

 

[bonneyman]

When I've been real desperate (can't get a repair kit, really want to bring the ratchet back to operation), I've taken to drilling a small hole through the other side of the knuckle and tapping out to detent ball and spring with a thin rod. Clean, get/make a new spring, and reinstall.

The detent ball is held in by a small ridge made by a press. Tapping it out leaves most of that small ridge. Pushing the ball back in between the faces of a small vise will get it past the remnants of that ridge - and most times there's enough left over to retain the ball in there.

 

[mbshop]

I used to have the punches to make those ridges to hold the balls in. Only found one the other day but I think its for 3/8 ratchets. Like your idea of drilling the hole. Wonder if a few hits of a punch would deform the lip enough to help hold the ball in.

 

[FlushingDIYer]

Far more than it was designed for.
There's a reason why they make ratchets in 3/8" 1/2" and 3/4" drive.

You know though, before the days of Youtube and forums like this, DIYers just picked up a set and started to take stuff apart. I don't think Chilton manuals ever really said which socket to use for what... No one taught me which drive to use on which kinds of bolts and fasteners! I sort of had to learn by trial and error... But wow, this poor, little, abused SK was still working. It still held. It was just gritty as hell in there! I reached out to SK I hope they get back to me. Otherwise I'll just go with the Toptul as my go-to until I can find a 40970 for cheap...

When I've been real desperate (can't get a repair kit, really want to bring the ratchet back to operation), I've taken to drilling a small hole through the other side of the knuckle and tapping out to detent ball and spring with a thin rod. Clean, get/make a new spring, and reinstall.

The detent ball is held in by a small ridge made by a press. Tapping it out leaves most of that small ridge. Pushing the ball back in between the faces of a small vise will get it past the remnants of that ridge - and most times there's enough left over to retain the ball in there.

I love this! I was wondering if this was possible because I wanted to keep the old steel in there. I would imagine that the steel this old ratchet is made out of is better than anything available in a refresh kit. And besides, it's a 1/4" drive so any rigidity lost by a tiny little pin hole won't really put my life in danger. (Unlike those 1/2" drive and strut bolts and the sort!) I'll try soaking it before I drill into it. Thanks for all the suggestions, guys!

I think I might do this on Christmas!

 

[four.cycle]

^ There was a thread here some time back in which a member described the procedure he used for replacing the detent ball and spring in a drive tool. (I think it was a breaker, not a ratchet.) Don't remember where it was. He used a tiny spring he found at Ace Hardware and cut it down, as I recall. Ace also carries itty-bitty ball bearings that suit that purpose.

Otherwise I'll just go with the Toptul as my go-to until I can find a 40970 for cheap...

Just out of curiosity, are you looking at the "Ebay hot deal" thread?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6175684&highlight=40970#post6175684

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6172035&highlight=40970#post6172035

or.... maybe just use different search parameters:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SK-S-K-1-4-...:g:b8EAAOSwo4pYRZNR&item=122256049301&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-222-SK-1-4-Ratchet-/162293398888?hash=item25c970bd68:g:bP0AAOSwj85YNi6o

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-SK-...:g:m3AAAOSwoudW9yMy&item=122274069093&vxp=mtr

 

[Infinia]

I reckon somebody went out of their way to destroy that lil ratchet, I cant imagine someone not thinking about stepping up to 3/8 drive size.

Originally Posted by FlushingDIYer
Otherwise I'll just go with the Toptul as my go-to until I can find a 40970 for cheap...

I don't get it you said you already have one of these, are you turning into a tool hoarder. LOL

I hate to admit it, S-k 40907 aren't all that , My 3rd down on the 1/4 ratchet list.
I prefer to get different style drives, each one does somethings better than others! I really like to have them in convenient self contained small socket sets. After using a small 1/4" roto-head ratchet, youll soon ditch all the others. It's almost a OMG revelation in speed and convenience.

 

[mbshop]

That's why there is variety I guess. I had a 3/8 roto head. Hardly used it. It had its place but not my go to ratchet.

 

[Fretters]

I had a ratchet with the same issue. I just soaked it in rust penetrant for about a week. Then started playing with it carefully. Finally the ball worked loose and luckily the spring was not broken. Still ok years later.

That type of approach generally works for me too. Just soak it in light oil/diesel/kerosene etc., and work the ball ocassionally, until it comes loose. Doesn't take much rust or crud for those things to jam solid.

 

[snapmom]

You have to have the right tools.

 

[PFSard]

Elroy offers a solution in this posting

How do I fix this?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=224981

 

[Infinia]

That's why there is variety I guess. I had a 3/8 roto head. Hardly used it. It had its place but not my go to ratchet.

yeah roto-head not ideal for 3/8" drive, but we are talking about 1/4" and generally light duty fasteners / hardware.

 

[FlushingDIYer]

Wow, first thing Monday morning, SK emailed to say I'd have a kit by Friday...

Still want to try to release that ball bearing though! Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

SK has really made a customer for life out of me.

 

[bsg1]

Wow, first thing Monday morning, SK emailed to say I'd have a kit by Friday...

Still want to try to release that ball bearing though! Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

SK has really made a customer for life out of me.

that's impressive cs. good luck with the project.

 

[four.cycle]

You have to have the right tools.

I can get the little bearings and compression springs up the street at Ace Hardware, but where does a guy find that punch?

 

[snapmom]

It was part of a SO dealers rat repair kit.

 

[T45]

It was part of a SO dealers rat repair kit.

I like how the older tools had a distinct radial shaps w/ the ball staking mark/depressions.

 

[Derek420]

I had just got a rebuild kit for my roto ratchet but I didn't really need it as it only needed cleaned and oiled. I have a 1/4 extension with same issue I've soaked it for 2 weeks to no help even tried the magnet ordeal and nope so I guess it's replacement time. I love the Tuff 1 ratchets they are so much smoother and better than the other old styles I haven't tried a new one I'd kill for the roto version but can find one been watching eBay like a hawk I'd trade a brand new dual80 for one if anyone wants to trade it's a long flex soft grip.

 

[FlushingDIYer]

I received my refresh kit from SK by Friday morning, as promised...

I'm kind of in awe of the customer service here... So this is what it feels like to be treated like a human? Who knew!

Merry Christmas, everyone!!!

 

[413dan]

great customer service! glad to hear you are pleased

 

[XxToolAholicxX]

Did you try soaking it in transmission fluid? I tried that before as I learned that on this forum and it worked on locked ratchets.. But then you got a new kit coming.. S-K has the best warranty in my opinion when it comes to needing rebuild kits...