How does this chuck come off?

[pioneer1]

I have inherited an old Craftsman bench top drill press from my dad. Model 351226250.
Has a Renox R33-13L chuck. Can’t find any information on it anywhere. Does it press on or thread on?
Seems to have a little wobble in it and the teeth on it are worn down to the point the key doesn’t work on it. Would like to replace it
Hopefully someone here can help. Don’t want to go pounding on it if it’s threaded.

 

[k-os]

Looks like it uses a taper fit. Extend the quill and use a drift through the bottom slot seen on part 22 to knock the chuck out.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/271imlyl2y-000247/craftsman-351226150-drill-press-parts

See pictures not too far down this page for an example.

https://www.micro-machine-shop.com/drill_presses_chucks.htm

 

[Machinitect]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BSG9S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Use your Jacobs wedges to pop it out. Squeeze or hit the wedges from opposing directions.

 

[xtal_01]

Hey!

Yes, it looks like the "33" refers to a Jacobs 33 taper.

The back of the chuck should have a tapered hold in it.

In addition, the quill of the drill press may or may not have a tapered hole in it.

When you lower the quill, can you see a slot in the side that you look through? If so then you can put a wedge in there and push out an intermediate shaft with a taper on both ends (usually a morse taper on one end and a jacobs on the other). Some drills have this while others just have the end of the shaft with taper on it.

Here is a link showing a guy with the same issue and pictures of eh wedges he used to separate it.

I made two mating wedges (just two pieces of tapered metal with a slot in them) that I can force together to remove the chuck.

I tired to post a link showing this and couldn't(said I didn't have 5 posts yet) I tried to PM you the link (said I could not ... needed 10 posts) ... PM or e-mail me if you need the link.

Hope this helps

 

[exmaxima1]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BSG9S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Use your Jacobs wedges to pop it out. Squeeze or hit the wedges from opposing directions.

There appears to be a groove machined into the spindle nose just above the chuck. Will the wedges fit that groove? The groove doesn't look very deep.

 

[Machinitect]

I can’t tell if that groove is deep enough to catch the inside edge of the wedges. If not, a spacer like a piece of steel, wood, or aluminum could be placed above the wedges to apply downward pressure. Once the wedges are tight, a good smack with a hammer usually pops the taper loose.

If wedges don’t work or you don’t want to buy tapers, open the chuck as far as it goes. Chuck a drill bit in your cordless drill. Drill a hole straight through the base of the inside of the chuck toward the taper. Put a lever like a long screwdriver or punch or chisel between the old chuck and the drill press and apply downward pressure. Place a small punch through the little hole that you drilled and smack the base of the taper and it should pop loose.

 

[Machinitect]

Pioneer, I just noticed that you are in Kansas City. If you can’t get anything to work, PM me and I’ll come over with some tools and remove that old chuck for you.

 

[nadogail]

An appropriate wedge inserted in the quill and rapped with a hammer should drive the Morse Taper Adapter out of the quill.

 

[pioneer1]

There is no slot to put a wedge though, so it must take the wedges used on top of the chuck.
Machinitect, I would hate to have u drive all the way up here from Louisburg. I’m close to Liberty. I think I understand your idea of drilling it. We will see

Thanks

 

[dogdog]

a pickle fork on the gap betweeb the drill chuck and that spindle in your pic 1 of 2 will do. JT33 is common chuck taper.

see if this is your manual..
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/494160/Craftsman-113-213130.html?page=27#manual

Take the part number for the chuck , google it and most generic replacement says it's a JT33.

 

[Machinitect]

Yep that’s a long drive to Liberty.
You may already know this, but when you install your new J33 chuck make sure to clean both the male and female tapers really well with acetone. After initially fitting it into the taper, hit the chuck hard with a bronze/ copper/ lead non-marring hammer to seat it. If you don’t clean the new chuck, it may just fall out after fitting it. Good luck!

 

[pioneer1]

I got it using Machinitect idea of drilling and using a center punch and used a pickle fork recommended by dogdog. But, why is there a screw here?
Now what chuck should I get to replace it with?
Harbor Freight has a Jacob’s 1/2. Whatcha think?

 

[Machinitect]

Nice work!
That new chuck is just fine, but an old USA made Jacobs version may be even better off of ebay used.

No idea what that set screw is unless the spindle is hollow and it is to press out the taper in the chuck from above.

 

[pattenp]

I've seen chucks with a screw inside that needs to be removed to release the chuck. Are you sure you didn't break off the head of the screw and it's inside the jaws?

 

[Machinitect]

Patten, thanks for sharing that. I have never seen that before. The magic of tapers is that you don’t also need a mechanical fastener, so I wonder if they put that there to account for loose tolerances or users that don’t clean the taper first. I’d clean and polish the taper and try the new chuck without it.

 

[pioneer1]

I've seen chucks with a screw inside that needs to be removed to release the chuck. Are you sure you didn't break off the head of the screw and it's inside the jaws?

I bet I drilled it off. I could remove it with my figures it wasn't tight at all.

That HF chuck is Threaded so it wont work.
Do I just look for a 33 taper chuck?

Found this 1 on Amazon. made in USA. Bought it..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IB6PS20/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[mc4life27]

I got it using Machinitect idea of drilling and using a center punch and used a pickle fork recommended by dogdog. But, why is there a screw here?

Now what chuck should I get to replace it with?

Harbor Freight has a Jacob’s 1/2. Whatcha think?

I had a semi newer small bench top
Drill press that was the same way. It was a screw though that once removed the j-33 chuck fell right off. I just used another j-33 chuck I saved from the trash at some point. Worked great till I sold the press and kept my
Chuck and sent the new owner with the original chuck. I did info the new owner about the chuck issues and he already had one on the way for it at the time


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