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How does this work? Brake Caliper Pin/Bolt Remover for Air Hammer

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Terra Nova

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Looks like you would use it with an air hammer and drive the pin out of the bracket from the outboard side (on the vehicle the air hammer would be pointing in towards the center of the vehicle with the v-notch over the pin).

Just my guess, I’ve never seen one of those before.
 

2ndGearRubber

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That thing ***** ***.

A dull wide chisel works much better. I purchased one of those thinking it would work well, and I'm not sure its removed a single pin successfully.
 

Fedwrench

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https://www.otctools.com/products/brake-caliper-pinbolt-remover-air-hammer

From OTC 's website:
Allows for removal of inboard facing pins or bolts to be removed from the outboard side of the brake caliper or vehicle component
For caliper pin removal, simply back the pin bolt out half way and place the tool over the bolt shank to strike against the bolt head
Fits all sizes of pins or bolt shanks ranging from ¼” (6mm) to 5/8” (16mm)
Air Hammer version

To me, if you have to use an air hammer to remove a frozen pin, you'll need to at least replace the crossover bracket or caliper because, a replacement pin by itself, won't fix why the old pin was stuck. :beer:
 

tarmy

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https://www.otctools.com/products/brake-caliper-pinbolt-remover-air-hammer

From OTC 's website:
Allows for removal of inboard facing pins or bolts to be removed from the outboard side of the brake caliper or vehicle component
For caliper pin removal, simply back the pin bolt out half way and place the tool over the bolt shank to strike against the bolt head
Fits all sizes of pins or bolt shanks ranging from ¼” (6mm) to 5/8” (16mm)
Air Hammer version

To me, if you have to use an air hammer to remove a frozen pin, you'll need to at least replace the crossover bracket or caliper because, a replacement pin by itself, won't fix why the old pin was stuck. :beer:

Yep...you could use a drift to tap them out...soak them first with some rust/gunk breaker...then decide how much damage to inflict getting them out.
 

Skin

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I can see something like that occasionally being useful in the rust belt if you dont have the time to wait or cant find some oddball caliper but really, a torch will ultimately accomplish the same thing with less damage. From experience though if you cant work any rusted shaft/bolt free by rotating, brute force pulling is usually even less effective. In the real world it probably works as good as the texas twister.

That thing ***** ***.

A dull wide chisel works much better. I purchased one of those thinking it would work well, and I'm not sure its removed a single pin successfully.

Pop a shank reducer into a .498 hammer and just tear the head off the pin or break the tool. Curse loudly then throw the whole thing into the trash only to be removed later for the core charge. The company sold a tool and you got a second to feel naive hope. Whats the problem?
 
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2ndGearRubber

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I can see something like that occasionally being useful in the rust belt if you dont have the time to wait or cant find some oddball caliper but really, a torch will ultimately accomplish the same thing with less damage. From experience though if you cant work any rusted shaft/bolt free by rotating, brute force pulling is usually even less effective. In the real world it probably works as good as the texas twister.



Pop a shank reducer into a .498 hammer and just tear the head off the pin or break the tool. Curse loudly then throw the whole thing into the trash only to be removed later for the core charge. The company sold a tool and you got a second to feel naive hope. Whats the problem?


Poking fun at that failure buy of mine too, eh? :lol: I figured it would work great, turns out it's basically worthless. Just wastes time and takes up room in my box. But I don't have the heart to sell it to some rube like myself who thinks it might work. LTI usually makes good stuff too.



IME a wide chisel bit with a dull tip can extract most any and all frozen slides within 10-15 seconds. The real nasty ones I may need 30 seconds on. I haven't used a torch in years. Typically I charge $20/bracket to clean/hone the bores out. Much cheaper than a new caliper, and easier to source than a bracket.
 

plinker

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Feb 28, 2007
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Northern Wi
I bought one a a couple years back and while it's not perfect, it does work for me most of the time provided the pin isnt rusted solid to the bracket.

It is a bit spendy for what it does I will say.
 

xjfish

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Feb 22, 2014
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If a vice-grip doesn't work I instantly drag the torch over. If the torch ultimately causes damage or can't find a boot or new pin, caliper is usually getting replaced.
 
OP
J

Jacobson

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Jan 11, 2014
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Still not sure how the tool works. Is it for the other side of the pin? The threaded end? Those claws just grab the threads and you pry it sideways, like you would with a screwdriver ?
 

2ndGearRubber

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Still not sure how the tool works. Is it for the other side of the pin? The threaded end? Those claws just grab the threads and you pry it sideways, like you would with a screwdriver ?

Remove caliper, find pin is stuck.

Place ^ shaped area down around the head of the slide pin, and punch it "forward" towards the center of the vehicle. The ^ shape means it fits various head size slide pins.



Just buy a wide chisel bit, approx 1" wide, and dull it. Pull the boot back around the pin, the dig the flat bit into the area where the pin flares outwards to accept the pin-bolt. Air hammer to release it.
 
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Jacobson

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You mean the "end" of the slide pin. The head has the hex cavity. But, I think I now get it. Tool is like a claw that rattles the pin backwards and out.

Didn't understand your chisel tip without a pic. Thanks though.
 
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