I am going to the lumber yard to order the supplies for my new 24X24garage/workshop . I can't decide how high to make the ceiling. 8 9 10 feet? any suggestions? This building will have an room upstairs. Someone told me to order precut stud and then add a 1 foot header above the sidewalls. how does that work?
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how high do I go?
- Thread starter headbrick
- Start date
boiler7904
Well-known member
What are you using the building for? I would say that 10' is the minimum for any type of use. Easy to move plywood around if you're into woodworking. 10' will also allow some auto lifts to be used in the space.
1' header above the sidewalls is a waste of material and doesn't really do anything for you. Headers are only needed over door and window openings and any other opening in a load bearing wall that interrupts a common stud.
Precut studs will only be available for nominal 8', 9', and maybe 10' ceiling heights.
1' header above the sidewalls is a waste of material and doesn't really do anything for you. Headers are only needed over door and window openings and any other opening in a load bearing wall that interrupts a common stud.
Precut studs will only be available for nominal 8', 9', and maybe 10' ceiling heights.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Someone told me to order precut stud and then add a 1 foot header above the sidewalls. how does that work?
1' header above the sidewalls is a waste of material and doesn't really do anything for you. Headers are only needed over door and window openings and any other opening in a load bearing wall that interrupts a common stud.
I think he is supposed to be meaning at buying the precuts and building a standard height wall, then building a shorter stub wall on top. Sometimes headers are made using 2x4's for windows and doors instead of laminated beams or 2x12's. Basically just a short wall on top of a taller wall. Around here, if you ask for precuts you are getting 92 5/8" 2x's. And a precut is a little more than the standard 8' 2x. So all in all, you would be just as far ahead to go with the longer 2x's as far as price and labor involved.
Lots of people do just fine with 8 foot ceilings. It really depends on what you plan on doing with the space. Added height means more wood, drywall, insulation, etc. If you plan on a lift at full height, go for 12 feet if you can.
The "pre-cuts" are shorter to allow for the top and bottom 2x4 plates so the whole wall will be 8 foot for the drywall guys.
If you go with 10 foot (120 inch) studs, plus a 2x4 footer and a double 2x4 header (3 x 1 1/2 = 4 1/2) you will end up with a 124 1/2 inch high wall.
Remember that a load of "as delivered" 2x4 may not all the same length.
You should plan on triming both ends to get them all the same length and to get square ends.
This is where you get your chance to trim the studs to length if you are planing on some exect dimention precut inside or outside paneling.
You cut off the 4 1/2 inchs while squaring them.
If you go with 10 foot (120 inch) studs, plus a 2x4 footer and a double 2x4 header (3 x 1 1/2 = 4 1/2) you will end up with a 124 1/2 inch high wall.
Remember that a load of "as delivered" 2x4 may not all the same length.
You should plan on triming both ends to get them all the same length and to get square ends.
This is where you get your chance to trim the studs to length if you are planing on some exect dimention precut inside or outside paneling.
You cut off the 4 1/2 inchs while squaring them.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Someone told me to order precut stud and then add a 1 foot header above the sidewalls. how does that work?
Please take this the right way....but if you are asking these kind of questions related to 'pre-cut" and 'headers', it would appear that you don't have a solid set of plans and that maybe you are potentially a little in over your head.
Thre is a bit more involved than just nailing up some pre-cut 2x4's....
Sill plate needs to be pressure treated wood.
Anchor bolts in the right locations
Depending on building codes, holddowns as well
Shear walls
If the attic is going to be used for anything other than holding drywall, then the joists need to be the right size with the right hangers...24'x24'? Without a center beam, you are looking at using 14' engineered joists at 12" OC.
Lots of A35's and LPT4's
The list goes on and on......
Please tell us that you have some detailed plans for this?
MXtras
Well-known member
10' minimum. 12' if you can do it.
Scott
Scott
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Always build in 2' or 4' increments for minimum waste. If you build with a 9' ceiling you are tossing a lot of material away.
logical
Well-known member
I agree width and length wise but how would that matter for height? Drywall run horizontally wouldn't work any better with 10' than it would with 9'. You have to trim the taper off top and bottom so 9' would actually be better because two 5' widths would cover it with minimal scrap. A 10' would take three 4' sections with a big but odd width left over.Always build in 2' or 4' increments for minimum waste. If you build with a 9' ceiling you are tossing a lot of material away.
You will never wish you had build with a lower ceiling...go 10' nominal minimum.
pattenp
Well-known member
I went 12' on the ceiling and am happy that I did. When I finally decided to get a lift, I had plenty of ceiling height. It was the best decision I made when building my garage. If you can swing 12', you won't be sorry, even if you don't see a lift in your future you may change your mind in time.
trainer
Well-known member
I agree width and length wise but how would that matter for height? Drywall run horizontally wouldn't work any better with 10' than it would with 9'. You have to trim the taper off top and bottom so 9' would actually be better because two 5' widths would cover it with minimal scrap. A 10' would take three 4' sections with a big but odd width left over.
You will never wish you had build with a lower ceiling...go 10' nominal minimum.
My ceiling is 9'. I bought half the drywall in 8' sheets and the other half in 10 footers. Ran it vertically and used the cutoffs from the 10 footers to fill in the other side.
I found out afterwards that they now sell 9' drywall
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I agree width and length wise but how would that matter for height? Drywall run horizontally wouldn't work any better with 10' than it would with 9'. You have to trim the taper off top and bottom so 9' would actually be better because two 5' widths would cover it with minimal scrap. A 10' would take three 4' sections with a big but odd width left over.
You have a 10' ceiling, you run horizontal, you leave the taper at the top. Splitting a 4 footer in half gives you two sheets. No taper at the bottom. With the taper at the top, you can get a more square corner than using full width as the tape is sunken into the taper. The only place you have to feather more is the **** joints. As far as building in 2' or 4' increments, the reason being is that all lumber is sold in 2' increments after 8'. Sheets of drywall, OSB can be bought in 2' increments after 8'. Why throw away 1' when you can go taller or longer. Build a garage 25' long instead of 24' and see what problems you run into.
boiler7904
Well-known member
To add to Kevin's logic on 2' increments of length and width,
Concrete block comes in 16" long units. 4' modules are easy. 2' can be done without any problems too.
Most residential brick is 8" long. Some is 12". Either one will get you on 2' modules easily.
Concrete forms come in 2' modules unless you build your own custom. Anything can be done but sticking to the standards makes life easier for the contractor and somewhat cheaper for the guy writing the checks.
Lap siding usually comes in 16' lengths. Other lengths can be had in 2' increments.
Concrete block comes in 16" long units. 4' modules are easy. 2' can be done without any problems too.
Most residential brick is 8" long. Some is 12". Either one will get you on 2' modules easily.
Concrete forms come in 2' modules unless you build your own custom. Anything can be done but sticking to the standards makes life easier for the contractor and somewhat cheaper for the guy writing the checks.
Lap siding usually comes in 16' lengths. Other lengths can be had in 2' increments.
logical
Well-known member
Thank you Captain Obvious.As far as building in 2' or 4' increments, the reason being is that all lumber is sold in 2' increments after 8'. Sheets of drywall, OSB can be bought in 2' increments after 8'. .............
boiler7904
Well-known member
But it isn't always obvious when someone is starting to plan their first construction project like a garage.