How involved is it to remove laminate counter tops?

[NewShockerGuy]

My wife's townhouse is a rental and we are updating things for the new tenants. The kitchen area needs a little sprucing up. I wanted to go with granite countertops to replace the 20 year old plain almond straight cut laminate but after discussing the size, installation, sink and cutout it would be in the tune of $4500 it's just not worth it considering in about two years we are totally gutting the kitchen and redoing it....soooo we are going to go with laminate again but the ones that have a nicer beveled edge and one that looks like stone. I'm actually quite surprised at the quality compared to what the builder did in the house 20 years ago. They have really come a long way.

Now we want to save the cabinets currently, where in two years ripping stuff up isn't an issue, I do not want to destroy the bottom cabinets when removing the old top.

What is involved in removing it? Is laminate normally screwed into the bottoms via screws coming through the tops of the bottom cabinets, is it glued...etc?

What is the best way to remove it without destroying things? I believe it has a small backing of about 3" on the wall so removing that is OK, and I am fine patching/painting the back wall. In fact we are probably going to go with a backsplash which I will do while replacing the top.

The counter top is a standard L shape and is not huge only because the sink, stove and fridge are also there so when we were at Lowes I think we'd need only 2 pieces to do the L (one straight with an angle cut, and then a smaller piece completing the L shape). Of the tune of about $350, which is cheap. I would have to make the cutout for the sink, what is best to make the cut.. router, jigsaw?

And lastly what is the best way of re-attaching new countertop, and do they normally need shimmed or anything like that?

Thanks much,
-Nigel

 

[rsanter]

it can be done several ways.
in some cases if the counters are prefabbed line what you are looking to put on there, they will have screwed then down from the bottom or perhaps used adheasive.

the older way of doing it would have been to cute, shape and screw down the particle board from the top and then apply the laminate on site over that.

pull some drawers and start inspecting. it may become very obvious very quick how it was done

if they are screwed in from the top there are a couple ways to remove them. sometimes you can simply pull them up and if the guy did not go screw crazy the top may come up with little to no damage to the cabinets. the damage will not be to the faces that you are wanting to save but to the under structure and should either not matter going forward or be easy to repair once the top is off.
if the top does not want to come off easy because of glue or lots of screws, then you get a circular saw with a blade that you don't care too much about and you start slicing the top into smaller pieces. set the blade depth so you are going almost but not all the way through the top. then as you start pulling up the top it will some out in pieces. some pieces will ge easy and the ones that are hard will be the ones you can approach another way as you will then have better access

bob

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Awesome thank you!

I was looking at some old HGTV (90's when HGTV was actually good) videos and found some things which will help.

I won't be able to get back into the townhouse until next Thursday so I will have to see if it is a single piece or multiple, but will definitely see how it is attached and then go from there. Seems much better than what I had first initially envisioned.

-Nigel

 

[maxpower_hd]

Being a town house my guess is they are the type that are screwed in from the bottom. Just unscrew and remove. It really isn't that involved at all.

You might want to check out an actual kitchen cabinet place. I got some really nice laminate tops made to fit with a maple trim in front for about the same as the box store could get me and it was MUCH better quality. Mine sort of looks like granite but with the wood trim. They made matching back splashes too.

I also had to cut out the sink. I used a circular saw with a finish blade and taped where I was cutting with masking tape. I sort of plunge cut into it. Then I did the curved parts with a good jig saw and brand new blade. It doesn't have to be exactly perfect. Just the right size for the sink to fit. Assuming you are going with a top mount sink.

 

[reader2580]

The countertops in my 1980 house were glued to the cabinets. I was able to fairly easily pop the countertops loose with a pry bar and lifted up the entire 11 foot piece at once. I was not saving cabinets, but cabinets were not damaged.

I needed to save my countertops because replacing kitchen cabinets was very last minute and I didn't have time to get new countertops made. The countertop is in bad shape around the sink due to water damage from a leaking faucet. I am surprised the countertop survived removal and subsequent installation. I don't want to spend $1500 on new countertops right now.

 

[Cyberbear]

Simply look underneath and observe the way they were originally installed, then take it apart accordingly. Then go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy ready made replacement tops, trim to size and install. This can usually be easily accomplished in a weekend, if you have the experience and proper skills.

 

[06 DIESEL]

Tools you will need

Jigsaw with reverse cut blade (cuts on down stroke)
hole saw assortment up to 2"
7/16" wrenches, standard open end will need 2
depending on sink attachment will need deep socket and long (9-12") extension
dead blow hammer/mallet with smooth face
drill
Circular saw with finish blade
Masking tape or painters tape
impact screwdriver
Framing square
caulk gun
wood glue
clear/white paintable caulk
Iron
Fine flat file
Fine possum tail file

You should be able to pull the drawers and get to the bottom of the laminate top, pull out all screws and disconnect all plumbing but leave the sink installed.
Remove old top and then take out sink.
Check the corner for square before gluing corner of top.
Cut to length pieces, tape cur line and cut slow with finish blade
When gluing top corner set in place long piece first, then set the short piece close but do not touch them yet, put glue on one edge and bring the two together.
Get under the corner and put in the clamps and tighten most of the way.
Check corner for flush, use dead blow hammer to line up seam perfectly, don't be afraid to beat the **** out of it but put a towel where you plan to hit to soften the blow to the laminate.
Tighten the bolts the rest of the way.
Screw top down with as many corners of cabinets as possible.
Measure for the sink opening and cut it out.
Use the hole saw in the corners and the jigsaw with reverse cut blade (cut on down stroke)
Install sink and tighten down
Hook up plumbing and test for leaks.
For the ends you need to get the end piece and iron it on, line it up the best you can and file down the edges to get it perfectly smooth. Only file towards the cabinet, never away, it will chip the edge off.
Caulk edge of backsplash to wall.

 

[My Old Tools]

A belt sander works well for scribing the back splash to the wall.

 

[simpler=better]

I'd grab a rustoleum epoxy kit for kitchens and recoat them. Fast and cheap.

 

[beardog]

If you are replacing them and they are properly sized (correct overhangs), then absolutely take good accurate measurements and order the same size. Many places insist on sending out a estimator to measure before selling to you. Take photos and measurements so you can show the salesperson that you want an exact size replacement.

 

[maxpower_hd]

The cabinet place went with my drawings. They even made one wrong. I just showed the drawing and they made a new one.

You really shouldn't have to scribe anything to the wall if your using back splash unless the wall is WAY out or has a big belly in it someplace as the back splash will hide small inconsistencies.

I had an outside corner on one of my tops where it went around a wall. No seems at all. No need to hammer, glue or join anything at all except the back splash to the wall. All I had to do was cut the hole for the sink and that's it. All the edges were per-finished and everything. For not much more money I had the counters out and in in one day. The back splash I glued later but it was in place and being used. And it was just me and the wife....so basically just me.

My vote is still call the cabinet place where the builders go and see what they say.

 

[Smokeem]

This is my trade and I've came across 3 ways that laminate counters have been installed. Older tops are almost always installed and laminated on site. Most just use finish nails to nail the substrate to the cabinets and then laminate over them. I've also ran across where they have done the same method but instead of nails have used a grabber type screw through the substrate into the cabinets. Most new non pre fab cabinets will be screwed from the underside into the counter. Best bet would be to check the corners on the underside for screws going into the underside of the cabinet. If you don't see any I would suggest using a snap blade utility knife and running under the laminate to see if you can separate it from the substrate. Most of the time with counter that are built in place is that the will nail or screw to the face frame. If they are screwed and you run a big risk of breaking the top of the face frames.

When you cut the sink I just use a jigsaw and have found one blade that works the best. Most Home Depots carry it too! It's a Bosch blade made for cutting laminate. It has straight teeth so it cuts on both the up and down stroke. Either use masking tape and mark the sink cutout or just use a sharpie and mark right on the counter. You can use some lacquer thinner to take the sharpie off if you need to.

If your looking at the preformed counters I would highly recommend going with a WilsonArt laminate. We deal with well over 100,000 square feet of laminate a year and now almost deal solely with WilsonArt. They have a better finish, more durable and don't break as easy, and are bits last longer. If you can get an HD or Aeon finish that is their best finish and they look more like real stone.

If you have any questions feel free to pm me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Coolabah]

My wife's townhouse is a rental and we are updating things for the new tenants. The kitchen area needs a little sprucing up. I wanted to go with granite countertops to replace the 20 year old plain almond straight cut laminate but after discussing the size, installation, sink and cutout it would be in the tune of $4500 it's just not worth it considering in about two years we are totally gutting the kitchen and redoing it....soooo we are going to go with laminate again but the ones that have a nicer beveled edge and one that looks like stone. I'm actually quite surprised at the quality compared to what the builder did in the house 20 years ago. They have really come a long way.

Now we want to save the cabinets currently, where in two years ripping stuff up isn't an issue, I do not want to destroy the bottom cabinets when removing the old top.

What is involved in removing it? Is laminate normally screwed into the bottoms via screws coming through the tops of the bottom cabinets, is it glued...etc?

What is the best way to remove it without destroying things? I believe it has a small backing of about 3" on the wall so removing that is OK, and I am fine patching/painting the back wall. In fact we are probably going to go with a backsplash which I will do while replacing the top.

The counter top is a standard L shape and is not huge only because the sink, stove and fridge are also there so when we were at Lowes I think we'd need only 2 pieces to do the L (one straight with an angle cut, and then a smaller piece completing the L shape). Of the tune of about $350, which is cheap. I would have to make the cutout for the sink, what is best to make the cut.. router, jigsaw?

And lastly what is the best way of re-attaching new countertop, and do they normally need shimmed or anything like that?

Thanks much,
-Nigel

I might be misunderstanding what you are calling laminate as things might be different where I live. Many years ago when I bought my first house , I wanted to spruce up the kitchen. I found that the existing laminex was glued to the underlying particle wood board and with a bit of patience could be levered off. I bought new laminate sheet and simply glued it on , trimmed etc. In those days I was not skilled/confident enough to do the vertical surface/edge so trimmed it with wood. Worked great at the time, surely adequate for a rental property. Otherwise , is it possible to just lay laminex on top of existing bench (laminex is like a very thin plastic compound veneer , assuming this is the same/similar concept in USA? )
And on that note- glad you are not considering going expensive... one of my friends from school used to rebuild motorbikes on his (rented house !) kitchen bench...just a thought !

 

[PugetDude]

I replaced preformed laminate countertops with granite on the last three homes I remodeled. Getting the old tops off couldn't have been easier.
Cut the caulk joints with a razor knife and gave them a sharp upward tug on the edges. They popped right up. Slid them side-to-side a few times to dislodge the fasteners and I was able to drag them right off the base cabinets.
If you have a factory miter joint with threaded cross bolts, just prop the countertop up a bit on a couple of 2x4's and loosen them up a turn or two with a 7/16" open end wrench, the crossbolts will fall right out.

Good luck with your project!

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Awesome! Thanks for all the help everyone. This should be a fun project!

I don't want to go cheap but at the same time I know how renters are. We have had the same renters in the townhouse for almost 5 years and while they have been great, there are certain things I am like "really, why would they do this" type of situations. Nothing crazy like some of the stories we have here, but still. I know when I rented I tried to take care of things, while I know that isn't the norm, I'd rather go this route to make it look nicer and not so dated than installing expensive granite only to have it messed up because people clang pots, or cut on them without cutting boards...etc. We have granite in our house but obviously we take care of it because it's our house.

To be honest I didn't even think of contacting a cabinet store only because I figured they carried nothing but granite and would be expensive. However, that MIGHT be the best choice because I could give them exact measurements and then they could make the piece.

As far as the countertops they look pretty much like this: Just plain almond color that has no bevel or shape to them.

This is what we saw at Lowes: Much nicer looking.

I will probably post up and ask some more things in a week but I am looking forward to do it, and from what everyone has recommended it appears I only need to get the jigsaw blade as everything else is no problem.

One silly question, since this is particle board does it need to be sealed after any cuts, and if so what is the best product to use? IE: I cut the hole for the sink, which now leaves open wood. The sink will get caulked around the edges BUT what if the caulk eventually cracks due to (think of crazy renter's stories here) and it starts to delaminate.

I'll definitely post some pictures as we progress here next week

-Nigel

 

[NUTTSGT]

If there is a bead of cualk at the backsplash/wall area, you need to make a cut with a utility knife. If not, it may pull the paint and possibly the drywall paper off when removing the counter tops.

I'd avoid granite on the rental. They may need to be sealed, good luck with that and havign a renter. Secondly, granite can crack and isn't repairable like quartz. I shouldn't say isn't repairable but I do believe quartz repairs are alot easier. If a renter drops something just right, sharp corner on a vien, there's a possiblity it could crack. Putting granite countertops in your home is one thing but I'd avoid them in a rental.

 

[Dustball]

If your looking at the preformed counters I would highly recommend going with a WilsonArt laminate. We deal with well over 100,000 square feet of laminate a year and now almost deal solely with WilsonArt. They have a better finish, more durable and don't break as easy, and are bits last longer. If you can get an HD or Aeon finish that is their best finish and they look more like real stone.

As far as the countertops they look pretty much like this: Just plain almond color that has no bevel or shape to them.

I agree with the WilsonArt laminate. Here's a couple of before/after pictures of a kitchen I did a refresh on using WilsonArt laminate tops. The original tops looks to be similar to what you have now.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Looks like a lot of good advice. Having run a formica shop, years ago, when we installed a sink, we applied DAP caulk to the underside of the sink along the edge (before installation), and painted the exposed edge of the core board with a good exterior paint.

We would also laminate the underside of the countertop directly above the dishwasher, painting the underside of the edge above the door.

In the shop, when we would cut a hole for the sink, we had plywood templates made, and used a plunge router. If the sink cut (or a slide in cook stove) was to be made in the field, the cut was made with a jig saw. Be sure you make the cut the proper size, and center the cut where the sink or cook stove will be

Good luck

 

[Badhabit]

We coated our laminated counter tops with a product from Lowe's that was called stone something. We cleaned the tops and put on a primer, coated it with a sand type mixture and then a clear epoxy over top. Took a few days but well worth it. It is about 4 years old now and standing up well. Would definitely do it again.

H

 

[Falcon67]

you should shop around more - we did 47 sq/ft of counter top in 3mm granite for right at $2500. I stripped out the sink before the installers came that day and we had the counter tops out in the yard in like 30 minutes. I've done laminate, it's not hard - two layers of 3/4 ply, glue, roller, sheet of laminate, router with edging bit is about all it takes. WilsonArt makes s good product, we used a gray granite looking type in our old house that held up well.

I like the granite much better, but then we're owners not renters.

 

[Coolabah]

snip


I like the granite much better, but then we're owners not renters.

And therein lies the difference ! I'm pretty sure a survey would find most people if not all would prefer granite. I heck sure do. But not for a rental property . Might be different in your area but I have friends with rentals in my city and a granite benchtop would be either broken, or I have heard of one property where anything valuable was ripped out and sold pretty quickly, apparently loser tenants used fake paperwork to get the property ... Pretty sure you could google many horror stories.

 

[jetnow1]

If not using the cheap postformed countertops from Lowes/Home Depot then contact local
fabricators and buy direct. They are often cheaper, offer delivery, and can fabricate it without seams, much better with tenants or owners also. Remember that the big box stores have them fabricated also, skip the middle man.