how long does your standard $2 light switch last?

[superspec]

over the past few years i have had some fail. the first few were replaced until i got scared. one died so i replaced it which the problem then went to the next switch. i replaced it and the problem went to the last switch and i stopped at that point because in my head that was the last switch and i didnt know where the problem would go next or if my house might burn down. i got a pro. friend of mine to come over and things have been fine since.

just the other day another light died, replaced bulbs and nothing so here i am at the switch. the extra i have isnt exactly like the old one and im confused. the old switch has 2 black wires going to one screw and a black one poked into the back of the switch. this is a 3 switch panel so i am assuming its some sort of daisy chain effect. will my problem just go to the next switch now? i guess ill go and get an identical switch to the old one just so i dont have any confusion while putting it in.

 

[Gregishome]

I have had the .50 single pole switches from Lowes last for 10 + years and still going. Might want to get your "pro" friend back. The two wires under one screw needs re-done and the "push in conductor" needs removed and wrapped around the screw clockwise and torqued down or, use a new switch with screw clamp type screws. Yes, you have what is called "feed thru" wiring where the worker continued the power "hot" conductor over to feed another switch. Your problem could lay in the switch wiring or somewhere downstream. Start out with good switches and good connections. good luck

 

[Executive]

I have seen switches installed 40 years ago still working. Lets say the switch is used 5x a day. So 5x365x40=73000 operations. I think 73000 operations is pretty good for what was probably a $0.29 device. Thats $0.000004 per operation. The switch itself is typically VERY reliable. The terminations are what cause problems and even there, they have to be pretty bad to not work.

Chris

 

[Executive]

sorry, double post

 

[KinzeMech]

assuming normal use under normal conditions, 37.9 years.

 

[sberry]

Never have a problem with the 50 cent ones but most of mine carry small loads, agree if they are backstabbed its where the problem is.

 

[KinzeMech]

They should stop making switches and receptacles with backstab ports.

I'm not one generally to favor idiot proofing things, but I did once pull a receptacle out of the wall, to find backstabbed aluminum stranded wire. Is there a more perfect trifecta of electrical sins?

 

[Alchymist]

They should stop making switches and receptacles with backstab ports.

I'm not one generally to favor idiot proofing things, but I did once pull a receptacle out of the wall, to find backstabbed aluminum stranded wire. Is there a more perfect trifecta of electrical sins?

Could have been worse - coulda been #14 aluminum on a 20 amp breaker.

 

[ForceFed70]

A lot depends on what you are switching. The more draw, the more arcing and the sooner the contacts wear out.

Also, CFL's are really hard on a switch. The inrush current is really high which is hard on the contacts as it causes more arcing.

You may want to look at a decorator (Decora) style switch. The nature of the switch causes the contacts to be open/closed much faster than a traditional toggle style switch. This reduces arcing and extends the life of the contacts.

 

[Norcal]

Could have been worse - coulda been #14 aluminum on a 20 amp breaker.

They did not make 14 AWG aluminum, 12 AWG AL is 15A, 10 AWG AL is 20A.

 

[machine_punk]

I had a couple around here wear out after 18 years (I haven't been here that long, but that was how old the house was at that time). Started buzzing/arcing when flipping the switch and not staying on. Replaced it quickly before any problems.

M_P

 

[ishiboo]

They should stop making switches and receptacles with backstab ports.

I'm not one generally to favor idiot proofing things, but I did once pull a receptacle out of the wall, to find backstabbed aluminum stranded wire. Is there a more perfect trifecta of electrical sins?

That aluminum stranded would have been just as out of place in most screw terminal devices as well. The rather serious ADVANTAGE to back stabbing it is the failure point for aluminum wire was the connecting heating up and loosening up the joint - the backstabbed receptacles use spring steel which would have maintained the joint. Oxidation could have caused problems though.

There are millions of trouble-free backstabs in the US, and I've seen plenty of screw-terminal device failures. For receptacles, I only use back-wire screw terminals... they are quick and easily duplicated like the backstab receptacles but provide better holding power. For a light switch or other similar device, I have no concerns backstabbing them to save time.

 

[Alchymist]

They did not make 14 AWG aluminum, 12 AWG AL is 15A, 10 AWG AL is 20A.

OK, I should have said 14 ga equivalent....

 

[Zengineer]

Bought my 1964 house in 2007, and felt it was time to replace them then. They still worked, but were a bit sloppy and we prefer the decora style. So that's 43 years...

 

[KinzeMech]

There are millions of trouble-free backstabs in the US, and I've seen plenty of screw-terminal device failures. For receptacles, I only use back-wire screw terminals... they are quick and easily duplicated like the backstab receptacles but provide better holding power. For a light switch or other similar device, I have no concerns backstabbing them to save time.

Screw terminals only fail if they are improperly installed.

Backstabbed terminations can fail regardless.

You can make the argument that backstabbed is "good enough", but you'd be hard pressed to make the argument that it is "better".

 

[FluxCore]

First of all, industrial/commercial/hospital grade switches and outlets mostly use screw clamp back stab with NO provision to wrap wire around the terminal screws...and most of them provide 2 wire holes per screw....So back stabbing CAN be expected and preferred when using quality components.

Switches can be had snap action or silent...The snap action switch will always hold up longer under high starting loads.

When I built my Dad's house ( he was retired Army construction engineer and home builder), he didn't want a mortgage, so he tried to cheap out on certain stuff.....Like electrical.............Once I had drawn up all the material schedules and we went to fetch it all, he selected outlets, switches, boxes and cover plates that totaled maybe $1 per assembly....I put them back and tossed all hospital grade in the cart and he pitched a fit....at that point he wanted to reduce the number of outlets, but I paid the difference....Bless his heart..he didn't want to leave mom a mortgage

That was 17 years ago....not a switch or outlet has failed

Oh, and the OP's mention of two blacks under one screw, was the original installers attempt to daisy chain hot to another switch...He should have wired nutted the chain and only sent one black to the switch terminal screw.

 

[Alchymist]

These were still working when I replaced them during a remodel. Anyone's guess as to how old - but they are antiques! Third picture shows one of the "splices I found in the ceiling of the living room - old fabric covered 2 wire wrapped with friction tape.

 

[ishiboo]

First of all, industrial/commercial/hospital grade switches and outlets mostly use screw clamp back stab with NO provision to wrap wire around the terminal screws...and most of them provide 2 wire holes per screw....So back stabbing CAN be expected and preferred when using quality components.

That's a backwire receptacle, not a backstab... stab implies you just stick the wire in And yes, IMO those are the best connection... the torque reliability benefits of the screw terminal, with the ease of use of stripping flat wire and sticking it in.

You can also easily run stranded to the backwire receptacles, so they're great for that and places like boats that use tinned stranded wire.

 

[FluxCore]

That's a backwire receptacle, not a backstab... stab implies you just stick the wire in And yes, IMO those are the best connection... the torque reliability benefits of the screw terminal, with the ease of use of stripping flat wire and sticking it in.

QUOTE]

Yup, that's why I call them "screw clamp back stab".........screw clamp.....

 

[where2]

assuming normal use under normal conditions, 37.9 years.

My house was built in 1962, I expect some are still original in "this old house". Others I switched out for cosmetic reasons. At my parents house, I know most are the originals from 1962. There were two rooms added in 1973 that are all still going.