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how long should I wait on a fresh floor before sealing?

madmaxnj

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Jun 27, 2017
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100
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NJ
Construction has begun! They are digging the footers now. Garage will be 24’x32’. Footers and block foundation, to extend 2’ above the floor. There will be about 2 weeks between the foundation/floor is done before the builders come back and assemble the structure. 10’ walls on top of the 2’ of block for total 12’ high walls.

So I need to start planning what I’ll be doing after they are done and it’s my turn to get to work. The concrete floor will be 5” thick and control joints every 8’. The builders are doing the structure and the insulation/metal ceiling. Later on I will do the electrical and insulation/interior walls. I also plan to fill the control joints and seal the floor.

So how long after the floor is poured do I need to wait before I can fill the control joints and seal the floor? I am planning on spraying a densifer and Ghostshield 8510. Not sure what yet on the control joints. I would prefer something I can get locally, so I can buy more or return easy if I buy too much. But the big box stores seem to mostly have self leveling style sealants. I have also been looking on line at products like PC Products Polyurea or Spal Pro joint filler. These seem to be more heavy duty type fillers, and probably the way to go, though it will be hard to judge how much to buy.

So back to my questions. How long to wait before I start doing things? What order do I apply products? I figure the joint filler work would come first, then the Ghostshield. Also considering Rust Bullet, applied with a roller. Ghostshield with a backpack sprayer seems so much easier to lay down. Whatever product I use I plan on running it up the 2’ of block wall as well, and onto the apron in front of the garage and pad by the side man door.

Since everything will be fresh, I’d like to do the floor work as soon as possible so it doesn’t have a chance to get dirty. But I also know I need to wait a bit, I just don’t know how long.

TIA
 
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Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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Hi
If you are using a penetrating sealer like Ghostshield, these allow the floors to breath so you can apply them fairly quickly in a couple of weeks or so.

if you are using a topical coating like epoxy, polyurea, or anything else that 'sits' on the floor, the floor must be fully cured for at least 30 days an often much longer (we have seen slabs take 90 days+ to cure) depending on conditions. You should test for moisture by taping down with duct tape a 4 x 4' sheet of clear plastic in the center of the floor. Wait 24 hours. If no dampening under the plastic or condensation appears the floor should be ok to coat.
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
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Central Maine
Instead of cutting control joints consider using Zipstrips. I've used these in two shops and have been very happy with them.

Sorry Larry but I have to respectfully disagree. Zip strips were made obsolete by early entry saws. Zip strips are difficult to install and rarely end up straight. They are a major PITA to install. Stick with saw cut control joints.

With regard to the OP's question; Refer to the mfg instructions for the product you will be using. Many products are applied after the concrete is fully cured, i.e. 28 days. You'll get some good advice from folks on here that represent these products.
 
Last edited:

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
Sorry Larry but I have to respectfully disagree. Zip strips were made obsolete by early entry saws. Zip strips are difficult to install and rarely end up straight. They are a major PITA to install. Stick with saw cut control joints.

That's fine you disagree. That is why I say to the OP to 'consider' the option.
I've never seen the question asked here about having to fill a joint with a zip strip in it vs the question being asked about filling cut joints or having the filling fail. Creepers are also obsolete but I still remember getting the castors caught in a few floor joints.

lg
no neat sig line
 

850xpeps

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Aug 6, 2017
Messages
1,365
I wouldn’t put any control joints in a slab this small. If ground is prepped properly and cement isn’t soup then it will
Be fine. This is how I treat most small garages I do. One has a small hairline crack that is it. On larger slabs I would suggest cutting depending on the finish you want.
 
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