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how many BTU's?

lkg907

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Feb 17, 2008
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I'll be dealing with 900 sq ft. The walls will be SIPs construction with R-26 insulation value. 10.5 ft ceiling height. And probably about R-48 in the attic.
How many BTU heater should I install. I'm looking at Natural gas fired Rexnor or Modine.
This is located in E. Wa. It can get down to zero or a bit colder around here.
Thanks in advance
 
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Dragster Racer

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What do they mean in that calculator of temp increase? Is it how warm compaired to outside temp? If I go that route, my 40x40x15 with average insulation in zero degree weather would need 200000 btu's. I must not be doing it right.
 

katoom400

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Sep 17, 2005
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new jersey
if your garage is insulated it most likely will not be zero inside, prolly 20-30? my garage stays about 40 when it is 10 degrees out.
 

Dragster Racer

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Ahhh. I see. It's not a difference between outside and desired temp. It is how much you want to warm up the shop from the state that it is in. If you don't open the door, and heat it all the time, you can get away with a much smaller BTU output. Thank you.
 

timgr

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Dec 19, 2006
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Medford, MA USA
I think your initial understanding is right. 40x40x15 is a big volume, more than a decent sized house. A lot of assumptions go into that number, but I'd think that the "well insulated" number is probably a good estimate of the minimum size heater you should consider. Unit heaters are available for 200K BTU and larger, so 200K BTU isn't an outrageous number.
 
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UnSub45

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Feb 5, 2007
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There are quite a few BTU calculators out there. Here's one: http://www.igcusa.com/non-greenhouse-btu-calculator.html

This calculator seems pretty accurate. I have a 19.5x26 garage with a ceiling that averages about 12'. Insulation is R19 in the walls, R21 in the cathedral area, R30 in the ceiling, and an insulated slab. I selected good insulation and the calculator says just over 24k Btu. My current heater is a 23k BTU kerosene wick heater and I can bring the garage up from 38F to 68F in about 3 hours when the outside temp is 19F.
 
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sneezer41

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People's Republic of Mass
Actually doing a 'real' heat loss calc is not that difficult.

sq foot of r value wall

sq ft r value window

sq ft r value ceiling

i don't have the book in front of me to look up the math

200k is HUGE

the only reason you need over 50k is if you plan on trying to heat from zero to 80 in a short time


My house with windows and hot water and 900 sq ft garage runs on a 1/2 gall an hour boiler.


Don't waste money by buying a huge inefficient furnace after making a nice tight building. The larger the furnace, the less efficient it is when you are not using 100 percent of output. IOW an 85 percent efficient furnace wastes 15k btu/hrs at 100kbtu input, and the same furnace at 200k wastes 30k btu/hrs


How cheap are those reznor etc heaters? this one is no the cheapest:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-95-EFFICIEN...ryZ41987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

but with a condensing furnace you will not need an insulated chimney, just a pvc in and out

just an idea
 

Chris J

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Feb 23, 2008
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Note that you need to determine the btu consumption RATE. A calculation may show that you need 200K btus, but over what period of time? If it's a 24 hour period, that translates to 8333 btus/hour. Whatever the rate, you need to translate that to the same rate the the heater is specified in so that you have a real comparison. A large candle can generate 200K btus, but it will take a lot of burning over a very long period of time to reach that total.

The "delta T" (the amount of temperature differential) is based on the difference between the "static" temp and the desired temp, and is normally based on outdoor temp vs. indoor temp. This is the case because heat rises and represents the actual temp differential across the insulation, and therefore the actual heat loss RATE across the insulation. Your heat sources must be able to generate heat at the same RATE in order to maintain a stable temperature in the room.

I say heat "sources" because there is generally some natural earth heat that comes up through the floor, however, this is a relatively small amount and should be discounted to offset other unconsidered sources of heat loss. For example, we generally assign an R value to a wall as though the entire wall is insulated, but in most cases it isn't. A stud wall with 16" stud spacing is only about 90% insulated, the other 10% is the studs and plates, and wood doesn't have near the R value of insulation.

I went through all the heat load calcs on my building and determined a 10 btu per sq. ft. per hour requirement to maintain a 70 degree temp differential between inside and outside under worst case temp extremes. The building is about 1500 sq. ft, so I need a heat source capable of generating 15K btus per hour, minimum. Theoretically, a 35K btu per hour propane wall heater would have to operate approximately 26 minutes of every hour to maintain a steady 70 degree temp differential between inside temp and outside temp. If the outside temp is -20 degrees F, at that rate, the building would stay at +50 degrees F inside.

The propane consumption rate of this heater can also be determined under these conditions. 1 Gallon of propane = 92K btu, and the furnace's efficiency rate is 80%, so we really get only 73.6K usuable btus from a gallon of propane, or 4.9 hours of heat (at 15K btus per hour) per gallon of propane. If we had to maintain this temp differential all day long, it would require about 5 gallons of propane per day to heat the building.

Fortunately, I don't have to maintain this heat differential all day long. This calculation is based on a "worst case" scenario. Most of the day the outdoor temperature is not 70 degrees below the desired indoor temp, so the 10 btus per sq. ft. per hour is not required all day long.
 

SteveU

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Nov 20, 2006
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Location
Michigan
What do they mean in that calculator of temp increase? Is it how warm compaired to outside temp? If I go that route, my 40x40x15 with average insulation in zero degree weather would need 200000 btu's. I must not be doing it right.


If it is 0*F out my 110,000 salamander will warm my 48x40x14 up to where you can work in a flannel shirt in about 1 1/2 hrs so we usually shut it off for a bit at that time. A 70,000 btu salamander will keep it warm enough to work in but will take longer to get to temp.
 

Jack T.

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Oct 31, 2007
Messages
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It probably depends on how warm you want to keep it. In my 28 x 32 with 10' ceiling I just wanted it to stay above freezing in W. PA. It's pretty tight, R13 roof and walls, dry wall, and two insulated 8 x 8 garage doors with a man door. I bought a 220V Dayton heater, 17,100 BTU, and it's been a surprise how well it works. At the second lowest setting, it kept the garage at 40F when outside it was around 10F. Yesterday it was 30F outside and I kicked the heater up to the 'Low' setting and the temp went up 10 degrees in a half hour. It doesn't seem to run very much, but I haven't spent a lot of time in the garage lately to say for sure. I actually expected to have to buy something bigger and use this one in the attached garage, but I think it's good as is. Sure was simple to install compared to going to propane (no natural gas service).
 

MrCrewcab

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Jan 6, 2008
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Great White North
The heat load with a difference in temp between outside and inside of 50 deg F is approx 40,600 BTUH. This includes a bit of infiltration load caused by air leakage around the doors and windows

KevinR
 
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