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How many garages with osb interior?

Know Wosad

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No way. No how, NEVER. I wont tolerate any of that **** around here. No more plywood either.
I'm ripping a cart apart right now that I made the idiotic mistake of making plywood drawers.
 
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Youngfd

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I like OSB with the rough side out for all my walls. I tend to hang a few signs up and sheet rock would never work for me.
 

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Catadj78

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cea855bcd67ff19991adcf67dd6bdb54.jpg

OSB on my walls


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jimchevy

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My pole barn is 24x32. I used 2x6 walls between my posts to hold r-19 insulation. I then installed OSB which was primed with oil base, seams caulked, then 2 coats of exterior paint. I'm extremely happy with it. It's very durable and was $7.35 per sheet. I used 3/4" foam panels on ceiling which were painted white. I just wanted a heat break up there and light reflection from my shop lights. :)
 

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Maddog10

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Posted mine before but I did an 8' x 16' storage shed in OSB. Two coats of kilz primer and one coat of paint covered it very nicely. I made no effort to hide the seams but it could easily be done if someone wanted to. Then used some old pallet wood around the bottom for aesthetics. I have no regrets whatsoever about using OSB. There are nicer finishes available in terms of appearance, but it's very practical and perfect for my small space where inches are valuable.

Overview:
DSC_1239_zps63joxm16.jpg


Close up of the wall:
DSC_1255_zps8av9lqmn.jpg
 

fteufert

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OSB is cheap and functional. Why do I need perfect walls in a garage?

It's a garage, not my house. Money can be spent on more important things, such as tools or parts for my car.
 

jhochst

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328d8e07e5f0b8d1d622392ec2c30f74.jpg



32x48x12, 2x6 walls fully insulted with upstairs and heat.




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laser3kw

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30 x 40 x 12 with attic space trusses over half, scissor "vaulted" truss over other half.
OSB walls and drywall on ceilings and attic space though , Kiltz primer over all and Sherwin Williams top coat. Nice and bright.
Barely notice what the walls are covered with.
 

WickedMainer

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Dec 13, 2016
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For anyone who planned to cover ceilings and walls with osb in an insulated metal building, has anyone compared the cost of building the garage with SIP panels? especially seeing the interior would be osb anyways? I never got a quote for sip panels but a guy up the road used them on his house and thought price was good. Seems this thread would be useful to anyone who plans or is looking to go that route for ideas.
 

Schurkey

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OSB walls or ceiling lights me up like using PVC for compressed air.

OSB may be "cheaper and a little stronger" than drywall, but it burns a lot better, too. If you're not paying attention to fire resistance, you'd better be paying for good insurance.

I've been down that road. I didn't like it much. Cost me tens of thousands of dollars.
 

fteufert

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For an attached garage, it will make a difference.

For my detached garage, I really don't care. If it is already on fire, it is a total loss anyway. The gas in my car and chemicals will do more damage then some more burning OSB.

BTW, I too have already had a garage burn down, with 3/4" plywood walls that never burned. No insulation caused it to act like a chimney, the same way drywall would.

It was a complete loss due to the 80 year old construction had to be brought up to code when it was rebuilt.

Insurance covered everything.



OSB walls or ceiling lights me up like using PVC for compressed air.

OSB may be "cheaper and a little stronger" than drywall, but it burns a lot better, too. If you're not paying attention to fire resistance, you'd better be paying for good insurance.

I've been down that road. I didn't like it much. Cost me tens of thousands of dollars.
 

icthruu74

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Jul 26, 2015
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Michigan
My house was built in the 50's, no idea when the OSB was put up in the garage. Unfortunately they put it all the way to the slab and it has wicked moisture up and the bottom 10" or so is falling apart. When I started pulling it down to trim off the bottom edge and set it so it doesn't touch the slab, under it is just 1x sheathing, which I'm sure will provide just as much fire resistance...

Plus there is an attic vent in the garage - a maybe 2'x2' screen panel. I guess back then they weren't worried about garage fires.
 
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pointer80

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Well after seeing all the responses about osb being unsafe in a workshop my curiosity got the best of me and I called my insurance company and they did not have a problem with osb at all. The only thing they were concerned about is having enough coverage to replace the building because I was doing some improvements with finishing off the interior. I guess I still do not understand what the difference is in a home with a wood interior such as a log cabin etc. or a shop with osb interior. After seeing all the responses to this thread I would say that osb is a common, practical garage interior choice.
 

Schurkey

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I called my insurance company and they did not have a problem with osb at all. The only thing they were concerned about is having enough coverage to replace the building because I was doing some improvements with finishing off the interior.
As I said earlier, you WILL want good insurance coverage.

I guess I still do not understand what the difference is in a home with a wood interior such as a log cabin etc. or a shop with osb interior.
Bare logs are harder to ignite than OSB. I don't know how varnish/stain on the logs or paint on the OSB might change that.

After seeing all the responses to this thread I would say that osb is a common, practical garage interior choice.
When I arc-weld, the welder throws sparks. When I use a grinder, the grinder throws sparks. Same with high-speed sanders. I have an Oxy-acetylene and a propane torch that I heat, braze, weld, and solder with. I have been known to use the propane torch to melt-out rubber control arm bushings, which throws sparks and ignited rubber vapor.

The only part of that that I do in the house is soldering of copper pipes, and I haven't done that for nearly twenty years. When I did, I had metal heat shields protecting the wood.

It is not impossible for electric motors to overheat and catch fire; I've had it happen twice on "loaner" blow-in-insulation machines, although admittedly they weren't in the garage at the time. Point being, a large electric motor on an air compressor or other device could fail and flame.

Just doesn't make sense to use OSB when "sheetrock" gypsum board is known to be fire-resistant and essentially required as part of fire code.

'Course, if you want to substitute "Durock"-style cement board, I won't object.
 

like2wheel

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I seem to remember a thread where someone made a convincing argument about fire retardant paint over OSB.
I can't find it now, but it sounded like a good alternative.
 
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marvin

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Dec 18, 2011
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Originally, my garage was all done in OSB and I never liked it as I found it very dull and drab.

Ceilings in the front 2/3 of the garage where I park the vehicles are 10' high and I 1st installed a couple feet of vinyl siding at the bottom just so I didn't have drywall constantly getting banged up.

Back 1/3 where the workbench is located is about 7' and I ran the drywall right down to the floor

004_8.jpg


I then rented a drywall lift and did the ceilings and all the walls in 1/2" sheets.

I made sure to line up all the seams going up the walls and across the ceilings and then rather than tape them I bought some nice 1 x 4 select pine and covered all the seams that way. Looks really nice that way and also adds a bit of character to the walls and ceilings.

009_6.jpg


008_1_1.jpg


008_1.jpg


I painted the walls and ceilings all white with grey trim and did the inside doors red and have since installed a new roll-up door with windows.

Made a huge difference in the garage and IMO was well worth the $$$$ and time to do it over.
 

Bears Fan

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Indiana
Mine is a 30 x 40 x 12 pole barn, I installed 1/2" OSB on all four walls, I decided not to paint it, I actually like the look of the unfinished OSB, it is also nice if you plan on hanging up a lot of stuff on the walls. I did trim it all out to give it nice finished look :thumbup: :thumbup:



dabarn%20034%20Custom_zps6voc1sae.jpg



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Tester%20052%20Custom_zpsqq7wvndt.jpg
 

Tundra

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Lisle, Ontario Canada
My pole barn is 24x32. I used 2x6 walls between my posts to hold r-19 insulation. I then installed OSB which was primed with oil base, seams caulked, then 2 coats of exterior paint. I'm extremely happy with it. It's very durable and was $7.35 per sheet. I used 3/4" foam panels on ceiling which were painted white. I just wanted a heat break up there and light reflection from my shop lights. :)
That's a gorgeous car!!!
:thumbup:
 

Jamie V

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Just doesn't make sense to use OSB when "sheetrock" gypsum board is known to be fire-resistant and essentially required as part of fire code.



'Course, if you want to substitute "Durock"-style cement board, I won't object.



So what do you do about stuff putting holes in your Sheetrock? Bump it with something, push a engine hoist into it, floor jack handle smacks it, etc?

I put 3/4" OSB on my walls so they could handle a beating plus I could hang anything I want anywhere on the wall without hitting a stud.

I'm curious how many guys have had fires in garages with OSB and had it catch on fire???
 

58Yeoman

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People really shouldn't be driving new cars, what with all that toxic plastic that will kill you if it catches fire. If the wreck doesn't do you in, the toxic plastic will.
 
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pointer80

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As I said earlier, you WILL want good insurance coverage.


Bare logs are harder to ignite than OSB. I don't know how varnish/stain on the logs or paint on the OSB might change that.


When I arc-weld, the welder throws sparks. When I use a grinder, the grinder throws sparks. Same with high-speed sanders. I have an Oxy-acetylene and a propane torch that I heat, braze, weld, and solder with. I have been known to use the propane torch to melt-out rubber control arm bushings, which throws sparks and ignited rubber vapor.

The only part of that that I do in the house is soldering of copper pipes, and I haven't done that for nearly twenty years. When I did, I had metal heat shields protecting the wood.

It is not impossible for electric motors to overheat and catch fire; I've had it happen twice on "loaner" blow-in-insulation machines, although admittedly they weren't in the garage at the time. Point being, a large electric motor on an air compressor or other device could fail and flame.

Just doesn't make sense to use OSB when "sheetrock" gypsum board is known to be fire-resistant and essentially required as part of fire code.

'Course, if you want to substitute "Durock"-style cement board, I won't object.
I would totally agree if you have the kind of shop that you do a lot of metal fab work then yes osb probably is not the kind of interior you would want. Same with around a wood stove, you would not want osb close to it. But for 90% of interiors I believe it is fine. If I was doing a lot of metal work I think steel would be the only way to go in them areas.
 

WickedMainer

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So what do you do about stuff putting holes in your Sheetrock? Bump it with something, push a engine hoist into it, floor jack handle smacks it, etc?

I put 3/4" OSB on my walls so they could handle a beating plus I could hang anything I want anywhere on the wall without hitting a stud.

I'm curious how many guys have had fires in garages with OSB and had it catch on fire???

probably only way you could handle it is to go however high up with a wainscoting where your the least likely to put holes in it. I personally prefer rough sawn lumber. downfall is not only is drywall way more work, doing this adds even more. I think its worth it the shop is attached or extremely close to a living unit.

I recall something I had read way back saying that the color of walls effects your moods and tendencies. Think the example was about mcdonalds using yellow so people wont stick around as long. If that is even remotely true, which I am skeptical, I wonder if how you finish the wall has any effect. there is, however, a whole industry around designing workspaces to improve employee moral and productivity.... whether its snake oil or legitimate that's beyond me.
 

LanjPerf

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Did you put anything up to screw the metal to or did you span the what appears to be 4' between the lower cord of the truss? Any sag to the metal?



Screwed straight to bottom chord. Worked well...no sag at all.
 
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pointer80

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Well after seeing all the responses about osb being unsafe in a workshop my curiosity got the best of me and I called my insurance company and they did not have a problem with osb at all. The only thing they were concerned about is having enough coverage to replace the building because I was doing some improvements with finishing off the interior. I guess I still do not understand what the difference is in a home with a wood interior such as a log cabin etc. or a shop with osb interior. After seeing all the responses to this thread I would say that osb is a common, practical garage interior choice.

One thing I forgot to mention that my insurance agent also told me is the outbuilding has to be at least 60 ft away from a occupied building, if not the rules are different, How I do not know as my shop is about 120 ft away from my house so it was not a concern of mine.
 

KiltLifter

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OSB and drywall were a wash fro me cost wise, so I did OSB - you can add a sturdy screw anywhere - but I still hit studs for heavy stuff. I wonder what the fire difference is though?
 

mygarageone

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i will be using Osb on our garage ceiling the trusses are 2 ft on center . What do you guys recommend for thickness ? 1/2" - 5/8" ?
 

justanengineer

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One thing I forgot to mention that my insurance agent also told me is the outbuilding has to be at least 60 ft away from a occupied building, if not the rules are different, How I do not know as my shop is about 120 ft away from my house so it was not a concern of mine.

Thats probably local fire code, many areas have ordnances saying that if an outbuilding is within **' of a dwelling it must have the same fire resistance as the house itself. Up here its 25', downstate we had to build both shops 100' away to get around the code.

My Indiana garage had honey stained wide pine paneling (think 1960s homes) installed decades ago on the walls and ceiling, gave the joint kind of an interesting look but IMHO it was a bit of a PITA in a metalworking shop. I never caught it on fire but welding and grinding embers stuck to it and smoldered and machine oil was a PITA to clean off it. USAA wanted me to pull it to meet current fire code until I went with an agreed value policy, the local inspector simply said to be careful but considered it grandfathered. My next garage is going to either be all masonry, tile, or drywall, much easier to deal with. JMO but I'd never use OSB, too flammable and looks like ***.
 

driftpin

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The NFPA has reported on studies of the use of engineered lumber in structural uses. For example, floor joists made of it failed in 1/3 the time of traditional lumber in the same use.

http://www.nfpa.org/news-and-resear...august-2009/features/lightweight-construction

Yes, I know you're speaking primarily about wall sheathing in OSB. Not structural, you don't want gypsum board because it's too-easy to break the paper covering.

The rock band Great White had a concert in Warrick Rhode Island. Their pyrotechnic display ignited an illegal unpermitted, uninspected cladding of the walls of plywood paneling and soundproofing. The fire spread so-rapidly, within two minutes the fire elevated the temperature at head-height to over 1,000 degrees F. One hundred people died. The prior show for Great White was in Boynton Beach FL. The fire marshal refused to allow their pyrotechnic show unless they did an empty building display prior to their paid performance before an audience. "It's too-expensive," said the band's manager, to the fire marshal. The local official refused to give-in. The band performed without their pyrotechnics. They packed for the road trip, and headed to Warrick, Rhode Island.

You want to do 'hot work' in your untreated OSB-interior wall clad structure, w/no sprinklers? Consider the possible consequences.

The Life Safety Code has been adopted in all 50 states, and is designed to allow occupants to have a reasonable amount of time to evacuate via means of egress, or to be able to 'defend in place,' for occupancies like nursing homes, hospitals and jails.

If you follow the local building code you will have a reasonable expectation of survivability in the event of a fire, to survive. Consider the alternative.

http://www.nfpa.org/public-educatio...sembly-occupancies/the-station-nightclub-fire

http://www.rollingstone.com/music/n...umentary-about-tragic-nightclub-fire-20151112
 
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Jamie V

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You want to do 'hot work' in your untreated OSB-interior wall clad structure, w/no sprinklers? Consider the possible consequences.


I love my OSB but I still agree with what your saying here. Un-treated wood of any kind with hot ambers or sparks hitting it is a fire hazard. My OSB it primed and painted and I have ZERO concern about it catching on fire. I'm more worried about melting my racedeck then the walls.
 

posservice

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Hello all, Just wondering how many of the members have osb walls and or ceilings in there garage/shops? I would love to see pictures if you have them. Thanks a bunch.

I just built a new building and I went with OSB again after my first garage build. Probably out of all the decisions I had to make, that was the toughest one. I screwed every panel instead of nailing. I did not paint the new OSB but the other garage I have, I primed and painted it white.

I may go with a steel wainscoting around the walls.
 

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