How many regulators do I need in this system?

[vdotmatrix]

but i really don't need another regulator in the system since i have one comming off the compressor and I thnk I just need to add a filter instead of a F/R as in the diagram.

the photo is just to show the compessor; the hose real, f/r/l and everything else is gone...


Any ideas out they-ya?

I am using the same images from another post.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Yer picture is top big to read yer text,...

Fix the post, 'n ya might get an answer,....

 

[97fordsuper]

Edit: just reread your post title. i thought your were asking about the question attached to picture

 

[pattenp]

Use a SharkBite coupling then you can slip off the filter from the solid copper pipe if needed. They have a 200 PSI rating.

 

[CNGsaves]

How big is the proposed Airline System . . . ie how many feet long ??

What material is airline system going to be made ??

Why do want a regulator right after the one on the compressor ??

What air tools do you plan on using ??

 

[vdotmatrix]

How big is the proposed Airline System . . . ie how many feet long ??

What material is airline system going to be made ??

Why do want a regulator right after the one on the compressor ??

What air tools do you plan on using ??

These are the right questions...thanks....This is my question....I see images of differnt setups and you'll see multiple regulators on differnt drops not too far from each other- I don't need multiple regulators if there is one right there on the compressor.

This will be a 1/2" copper line 10 feet that suuplies a hose reel in the ceiling.

angle grinders, staplers/ nailers....air brush sometimes...

Man I have a bag of differnt sharkbite fittings; i guess if they are water tight they'll be air tight as well. I was STUCK trying to figure out what to do if I ever had to remove the Filter, I would have to pull the line away from the wall to unscrew it...SHARKBITE would be a brilliant solution.

I removed the F/R/L to take the lubricator out of this system-too much of a hassle and split the thing so I removed the loober..

 

[nadogail]

What I would do to improve your system, on your dime.

Use larger diameter pipe for your air system, this will increase the available air to high volume using tools like sanders and angle grinders.

Placing the regulator closer to the point of use will help too.

Compressed Air is a fluid, and everything you know about water
distribution and pressure loss is transferable to your situation.

 

[vdotmatrix]

What I would do to improve your system, on your dime.

Use larger diameter pipe for your air system, this will increase the available air to high volume using tools like sanders and angle grinders.

Placing the regulator closer to the point of use will help too.

Compressed Air is a fluid, and everything you know about water
distribution and pressure loss is transferable to your situation.

Yes, I was THIS CLOSE to using 3/4" copper as I had everything I needed already but I figured for such a short run , the 1/2" copper for the 3/8" inch hose on the reel or the coiled hose I use near the compressor will give the residual pressure we hope to achieve with a 3/4" line, .......and the added cost of the 3/4" ball valves.

The SHARKBITE solution has ramped up my completion of this project. (2) issues I considered , NOW tentatively solved with SB, is titening the feeder hose in the ceiling from copper fitting to hose reel-something would have to spin and the Filter assembly at the start of the run. I won't have to spin anything ON or OFF with the shark bite - YEAH!!! I have used these guys instead of sweating pipes in confined spaces and in about 10 years NONE have failed!

thanks for the responses! everything helps tremendously and i will post images when done....

 

[sberry]

You don't need bigger pipe, the air goes down a much smaller hose in the end by a lot and you are correct that you do not need multiple regulators. You wont need more air to tools, a little less wouldn't hurt a thing. This is a small compressor and a sander will run it out of wind in a hurry.
1/2 main is ideal for these types of garages. Its way neater with widely available one step bushings and reducers. Copper is okbut I really like black to tell the truth and its the samething as I was told when I was 20,,, its they way to do it and I done it every which way different and am back where I should have started.
1/2 black is so easy to tailor and you can get the fittings tight. I see some exotic setups here and I almost cringe. Not that they wont work and not that some of it isn't a good idea but 99% of home and shop air can way simple served with a couple/few pieces of pipe and half a dozen fittings, a single regulator filter and possibly as little as 1 valve.

 

[sberry]

You could put 2 of these compressors on a 1/2 pipe line. Air doesn't have the same outlet spacing needs as outlets, you usually use a long hose and one tool at a time for the most part and home systems don't have the pump no matter how big a main its got on it.

 

[sberry]

The number one most simple way reduce psi drop is length of hose. There is a little loss but since I blast with a regulated circuit I cant tell if I am using a 1/2 or 3/8 hose really. I can still run it out of air.

 

[sberry]

Pipe it to the most convenient spot to hook reg up then to reel and or whips. Hook as much as you want to it.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Will SHARKBITE fittings work in this application or , maybe I should ask Who has used SHARKBITE fittings or their equivalent for AIR applications ?

thanks

 

[sberry]

The reason I like the cheap hyd hose from the farm store is its really quite cheap and comes in various lengths. Its cheap when you figure the convenience and the ready made fittings and a guy can swivel it for 3$. Another plus is it handles heat well if one was really baking on this I guess but I collect fittings, have a coffee can of hose barbs and remnants of hose. Even a short section of 3/8 to the pipe isn't much of a deal killer in this type of system. I like it easy and simple to change especially if I am setting up.
Many garages could benefit from some setup using hose to regulator before getting in to pipe and to tell the truth is might be something I would consider especially if was turning the valve off for the most part.
My pro of pro body Bud guy uses a thick patch of mud and hogs it off fast. He don't spend many hours sanding really.
Like painting, really can put a full coat on a car or pickup in under 10 minutes, sometimes maybe less. A pro can do body work on 3 hp. There is only small occasions for lag in the whole process of finishing a car, really a matter of a few minutes vs 5 hp.
There is a huge boost to sandblast from 3 to 5 and a burnin flat rate type can make a paycheck with 5 hp in common body refinish etc.

 

[sberry]

Neither place will 1/2 vs 3/4 matter in circuits less than 100 ft and even less in more common 60 ft length.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Use a SharkBite coupling then you can slip off the filter from the solid copper pipe if needed. They have a 200 PSI rating.

have you ever used SB? I broke down and went to their website and saw the FAQ:

Q: Can I use SharkBite fittings for anything other than potable water (e.g, air, gas, oil, etc.) applications?

A: No, fittings are only certified for potable water installations.

CRAPTACULAR!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

All Done Thanks