DPG
Well-known member
Our structural engineers specify no more than the thickness of the nut.
Depends onthe kind/grade of bolt,some bolts don't like being stretched.
It's the part where things snap off and going flying after the bolt gives that I'm concerned about.
Especially with harder grade bolts.
Finn has it right. *ALL* bolts stretch when tightened. It is related to the torque, but torque is a poor indicator of actual stretch since other variables influence it: friction of threads, friction under bolt or nut face, material(s) being bolted together, as examples. But torque is easy to measure and works for most applications to get proper clamping load. Clamping is what a bolted joint does, it holds the pieces together with spring force that is a result of elastic modulus (E) of the bolt. Most bolts being steel the elastic modulus is approx 30E6 psi (30 million psi). Doesn't matter on the strength of the bolt, E does not change with heat treat. Higher strength bolts do have less plastic deformation (stretch, work hardening) than lower strength, but the higher strength bolts have higher yield. Almost all bolted joints use the bolts in the elastic deformation range, meaning returns back to original length when unbolted. Torque to yield bolts are designed to yield slightly, this is because that value of clamp load is very consistent bolt-to-bolt. It takes torque variability out of the process. Equal clamping load is a good thing for most joints with multiple fasteners.Bolt clamp load is the result of stretch. Without stretch and spring rate, you have no clamp load.
The NHRA three thread rule has nothing to do with actual load on the clamped joint. It’s simply an easy visual check to insure lug nuts aren’t missed during the installation of the wheel.NHRA say 3 for lug nuts ?
Finn has it right. *ALL* bolts stretch when tightened. It is related to the torque, but torque is a poor indicator of actual stretch since other variables influence it: friction of threads, friction under bolt or nut face, material(s) being bolted together, as examples. But torque is easy to measure and works for most applications to get proper clamping load. Clamping is what a bolted joint does, it holds the pieces together with spring force that is a result of elastic modulus (E) of the bolt. Most bolts being steel the elastic modulus is approx 30E6 psi (30 million psi). Doesn't matter on the strength of the bolt, E does not change with heat treat. Higher strength bolts do have less plastic deformation (stretch, work hardening) than lower strength, but the higher strength bolts have higher yield. Almost all bolted joints use the bolts in the elastic deformation range, meaning returns back to original length when unbolted. Torque to yield bolts are designed to yield slightly, this is because that value of clamp load is very consistent bolt-to-bolt. It takes torque variability out of the process. Equal clamping load is a good thing for most joints with multiple fasteners.
3 threads past nut !I’m doubting myself. Is it three threads past the nut for full strength? Thanks
I was have used this..my dad said it should stick out at least the diameter of the bolt. Personally I think 3 would be Adequate but in my work I see a lot of tapered bolts. So… more needs to stick out.Just a thought here. Nuts can be of varying thickness (jam nuts, nylock nuts, castle nuts, etc.) for several reasons so the number of threads past the nut doesn't sounds like a very consistent standard unless (hold your laughter) your nuts are consistent. In the machine tool industry we used 1-1/2 times the diameter of the bolt/screw for thread engagement for a quick rule of thumb. Perhaps just 1 X the minor thread diameter (or perhaps even the thread pitch diameter) is sufficient but we used 1-1/2 times the major diameter because it was easier to quickly calculate and eliminated any partial formed threads or c'sinking.
-It seems that I haven't worded my reply very well. The machine tool industry rule of thumb applies to how many threads are actually engaged, not how much is protruding past a nut. So if you have a 1/2" diameter fastener (bolt, screw, etc.) then there should be 3/4" of thread engaged. If the nut being used, particularly the thinner jamb nuts, is less than 3/4" thick then some scrutiny for the application is in order. Yes I know most of the standard nuts out there are only 1 times the diameter, some estimation of the application applies here. Any threads protruding past the nut don't do anything for strength at all, it's all about how many threads are actually engaged against other threads.I was have used this..my dad said it should stick out at least the diameter of the bolt. Personally I think 3 would be Adequate but in my work I see a lot of tapered bolts. So… more needs to stick out.
According to Shigleys 1-2 threads past the end of the bolt. According to AISC minimum is flush but structural code for bolting is also primarily concerned with different loading patterns than mechanical applications.
This is very good news for the fellow in the other thread who's car lift got installed with some of the nuts still proud of the ends of the anchors.No. Any spec that requires 2 or 3 threads beyond the nut is basically just doing it for "good practice". It allows for easy visual checks, and guarentees you are passed any "lead in" or partially formed threads.
I forget the specifics, but in general due to friction and stretch of the bolt, the first couple of fully-engaged threads inside a nut carry the majority of the load. You can achieve the maximum clamping capacity of a bolt without it even going all the way through the nut.
Really? Tapered BOLTS? What spec is that? I have never seen tapered threads for anything other than water, air, or hydraulic plumbing. And none of those are structural fasteners.in my work I see a lot of tapered bolts. So… more needs to stick out.
In some automotive applications the start of the threads is a tapered spiral. My hypothesis is that these bolts make it so that on a fast moving assembly line you need only get the nut somewhere close to the spinning bolt for it to pick-up the threads and start to tighten. More common to see them holding on a body panel with some form of fixed female thread. In this case I guess the purpose is to get the bolt started when the bolt holes don't align perfectly. Again in a fast paced assembly line.Really? Tapered BOLTS? What spec is that? I have never seen tapered threads for anything other than water, air, or hydraulic plumbing. And none of those are structural fasteners.
Self tappers? Some of the larger hex headed ones are beyond what I would consider screws.Really? Tapered BOLTS? What spec is that? I have never seen tapered threads for anything other than water, air, or hydraulic plumbing. And none of those are structural fasteners.
I think those beehive type bolts are actually an extreme version of a self tapper. GM once used them for body assembly. They screw into a relatively thick plate.In some automotive applications the start of the threads is a tapered spiral. My hypothesis is that these bolts make it so that on a fast moving assembly line you need only get the nut somewhere close to the spinning bolt for it to pick-up the threads and start to tighten. More common to see them holding on a body panel with some form of fixed female thread. In this case I guess the purpose is to get the bolt started when the bolt holes don't align perfectly. Again in a fast paced assembly line.
Yes. Maybe. Perhaps. Probably not.Sooooo… are the capped lug nuts gonna come flying off my car or not?![]()
If you were a joint designer, you'd also know that lock washers are not relics. They work in certain applications, and do not work on other applications. Hardened steel housing with 12.9 grade high tension preloaded bolts? Yeah, they're only a potential failure point in such cases. Classic lock washers are perfectly fine for non-preloaded bolt assemblies. When you just snug up a bolt. Like if you want to fasten a sheet metal plate to a massive welded steel frame. You can't properly use preloaded bolts in such applications (not enough flange thickness, it would require you to use really small diameter fasteners that complicates stuff way too much).You don’t need a stretch gauge. Thats just how bolted joints work. The joint designer understands that. The farmer or mechanic likely doesn’t, through no fault of their own.
Lock washers fell out of favor for critical joints fifty or more years ago. They’ve relics, used where the designer doesn’t really understand how bolted joints work.
How many lock washers do Cat and Deere, for example, use in the construction of modern products?
This is also false. Bolts stretch. The first few threads hold the force, anything beyond a certain point makes no difference at all unless the first few threads already fail (at which point, the rest will fail too if you want the same clamping force - of course if the first threads fail, the clamping force will drop cause the bolt will be able to stretch further). The truly effective threads are in the ballpark of ~2 thread diameters - e.g. on an M10 screw, I'm quite certain 20mm of thread engagement will be enough to transfer all the force the thread is capable of transferring (probably even something like 1.5 thread diameter, so ~15mm, would be enough). And even at that, the load on the threads drops, the first 3 or 4 engaged threads take up the bulk of it, everything beyond that isn't helping that much. That's why standard nuts are not very thick, they're chosen as the best compromise for most strength in the smallest length. I think their length is around 70-80% of the thread diameter.Most standards specify full thread engagement. Obviously, the more engagement you have, the more likely the optimal strength of the fastener is met. Each thread that is engaged, the stronger the threaded joint is .


I would also guess that if you can see 3 threads, then that is also a good indication it hasn't been cross-threaded. on coarser thread nuts&bolts where someone sticks the wrong nut on a bolt, like metric on SAE, I've seen it spin on two rotations before it finally jams on the 3rd rotation.The NHRA three thread rule has nothing to do with actual load on the clamped joint. It’s simply an easy visual check to insure lug nuts aren’t missed during the installation of the wheel.
If the inspector doesn’t see at least three threads, his suspicions that the wheel isn’t properly attached are raised.
They could have just as easily said ten threads, or one, and it wouldn’t change wheel retention. Three is enough for a visual flag that something is wrong.
What you are seeing is the plastic deformation from severe over tension loading. Long before you reach those plastic limits, materials (in this case fasteners) stretch elasitcally, not only in the area between nut and bolt head, but inside of the threaded area of the nut. It is this elastic deformation that typically loads the first 3 threads of a consistent nut and bolt joint. The thread deeper in aren't loaded because the bolt is no longer being "pulled" by the threads past the first 3 (in which each of the threads in the NUT must deform elastically to carry their load). It is that very forgiving nature of materials to be stressed and strained within their elastic limits that makes them so predictably and useful.Y'all must be using some crappy taps, most or maybe all of the stretched bolts I've removed, the stretched part is between the bolt had and where the female thread came to. Dozens and dozens of head bolts come to mind.
