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How much am i talking for mineral wool insulation?

Hobby_Man22

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So i got my hvac system installed, the next step obviously is the indldulation. I'm going to do mineral wool insulation and will do a retrotlfit for my red iron steel building. I'm going to go with what the hvac guy recommended which is R19 on the walls and R30 on the roof. So that's like 6" on the walls and 9" on the ceiling. The framing is like 7.75" wide so I guess they can install slightly more than the width of the cross members. I only got one quote done at and he only wanted to do closed cell spray foam at like a dollar per sq ft per inch thick. I said no thanks.
 
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meathooker

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Iowa
In my Mech room I did 2” closed cell with mineral wool over it. Hoped to keep it quiet as the house is on that same side of the shop. Seems to work well.

On the rest of the shop I did 2” closed cell and just get a quote for fiberglass blow in over it.

Might want to look at something like that if you’re looking for good sound characteristics and saving some $$$
 
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Hobby_Man22

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Meathooker it's my understanding the closed cell is the most expensive insulation their is. I'm just going to do 100 percent mineral wool then i'll probably screw osb to the wall framing and that should add more of a sound barrier.
 

rebelranger

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Review/reconsider your preconceived notion that mineral wool is a good/ best sound inhibitor. The evidence will show fiberglass does just as good of a job. For sound inhibition you really need decoupling and mass. I have no issues with any type of insulation but just make sure you get evidence from real world tests not the manufacturer of the product.
 

AP514

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How about Blown in Cellulose...
I did it on my STEEL FRAME HOUSE.
Great R-Value (3.45-3.7 per Inch)and Sound Deadening.
My house is R30 walls and R40+ Ceiling.(Ceiling is Loose blown in Fiberglass-non itchy)
I had them do a 6" interior wall that separated the bedrooms from the living room.
I can play a Movie at a Good sound late nights and the kids never even move.

You can have additives added to the insulation like Bug Control, Fire Retardant, Mold,
Binders to prevent settling.(coming up on 17 years and no settling)
 
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Hobby_Man22

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Find another spray foam guy.

Review/reconsider your preconceived notion that mineral wool is a good/ best sound inhibitor. The evidence will show fiberglass does just as good of a job. For sound inhibition you really need decoupling and mass. I have no issues with any type of insulation but just make sure you get evidence from real world tests not the manufacturer of the product.

Im probably going to install osb siding over the insulation, so that should give me decoupling and mass.
 
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Hobby_Man22

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How about Blown in Cellulose...
I did it on my STEEL FRAME HOUSE.
Great R-Value (3.45-3.7 per Inch)and Sound Deadening.
My house is R30 walls and R40+ Ceiling.(Ceiling is Loose blown in Fiberglass-non itchy)
I had them do a 6" interior wall that separated the bedrooms from the living room.
I can play a Movie at a Good sound late nights and the kids never even move.

You can have additives added to the insulation like Bug Control, Fire Retardant, Mold,
Binders to prevent settling.(coming up on 17 years and no settling)

6" is only R19-21 How do you calculate R30?
 
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jvitez

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Big Sky Country, Canada
I've used Rockwool insulation in two shop/garages, and other than closed cell spray foam I wouldn't use anything else. Main benefit is it's impervious to water, also non-combustible. Pour a cup of water on it and the water runs right off. Put a lighter to it and the flame goes out within a few seconds. Try that with fibreglass! Rockwool makes a thermal insulation called Comfortbatt and a sound insulation called Safe'n'Sound, but the Comfortbatt is a great sound insulator in and of itself. It also comes in wood stud or steel stud versions, including a 7.25 inch thick version rated to R30 in the US, which sounds like exactly what you need. I'd put as much insulation in as the wall thickness would allow. You only do this once!

In your Texas heat you would need an air/vapour barrier on the exterior of the walls. Is there any housewrap under your siding?
 
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Hobby_Man22

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I've used Rockwool insulation in two shop/garages, and other than closed cell spray foam I wouldn't use anything else. Main benefit is it's impervious to water, also non-combustible. Pour a cup of water on it and the water runs right off. Put a lighter to it and the flame goes out within a few seconds. Try that with fibreglass! Rockwool makes a thermal insulation called Comfortbatt and a sound insulation called Safe'n'Sound, but the Comfortbatt is a great sound insulator in and of itself. It also comes in wood stud or steel stud versions, including a 7.25 inch thick version rated to R30 in the US, which sounds like exactly what you need. I'd put as much insulation in as the wall thickness would allow. You only do this once!

In your Texas heat you would need an air/vapour barrier on the exterior of the walls. Is there any housewrap under your siding?

No it's a red iron steel building.
 
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Hobby_Man22

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That means it would be $6000 to do just the ceiling rated at R30 1500 sq ft. 4" of closed cell foam.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
One issue I see is that Roxul (what I installed and thus my experience) is setup for either 16" or 24" oc wood framing 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8.

I think in your area it likely won't be stocked BUT you might be able to order full pallet quantities from Home D or Lowes (etc). Unless it has changed, Roxul has the number of square footage per bag printed.

Are you going to setup your OSB ceiling and then put Roxul (etc) over top of that? If so loose fill cellulose is going to be a heck of a lot cheaper and it has good dampening in 9-10" thickness. I know that doesn't help you in the walls though.

I really like the Comfortbatt, I'd never use fiberglass ever again. Fits tight and difficult to overcompress if you understand the design thickness. A lot less itchy too.
 

My Old Tools

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Hamrick Lake, TX
I've used Rockwool insulation in two shop/garages, and other than closed cell spray foam I wouldn't use anything else. Main benefit is it's impervious to water, also non-combustible. Pour a cup of water on it and the water runs right off. Put a lighter to it and the flame goes out within a few seconds. Try that with fibreglass! Rockwool makes a thermal insulation called Comfortbatt and a sound insulation called Safe'n'Sound, but the Comfortbatt is a great sound insulator in and of itself. It also comes in wood stud or steel stud versions, including a 7.25 inch thick version rated to R30 in the US, which sounds like exactly what you need. I'd put as much insulation in as the wall thickness would allow. You only do this once!

In your Texas heat you would need an air/vapour barrier on the exterior of the walls. Is there any housewrap under your siding?

Nope, vapor barrier goes inside here.

I would go with standard metal building plastic backed fiberglass. It's fine for the purpose. My building is very quiet. It's available in extra wide rolls that make use on metal buildings easier.
 
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AP514

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Pearland, Tx
6" is only R19-21 How do you calculate R30?
If you Read the Post below you will see that is an Interior Wall my Extirior walls are over 8"
Originally Posted by AP514 View Post
How about Blown in Cellulose...
I did it on my STEEL FRAME HOUSE.
Great R-Value (3.45-3.7 per Inch)and Sound Deadening.
My house is R30 walls and R40+ Ceiling.(Ceiling is Loose blown in Fiberglass-non itchy)
I had them do a 6" interior wall that separated the bedrooms from the living room.
I can play a Movie at a Good sound late nights and the kids never even move.

You can have additives added to the insulation like Bug Control, Fire Retardant, Mold,
Binders to prevent settling.(coming up on 17 years and no settling)
added a PIC of the interior wall in attic. That spray is over 8" there. They did not scalp the spray from the studs..
 

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DC73

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Lubbock TX
Because it gives both good R value and it is the best sound barrier out of all of the different insulating methods.

It's also fire resistant and blocks the flow of air through it much better than fiberglass. I did my entire shop in mineral wool. But, to save costs, I only put one layer of mineral wool above the ceiling drywall at the same R-value as the walls and then put rolls of fiberglass above that to achieve the total R-value.

DC
 

DC73

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What did it run you per sq ft per inch for the mineral wool?


This was about 5 years ago. I used R-15 Roxul. I had about 2300 sq. ft. of wall and ceiling to cover. The total cost of the mineral wool was just under $1400. I was going to get it from Lowe's but the local 84 Lumber made me a better deal.

My notes show that Roxul was about a 15% premium to R-13 fiberglass at the time but the mineral wool was plus 2 on the R-value along with its other benefits. It was worth it to me.

DC
 
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