How much do you trust Liquid Nails?

[Brad54]

I'm converting my girlfriend's 2-car garage into a hot rod shop for the next two years... I'm setting everything up to be productive and efficient, so I'm actually setting it up first before moving all my tools and equipment in.
Power washed the floor and walls yesterday, going to paint the walls and ceiling white this weekend, having an electrician drop a sub-panel in two weeks, and then I'll run power to more lights and electrical boxes everywhere.
I'm also going to put up a bunch of white pegboard.

The walls I'm putting the pegboard on are brick.
Drilling all those Tapcon holes for the furring strips sounds about as enjoyable as a root canal.

Does anybody have any thoughts on putting up the 2x2 strips with Liquid Nails and a few Tapcons?

Would it be smarter to use the liquid nails on the bare, unpainted brick?

-Brad

 

[Blueboy7]

If you ever want to take down the pegboard, getting that liquid nail off will be a PITA
A good hammer drill and a nice sharp bit would be my choice.

 

[rlitman]

Depending on the brick, a ramset might work well.

Again, removing this at a later time will not be pretty.

 

[RWorth]

Ditto that, you're talking small holes, a small hammer drill will drill quickly. And brick is usually pretty soft.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I would use tapcons into the mortar. You might be surprised how well they will hold. Then you could just touch up the mortar joints if you ever take the boards down. - this is assuming you aren't hanging 100's of LB worth of tools from pegboard

 

[roushracing617]

^^^ This
It's how I do it, works well ,easily removed or modified. Doesn't leave a mess behind. Hammer drill and sharp bit are key. Not hard at all.

 

[Jack Olsen]

A decent hammer drill and a few good bits should make this fairly quick.

Aside from that, there are much better adhesives than Liquid Nails.

 

[Brad54]

I won't ever be taking it down... I suppose someone in the future might, but it won't be my problem then.
I don't mind drill a couple tapcons... but I'm going to put up a 4x8, and three 4x5 sheets, plus another remainder on the last wall. I won't be putting hundreds of pounds of stuff on it, but I'm not planning on hanging styrofoam cups either.

I've always liked mechanical fasteners for things, so I've never really looked at adhesives. What are some better adhesives?

-Brad

 

[Falcon67]

I did a whole house with paneling over damaged drywall using liquid nails. If they ever want to change the look of the interior, it'll have to go down to the studs.

 

[Pathfinders]

Go with tap cons. Liquid nails will be a pain in the ***. Frame out the area with 2x4s secured with tap cons and screw the pegboard to the2x4s.

 

[csp]

Another vote for tapcons. I installed wainscoting on a brick fireplace and had to install 1x4 furring strips on to attach the MDF wainscoting material. Even with 80 holes to drill for the tapcons it really wasn't that bad.

Be sure to get the countersink head tapcons.

 

[LXCam]

How much do you trust Liquid Nails?

I wouldn't fly in a plane glued together with it......



And I wouldn't do what you're planning on either. You've already gotten good advice as attaching it to the brick or the mortar is pretty easy. But I got to ask is this her home or a rental?. If it's a rental I really wouldn't glue it up.

 

[Kev442]

After paint, it would only be as strong as the paint...

 

[theoldwizard1]

A decent hammer drill and a few good bits should make this fairly quick.

Yep. Rent one it you have to.

Depending on how much weight you are going to be hanging, there is a faster, cheaper method than use Tapcon. Plastic wall anchors. If what you are hanging is not to heavy and your furring strips are <24" apart, use the plain vanilla ones with #10 sheet metal screws. Space them about 6" apart at the top and as you work you way down you can open the spacing to 12" and then 24".

If you don't think they are strong enough, move up to ITW-Redhead #12 Poly-Set Plug Anchors. Still much cheaper than Tapcons. They hold >350# of tension in concrete or concrete block. I have used them in wet areas with stainless screws. Rock solid.

Aside from that, there are much better adhesives than Liquid Nails.

PL Premium.

 

[rustyjames]

Shouldn't need a hammer drill for brick, just a masonry bit in a regular drill. But, Tapcons don't really hold so well in brick, and not that great in the mortar joints either.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Tapcons or Ramset, no particular order.

Tommy

 

[theoldwizard1]

Shouldn't need a hammer drill for brick, just a masonry bit in a regular drill.

You might be able to muscle a couple of holes in 5 or 10 minutes, but a hammer drill will make a hole in seconds.

But, Tapcons don't really hold so well in brick, and not that great in the mortar joints either.

Another reason to use plastic anchors.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Every one has said hammer drill but the correct and best drilling is an SDS drill that is a hammer drill but drills a lot better than a hammer drill. I have a 1/2" Milwaukee hammer drill and after getting a SDS dewalt drill have not tried to use the hammer drill except as a regular drill since. Drilling and using anchors is a lot easier than having to clean up the mess of liquid nails left if you ever remove the furring strips.

 

[bdamico]

use Toggler Alligators (similar concept to redhead discussed above) instead of tapcons. You will be happy you did. And don't waste time with the liquid nails

 

[matt_i]

I put in a couple hundred tapcons into the concrete footer to hold my ICF foundation base together. No problem with a Hilti TE5 SDS rotary hammer plus a hex socket in an impact driver. I would just counterbore the furring strips slightly with a paddle bit to create a place for the hex + socket.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Every one has said hammer drill but the correct and best drilling is an SDS drill that is a hammer drill but drills a lot better than a hammer drill.

SDS are great especially if you are making holes >3/8" or are working in concrete with reasonable sized aggregate.

The problem is they are expensive ! A lot more than an average homeowner would shell out !

 

[rburke65]

Tapcons are easy to install and are easily removable if necessary.

 

[rharman]

Tapcons and 1x2 would be my choice. I don't see the advantage of a 2x2 furring strip.

I wouldn't be uncomfortable with the plastic anchors that theoldwizard1 mentioned.

 

[manwithtools]

Tapcon's, 5/32" SDS bit and done in seconds per hole. Get the Phillips head tapcon's and no need to counter bore like matt_i had mentioned. I prefer the hex heads for larger loads, but for your application the 3/16" Phillips should be just fine. Most of you load is shear and 1 x 2 furring strips should be fine as well.

SDS drills can be rented or borrowed, you can buy decent one for $250 or less.

All that being said, I hate peg board on a shop wall, have you really thought this through and are convinced you need peg board?

 

[Moose97]

My opinion...buy a nice rolling tool chest and forget the pegboard! That **** *****!

 

[grindliner]

Yep. Rent one it you have to.

Depending on how much weight you are going to be hanging, there is a faster, cheaper method than use Tapcon. Plastic wall anchors. If what you are hanging is not to heavy and your furring strips are <24" apart, use the plain vanilla ones with #10 sheet metal screws. Space them about 6" apart at the top and as you work you way down you can open the spacing to 12" and then 24".

If you don't think they are strong enough, move up to ITW-Redhead #12 Poly-Set Plug Anchors. Still much cheaper than Tapcons. They hold >350# of tension in concrete or concrete block. I have used them in wet areas with stainless screws. Rock solid.


PL Premium.

+1 on the plastic ITW anchors. I avoid tapcons at all costs. Way too many times I have them break before they're in all the way. SDS bits and guns are the way to go, I use Hilti at work, but prefer Bosch guns for wall work as they're lighter.

If you plan to take it down, don't glue it. Depending on your budget, you can kill multiple birds with a $700 stone with that 60" Milwaukee work bench @ the depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-60-in-11-Drawer-and-1-Door-22-in-D-Mobile-Workbench-with-Adjustable-Height-Sliding-Pegboard-Back-Wall-Red-and-Black-48-22-8560/206696096

 

[nhdiesel]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that brick puts off a lot of dust and deteriorates a lot. Before expecting an adhesive to hold to it, you'll have to wash the brick, then wash it with a good acid etch. Otherwise you'll find the pegboard on the floor with a thin layer of brick dust still stuck to the adhesive.

A simple cordless hammer drill like a Makita will quickly drill the holes needed for a mechanical anchor.

But as a past professional mechanic...I'd agree with Moose97 above. Skip the pegboard and go with a chest. Pegboard offers little storage for the space it takes up. And while it looks organized, it is actually annoying to use after a while. I have tried it before but ended up taking it all down and buying another tool box.

Jim