How much garage for $35k?

[bldgengineer]

I don't have time to build it myself so I need at least the structure, floor and outside complete with doors. I have 35k saved up just for this and it's taken me years to get here. My essential needs are:

200 amp service minimum
3 full service bays
12 ft height minimum(would like 16)
6/12 roof
4 in concrete slab (6 in preferred)
Tall bay doors
r12 Iinsulated walls(not necessary since I can put this in afterwards
I'd like radiant heat in slab but it's not necessary
Evenly spaced windows on 3 walls with a man door
I'll also most likely need a breeze way from the garage to the house (zoning regs)

what do the experts think?

 

[Yeager]

What is your desired size? I know the question is "How much can I get for...", but letting people know what you are after (or what you can physically fit) would be helpful in getting better responses

 

[koditten]

What do you need 200a service for? Are you running a buisiness? How big.

35k is about what I got into my 24 x 32. Are they going to let you build bigger than 800 sqft?

For that money around here, you should be able to get all that you listed.

 

[bldgengineer]

What is your desired size? I know the question is "How much can I get for...", but letting people know what you are after (or what you can physically fit) would be helpful in getting better responses

I would be VERY happy with 40x60

 

[koditten]

Location would help a bit as well. Maybe update your profile. More responses may occur if someone from your area sees your location.

 

[bldgengineer]

What do you need 200a service for? Are you running a buisiness? How big.

35k is about what I got into my 24 x 32. Are they . ing to let you build bigger than 800 sqft?

For that money around here, you should be able to get all that you listed.

200 amp service Iis what I would need to maintain service for my welders, air compressor and future lift and future equipment with lights and outlets. I can basically build as big as i want as long as it's attached to my house (the breeeway) and my house and it doesn't take up more than 70% of my land. I'm on almost 3 acres.

I should probably clarify. I can't have more than 70% impervious land so that would include buildings, paved driveways, patios, decks, pools, etc. Right now I have my house and my deck and an unpaved driveway. The house and deck take up about 3000 sqft of my land. my land is approx 121,000 sqft (almost 3 acres)

 

[bldgengineer]

Location would help a bit as well. Maybe update your profile. More responses may occur if someone from your area sees your location.

Done. For some reason i thought it was already in there. Sorry about that.

 

[hicketts]

I would say finished price, framed shell and with out much site work you. You should be able to do 32x55'ish. I used Shirk Pole Buildings out of Lancaster, for the shell and doors, and I was satisfied. I you have any questions I be glad to answer.

http://www.shirkpolebuildings.com/

 

[rburke65]

Why are you not contacting a local builder or three or a lumber yard to draw you up some ideas and a material package for starters. They may even have a list of guys they work with to come out and look over your property and give you a price. For myself and from experience, go with the 40'x 60 pole barn and you and you can finish the more as you go. $35K is a he'll of a start. Or have you thought about a pole barn foundation and then a stick built garage/shop. If you are going to finish it on the inside anyway, this is what I did. Good luck.

 

[Zeke]

I would be VERY happy with 40x60

What kind of construction? Pole construction attached to the house might be difficult. I can't say much because I'm in a city in CA. But I don't see much being built for 35K in the size you indicate.

 

[jgira12]

On my home the attached 3.5 car garage portion turned out to be $25/sq. ft....to me that was a bargain...unheated space, but it has drywall, and it is insulated.

 

[bldgengineer]

Actually most of the pole builders here recognize that we need a mechanical connection to the house to get the size we are looking for and i have contacted pole builders. Most are looking for 20-25k for the structure only. I am trying to find out a finished product.

 

[brownbagg]

eight years ago, my 24x36x 10 cost me a couple dollars over $5000, that with concrete slab

 

[BellyUpFish]

$35k will get you 4 walls, 100A service, attic trussed roof and a 6" slab in the 30'x40' dimensions where I'm from.

 

[buildyourown]

200 amp service Iis what I would need to maintain service for my welders, air compressor and future lift and future equipment with lights and outlets.

If you are primarily working alone, you won't need that much. You can't run everything that the same time.
Worst case, you're compressor kicks on when you're welding. That's 60a?
I can't imagine how you would pull more than 100a alone.

 

[CNGsaves]

On my home the attached 3.5 car garage portion turned out to be $25/sq. ft....to me that was a bargain...unheated space, but it has drywall, and it is insulated.

^ ^ Pretty useless information without any LOCATION . . . . rural China much different pricing than the Hamptons !! Update GJ Profile so others will know.

OP . . . likely cheaper to have 200A electric service to the house, then 100A subpanel in the attached garage (ie by breezeway). This should be more than adequate for one person.

Also, you forgot LIFT . . . . new build like that NEEDS a lift so overbuild the concrete thickness to handle a lift, that is planned in advance to work with radiant floor.

+1 to do drive-a-round in your area to see what neighbors have done, and possibly find out the actual builders used. You may even have business that builds pre-fab walls offsite that can easily be put together onsite after foundation/slab is finished.

Pricing varies by location, so surrounding builds will have most influence on what your money will buy in Maryland.

 

[bazzateer]

You may even have business that builds pre-fab walls offsite that can easily be put together onsite after foundation/slab is finished.

This is essentially what I had done, albeit smaller than your plans. The basic structure (walls/doors/roof) were assembled in a factory to my specifications and then erected on my pre-prepared base by 3 guys in 2 hours.

My costs etc are irrelevant in this case as I'm a few miles east of your location!

But that method of construction makes for a very swift erection........and who doesn't like one of those?!

 

[macdabs]

I don't have time to build it myself so I need at least the structure, floor and outside complete with doors. I have 35k saved up just for this and it's taken me years to get here. My essential needs are:

200 amp service minimum
3 full service bays
12 ft height minimum(would like 16)
6/12 roof
4 in concrete slab (6 in preferred)
Tall bay doors
r12 Iinsulated walls(not necessary since I can put this in afterwards
I'd like radiant heat in slab but it's not necessary
Evenly spaced windows on 3 walls with a man door
I'll also most likely need a breeze way from the garage to the house (zoning regs)

what do the experts think?

I know your dreaming! You mentioned zoning regs and you live in Maryland. The excavation plan submittal and engineering will eat half of your budget before you pick what size of building you want. The concrete is on average $120.00 a yard , add rebar an labor your done.
I hate to be a dream wrecker but unless your houses in your neighborhood are all 3500 sq ft and sell fro less than 100k you can't build a 2400 sq ft garage for 35K. The 3 doors you want at 12' x 12' are close to 5k for anything with R value that will last. The trusses on a 6/12 vs 4/12 including the sheating to give you the ceiling height and shingles our 1/2 your budget .

Go to Lowes and start adding your material list. Like I said I hate to be a dream wrecker but you need more homework or a smaller wish list.

Good Luck,
Mac

 

[famous187]

I just had the following built in Southern Indiana, just to give you a reference:



30x50x12
Concrete Slab 4"
Approx 400sqft Concrete Slab between barn and driveway
20x10 commercial garage door, insulated
1 x service door
3 x windows
3/4" Thermal 3-HT on sides and roof
My permits were $600 , including a height variance
It also cost me an extra $500 to have the concrete pumped from the street
Also, due to the how uneven my site was, I had to have about $1,200 worth of rock
All in all I'm right at 30k right now and thats with no electric

 

[Showkey]

I know your dreaming! You mentioned zoning regs and you live in Maryland. The excavation plan submittal and engineering will eat half of your budget before you pick what size of building you want. The concrete is on average $120.00 a yard , add rebar an labor your done.
I hate to be a dream wrecker but unless your houses in your neighborhood are all 3500 sq ft and sell fro less than 100k you can't build a 2400 sq ft garage for 35K. The 3 doors you want at 12' x 12' are close to 5k for anything with R value that will last. The trusses on a 6/12 vs 4/12 including the sheating to give you the ceiling height and shingles our 1/2 your budget .

Go to Lowes and start adding your material list. Like I said I hate to be a dream wrecker but you need more homework or a smaller wish list.

Good Luck,
Mac

+2 ........I was thinking attached to the house .............makes the excavation, footing, foundation walls and slab at least $20k project. I did that 20 years ago in Chicago suburbs and spent $7.5k on that portion on half that sq ft.

 

[wssix99]

I would be VERY happy with 40x60

On your budget, you should be thinking about a much smaller structure. BTW - High ceilings also will drive up the cost.

$35K for 2400 square feet would be $15 per square foot. That is not possible. For an unfinished space, you should be thinking around $35 per square foot.

200 amp service Iis what I would need to maintain service for my welders, air compressor and future lift and future equipment with lights and outlets.

You don't need a 200A service. You may need 200A of breakers on your panel, but you don't need a 200A service. The only time you would need the 200A service is if all those things were on and running at the same time. (Like in a business.)

You can put your 200A of breakers in the panel with a 100A main breaker and 100A service and you'll be just fine. As long as you don't have an instantaneous load over 100A in the garage, you won't need a larger service.

BTW - With the metering charges, you may be better off upgrading your house service and running a subpanel out to the garage. You probably pay extra for each bill that comes from the electric company.

 

[Kevin54]

I was going to have a 28'x30' added on along with a 24' x 7' on the side. No electric, no insulating, no drywall. no nothing inside. And they wanted $37,000+ which I know is high for around here. I fired the guy and hired another at the recommendation of a good friend, plus the guy has built all of the houses in the 'hood around here and does a great job. I imagine he will beat the price by about $5,000-$7,000. I have about $45,000 for the addition, and that includes changing siding and the roofing. the side addition, I will build myself once the foundation is in. It's just three walls, windows, and a couple of trusses. I was hoping that he could have gotten started but he was finishing up another house, so it's too cold now for anything. We'll hit it this Spring.

 

[Catadj78]

I am doing a 40x40x10 pole barn. 3 roll ups. Concrete. 2 windows and entry. Building it myself but subbing out concrete and leveling but ill end up with right at 20k for everything. Electrical, plumbing etc. Building kit was 9k something. All metal including trusses

 

[CHUNKER]

I've built over 450-buildings(75% steel buildings) in the DC Metro area and here are some APPROXIMATE costs per my experience for a non-commercial homeowner shop;

Post/Frame building package: $7-10psf
Concrete slab: $4-6psf
Overhead doors: $10psf
Walk door and framed opening: $350-500
Window and framed opening: $225-450
Insulation: $2psf (end wall, side wall and roof)(Material and labor)
Gutters and downspouts: $5plf
Erection labor: $5psf

Hope this helps and my first post.

 

[jgorm]

I'm just over $42K for a 25x33x16' metal building. That includes the plumbing rough in for a bathroom ($900), no insulation, no electrical, and no interior work so far.

 

[goneflyin2002]

I've built over 450-buildings(75% steel buildings) in the DC Metro area and here are some APPROXIMATE costs per my experience for a non-commercial homeowner shop;

Post/Frame building package: $7-10psf
Concrete slab: $4-6psf
Overhead doors: $10psf
Walk door and framed opening: $350-500
Window and framed opening: $225-450
Insulation: $2psf (end wall, side wall and roof)(Material and labor)
Gutters and downspouts: $5plf
Erection labor: $5psf

Hope this helps and my first post.

Excellent info and great first post.
Thanks for that and welcome.
I find your numbers are pretty much bang on in this area. My 40x50x12.5 with steel inside and out, radiant floor, Veissmann boiler, great lighting etc was all done at just under $70K Canadian.

D

 

[Conner]

I used to live in Pasadena, MD, which would be the same or similar labor pool to where you live. I built a garage there about five or six years ago, so these numbers are out of date, but should be in the neighborhood with some inflation adjustments.

I built an oversized 2-car garage, 24x24 with an 8x16 foot bump-out on the back for workbenches and work area. 704 square feet.

The foundation was block on poured footings below the frost line, with a 4" slab. That was $12k to get up to grade. I got multiple bids and all were in this range. The electrical, which included extending existing service to a new 100-amp sub-panel, ample fluorescent ceiling lights, exterior lights, plenty of 110 plugs, and two 220-volt plugs, was about $6k.

So that's $18k right there. I did the rest of the work myself including framing, siding, roofing, trim, fiberglass insulation, drywall hanging and finishing, garage doors, and painting. The materials for the rest of the building were in the $7-8k range.

All-in it was around $25k for 704 square feet with me doing much of the work myself over the better part of a year. I got quotes for a turn-key building with the same finishes in the $50-$65k range, which is why I did so much work myself. Again, this was 5-6 years ago, so I would figure costs are up 10-20% since then.

It's an expensive area to build a garage.

 

[Radix2]

Bldgengineer- are you certain about the definition in your area for "attached". Sounds like I am in a similar situation as you are - if I attach to the house, basically anything goes size,height. If detached, must be less than 2000 sq ft, and no higher than the house (ranch...). I don't at all see what the heck they are trying to accomplish with these rules..

But a key issue is that "attached" means that the new structure must share a wall defining living space - so breeze ways are not allowed to count ( if used it would be detached).

I know alot if the zoning verbiage is shared across the country, so you may want to verify if you haven't already.

Sounds like a great project, I'll be keeping a lookout !

 

[BellyUpFish]

I built an oversized 2-car garage, 24x24 with an 8x16 foot bump-out on the back.

It's an expensive area to build a garage.

Sounds like it. I had my 24x24 built and bricked to match the house with 100A panel and 1 - 110v outlet no interior work for $18,000 including the extra concrete pour to meet the driveway.

 

[rburke65]

CHUNKER....a quick mental check and you are right on with the gutters and downs and the garage door estimates and building package. And welcome from Ohio!

 

[tms0425]

Bldgengineer- are you certain about the definition in your area for "attached". Sounds like I am in a similar situation as you are - if I attach to the house, basically anything goes size,height. If detached, must be less than 2000 sq ft, and no higher than the house (ranch...). I don't at all see what the heck they are trying to accomplish with these rules..

But a key issue is that "attached" means that the new structure must share a wall defining living space - so breeze ways are not allowed to count ( if used it would be detached).

I know alot if the zoning verbiage is shared across the country, so you may want to verify if you haven't already.

Sounds like a great project, I'll be keeping a lookout !

We're planning one like that right now. The local zoning requires the "breezeway" to be "conditioned space" i.e. hvac, closed and insulated walls to qualify as attached.

 

[ForceFed70]

Location makes a big difference.

32x40x12 with 12' attic trusses cost me $70,000
That was for a nicely finished garage - stick build, drywalled, R20 insulated, 2" insulated doors, 5" slab. I did more than 1/2 the work myself.

Concrete was the single biggest expense. I needed to get 1 wall engineered as a retaining wall and the engineer decided to go stupid overkill with the design. For me, concrete alone was $26,000 and it was just the basic rectangle garage pour with 1 thick and extra-reinforced wall.


General rule of thumb: Concrete will typically be 1/3 to 1/2 of total cost depending on how the garage is finished. Get some quotes and you'll get a feel from there as to what your final cost will be.

And as always: When you come up with your estimate, add another 25%. Unless you are a professional contractor, there will be surprises and items that cost more than you think. Just ask any GJ member.

 

[ForceFed70]

You don't need a 200A service. You may need 200A of breakers on your panel, but you don't need a 200A service. The only time you would need the 200A service is if all those things were on and running at the same time. (Like in a business.)

Agreed 100% Unless you have some pretty unique requirements or are running a business (2 or more people working at same time) then 100A is plenty.

 

[600SL]

I don't have time to build it myself so I need at least the structure, floor and outside complete with doors. I have 35k saved up just for this and it's taken me years to get here. My essential needs are:

200 amp service minimum
3 full service bays
12 ft height minimum(would like 16)
6/12 roof
4 in concrete slab (6 in preferred)
Tall bay doors
r12 Iinsulated walls(not necessary since I can put this in afterwards
I'd like radiant heat in slab but it's not necessary
Evenly spaced windows on 3 walls with a man door
I'll also most likely need a breeze way from the garage to the house (zoning regs)

what do the experts think?

27K got my friend a 24x30x10, stick construction with 8' doors, no electricity, no insulation, on a 4" slab in NC.

 

[600SL]

Agreed 100% Unless you have some pretty unique requirements or are running a business (2 or more people working at same time) then 100A is plenty.

The recommended circuit breaker for my Square wave 175 TIG welder is 125 Amps. Granted its an old machine but its also a small machine. And I have also used it very successfully in my old 100 amp garage with a 70 amp breaker. But if you air condition your shop and want to use that welder with lights on you will need 200 amps.

 

[ForceFed70]

The recommended circuit breaker for my Square wave 175 TIG welder is 125 Amps. Granted its an old machine but its also a small machine. And I have also used it very successfully in my old 100 amp garage with a 70 amp breaker. But if you air condition your shop and want to use that welder with lights on you will need 200 amps.

That's a BIG welder for a home shop. He'd still be able to run the AC, the lights, and that welder - so long as he's not trying to weld 1/2" plate. If it ever comes up, I'm sure the AC could be turned off for a few min.

 

[Samh]

If you are primarily working alone, you won't need that much. You can't run everything that the same time.
Worst case, you're compressor kicks on when you're welding. That's 60a?
I can't imagine how you would pull more than 100a alone.

That's a BIG welder for a home shop. He'd still be able to run the AC, the lights, and that welder - so long as he's not trying to weld 1/2" plate. If it ever comes up, I'm sure the AC could be turned off for a few min.

My welder runs off a 100a breaker. I would go with 200a service, then not have to worry about it later.

 

[ryan77]

I'm getting quotes of 25k for a 30x64x14 pole barn in southern IN with a 5" concrete floor, no electric or water.

 

[wssix99]

My welder runs off a 100a breaker. I would go with 200a service, then not have to worry about it later.

The recommended circuit breaker for my Square wave 175 TIG welder is 125 Amps. Granted its an old machine but its also a small machine. And I have also used it very successfully in my old 100 amp garage with a 70 amp breaker. But if you air condition your shop and want to use that welder with lights on you will need 200 amps.

For new construction, buying a new welder will be far less expensive than maintaining an oversized service over time and operating a mine and smelter to get all the copper it will take to run wire for a 100A outlet.

A 240V 100A service should be able to handle any reasonable welder the OP would need.

 

[bigredmf]

I can't imagine the key cost driver if this project is the difference between a 100 and 200 amp service

Go with the 200 you will be glad you did

Red


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