How much slope can Sikaflex handle?

[DynoDave]

I've read quite a few threads about people using Sikaflex to fill the expansion joints in their driveways. So I picked up a couple of tubes.

Reading the instructions on the tube, it emphasizes to use it on FLAT surfaces, and never on a SLOPE.

I've hardly ever seen a driveway or garage approach that was 100% flat...there's always some pitch for drainage. My approach has some. I'm not built on the side of a hill, but there's some. I can measure it if it helps for the sake of discussion.

Anyone have any idea just how much angle this stuff can handle without "running"?

 

[wosh]

I don't recall that stuff ever running

 

[Wood'nMetal]

Sikaflex Urethane? Like the flag's colors...it don't run!

 

[WQ59B]

It does if installed vertically! It was recommended in a truck reefer box to help install stainless panels (about 8" tall x 8' long) by the fabricator company (panels were sheet metal screwed on also). It ran out the bottom seam, and it's impossible to get off once dried (short of a grinder & gross indifference RE the surface you're grinding on).

 

[SALIV8]

There's different styles of sikaflex. I've used the self leveling stuff before and it runs like crazy if not level. But it's pretty good stuff.

 

[StingRay]

Sikaflex is like saying Chevrolet. You need to be more specific. We use Sika products extensively at work and I have a good background in the industrial stuff. We use no less than 4 different products in the Sikaflex line. There should be a number or other information on the exact type of Sikaflex. We use some so thick that we have to heat to get it to dispense properly. They have flowable self levelling stuff too.

 

[HairMetal]

I used to do industrial floors and all kinds specialised concrete repair work for a living.If it's running you can mix in some ''tixo''.Tixotropic agent used to thicken it.You should of course really read all the instructions and know what your doing so you know what youre dealing with because some of these chemicals are tricky depending on weather or really specific in how they work.I used to use a lot of Sika stuff, basically anything we needed for different applications.

 

[soapii]

There's different styles of sikaflex. I've used the self leveling stuff before and it runs like crazy if not level. But it's pretty good stuff.

X2

--Joe

 

[redeeps]

How much slope are we talking about? How big of an expansion joint? Which way do the joints run? Which sikaflex did you buy?

 

[vartz04]

You need sikaflex 2cns. It's a no sag product. That's what I filled my garage floor cracks with. You will have to order it online or from a contractor supply place.

 

[DynoDave]

Sikaflex is like saying Chevrolet. You need to be more specific.

Here's the only Sikaflex product of this type that my local Home Depot had in with their other cement products. I should have known there were other varieties of the product, but was just happy to be getting around to this project...finally!

How much slope are we talking about? How big of an expansion joint? Which way do the joints run?

Well, I attempted to measure that the only way I could think of....4 foot level laying up/down the slope, and my Craftsmen angle gauge sitting on top. This was the result.

That's about 1*. Feels/looks like more, but I measured in 3 spots. So let's say my measurement is 100% off, and it's 2*?

There are three sizes/types of joints.

One is fairly wide...maybe a 1/2 inch, which is the outer limit of this product. It's the gap between the garage slab, and the cement approach. I'm treating the approach. Had some of that black fiberboard stuff in it. It's already in poor shape in my opinion, so I've cut the top of it off, and want to seal it with this, or a similar, product. That joint runs across the approach...no slope.

The second is a control joint made with a trowel. This one is also probably in the neighborhood of 1/4 - 1/2 inch wide. Unfortunately, these run down the approach, with the slope.

Lastly there are saw cut (1/8" or so) control joints that run across the slab, so no slope on those.

 

[mtmgtz]

That's about 1*. Feels/looks like more, but I measured in 3 spots. So let's say my measurement is 100% off, and it's 2*?

There are three sizes/types of joints.

One is fairly wide...maybe a 1/2 inch, which is the outer limit of this product. It's the gap between the garage slab, and the cement approach. I'm treating the approach. Had some of that black fiberboard stuff in it. It's already in poor shape in my opinion, so I've cut the top of it off, and want to seal it with this, or a similar, product. That joint runs across the approach...no slope.

The second is a control joint made with a trowel. This one is also probably in the neighborhood of 1/4 - 1/2 inch wide. Unfortunately, these run down the approach, with the slope.

Lastly there are saw cut (1/8" or so) control joints that run across the slab, so no slope on those.

I really doubt 1 or 2 degrees is going to affect the product at all.

 

[soapii]

The self leveling stuff can handle that amount of slope, it shouldn't be an issue for you Dave.

Side note....is your shop still open in Brownstown? I was there years ago when Jerry was tuning a friends vehicle. Hope all is well.

--Joe

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks guys. I think I'll proceed with this product and see what happens. I'm going to try and get some sand into the joints tonight, then I can open one of the 2 tubes, and at least fill the joints running cross-slope. From there, I should start to get a feel for what it will and won't handle. Might even put a little in a tail end of one of the sloped joints as a test.

I'll let everyone know how this works out.

soapii...you have me confused with someone else I'm afraid.

 

[soapii]

soapii...you have me confused with someone else I'm afraid.

I'm very sorry. There used to be a shop owner named "Dyno Dave" that had a place in Brownstown. Apparently I jumped to conclusions.

--Joe

 

[SikaUS]

If you have any degree of pitch in your driveway, I would not recommend using the Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant. It is extremely flowable and will definitely pool, causing an inconvenience. A better option is Sikaflex Construction Sealant limestone color or Sikaflex Mortar Fix, if you want a sealant with more of a texture. Link for Sikaflex Construction Sealant and Link for Sikaflex Mortar Fix

 

[DynoDave]

Well, SikaUS is the winner! Glad you're a member, but, a little too late for me.

But not to worry. It came out well. For my first time using the stuff, and using it on a slope against the instructions, I am pleased with the results.

Filling the bottom of the control joints with sand to a depth of 1/4 - 1/2 inch, per instructions.

Nice, dry sand. It flowed into those cracks so well. Sadly, in Michigan, in October, you can't find a lot of bags of sand at the local big box. The few bags they had left were soaking wet. So I had to take a 3x4 steel pan meant to catch oil drips under the car, spread the sand out on it, and dry it with my heat gun. Then scoop it all off into a bucket to be used. This ridiculous process took several extra days, with my fall weather getting colder all the time.

The rest was just like a big caulking job. It came out well almost everywhere.

But SikaUS and anyone else who predicted it would run, was right. At the bottom of a 20 foot slope, where I used a little patch of Gorilla tape to seal the ends of the joints, 2 out of the 3 joints ran up and over the tape a little. Looks worse than it is. Strangely, none of the rest of those joints look "low" from the material running. When I go to remove the tape, a little shave with a utility knife and it will be good enough.

It's not a 100% perfect job, but it's 95% better than it was, which is good enough for me. After 5 years, I'm just happy to have it done.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Now to seal the slab....

 

[CT2012]

out of curiosity, by are you sealing expansion joints? just for looks?

 

[DynoDave]

Mostly to prevent decay. I'm in Michigan, and the winter snow melt flowing into those cracks at the bottom of the joints, then re-freezing, and breaking the cement apart....hoping to slow/prevent that process. In the summer, no weeds, and no erosion of the sand/gravel base underneath.

If it looks better (I think it does), that's a bonus.

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice job DynoDave !!

How much sand did you put in the groove??

Any backer rod used or just sand??

 

[DynoDave]

Thank you.

I thought about backer rod, but ran into two problems.

One, I had three different sized joints to fill...garage floor to approach, trowel made control joints, saw-cut control joints. The second problem was the local Home Depot only had one size of rod, and it was pretty beefy. It "might" have worked on that largest gap between the garage floor and approach, but it was semi-filled with an old felt / tar paper / fiber board like substance, which was breaking down. I didn't mind taking the time to cut a 3/4 of an inch off the top of that while cleaning out all the joints, but to go deeper to make room for that larger rod would have been an even bigger pain. And it never would have worked the control joints.

All this work (pressure washing, patching, scraping out joints, filling with sand, sealing) was very hard on my old office-worker body, especially my knees. I took the time to do what I thought was right, but was not anxious to take any more time than required.

So I did it all with sand. Had to go back and re-fill a handful of spots where the sand ran down in further after sitting, or after a rain shower. But only a few, and not much sand at all. Just wanted to eliminate all gaps that the Sikaflex might seep through. And it worked well.