How Much Weight Can Wall Studs Hold? Need to Order Wall Cabinets

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

About to order some wall cabinets and I'd like some that can handle some weight, if needed. Example - these are fairly stout, but they weigh 88 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2RG7JM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 . Once filled with stuff, they will be well over 100 lbs.

Anyone have any idea what type of load a traditional 2x4 can hold? House has regular wood 2x4 construction, 12" centers.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[DFB]

I would think it be more dependent on the length, size and type of the mounting hardware for pull out and sheer than compressive strength of the wood 2x4

With extremely heavy weight a cleat support maybe required to help support the load

 

[bulletpruf]

Found this in a google search:

"A nail in just drywall can't hold more than a few pounds of weight, but a thin nail in a wood stud can typically hold up to 20 pounds and several coarse threaded wood screws in wood studs can typically hold up to 100 pounds or more."

That sounds about right.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

If you mount the cabinets on either unistrut or a french cleat system spanning several studs you will be fine. I have 6 heavily loaded Gladiator cabinets mounted side by side on two sections of unistrut in my shop and have had no problems.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

That answers the question of how much can you hang on a fastener but the bigger question is how much deflection will it produce in the wall and more importantly, how much can you tolerate and most important, how much can the structure tolerate.

For your own tolerance it would mainly depend on the finishing and what's on the other side of the wall. If it bows out toward the suspended load it will crack drywall and if bad enough be visible from an adjacent finished area.

From a structural point of view, if it is a load bearing wall and you bow the studs, there will be a tipping point where it will no longer carry the load applied from the top. In most cases this shouldn't be an issue but if for example this supports a mezzanine in your shop and you store heavy items on top there is a possibility of reaching this loading. If it is an outside wall supporting rafters there are a lot of forces at play, somewhat fewer with trusses. Safer to stay closer to the corners than in the middle of the wall and best to make sure the bottom plate is anchored.

If you know a framer or builder who can look at the entire structure I'd ask for advice before you start hanging more than a few hundred pounds per 8ft of wall. Just my opinion and of course, I'm just a mechanic.

 

[ford33]

It's a good question. I will leave it to the structural engineers here to determine a solution.

I have from experience learned that spreading the load of the cabinets across multiple studs and if possible to the ceiling or floor helps a great deal. There are two load paths here. The shear load of the cabinet sliding down the wall. The other load is a moment load or tension pulling the cabinet away from the wall.

Many fasteners specifications talk about shear loads such as how large a picture can I hang on a wall. They don't always state the pull-out load of the fastener. I can hang a 100 lb picture on the wall but I cannot hang a 100 lbs picture 1 foot away from the wall.

My 24" tall x 24" deep x 96" wood wall cabinet is supported by a 2x4 inside the cabinet top and another across the bottom of the cabinet and this is screwed to each wall stud using high quality structural screws. I have the top of the cabinet screwed to the ceiling joists. I have seen some cabinets installed with a small chain attached to the top front of the cabinet and then attached to a ceiling joist. A small chain holds a large amount of weight and keeps the cabinet from tilting downward and pulling away from the wall.

Sorry, I cannot answer the question about how much weight will a wood wall hold.

 

[GMCGarage]

Fellas -

About to order some wall cabinets and I'd like some that can handle some weight, if needed. Example - these are fairly stout, but they weigh 88 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2RG7JM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 . Once filled with stuff, they will be well over 100 lbs.

Anyone have any idea what type of load a traditional 2x4 can hold? House has regular wood 2x4 construction, 12" centers.

Thanks!

Scott

I ran a quick calc, and assumed you would max out the weight capacity.

A #2 stud, 8' tall, SYP can hold about 350lbs with your cabinet fully loaded. Based on this, you need to fasten your cabinet to 2 studs.

This is a theoretical calculation, following code allowablws, but the stud obviously can hold more, but by calculation this is the capacity. Your fastener will need to have about 100lbs tension and 175lbs shear capacity combined (based on 24" spacing top to bottom. SPAX screws would be my recommendation.

 

[DFB]

Many fasteners specifications talk about shear loads such as how large a picture can I hang on a wall. They don't always state the pull-out load of the fastener. I can hang a 100 lb picture on the wall but I cannot hang a 100 lbs picture 1 foot away from the wall.

I have a few calc charts in one of my old construction manuals that gives some allowable lateral and pull out values in lbs for D sized common nails and then wood screws size by number size. Values are dependent on wood species groups and specific gravity density (dry)

From the chart something like standard grade SPF lumber, and eastern white pine groups III & IV specific gravity .38-.42

Something like a 16D nail has rating of like 20-25lbs pull out with a lateral load of like 75lbs max, vs a #10 screw @ 80-90 lbs and lateral of between 90-100

 

[MoonRise]

For reference, go look in your (or almost anyone's home) kitchen.

See the kitchen cabinets? Fastened to the wall studs? With ~100 pounds of dishes and glassware in them?

Fasten adjacent cabinets together (if possible) to spread the load out to multiple studs. Fasten the cabinets to multiple studs if possible. Use a 'decent' screw (NOT a drywall screw!!!) to fasten the cabinets to the studs.

And Scott, most construction has the 2x4 wall studs spaced 16" on center, and a lot of 'recent/modern' construction may have those wall studs spaced 24" on center. 12" on center for wall studs is not too common. Possible, but not too common.

Unless you are talking wall racks holding steel plate/bars or engine blocks, most of the time for a 'cabinet' as long as it spans and is fastened to more than one wall stud and uses decent screws (did I mention to NOT use drywall screws? ) you usually don't have to worry about it.

Want a bit of overkill? Mount horizontal 2x4's at the top and bottom of the cabinet mounting areas. Screw those 2x4's to the wall studs with the SPAX or GRK or similar 'structural' screws. Flat 2x4 is 1.5" thick plus add the drywall thickness (might be 1/2" or 5/8" most commonly, unless it is a 'firewall' from an attached garage to the house and then it might be double 5/8" drywall) plus at least 1.5" of actual 'attachment' depth into the actual wall stud, so you will need about a 4" long screw to actually reach into the wall stud. Mount your cabinets to those 2x4 mounting strips using the SPAX or GRK or similar screws. Your cabinets will be 1.5" away from the drywall, but those mounting strip 2x4's will be SOLIDLY mounted to multiple wall studs and you then don't have to even 'worry' about trying to get a screw through the cabinet and lined up into the edge of a wall stud.

http://www.spax.us/en/power-lags.html

A 1/4" diameter SPAX PowerLag screw has a shear strength of about 766 pounds and a tensile strength of 1169 pounds. The wood will fail before that.

https://www.icc-es.org/wp-content/uploads/report-directory/ESR-1782.pdf

 

[Toolfool]

The shear strength of your fasteners is more important than your stud load capability. Screws through the top and bottom of each cabinet into each stud will be fine. Pre-drill your cabinets and use these : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OEJULG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bulletpruf]

I would think it be more dependent on the length, size and type of the mounting hardware for pull out and sheer than compressive strength of the wood 2x4

With extremely heavy weight a cleat support maybe required to help support the load

I would use drywall screws Just kidding @MoonRise!

I'd actually use good quality coarse thread wood screws.

If you mount the cabinets on either unistrut or a french cleat system spanning several studs you will be fine. I have 6 heavily loaded Gladiator cabinets mounted side by side on two sections of unistrut in my shop and have had no problems.

Ok, either a French cleat or unistrut makes sense. Thanks

That answers the question of how much can you hang on a fastener but the bigger question is how much deflection will it produce in the wall and more importantly, how much can you tolerate and most important, how much can the structure tolerate.

For your own tolerance it would mainly depend on the finishing and what's on the other side of the wall. If it bows out toward the suspended load it will crack drywall and if bad enough be visible from an adjacent finished area.

From a structural point of view, if it is a load bearing wall and you bow the studs, there will be a tipping point where it will no longer carry the load applied from the top. In most cases this shouldn't be an issue but if for example this supports a mezzanine in your shop and you store heavy items on top there is a possibility of reaching this loading. If it is an outside wall supporting rafters there are a lot of forces at play, somewhat fewer with trusses. Safer to stay closer to the corners than in the middle of the wall and best to make sure the bottom plate is anchored.

If you know a framer or builder who can look at the entire structure I'd ask for advice before you start hanging more than a few hundred pounds per 8ft of wall. Just my opinion and of course, I'm just a mechanic.

It's an interior wall. Our formal dining room is on the other side. I won't tolerate much deflection in the garage, and the Long Haired General won't tolerate any deflection in the house.

No mezzanine in the shop to worry about.

Thanks

It's a good question. I will leave it to the structural engineers here to determine a solution.

I have from experience learned that spreading the load of the cabinets across multiple studs and if possible to the ceiling or floor helps a great deal. There are two load paths here. The shear load of the cabinet sliding down the wall. The other load is a moment load or tension pulling the cabinet away from the wall.

Many fasteners specifications talk about shear loads such as how large a picture can I hang on a wall. They don't always state the pull-out load of the fastener. I can hang a 100 lb picture on the wall but I cannot hang a 100 lbs picture 1 foot away from the wall.

My 24" tall x 24" deep x 96" wood wall cabinet is supported by a 2x4 inside the cabinet top and another across the bottom of the cabinet and this is screwed to each wall stud using high quality structural screws. I have the top of the cabinet screwed to the ceiling joists. I have seen some cabinets installed with a small chain attached to the top front of the cabinet and then attached to a ceiling joist. A small chain holds a large amount of weight and keeps the cabinet from tilting downward and pulling away from the wall.

Sorry, I cannot answer the question about how much weight will a wood wall hold.

Thanks for the input. I have 12' ceilings so screwed to the ceiling joists isn't really an option. Using a chain or cable does have some merit, but I don't think I'm going to be approaching the weight limit.

I ran a quick calc, and assumed you would max out the weight capacity.

A #2 stud, 8' tall, SYP can hold about 350lbs with your cabinet fully loaded. Based on this, you need to fasten your cabinet to 2 studs.

This is a theoretical calculation, following code allowablws, but the stud obviously can hold more, but by calculation this is the capacity. Your fastener will need to have about 100lbs tension and 175lbs shear capacity combined (based on 24" spacing top to bottom. SPAX screws would be my recommendation.

Yep. Figure #2 YP. But they're 12' tall instead of 8. I'll check out SPAX screws.

I have a few calc charts in one of my old construction manuals that gives some allowable lateral and pull out values in lbs for D sized common nails and then wood screws size by number size. Values are dependent on wood species groups and specific gravity density (dry)

From the chart something like standard grade SPF lumber, and eastern white pine groups III & IV specific gravity .38-.42

Something like a 16D nail has rating of like 20-25lbs pull out with a lateral load of like 75lbs max, vs a #10 screw @ 80-90 lbs and lateral of between 90-100

Definitely using screws here. I got away from nails many moons ago. Thanks

For reference, go look in your (or almost anyone's home) kitchen.

See the kitchen cabinets? Fastened to the wall studs? With ~100 pounds of dishes and glassware in them?

Fasten adjacent cabinets together (if possible) to spread the load out to multiple studs. Fasten the cabinets to multiple studs if possible. Use a 'decent' screw (NOT a drywall screw!!!) to fasten the cabinets to the studs.

And Scott, most construction has the 2x4 wall studs spaced 16" on center, and a lot of 'recent/modern' construction may have those wall studs spaced 24" on center. 12" on center for wall studs is not too common. Possible, but not too common.

Unless you are talking wall racks holding steel plate/bars or engine blocks, most of the time for a 'cabinet' as long as it spans and is fastened to more than one wall stud and uses decent screws (did I mention to NOT use drywall screws? ) you usually don't have to worry about it.

Want a bit of overkill? Mount horizontal 2x4's at the top and bottom of the cabinet mounting areas. Screw those 2x4's to the wall studs with the SPAX or GRK or similar 'structural' screws. Flat 2x4 is 1.5" thick plus add the drywall thickness (might be 1/2" or 5/8" most commonly, unless it is a 'firewall' from an attached garage to the house and then it might be double 5/8" drywall) plus at least 1.5" of actual 'attachment' depth into the actual wall stud, so you will need about a 4" long screw to actually reach into the wall stud. Mount your cabinets to those 2x4 mounting strips using the SPAX or GRK or similar screws. Your cabinets will be 1.5" away from the drywall, but those mounting strip 2x4's will be SOLIDLY mounted to multiple wall studs and you then don't have to even 'worry' about trying to get a screw through the cabinet and lined up into the edge of a wall stud.

http://www.spax.us/en/power-lags.html

A 1/4" diameter SPAX PowerLag screw has a shear strength of about 766 pounds and a tensile strength of 1169 pounds. The wood will fail before that.

https://www.icc-es.org/wp-content/uploads/report-directory/ESR-1782.pdf

I loves me some overkill, so the 2x4 idea appeals to me. Also would be simple to execute, which appeals to me even more. Thanks for the input.

EDIT: forgot to mention that I'm pretty sure the house is on 12" centers. Saw them when the drywall was removed for some wiring. Having said that, I didn't measure, and my eyeballs haven't been calibrated in a while, so they could be 16". But definitely not 24".

 

[DFB]

Well if your not against strapping material across your studs that's the way I'd go with these heavy metal cabinets

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wsdd/AWC-WSDD1986-ViewOnly-0301.pdf


That's a pretty good paper. Should answer some of your questions. Traditional lumber is typically very strong in tension or compression. Compression is easy, tension gets a little complicated due to fastener limitations.


You should worry about fastener shear and pull-out much more than compression of the 2x4 studs... or "bending" or "pulling the wall down". You'll tear out or shear the fasteners far before you'll pull a wall down. If you are really worried about pulling down a wall then put a post/stud under the cabinet.

 

[DFB]

https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wsdd/AWC-WSDD1986-ViewOnly-0301.pdf


That's a pretty good paper. Should answer some of your questions. Traditional lumber is typically very strong in tension or compression. Compression is easy, tension gets a little complicated due to fastener limitations.


You should worry about fastener shear and pull-out much more than compression of the 2x4 studs... or "bending" or "pulling the wall down". You'll tear out or shear the fasteners far before you'll pull a wall down. If you are really worried about pulling down a wall then put a post/stud under the cabinet.

Excellent find dude

 

[JazzBlueRT]

I mounted my cabinets using the Craftsman Versa Track. Each versa track is connected to 3 studs with 2 2-1/2 "cabinet screws." I lined up 3 4ft versa tracks and mounted 4 x 28inch Craftsman wall cabinets. I bolted the cabinets together on the sides.

The equivalent of the cabinets is these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...-Steel-Wall-Mounted-Garage-Cabinet/1000756394

Is this setup study enough to hold cordless power tools and other moderate weight stuff.

Also, will the vibration from my subwoofer on the inside wall eventually loosen up the screws?

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

As above, a wall can hold plenty. Pick a good fastener and don'to over think it.

 

[MeentSS02]

Don't overthink this. Pictured are my Lista cabinets - those uppers are steel, and are ~100 lbs each by the spec sheet.

They mount using steel tracks - one at the top, and one at the bottom of the cabinets. The tracks are pre-drilled with holes that are 1" apart so you can hit the studs. I hit all possible studs, and used 3" lag screws. No issues whatsoever. I can even post the mounting instructions if you are so inclined. You just have to distribute the load as well as you possibly can.

 

[DFB]

I mounted my cabinets using the Craftsman Versa Track. Each versa track is connected to 3 studs with 2 2-1/2 "cabinet screws." I lined up 3 4ft versa tracks and mounted 4 x 28inch Craftsman wall cabinets. I bolted the cabinets together on the sides.

The equivalent of the cabinets is these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...-Steel-Wall-Mounted-Garage-Cabinet/1000756394

Is this setup study enough to hold cordless power tools and other moderate weight stuff.

Also, will the vibration from my subwoofer on the inside wall eventually loosen up the screws?

Well using the calcs from my old books a #8 wood screw in SPF graded framing lumber is good for about #75 max both sheer and pull out.

Screws mainly loosen from the wood drying out not boom music

 

[jetnow1]

12 foot wall with 2 by 4 studs is pushing it, if you have 12 on center that may be why.
It would also change the calculations as the loads would be further from the end of the studs. Wall should have been framed with 2 by 6 studs, but you probably have nothing to worry about.

 

[logical]

They are holding up your entire roof. As far as vertical load on the studs, if you use the right fasteners there is nothing you and a partner of your choice can lift without a forklift that will be too heavy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Rickster55]

I think your worry about wall deflection is unfounded. If anything, look at your fastener and/or cabinet structure failure as a source for movement of the cabinets. YMMV

 

[Handyfarmer]

a sheated stud wall can hold up three or four stories of building above it, I an sure it can hold your cabinets up, if the cabinets are properly fastened to to the wall, I am sure you could put bricks in them if wanted,

 

[Burl]

Screw a 2 X 4 cleat under the cabinet, this will help.

 

[6PTsocket]

Speead the load. Get into as many studs as possible. I put up a rail that that takes different hooks and is in several studs and have a tractor lift hanging from it. No problem. I think there are two #8 x 2 1/2" screws in each stud. 100 lbs should not be a problem, spread out over several studs. Try and get more than one screw in each stud.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[ZRX61]

Horror story time..


When I bought my old place back in '97 there was a shelf unit built from 6ft 2x10's. Vertical piece at end & 3 shelves. (2x6ftx10in)

I took it down when I paneled the wall with T1-11. That's when I discovered the back piece was 1/4in luan that was attached to the 2x10's with 2in brads & the whole thing was fastened to the wall by more 2in brads through the luan. There was no direct connection between the 2x10's & 4 wall studs.

I've no idea how the hell it stayed attached to the wall. I swapped out the luan for a piece of 3/4in ply with 3in screws & then attached the unit through the T1-11 into the studs with 3in lag bolts.


I should point out the guy I bought the house from was an aerospace engineer for Northrop... He also poured a 600 sq ft slab for a garage extension which took close to 25 yards of concrete...

 

[bulletpruf]

All -

So the NewAge Pro tall wall cabinets showed up a few days ago and I got them installed today. The kit came with french cleats to hang the cabinets with and they also recommend a few more lag bolts per cabinet into the studs. Installed the first one and it felt really sturdy, so I just went with the factory hardware.

Since the cabinets are 28" wide and the garage studs are on 16" centers (thought they were 12" but I was mistaken) I was able to get cleats secured into two different studs for every cabinet.

Cabinets are rated for 200 lbs each, and I doubt I'll ever approach that, so I think I'm good. Appreciate all the input!

Scott

 

[dittle fart around]

That sounds good but it didn't happen without pictures. Photographic evidence is required.

 

[bczygan]

Use good fasteners.


You'll be fine.


Bill

 

[MoonRise]

Now post some pictures of all this garage goodness.

 

[bulletpruf]

It's still a wreck; with all of the stuff in the way you can hardly see the cabinets. Hope to have it uncluttered by the end of the day. Pics to follow.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

@angelbanks - thanks for resurrecting this thread!

Here are pics of my cabinet install (please excuse the mess) -

 

[PoorUB]

I have cabinets in the garage with four screws holding each one to the wall. At one time one cabinet had 300 pounds of paint and other chemicals in it with no issues.

 

[rayra]

Quality non-chinesium fasteners are more important than uninformed concerns about the stud breaking strength. The wall is plenty strong enough for your cabinets.

I'd still suggest a french cleat attachment method. Helps spread the load. Makes for a much easier mounting solution, too.

All the high cabinets on this wall and everything in and on top of them is hanging on continuous twin sets of french cleats, cut from 2x4s ripped diagonally on a tablesaw. The 2x4x8' cleats are spanning the wall studs and screwed into each with GRK structural screws.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Anyone have any idea what type of load a traditional 2x4 can hold? House has regular wood 2x4 construction, 12" centers.

Standard construction is 16" on center.

Most of it depends on the fastener used. Pull out is no a useful measure meant. What you want is shear force.

We have kitchen cabinets that have about 300lbs of stoneware and glasses hanging on 3 3" drywall screws !