How not to crack my driveway?

[JasonF]

My property is narrow and very deep so to get to the rear of my property where the my pole barn build site will be I cut a drive through my woods down the side of my property. This drive splits off of my main drive to my attached garage which is all cemented in.
You probably already see where I'm going with this, I have a feeling I may be ok with the excavation equipment getting in and out without cracking my driveway buy eventually the cement trucks are going to have there way with my existing drive when it comes time to pour. Is there anything I can do to lessen the potential damage to my concrete drive?
I have no other access to the rear of my property other than this drive I put in. I looked in to just cutting a temporary path to the road to connect to my drive but the trees are all massive in that area and I don't want to lose them. I bought the house so I don't know how the driveway was prepped or how thick it is, assuming 4". The yard grade comes right flush to the cement edge so there isn't a drop off the existing concrete.

 

[buzz4041]

Can you rent a pumper and just lay hose instead of driving trucks back there. You didn't mention how far it would be.

 

[06 DIESEL]

There are several options, and without knowing more about your property layout I can just give you them all and you can chose which works best for you.

Run light loads in the concrete trucks, 5-6 yards instead of 9-10.
Rent a concrete pump and pump the concrete into the driveway.
Place mud mats or steel plates on the existing driveway to protect it.

If it was me I would go with the steel plates and lighten the loads to 7 yards.

 

[JasonF]

The barn will be approx 400' from my main driveway so I think the pumper is out. Where would one go about getting steel plates at?

 

[raceman17]

The barn will be approx 400' from my main driveway so I think the pumper is out. Where would one go about getting steel plates at?

Call the concrete company and ask for their suggestions. You are not the only person who has had to deal with this issue.

 

[LutzTD]

3/4" plywood along the edges, especially anywhere they will go off or on the drive. also build up any low spots in the off and on with gravel so the plywood is level over the transition. I would also limit the trucks to 5 yards as metioned earlier. definitely dont let them use a mix on site truck as those are usually a lot more weight, (and other reasons not to) Take a lot of before pictures of the drive and make sure your GC knows you want the driveway protected. It will cost him more so you more, but still cheaper than a driveway fix. My guy did it the first time but got lazy and ended up destroying the end of my drive by the street, first few trucks were 5 yards or less but he let a mix on site back loaded to 10 yards. I would also be careful to mark where they can drive and where they cant, also have a place you want the cleanout becuase if you let them choose it will not be where you want. One guy for me dumped and cleaned out at the base of a bush in my front yard. I had to chip it out and then dig up and throw away the bush......

 

[readhead]

Take the concrete in with a couple of skidsteer loaders.
They can clean out in the truck. They won't want to but they can.

 

[astroracer]

How much concrete will they be driving over? Can you lay 6 or 8 inches of sand over the concrete? Use the plywood as mentioned above to protect the edges and bury it all in sand.
Mark

 

[boiler7904]

The barn will be approx 400' from my main driveway so I think the pumper is out. Where would one go about getting steel plates at?

A lot of line pumps can easily do 400' runs if they aren't also pumping uphill. You'll probably pay several hundred dollars for a 4 hour pour but it will make up for the headaches of getting the trucks in and out of the site.

 

[ddawg16]

If the only issue is the concrete...then drive over it with the trucks.

But forget 3/4"....go 1 1/8" sheets.....

Your biggest potential problem is the edge of the driveway where you transition from concrete to dirt.

If it was me, I would lay down a 2x12 right there at the edge...then lay the 1 1/8" plywood on top.

Depending on what your temp road looks like....you might want to bring in some rock for all the vehicles to drive on....otherwise, one good rain and your out of commission until it dries. The rock can later be used as base for the concrete drive.

 

[muddy tires]

When they did the concrete deck around our pool they hauled the concrete up in skidsteer buckets. 2 machines seemed to be a pretty good pace.

 

[newhollandpuller]

When they did the concrete for my pole barn (400' to the barn) they had two concrete buggies and ran them nonstop until all 30 yards were poured. They did the same thing for the pool concrete. The buggies are cheap to rent compared to replacing a driveway. If you have any stamped/colored concrete just cover it up or you will be cleaning it and resealing after they drip concrete all over it. I would never let a concrete truck up my driveway and it's 5.5" thick full of rebar and fiber (well I had one genius get about a third of the way up it until the contractor stopped him) No damage but what an IDOIT!

 

[MonteMike79]

I don't have as far as you, but the same situation. I had a tow behind pump brought out and poured my 18 yd garage floor. They are a lot of work to set up and tear down, All said and done the pump cost me 500 bucks. Saved what I have left of my driveway, I ended up breaking a section that I added on a couple yrs ago.

If the pump doesn't have enough hose to reach, you could always pump it as far as you can and buggy it from there.

 

[cyamaha2007]

We normally use a hopper for the forklift or use bobcats. Rental companies dont like you using their bobcats for concrete. Many contractor friends use theirs all the time. Just spray it down with form oil. You could also use " deck mats" Logging companies have them and will rent.

 

[06 DIESEL]

Call up you local rental yard for the steel plates. Ask for "Road Plates" and they will know what you are after. Make sure to let them know that they will have to place them when delivered and they will send a truck with a boom on it.

 

[JasonF]

Thanks for all the great ideas! My excavator who is putting my drive back to the build site in, said he could pile some additional stone crete at the edge of the driveway to provide a transition as to not drop off the driveway edge.
They trucks would have to go over approximately the last 20' of my cement driveway, I had though about doing what was suggested above and having some sand brought in to soften the impact. I like the idea of using some plywood, do you thing just doubling two sheets, staggering and covering the entire area would be enough with a lightened load?

I also have a very very long shot that a neighbor will let me cut through 300' of her nice green yard to access my the rear of mine. This would be the best and least expensive option with me just regrading/reseeding the tracks in, just have to get the courage to ask.

 

[Sureshot]

Access mats or swamp mats

 

[JasonF]

They did the same thing for the pool concrete. The buggies are cheap to rent compared to replacing a driveway.

The buggy idea does sound like a good one, the only thing is that this is going to end up being almost 30yards total. Is that even possible all in buggies?

 

[Blk88GT]

Access mats or swamp mats

This!