How old is this drill?

[mysterman]

 

[Lou's Garage]

It looks like a 1/2 inch, if so it strongly resembles an older model that I have. Mine is known to be WW 2 era, yours is newer. The handle on the rear and the I.D. plate remind me of drills similar to mine from the 50's or 60's. That's about all I can provide from memory. The model # might be 1320-90. There should be a hole in the top with pipe threads for an additional handle. If you can read the serial number, it might reveal some more information from one of the vintage machinery sites. They were slow speed, high powered drills that were incredibly durable. Yours looks like it's been exposed to moisture and might need to be cleaned up but, if it's rehab-able should be a valuable addition to your tool crib.

Lou Manglass

 

[woody 73]

I am sorry my older eyes cannot make out the model number, but the cross-hatchet marks on the handle is helping me out a little bit. it will take some time looking all the old catalogs for the decade it was made.

Sigh in my younger days my eyes were better, sorry not much help there. 1960's sounds good to me.

 

[RTM]

You might have gross luck searching for changes in the logo to avoid searching every catalog.

 

[four.cycle]

^ When did they start using that black-and-orange logo ON the tools? That's an indicator.
Not sure if I have anything that's going to help... (okay... .I've got nothin' between 1957 and 1963 here in the machine, but the change on the logo appears to have occurred in that time frame.)

(RTM and I hit "save" at the same time.)

@mysterman - welcome to the site!

keep this link handy at all times

and this one

Black & Decker at International Tool Catalog Library

 

[jagwinn]

I have the same drill; with the addition of a 1/2" red pipe handle on top.
The chuck is Jacobs attached with 33taper.
It has slow rpm but will break you arm with torque...

 

[micromind]

I'd say 60s or 70s.

 

[lilredex]

I bought one like that, new in 1972. Slow speed, but lots of torque as stated above. It was made in Brockville, ON. when they still made things here.

 

[retDAC]

It looks like a 1/2 inch, if so it strongly resembles an older model that I have. Mine is known to be WW 2 era, yours is newer. The handle on the rear and the I.D. plate remind me of drills similar to mine from the 50's or 60's. That's about all I can provide from memory. The model # might be 1320-90. There should be a hole in the top with pipe threads for an additional handle. If you can read the serial number, it might reveal some more information from one of the vintage machinery sites. They were slow speed, high powered drills that were incredibly durable. Yours looks like it's been exposed to moisture and might need to be cleaned up but, if it's rehab-able should be a valuable addition to your tool crib.

Lou Manglass

I would say 50s, maybe 60s. Dad bought one in the early to mid 70s and it looks like what lilredex depicted.

 

[rsanter]

Metal handle verses plastic
Metal ID tag riveted on
And the logo

I used to work for B&D, I’m going to,say 60s

Those are a very good drill, was made all the way into the 80s

 

[yhprum]

I googled black&decker logo history. Several sites say that logo was 1960 to 1964.

 

[four.cycle]

^ you might be able to narrow that down by finding an image of that "checkered grip" handle in one of the catalogs at ITCL

 

[ecotec]

I have the same drill; with the addition of a 1/2" red pipe handle on top.
The chuck is Jacobs attached with 33taper.
It has slow rpm but will break you arm with torque...

All those early “compact” drills were arm and wrist destroyers. With Milwaukee drills (the compact drills I used when I was young) the bare metal ones were always way worse than the ones with grey paint. Something evolved (a better clutch?) around the time that Milwaukee started using grey paint.

I used to use those things for hours every week on residential electrical rough ins.

 

[Shiftless]

As said earlier, the torque on those old drills is amazing. I have heard stories of guys getting thrown off ladders when the bit bound up. Serious injuries from that. Be careful if you get that old guy operational and decide to use it.

 

[Milton Shaw]

I have a Craftsman drill of that design. Boy was one of the posters accurate they have extreme torque. I was drilling out a floor from the basement with a 2" hole drill with a extension that had a hex end for the chuck. It hung up and about broke my arm. I learned that that hex end needs to be cut off so that the chuck can slip on the round shaft. Mine didn't have the pipe thread for a top handle it had like a 3/8 thread plastic handle up there that went by-by when that happened.

 

[cgrutt]

My FIL's similar vintage Stanley is in the garage I should pull it out and see if it still works.

One of my first jobs was installing stereos and electronics at a van conversion shop. They had a similar drill for use in drilling 4, 5 or 6 inch holes in 1970s - 80s vehicle doors. I recall nearly getting wrapped up a few times doing that. Fun times!

 

[jagwinn]

The are capable of winding up an extension cord into a nice tight coil...just perfect for storage

 

[KnurledNut]

Pre-1976 because they added the zip code to the address on nameplates after that.

 

[egdede]

I have a Craftsman drill of that design. Boy was one of the posters accurate they have extreme torque. I was drilling out a floor from the basement with a 2" hole drill with a extension that had a hex end for the chuck. It hung up and about broke my arm. I learned that that hex end needs to be cut off so that the chuck can slip on the round shaft. Mine didn't have the pipe thread for a top handle it had like a 3/8 thread plastic handle up there that went by-by when that happened.

Chuck slippage as a feature, kinda like how my skil 77 slips when the blade is mounted correctly : )

I try not use drills like these unless I can lock the long handle (yours didn't have) against a stud or wall. That's not always possible....

 

[joel63]

As said earlier, the torque on those old drills is amazing. I have heard stories of guys getting thrown off ladders when the bit bound up. Serious injuries from that. Be careful if you get that old guy operational and decide to use it.

Part of the learning curve of using a 1/2 drill. I don't use anything over 3/8.

 

[Beerhippie]

As said earlier, the torque on those old drills is amazing. I have heard stories of guys getting thrown off ladders when the bit bound up. Serious injuries from that. Be careful if you get that old guy operational and decide to use it.

Matter of fact, I've been thrown off a ladder by a Hole Hawg running a 4" hole saw. Fortunately, I was only about twenty feet off the ground and landed in the landscape shrubs. The Hole Hawg kept running until it wound the cord up enough to unplug itself (if you use an old Hole Hawg left-handed, which I was doing, it automatically locks itself on).

 

[Shiftless]

Fortunately, I was only about twenty feet off the ground and landed in the landscape shrubs.

OUCH !!!!

 

[KnurledNut]

Matter of fact, I've been thrown off a ladder by a Hole Hawg running a 4" hole saw. Fortunately, I was only about twenty feet off the ground and landed in the landscape shrubs. The Hole Hawg kept running until it wound the cord up enough to unplug itself (if you use an old Hole Hawg left-handed, which I was doing, it automatically locks itself on).

I was on scaffolding on a commercial job drilling a 1/2 hole through the web of a structural steel W-beam. Needed a mag drill, but didn’t have access to one. Corded hole hawg it was. I was drilling at head height and when it finally punched through, the bit caught and I was KO’d by the drill. It might have broke my jaw, I never got it checked. Almost came off that scaffolding!
Hole hawgs are crazy dangerous!

 

[Beerhippie]

OUCH !!!!

The shrubbery suffered more damage than I. Of course, I had to do my best to fix it.

 

[Leon bee]

My first job after the army, 1971 new guy on a carpenter crew in Denver. One day the boss dragged over some tools for me to be in charge of. One of those same big drill motors he hands me and says, "careful of that one, it's a hungry m***** f******

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Drill like in the OP's picture shocked the hell out of me when I was 16. Havent trusted any old metal case power tool since. I know what I'd do with the one pictured if it was in my shop....

 

[Leon bee]

You try to keep one hand on your **** in damp conditions with those great metal tools. Specially hard to do with the tool in question.

 

[Beerhippie]

Drill like in the OP's picture shocked the hell out of me when I was 16. Havent trusted any old metal case power tool since. I know what I'd do with the one pictured if it was in my shop....

I used a similar drill, provided by the homeowner, to bore 1/2" anchor holes through railroad ties that I was using to build a retaining wall. Every time I'd bore through the ties and the auger touched the ground it would trip the GFIC, which was a breaker in the box on the opposite side of the house. It slowed things down some.

 

[Banjorear]

As said earlier, the torque on those old drills is amazing. I have heard stories of guys getting thrown off ladders when the bit bound up. Serious injuries from that. Be careful if you get that old guy operational and decide to use it.

Yep. If using it to drill into wet wood or beams with an auger bit, definitely need to use the pipe. The way the rear handle is, if the bit catches, it twists your wrist so quickly, you're in for a jolt. The pipe handle allows you to give some resistance to twist if that happens.

I've used one of those drills to turn over small tractors.

 

[Beerhippie]

Yep. If using it to drill into wet wood or beams with an auger bit, definitely need to use the pipe. The way the rear handle is, if the bit catches, it twists your wrist so quickly, you're in for a jolt. The pipe handle allows you to give some resistance to twist if that happens.

I've used one of those drills to turn over small tractors.

Is this similar to cow-tipping?

 

[Banjorear]

Is this similar to cow-tipping?

Yep.

 

[Bubba Fett]

I recently found a bunch of'60's through 90's era power tools at work. Some of them still work, but they have cracked housings, broken buttons, or frayed power cables, and are thus not allowed to be used.

Bummer.

 

[Beerhippie]

I recently found a bunch of'60's through 90's era power tools at work. Some of them still work, but they have cracked housings, broken buttons, or frayed power cables, and are thus not allowed to be used.

Bummer.

Offer to safely dispose of them.

 

[RTM]

Offer to safely dispose of them.

Far away from the site!

 

[Bubba Fett]

I have a standing offer. LOL. They are mostly Old Craftsman, Black and Decker (back when they were an industrial brand), DeWalt, and a few others. Some with metal housings. Unfortunately, the inventory control specialist is...difficult to work with at times.

 

[Shiftless]

I have a standing offer. LOL. They are mostly Old Craftsman, Black and Decker (back when they were an industrial brand), DeWalt, and a few others. Some with metal housings. Unfortunately, the inventory control specialist is...difficult to work with at times.

Check to see if OSHA had banned them from worksites. That will give you leverage.

 

[Beerhippie]

Check to see if OSHA had banned them from worksites. That will give you leverage.

If they have worn, cracked cords or missing ground pins, yes, they have.