How practical are dial torque wrenches?

[terrific]

I've been considering a dial torque wrench. I wouldn't have to set the desired torque beforehand, which would be great in instances where there are many bolts with different requirements. Additionally, dial torque wrenches are a little more accurate by design, but the benefit could easily be lost if you read the dial from an angle.
I've been paying attention to whether or not I'll have clearance to read the dial on the machines I maintain, and I think I'll be okay, but I'd like to hear about any difficulties you've had.

How often have you had to switch to a clicker when you realized the bolt was facing the wrong direction? (I guess you could use a well placed mirror)
Is it difficult to read the dial when you're straining to reach high values of torque? (50-250 ft.lb. range)
How big of an inconvenience is it to not have a ratchet?
Anything else?
Thanks!

 

[Fedwrench]

I only use a dial torque wrench when measuring rotating resistance, like pinion bearing preload.
There's no way I would use one in place of a split beam or micrometer type torque wrench or at the high range you mention.

 

[ronkz650]

Too big all around to fit a lot of time, and no ratchet. The big part is the worst part. They work OK if you have the room, and can see the dial. Great for some uses, but not my idea of a go to torque wrench.

 

[charbar]

I only use a dial torque wrench when measuring rotating resistance, like pinion bearing preload.
There's no way I would use one in place of a split beam or micrometer type torque wrench or at the high range you mention.

Same here. Dial torque wrenches are a pain is the **** for actually torquing fasteners.

 

[Wamsutta]

They are ideal for occasions where you have an easy unobstructed view of the dial face. Having an engine on the engine stand is a perfect example. Your best engine builders will always use a dial torque wrench because they don't trust the accuracy of a clicker.

 

[rsanter]

Issue
Most of them the dial will float, or at least the one I had was that way.
When used upside down they don’t work and if using upright they may not be as accurate.
Check the specifications

 

[scooby074]

Pinion/rotational torque is about the only thing Ive ever seen them used for. Very limited use cases IMHO. Get a split beam style instead.

 

[Dave455]

I know that this is a very “Garage Journal“ answer, but I think a case can be made for both types.

For general automotive work, I definitely prefer the click type of torque wrench. However, almost all of mine, from the 2 - 8 lb ft 3/8 drive, to the massive 3/4 drive currently suspended from my shop roof, have been bought used. As I’m fortunate to possess a torque wrench tester, I can see that while all of these tools are accurate enough for my purposes, most have suffered some loss of accuracy.

The dial type, I find either seem to work, or not. If they work, they generally seem to retain a high standard of accuracy.

So, if convenient to do so, or if a high standard of accuracy was needed, I’d go for the dial type. Otherwise, the click type.

 

[no704]

Had a couple at a previous employer. Really only used them for destructive testing. Crank the part to failure and read the telltale.

 

[Odd-job]

I think a dial type would drive one crazy when working deep in a machine or in most automotive applications. The lack of ratcheting really hurts in initial fastener installation when trying to torque to spec and the initial torque by feel with lets say a ratchet was way off. If your torque by feel is really good then that might not be an issue.

They are almost perfect for working on things like bicycles to snug things up where the gauge is easy to see and the fastener might have loosened slightly out of spec. Again probably limited application as per the above comments.

 

[Beemer]

I have one and it's not a favorite. It always need a clear line of sight while also focusing on the bolt, etc. Also, the range is not that much not terribly functional.
Clips type is better for me.

 

[WildBill]

The only time I use my dial type one is when rebuilding an engine or rear end, the other 99% of the time I use a click type.

 

[mikedodge]

I have several in various sizes and ranges. They're good for engine and transmission work or when torque needs to be accurate. They're not the most ideal working on a car unless you have a good view of the guage especially for higher torque applications.

 

[impactims]

I use snap on “torque o meter,” the analog dial type, exclusively.

I have 6 of them each with a different range.

They are my favorite kind of torque wrench, hands down.

 

[tak1313]

Do dial torque wrenches suffer from potential parallax error like beam types do? How close is the needle to the dial surface?

 

[1320]

I have a bunch of Snap-on and Precision Instruments torqometers, probably mostly because they were cheap and "fun to collect."

Like others have said, non ratcheting, can suffer from parallax and line of sight issues.

If you're after very low (<30 lbin) or very high torque, (>600 lbft) used ones can be a potentially inexpensive option.

 

[Snapped-off]

I recently upgraded my ¾" to a split beam. 1" drive is still a PI dial. I've got a ¼" dial for if I ever do another rear end. I won't be upset if I don't.

 

[General Geoff]

Additionally, dial torque wrenches are a little more accurate by design, but the benefit could easily be lost if you read the dial from an angle.
I've been paying attention to whether or not I'll have clearance to read the dial on the machines I maintain, and I think I'll be okay, but I'd like to hear about any difficulties you've had.

I'd skip the dial and just use an old school beam wrench. Has the same drawbacks of a dial type (need good, straight-on visibility of the indicator to avoid parallax error) but has several advantages, such as no moving parts and the ability to re-calibrate by simply bending the indicator needle to read zero at rest.

Is it difficult to read the dial when you're straining to reach high values of torque? (50-250 ft.lb. range)
How big of an inconvenience is it to not have a ratchet?

I used a $20 beam style torque wrench for torquing wheel nuts for years and years. If you can leverage your body weight to lean into the wrench without straining your arms much, it's not hard to read the gauge while torquing at higher ranges. As for not having a ratchet, you can add a ratchet adapter to the end:

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I use Snap On Torque O Meters in 3/8 drive up 150 in/lbs and 1/2 drive up 250 ft/lbs. There have been times I would have liked to had a different type. Even then I've never not be able to torque what I needed. I did use the mirror trick one time and it worked well. Thought of the ratchet adapter before but never used it. I tend to work slower when using a torque wrench anyways. If you do get a dial type, I recommend getting one with a follow up pointer. You can use it to track your max torque or set it to your desired torque setting. When the needle touches the pointer you know you are done. Makes torquing easier when not right over the dial. Snap On and PI make good ones and the PI people are good to work with.

 

[ecotec]

I still have mine, but I haven’t used them since the early 90’s.

 

[Odd-job]

I'd skip the dial and just use an old school beam wrench. Has the same drawbacks of a dial type (need good, straight-on visibility of the indicator to avoid parallax error) but has several advantages, such as no moving parts and the ability to re-calibrate by simply bending the indicator needle to read zero at rest.


I used a $20 beam style torque wrench for torquing wheel nuts for years and years. If you can leverage your body weight to lean into the wrench without straining your arms much, it's not hard to read the gauge while torquing at higher ranges. As for not having a ratchet, you can add a ratchet adapter to the end:

honestly never thought of adding a ratchet adapter!