How should I trim out T1-11?

[Mudbone]

I am making plans for a 12 x 20 workshop/garage. I am located in NC. I will be designed more like a shed building. 2x6 floor structure on 6x6 skids with 3/4 plywood flooring. (This allows me to get away with things I wouldn't with a concrete slab; closer to property line, lower taxes, lower permit and inspection fees, etc.) It will have a 7x9 garage door on one end.

I am trying to decide what type of siding and trim to use. I am currently leaning toward T1-11 (all wood 5/8). I would like to trim the building with 4/4 trim boards. This includes a base or ledger board, corner boards and frieze boards as well as fascia. I plan to use MiraTEC for the trim.

This issue I have is how to place the trim and the T1-11. Normally if you were using T1-11 and corner boards you would run the T1-11 all the way to the edge of the walls and put the corner boards on top. However if you do that with the base trim then you end up with the top of the base trim exposed and big gaps where the grooves are in the T1-11.

If I cut the T1-11 short and place the base trim under it and use z flashing I end up with a few problems. First the corner boards and the base trim will not match up with the corner boards sitting on top of the T1-11. I could use a piece of 5/8 treated behind the trim board and a really wide piece of z flashing. But the other issue is that I plan to use a 7 1/4 wide base board which will put that gap and the z flashing above the floor plate of the wall. ( I am not planning to use OSB or some other sub sheathing.) Another issue with the z flashing is that T1-11 can still rot on the bottom against the flashing.

The other option would be to put the base trim on top of the T1-11 and bevel the top to shed water and just caulk it really well including filling in the
grooves in the T1-11.

The third thing to do would be to treat the trim as you would with traditional siding and attach it directly to the walls and then fill in the middle with the T1-11 and caulk really well. But with 5/4 trim boards and the 5/8 T1-11 you would only have a 3/8 reveal on the trim boards.

Thoughts? suggestions?

BTW I have considered using HardiePlank. BUT I don't like the fact that you have to **** the edges and then use a vertical batten.

 

[Alchymist]

Give some thought to shiplap siding instead of t-111.

 

[SGKent]

my shed has T1-11. The vertical seams overlap except at the corners - If you want to caulk them you can. The corners on my Tuff Shed are such that they are like an L with one side cut narrower so visually both sides look the same. We are in the Sacramento foothills and get 20 - 30 " of rain a year. The shed is on the north side of the house and gets little sun in winter. It sits on a sloped concrete pad. It is always dry inside and at 15 years old shows little signs of wear. I have painted it once. Three coats of Kelly Moore. The house is T1-11 which lasted 25 years but the first 10 years were under another owner where it was poorly painted. I painted both sides, top and bottom and the cuts on the replacement T1-11. It is lasting better than the original.

 

[64dragnwagon]

Why do you think you need base trim? I did my garage with T1-11 and put the corner boards on top of the siding, no problem and it looks fine. The other option is to bevel the base trim at 45 angle, why do you think it would be a problem if treated or painted?

 

[Red05GT]

We recently did a garage and used HardiBoard Sierra panels, about the same price as
T-111. For the base trim and corner boards we used rough sawn poplar fence boards,
1 x 6 x 16' for about $ 7. a piece. We rabbeted the back edge of each corner board to
cover the siding by about an inch. At the base we used some left over 5/4 treated decking
that we ripped at 10 degrees and used for a water table to set the siding on.

 

[Nowater]

I used T1-11 on my shed and did not put on a bottom trim piece. I did make extra sure that the bottom of the plywood was painted, as was the inside. To do it over again, I would have used cdx as siding (and for strength) and finish with the Hardie Panel that looks like T1-11. I would trim the corners with the new PVC wood look-alike. That stuff is easy to work with and won't rot.

By the way, don't cut the Hardie Panel inside, as it produces tons of dust that you do not want to breathe. A special blade is made to cut it.

 

[trbomax]

Our whole house is t1-11 and trimmed with rough sawn cedar,then stained with transparent Wood Guard Red Cedar stain. Its about 12 yrs old now and still looks new. I will take some detail pics of the trim in the am and post them.

edit) the t1-11 was glued and then narrow crown stapled in the grooves,makeing them all but invisible. We also glued the lap joints and wiped the finished joint clean with paint sticks cut to the correct conture.The adhesive is almost the same color as the wood and once it was stained you really have to look to see it.The adhesive insures there will be no buckeling down the road and seals each cavity up against air intrusion.It is a little pricy to do this way because we use almost one full large tube of adhesive per sheet. The wood guard is a little pricy too at $120/gal,but its a fungicide,insecticide and only needs recoating every 4-5 yrs to stay lookin brand new.

 

[trbomax]

Here you are.

 

[Packard V8]

Your shop, your money, your decision. However, consider:

The wood guard is a little pricy too at $120/gal,but its a fungicide,insecticide and only needs recoating every 4-5 yrs to stay lookin brand new.

Over the years T1-11 has been available, I've watched how maintenance-intensive it is compared to other siding options. Personally, I wouldn't install garage siding which requires recoating every 4-5 years with $120 gal material if you gave me the siding free. Your opinions may vary.

jack vines

 

[trbomax]

I wouldnt either any more,but its the look I wanted for the house. Two walls of the shop in ohio were done this way (to match the back of the house) and it has not been restained for 20 yrs. It has a nice grey color to it,not what I had in mind when it was built,but what its become because we are not there to maintain it.`The house up here only takes us about 4 days working together to restain it.It takes 13-15 gal of material though,so you are correct,its not cheap to maintain. If it were stained with a solid color stain at only 25$/ gal it would go 6 or 7 yrs.

 

[tcianci]

What you may want to do is frame the building conventionally as far as the deck goes, then, frame the walls with a 2x4 let in sitting on top of the shoe of the wall, on edge with each stud notched around it. This will allow you to put your "ledger" ( around here we call them water table boards) directly on the band joists and rim joists, add a cap flashing, the flange of which would be vertical against the let in 2x and then run your T-1-11 on the studs. This gives you a proper flashing detail at the joint where the 1-11 and the board meet. You will also need to modify your outside corner framing so that when the corner boards are applied there is still a vertical nailer of framing lumber that the 1-11 can fasten to. Basically you need to frame the outside corners with 2x8 or so fastened in an "L" configuration. This leaves 2 vertical flanges for the 1-11 to nail to after the corner boards are appplied