How to attach 1/2 Steel table top to Base

[TLCDino]

Quick question - I just finished most of the work to my fabrication table in the garage and need some pointers on how to secure it. The top is 1/2" plate, weighs over 400 pounds and is not going anywhere, but when I got to roll the table, you might need to give it a shove to get the wheels moving. Any thoughts on how to attach?

Welding it seems the easiest. I was thinking a 4" weld every 18". The fairly thick walled 2x2 and 4x4 stock.

Thanks in advance for any advice...

 

[toolchaser]

I have a similar sized frame on my welding table with a 1" steel top, I have a
1" weld every 18' or so on the underside no issues

 

[bimmer1980]

an alternate idea would be to put a nut plate or tapped plate into the top of the square tube. Then use a match drilled, countersunk hole in the plate and use a bolt with a countersunk head. You could also drill a thru hole in the horizontal members and use a countersunk bolt in multiple locations.

Altho, welding on the underside is probably the quickest and easiest.....

 

[gorilla]

The more you weld on that plate the more likely you are to warp it, 1" every 18" around the outside is probably good.

 

[Jack Olsen]

A 1" stitch at each corner would do it, I think. The only real movement you're likely to get is 'walking' from repeated hammer blows. You don't need much to stop that, and gravity is already working on your side.

 

[MotoDave]

I built my table the same way, and used some 1/4" angle iron to connect the top and frame. That way I was welding 1/2" to 1/4" and then 1/4" to the ~1/8" wall tubing.

 

[OccupantRJ]

A 1" stitch at each corner would do it, I think. The only real movement you're likely to get is 'walking' from repeated hammer blows. You don't need much to stop that, and gravity is already working on your side.

With no more welds to attach than that, it will likely resonate like crazy when hit upon. Welding an inch every 12 to 18 would work just fine.

 

[ears]

Drill and tap the top then run bolts through from the underside and grind them flush.

 

[bad_idea]

1" stitch every 18"

 

[Deltarat]

Drill and tap the top then run bolts through from the underside and grind them flush.

That is the way I attached my 4'x8'x 1/2" top to my frame.

 

[Jason Lister]

Well... how flat do you want it to be?

If you want it flat, I would bolt it. Check it with a straight edge and place bolts accordingly to pull the table true.

I have a grid of 1/2-13 tapped holes in my 30x60x1/2 top and plan to mount from the underside using some of the holes. The others will be used for clamping projects.

Also, bolting the top makes it very easy to replace or modify (blanchard grind) later down the road...

 

[Brad54]

Another vote for 1-inch stitch every 18 inches or so.
You not only don't want it to move, you don't want it to vibrate against the frame, and you don't want it to ring.

If you're not good at welding upside down, put a couple 2x4s on the ground, lay the plate on it, flip the table base upside down and set it on the plate, weld, then flip the whole thing over as a unit.

That's how I did mine, and it weighs over 600 pounds.
Only took me and the 16 year old to flip it upright.

-Brad

 

[sberry]

A couple inches of weld a half a dozen places isnt going to hurt this top.

 

[Larwyn]

A 1" stitch at each corner would do it, I think. The only real movement you're likely to get is 'walking' from repeated hammer blows. You don't need much to stop that, and gravity is already working on your side.

I agree. Gravity should prevent a 400 pound table top from floating away. If it were mine I would be inclined to rely on gravity alone, when/if it proved to need more I would then make the tacks at the corners. Wish I had that top to give it a go....

 

[TLCDino]

Thanks for all the advice. I opted for the 1' stitches. Just seemed easier.... Today, I paint.

 

[TLCDino]

Got my painting done today. What a difference a little rattle can makes! First, a little primer then two coats of Royal Blue enamel. I am really surprised how well it turned out. Of course it has issues, but it exceeded my expectation....

 

[R6 Racer]

^^^^^ Pic no workie... ^^^^^

Steve

 

[hh76]

I welded some pieces of "C" chanel around the perimeter and in several places in the center of the table. Then I used threaded rod through the base frame up to a nut in the recess of the C chanel. This gave me a way to shim the top in an effort to get it perfectly flat. Worked pretty well to take out a 1/2" bow in my 6' table.

 

[koditten]

70S mig wire is good for 70k per inch. I would think 2, 1" welds on each side would be more than enough.

KO

 

[bggrnchvy]

70S mig wire is good for 70k per inch. I would think 2, 1" welds on each side would be more than enough.

KO

70k per in^2, not per inch.

Two 1" stiches would keep it from sliding anywhere for sure though.