How to best proceed.

[nbpt100]

I have a front strut mount that makes a noise now and then on my Kia Sedona. It is not every time I drive it but maybe a few times over the course of a month. Alsways when the wheel is turned hard in either direction. Usually when parking. When I went in for state inspection last year the guy said it was going but it never seemed to be an issue.

I have over 200k Miles on it but it is strong vehicle overall. I am thinking it may be time to replace the front struts and mounts while I am at it. Maybe even the springs.

Looking on Rock Auto front springs are not available. They do sell an assortment of Full assemblies, also commonly called quick struts. This is what many shops will replace these days on an older car as it saves on labor and replaces all of the components with new. It is a good idea in principal. But can still run the price up vs. replacing only a mount. I have been told by mechanics that the components in quick struts are often lesser quality. I dont know but I would not be surprised.
The options I am considering are to replace only the one bad mount, one strut assembly or both right and left assemblies.

The options for quick struts are 5 brands. 3 are priced on the lower end and all about the same price (~$120 Ea)

They are Mando, FCS Auto, PRT. I have never heard of anyone of them. That does not mean they are not worth it but I am skeptical.

The mid priced one is Gabriel (~$160 ea) and the high priced one is Monroe (~$250 ea)

A new brand name mount is about $40.

Any thoughts from those with experience. Thanks.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I have a front strut mount that makes a noise now and then on my Kia Sedona. Alsways when the wheel is turned hard in either direction.

Sure it's not a bad CV joint?

Tommy

 

[nbpt100]

Sure it's not a bad CV joint?

Tommy

Pretty confident it is not. Sounds like it is coming from the strut mount area.

 

[CombatNinja]

Are those 200K struts original!? Yikes.....

 

[nbpt100]

Are those 200K struts original!? Yikes.....

Yes. The whole assembly. This model Sedona is a well made truck. Not a typical mini van.

 

[Kaizen]

can't hurt to do some maintenance. my nissan had a clunk noise like that so i wanted to replace the mount as the strut seemed fine. Since it needed complete disassembly i just did the strut as well. fixed the problem. It was moving i guess just a little just once when i first backed out of the driveway. 50k later and i have it again. ain't touching it till its really broke this time.

 

[CombatNinja]

Uh, a Kia Sedona is not a truck.

 

[Lefty's Garage]

Sounds like you intend to keep the car for a while. You haven't mentioned OEM availability, maybe check with a dealer for availability in their network. If unavailable through KIA, you could ask their service dept mgr what/who they would attempt to procure parts through. Just my 2¢ worth.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

Any strut you put in is going to be better than what you take out. I think Gabriel is apt to be as good as the Monroe. Sensen is supposed to be good on the cheap end of the stick. KYB Excel-G would be better than any of those others, but good luck getting a loaded one.

I'd spring extra for Gabriel, but not pay more for the Monroe. Others may feel different. On some cars, these are super easy to swap out. At 200,000 miles, I'd be OK with a mid grade budget model myself, if they were a straight swap out. Some of the cheapest ones can start to seep at the shaft within the first year, but if you have your paper work, they will usually send you a new unit.

You can find online reviews about almost anything they sell nowadays. You should sit down and do some reading. FCS is pretty big, but I haven't got any personal experience with them. It pays to read the reviews.

 

[PassnThru]

I just went through all four corners on my Explorer. I did use the quick struts - KYB to be precise. It was a gamble but doing research on the internet doesn't really help at all. At the end of the day - I decided that I was getting new springs, struts, and mounts for not a whole lot more than just the struts and mounts and it made installation so much easier and the KYB brand always seemed to rise to the top.
So far I've been very happy with it - really tightened things up.
Will they last as long as the OEM? Don't know. If I get 70K out of them then I'll be over 200K at that point and that works for me.

 

[p00p]

typically for a passenger vehicle DD with that high of mileage, I'd opt for a pair of ready-struts & plan to replace some steering/stabilizers at the same time.
If I have to lego my own assemblies, I'll use Gabriel/MOOG/FCP/Local store premium brand or OEM (if priced competitively).
Age & mileage would help dictate if I'm doing both sides or not.

 

[Viper98912]

Is the design a coil-over-strut setup, where the coil is compressed over the shaft of the strut, and held in by the mount? If so, have you ever changed out "just a mount" or "just a strut" when having to compress and decompress a coil? If not, it is not easy, and is a little dangerous. Be careful when doing it (I've done it multiple times).

If it were me, and I was looking for a "good solution", I would buy one of the quick pre-assemblies and replace the whole thing as one unit. Remember that you also want to do these in axle pairs - don't do just one corner, you should do either both fronts or both rears at the same time.

 

[nadogail]

I might be mistaken but I feel my 22 year old Chevy 1500 Express Cargo van has the original struts. My buddy said that is because i baby it, i think it is because that 305 can get us past anything but a Gas Sation.

 

[FredWanaker]

typically dealers have factory remanufactured parts that work far better than the aftermarket ****. I used a set of aftermarket axles for a Legend once and one snapped from a casting flaw a block into an easy test drive. Put in a factory remanufactured one and it lasted until forever.

 

[firebirdparts]

Struts are cheap. I'd say don't over analyze. I have a car that the strut mounts failures are a known quantity. People who own the cars know what they sound like. But I suppose all my other cars with struts don't do that. It's funny.

but generally, on that car, if you have the strut all apart to change the mount, for something like $45 you can put a new one back in. Or whatever, you pick.

 

[Sumboodie]

I can't imagine Rock Auto can be competitive on pricing once shipping is added.
Price your local auto parts places. Those guys have mouths to feed too.

 

[CraigStu]

I bought Monroe quick struts for my 2011 Tacoma w/ about 140,000miles on it. Same reasoning as you. The monroes sucked big time. They were so soft that they were hardly an improvement over the OE struts. I put up w/ that because it was no longer my daily driver but it pi$$ed me off every time I drove it. 2 months ago it was traded in.

 

[brownbagg]

take it to a tire store, tell them to fix it, and whatever the bill is, pay it
then your done with it. it will properly need an alignment too

 

[p00p]

I can't imagine Rock Auto can be competitive on pricing once shipping is added.
Price your local auto parts places. Those guys have mouths to feed too.

RA has been less attractive lately because of the shipping.

 

[ericm]

If you're going to keep the car for a while, I'd use OEM strut mounts and quality shocks like Bilsteins. You will want to do the back too so it does not handle funny. And at 200k there's probably bushing or other wear parts that need replacing.

 

[Worsedog]

With that mileage if you intend to keep it, buy a high quality loaded strut. You've got 200K worth of wear on all of it, do it all at once and be done. If it's on the block to go, buy a cheap loaded strut and be done. When you sell it you can say it all new.

 

[workerbee]

I might be mistaken but I feel my 22 year old Chevy 1500 Express Cargo van has the original struts. My buddy said that is because i baby it, i think it is because that 305 can get us past anything but a Gas Sation.

I doubt your van has struts at all. Probably control arms with separate springs and shocks.

 

[nbpt100]

RA has been less attractive lately because of the shipping.

Yes, their shipping can add up. Funny how they use so many different warehouses for the same brands and types of parts.However it still seems to be one of the better options for choice and overall cost to acquire. If you know of a better source please share.

Uh, a Kia Sedona is not a truck.

I know it is not like a pick up truck. You are taking what I said out of context. In the mini van catagory it is more robust than the other options. The early versions share the same base as a truck designed by Kia for the Korean army. They have lightened it up in future design changes.

Sounds like you intend to keep the car for a while. You haven't mentioned OEM availability, maybe check with a dealer for availability in their network. If unavailable through KIA, you could ask their service dept mgr what/who they would attempt to procure parts through. Just my 2¢ worth.

Yes. I will keep it another 10 years if I can. If I want to piece it togeather my self I will still have to buy dealer parts like springs and spring insulators. Pricing on other items i can source elsewhere are 2x > the cost of KYB or other know quality brands. Your comments are good ones.

I already looked at my local box parts stores and they offer a quickstrut with their private label on it (Dura last, Car quest etc) for about $190 each. At first blush seems an attractive option. I assume they are made by Mando, FCS or PRT. Which is of suspect quality (after ready reviews). There are both good and bad reviews but enough bad reviews to make you question the choice. Even some more recent Monroe reviews are negative. I understand things can change.

I can get a Monroe quick strut from one of the Box stores for $566 each. But it is only shipped directly to you from the factory. Buying it does not even help support the local store. As one commenter above said "they got to eat too". I understand that and am somewhat sensitive to it. But their own company is cutting them out of many on line sales. I Like the ship to store option when available, because it does help the locals and if an issue I have local support. i.e. they will take it back. It seems this option is being eliminated more and more.

 

[JWILLIE1977]

I can't imagine Rock Auto can be competitive on pricing once shipping is added.
Price your local auto parts places. Those guys have mouths to feed too.

Not trying to hijack the thread. . But RockAuto is $350 on SKF unit bearings for my F350SD. . . Same part at my corner Napa was $599, with my business account pricing. AutoZone and Advanced Auto don't have the better quality WBs I don't mind helping to feed their families. . . But caviar, filet mignon, and lobster tails every meal. . Napa is out of their mind on that pricing in my opinion. I have to be cost conscious because my family needs to eat too. Going with the Ford OEMs from dieselfiltersonline.com . . .for cheaper than Napa and RA.

Anyway. . Back to the original post. .

My two cents. . Need to understand ultimately what you want to do with the vehicle. . Keeping it for the long term? 2 new mounts and 2 new full assemblies for peace of mind. Anything midgrade and better should be a noticible improvement.

 

[rcbk00]

The cheap brands of ready struts are not very good quality. The mounts and dampers often fail within a year or two. For a Kia with 200k (that might throw a rod a month from now), I would swap out just the strut mount with a new factory mount. Personally, I haven't had good luck with aftermarket strut mounts (even from good companies). If you can't get a new factory strut mount, get the best aftermarket one you can find. Back when I had a Hyundai, I could usually get factory Hyundai parts pretty cheap on Ebay, Amazon, and even Rockauto.

Swapping out a strut mount is not hard. I did one on my Caravan not too long ago. When you're removing the strut from the car, mark the orientation of the strut and the heads of the strut bolts relative to the knuckle (a paint pen is your friend here), and put everything back the exact same way after you replace the mount. This way, you won't have to get the car realigned. My Caravan took me about an hour, and I was taking my time. I used a free spring compressor from my local Advance Auto to disassemble the strut once it was out of the car.

If you do go with new complete struts, I wouldn't touch anything below the Gabriel's. Just my two cents. Good luck with whatever you wind up doing.

 

[ddawg16]

Are you SURE it's not the CV joint?
Have you looked under at the boot?

Does it make the noise only when moving? If it makes the noise when turning the wheel and NOT moving....then strut....

Which sound like they need to be replaced anyway.

 

[nadogail]

I doubt your van has struts at all. Probably control arms with separate springs and shocks.

At 22 years old my van can have whatever it wants

 

[p00p]

Yes, their shipping can add up. Funny how they use so many different warehouses for the same brands and types of parts.However it still seems to be one of the better options for choice and overall cost to acquire. If you know of a better source please share.

the single source/one stop shopping is now a distant memory. Like RA, things have changed. Probably will never have it like it used to be.

 

[Sumboodie]

Yes, their shipping can add up. Funny how they use so many different warehouses for the same brands and types of parts.However it still seems to be one of the better options for choice and overall cost to acquire. If you know of a better source please share.

I know it is not like a pick up truck. You are taking what I said out of context. In the mini van catagory it is more robust than the other options. The early versions share the same base as a truck designed by Kia for the Korean army. They have lightened it up in future design changes.

Yes. I will keep it another 10 years if I can. If I want to piece it togeather my self I will still have to buy dealer parts like springs and spring insulators. Pricing on other items i can source elsewhere are 2x > the cost of KYB or other know quality brands. Your comments are good ones.

I already looked at my local box parts stores and they offer a quickstrut with their private label on it (Dura last, Car quest etc) for about $190 each. At first blush seems an attractive option. I assume they are made by Mando, FCS or PRT. Which is of suspect quality (after ready reviews). There are both good and bad reviews but enough bad reviews to make you question the choice. Even some more recent Monroe reviews are negative. I understand things can change.

I can get a Monroe quick strut from one of the Box stores for $566 each. But it is only shipped directly to you from the factory. Buying it does not even help support the local store. As one commenter above said "they got to eat too". I understand that and am somewhat sensitive to it. But their own company is cutting them out of many on line sales. I Like the ship to store option when available, because it does help the locals and if an issue I have local support. i.e. they will take it back. It seems this option is being eliminated more and more.

Monroe loaded assembly is about $175 at Shucks, at least on my account.

Part #: 172171

 

[Wrench97]

200k on a Sedona what year?
I'd put the FCS quick struts on it they'll out last the rest of it.

 

[brownbagg]

i buy a lot of my auto parts from amazon, for the free shipping. if you order more than one part from rock auto and it comes out of two warehouse the shipping will kill you

 

[nbpt100]

200k on a Sedona what year?
I'd put the FCS quick struts on it they'll out last the rest of it.

Maybe, but I bet they do not. My vehicles always last longer than average. People automatically assume it must be a beater with that milage. I understand the knee jerk reaciton. For what it is worth it is a 2010.

 

[nbpt100]

Monroe loaded assembly is about $175 at Shucks, at least on my account.

Part #: 172171

O'Rielly absorbed shucks. I dont know what that part number is for but they have what I want listed for $518.99. They advertize a 10% discount bringing it down to about $467. Still not even close to RA.

 

[mopar4u]

Aftermarket parts have become a huge frustration point for me over the years. 50% of the time, they work all the time. Not many aftermarket brands i trust so if i go aftermarket i try and use a mfgr ive at least heard of and make sure where i buy from has a quick and easy return policy. OEM isnt always a guarantee either but usually better success, i try and check OEM first. An older car with high mileage makes the decision tough. At a minimum id replace in pairs. Personally i wouldnt be afraid the throw good money at it to get it fixed if the plan is to keep it around, i assume its paid for, so throwing decent money at it to keep it sound will be less than or equivalent to one car payment.

 

[Magna86]

if you are planning to keep this car until it dies and drive it everyday spend the money on a good set of complete struts and shocks(if thats what rear has too) do it all at same time. Usually the quick struts are cheaper to swap then disassembling everything to replace the mounts and struts. But you have to price it out between the two. Also have your repair shop quote it both ways. Generally the springs are fine and dont need replaced even with that mileage unless you notice sagging of the vehicle. I've replaced them in the past and thought because I needed too and noticed no difference. The key is buy once cry once. Nothing is worse then trying to save a penny replacing just enough only to need to spend dollars to redo the exact same work because another part of assembly goes bad. Stick to Monroe, (see if a higher priced set but spectrum work fine), kyb or just get OEM. Just dont buy cheapest ones you can find you will regret it.

 

[Sumboodie]

P

O'Rielly absorbed shucks. I dont know what that part number is for but they have what I want listed for $518.99. They advertize a 10% discount bringing it down to about $467. Still not even close to RA.

Part number is strut assemblies for a 2005 Kia Sedona minivan. I guessed on year, figured 12k miles a year makes it about an 05

Yes Oreilly, Schucks... same place, just used to calling it the old name.

Hell, I still call it Northern Hydraulics and they changed that probably 20 years ago.

 

[Sumboodie]

O'Rielly absorbed shucks. I dont know what that part number is for but they have what I want listed for $518.99. They advertize a 10% discount bringing it down to about $467. Still not even close to RA.

I looked up for a 2010. The MasterPro brand is listed at $218. That's probably ~$150-175 on an account. (It's 0200 here, can't call them)

Lifetime warranty too. Can't beat that.

 

[Jlbc212]

I've changed a lot of struts on my own vehicles and for family and friends. I even invested in the Branick 7600 strut spring compressor and mounted it on a wall in my garage. From my experience I've learned to only use OEM on certain items. Struts is one those items.

 

[ericm]

OEM except shocks. They're often but not always worse than quality aftermarket.

Assembling your own struts is not that difficult even with the inexpensive spring compressors that you can buy or rent or borrow from the parts store.

 

[racecougar]

Yes, "quick strut" assemblies are typically of lower quality and performance that the selection available separately.

If you're hearing a "pop" or "creak" when turning the wheel, especially with the vehicle stationary, I'd take a thorough look at your balljoints.