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How to Block wall?

Crazy Legs

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Joined
May 3, 2006
Messages
85
Location
Oskaloosa, Iowa
Ok, i've got my 8x8x16" cinder blocks and i'm needing some tips/tricks or advice when laying my 1 block high wall around the perimeter of my 24x30' slab.

1) How thick do i make the mortor between the floor & bottom of block & between blocks.

2) When i reach a point that a different length block is needed, do i break a block to make it fit? and whats the best way to do that without ending up shattering it and making gravel?

Thanks!!

any links you can think of ?
 
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PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
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4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
1) Mortar joints are 3/8" thick.

2) There is a trick to hitting a block with a masonry hammer to get it to break cleanly. If there are not too many you need cut and you want clean edges, use a masonry blade in a grinder or circular saw to cut the blocks.
 
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Crazy Legs

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May 3, 2006
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85
Location
Oskaloosa, Iowa
k thanks, i've only got 2 questions yet

1) How do i determine where my blocks will be for the door openings? I mean, do i place the block 1-1/2" back because of my 2x6 for the inside when i frame my door?

2) Whats the easiest/best way to set my corner blocks? (Stringline again, or can i just use my level/tape measure/edge of slab since my i stringlined/squared my slab, do i need to do everything again?

Thanks :)
 

PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
There is a "rough opening" dimension for a door opening. That is the space you should leave as an opening in the block.

You start with the corners. Set those and make sure that they are in place by diagonal and square as well as level. Then run stringlines from corner to corner to use to keep all the blocks in between level.
 

iiibdsiil

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Jan 29, 2005
Messages
658
Location
Tampa, FL
Go to your local Home Depot, there should be some gentlemen with a real thick Spanish accent out fron that will be able to knock this out for ya quick without breaking the bank, or your back.
 
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Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
1) How do i determine where my blocks will be for the door openings? I mean, do i place the block 1-1/2" back because of my 2x6 for the inside when i frame my door?

Wherever you are getting your door from....they will supply you with the rough opening size. Or if you aready have the door (Man door at least) it would be on the paper that is stapled to the jamb.

In setting your corners...the outside of the blocks will be the size of the garage. If it is a 24' garage then the blocks will set at 24'. You need to know how to square the garage though by going corner to corner. Once you have the 4 corners established square, snap a line on all 4 sides. Start laying up your corners. Make sure you go to your local block place and pick up the wood blocks that you put your line in so your courses stay straight. You will use these every other course or every course if you are not sure of yourself. Also make sure the wall stays plumb as you go up and make sure you keep the blocks level. Get a good 100' cloth tape measure and make sure your level is in good working order.

Kevin
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
He is only half kidding. One of my sons is a union mason. You break a lot of bricks into gravel before you get good. Getting some expert help and you providing some of the labor is not a bad idea.
The questions you are asking are real basic, and the bad part about a bad masonary job is that it lasts a long time.
Do you have the some of the smooth end faced blocks for the corners and door ways?
 

V-10 Killer

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Feb 11, 2007
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1,011
Location
Midland, MI
Since you're only going one block high, it probably won't be too bad.
I can give you a few tricks my uncle showed me when I started my foundation.
Square up first going corner to corner, and snapping a chalkline for your rows (outside edge obviously).
3-16" blocks = 4'. If you do your 24' row first, you won't have to intentionally break any blocks (although, you might have to trim the ends on your last 2 or 3 to get your final spacing right, or use a $2.79 masonary blade for a circular saw if you don't have a brick chisel).
Use a liberal amount of mud starting your first row. When you have the block in place, and level, you can clean up a little, but don't sacrifice strength.
Getting the block in place without the mud sliding off the ends of the block you're setting into place can be frustrating sometimes. I was told "Type M" Portland cement has some agent added to it to make the mud a little stickier, but I used pre-mixed Quikcrete mortar.
It might not hurt to use more mortar than necessary while learning, but it makes it harded to squeeze the blocks together to get your 3/8" gap right. Your most useful tools will be a trowel, torpedo level and hammer/mallet.
Get your corner blocks in place and let them dry for a day if time allows. Make sure they're square and level. Then just hook the line leads to them. Now you have a chalkline, a string line, and a level to tell you where the block goes.
Also, if you have a transit, use the last couple of rows (or in your case, row) to make sure your elevations are dead on for the walls. It's easier to squeeze a joint thinner than make it thicker.

All in all, you'll probably find the hardest thing is keeping the mud just wet enough. It always seems to go from too wet to too dry really fast for me.
I've done almost 500 blocks in the last month (2 hours here, 4 hours there), and I'm still learning.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Hire an experienced mason to lay the block, and be his helper. You get to see how its done, and get it done right in the process. I would think that your pride and joy garage would not be the place you wanted to learn how to lay block or brick. Pick some small, non structural project such as steps or a one or two block high wall in the yard. Let the mason show you how.

It will be money well spent.

Charles
 
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Crazy Legs

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May 3, 2006
Messages
85
Location
Oskaloosa, Iowa
sweet thanks alot guys, i do have the "finished end blocks" for the door ways etc.
i had a brainstorm hit me last night, once i get the blocks in place and spaced right, i'm going to spray paint in the holes onto the floor, then i'll remove the blocks so i know where to drill my hole for the vertical rebar etc.

Thanks for the tips/tricks
 
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